My 1985 Maytag A712 Extra Capacity Washer Rebuilt

[combo52]

Lubricating a DC Maytag

The top tub bearing should only have turbine oil used, lithium grease is too thick, the brake should have transmission oil in it only.

 

If you don't replace the transmission you are doing a lot of work for a washer that is only going to run a year or so at best till you have water leaking into the top spin bearing or into the transmission.

 

John L.

 

[scrubflex]

Forgot to mention, as per RCD, to add a tablespoon of MAYTAG Transmission oil to the brake assembly...quieter operation

Now it's time install the outer tub...once over again to make sure the opening is sanded smooth and clean

...I used WLG to grease the rubber area of the tub bearing seal...slides in easier
...completely flushed with the tub...place the outer tub into a position so you can attach the water level switch air dome
...then set the tub onto the transmission...next sand and wipe the outer tub bolt opening and install the 3 screw bolts/washer/plate, etc
...the SHORT one in the front and the LONGER 2 in the rear of the tub

VERY IMPORTANT: I used a hand socket wrench and a ratchet socket wrench...the hand socket wrench held the screw bolt in place (inside the tub) so the (rubber washer) DOES NOT MOVE as they're tightened...if so, it'll be damaged
...ratchet socket wrench tightens the washers/square plate, etc from the outside
...next I lightly added some ZOOM Spout Turbine Oil to tub bearing...which enhances the spinning cycles

 

[scrubflex]

We're almost there now, it's time to install the new mounting stem and boot seal kit
...I applied some white lithium grease on the bottom edge of the boot seal to help it slide on more easy...hold it along the sides of the seal and turn it from left to right (OSCILLATE) and push down gently until its seated flush with the bottom of tub
...DO NOT TOUCH the top area of the boot seal because if mishandled, you'll destroy the carbon ring inside of it...also, put a little WLG on the top edge of the boot seal and (rubber ring) area on the underside of the stem
...add the agitator drive shaft seal for "full proof seal" protection... you can use a little more grease if desired

 

[combo52]

Installing a MT Tub Mounting Stem And Water Seal

I would NOT put grease on the bottom OR top of the water seal, to install the seal to the tub use a little diluted liquid detergent and it will slide right into place.

 

No grease or other lubricants should be used on the carbon ring.

 

Putting a 2nd old style agitator seal under the new lip seal may push the lip seal out of place or the pressure from the bottom may quickly destroy its effectiveness, 

 

Good luck, John L.

 

[swestoyz]

Harry - I commend your efforts on rehabilitating your Maytag. Sometimes you just need to dive in to get the job done, and having several here on the forum helping along the way isn't a bad thing at all.

I'll echo John's warning about adding oil to the stem seal. The newer Teflon style stem seal kit (both the A4298 version through 1996 and triple lip center seal version post August 1996) is not meant to have any lubrication added to "seat" the seal, instead Maytag recommends that the washer be set to spin for about 3 minutes or so after assembly to break in the seal.

While access to the older style seals is limited these days Maytag went back and forth in the 80's on adding oil or not adding oil to the stem seal with a handful of design changes. When they did they recommended using the transmission oil (similar to a 60-70w gear oil) vs. center seal grease (similar to white lithium grease).

Ben

Screen shot below from the Jan 1992 Let's Talk Service)

 

[scrubflex]

Thanks John L. and Ben, I actually followed that bit of information from a Maytag washer Appliance Repair Guy video on YouTube. (Should I remove the grease???) And, John L. please let me know if you come across a possible replacement...I'm looking

 

[swestoyz]

Should I remove the grease???

Yes, at this point if you haven't fully assembled the machine I'd clean the grease off both the stem and boot seal with a few clean cloth towels.

Ben

 

[scrubflex]

Hey Ben, thanks again...oh the 712 has been operating going on two weeks or so...I think...I'm just sharing my journey...planning on post videos also

 

[redcarpetdrew]

When I replace the stem and boot on dc washers I usually install the old style centerpost seal as well. The only time I don’t is when there is the white clip on the top of the orbital trans. So far, I have not had any issues with it and the lip seal on the new stem is potentially iffy by itself. I’m definitely not trying to contradict you John by any means but this has worked for me on many, many repairs. I just don’t totally trust the new lip seal, esp if there is any slight defects to the trans shaft...

RCD

 

[redcarpetdrew]

The persistence award goes to you, my friend. You haven’t even touched on all the curveballs that washer threw at you or the number of times you almost threw in the towel. You now have skills that many in the field now have no clue of. Victory is yours. Well, that and clean laundry... lol...

RCD

 

[scrubflex]

next, I installed the new mounting stem...tighten it COUNTER-CLOCKWISE using the spanner nut wrench tool...not too tight

...when tighten the set screw make sure the head is sticking out at least 1/16" which will indicate it's resting against the transmission agitator drive shaft ridge surface and not inside the "groove" which can cause some damage...if so, loosen the stem and reset it

 

[scrubflex]

...to tighten the set screw you need to use Torx T20 screw drive, hand socket wrench with a T20 bit or 1/8" allen key wrench

place the washtub back into position...centering the tub takes a little time, you need to have patience...the best I accomplished was to set 1/4" of clearance space between the tubs in the front and back areas and at least a 1/2" at the sides...was much more lopsided before I'd taken her apart

...install the clamping tub nut washer then the spanner tub nut, tighten it counter-clockwise with the spanner nut wrench tool until it stops turning

 

[scrubflex]

Lghh, thanks RCD, the victory is ours because you helped me every step of the way...thank you for your persistence...I am capable because of you...I can't wait to be able to build my dream machine washer

 

[scrubflex]

...reinstalled the outer tub top cover...just determine how much clearance space you'll have between the underside of the top cabinet cover opening and outer tub cover (3/16" to 1/4")...adjust it manually to your perfection then tighten the clamps
...reattach the water level air dome...clean out thoroughly, lightly lube up inlet opening, reconnect the water injector tube and put the agitator back in place

 

[scrubflex]

my motor carriage had rusted pretty bad so I tried to clean it up a bit...used a product called LA's Totally AWESOME Rust, Lime & Calcium Cleaner and Brillo...(so much stronger than I knew)...it stripped away the golden brass color of the carriage...replaced and added (3) motor springs for that extra power boost
...set the motor back into position connecting all wires
...adjusting the transmission and pump belts TENSION

 

[scrubflex]

started her up...filling up nicely...spray fill works better...she's ALIVE!!!...look at her GO!!!

 

[scrubflex]

...here's a tub full of water...ahh, the powerful water surging of the Power-fin Agitator

 

[scrubflex]

Let's see how she does with the first test load...looks GREAT.

 

[scrubflex]

...how she handles the spinning cycle is the real test...aehh, needed more fine tuning...a little wobbly during the spins

...so I had adjust and tighten the centering springs...(which you need TONS of patience for) but, you will keep working at it until it's (your) perfect

...the outer tub top cover sunk in because I did not tighten the clamps enough

...IT IS DONE

Yayyy!!! my A712 is REBORN Again