My Amana RR-6W With blue display LED's

[wildstar1063]

Hi,

I have been reading these forums for several years, but I just joined recently, this is my first post.

I have been looking for an Amana RR-6W for years, as this was the model my grandmother bought new in 75, but have had no luck. Recently two of them came up on eVILBay, and I tried to buy one, and UPS destroyed it during shipment.

The gracious seller credited back the auction price plus shipping fees, so I bought the other one and requested FedEx Shipping and the Radarange came through in perfect condition.

I used it for about 2 days and the filter caps in the power supply let go, so I ordered new ones from Digikey. I also looked up the specs for the HP 5082-7730 LED Displays and ordered some blue ones that were similar and as the displays are socketed on this model changing the was a snap.

Thanks to the Radarange collection guy for the directions for the cap replacements. If you still have the link to his old site the directions are still available (But missing the Pic's) from the WayBack machine at the internet archive. I used them to change the caps in an RR-9TA and an RR-10 several years ago

What do you think?

Chuck E.

 

[panthera]

Way cool!

This looks great!

 

[wildstar1063]

The Display LED's I used are KingBright SA03-11PBWA/A from Mouser Electronics

Chuck E.

 

[spacedogb]

Can you give me the info on the Radarange guy? My RR-8T just went dead one day and has been sitting in the closet for a few months.

 

[wildstar1063]

I Believe he posts here under the name Cadman the URL for his Radarange web site is http://www.radar58.com/radarange/radar.html

 

[panthera]

Cadman

Helped me fix a pristine Amana Radarrange many years back - a safety fuse had blown and they intentionally made it difficult to fix (no shade tree mechanics on high-voltage equipment was their thinking).

If you can't find him, there are youtube videos and texts on the subject, and I can link you to one good site. Still, his explanations are much clearer and easier to follow than anything else on the matter.

Oh - and, yes - those dratted microswitches and their timing is the root of ALL evil in these ranges. All.

 

[wildstar1063]

Here is the link to Cadman's instructions for changing the Cap's in the RR-6w and RR-9T (some TA)/10A.
The pictures are missing from the page, but the directions are good.

These seem to be missing from his new page, but the web archive usually has copies of most pages, if you know how to look for them

http://web.archive.org/web/20080312090807/http://www.eldocountry.com:80/radarange/repair.html

Chuck E.

 

[wildstar1063]

Spacedogb,

The RR-8T might be a bit of a different animal compared to some of the other RR's
According to Cadman's web site the displays are not LED's, but Vacuum florescent Displays
(VFD's") and the buttons are not the glass touch panel, but dome push buttons. Taking it
apart may be a lot different from the 6w and the 9s and 10s. As with most of the RR's though,
the issue is probably filter caps or a fuse.

As always be mindful of the high voltage components inside a microwave, they can kill ya.
unplug it and wait an hour or 2 to give the bleeder resistor time to discharge that big high voltage
cap. and even then don't assume it is discharged.

Chuck E.[this post was last edited: 6/3/2017-15:42]

 

[panthera]

chuck is so right

Never assume a resistor has discharged a capacitor. I always hook up a known good bleeder resistor and then after waiting a 20 minutes, I short the capacitor terminals.

 

[cornutt]

I like to discharge caps by putting an old analog voltmeter on then. That way, I can watch it discharge. Very large caps may take a minute or two.