This is impressive!
Nice work!
Dave
Nice work!
Dave
My Early Maytag A806 Rework Progress
- Thread starter d-jones
- Start date
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Can anyone tell me if this cracking is unusual or rare?
Over the past week, I worked on 4 Maytag transmissions. I cracked them open, drained the oil, disassembled the interior parts and cleaned them, replaced the lower shaft o-rings, and reassembled after filling with new gear oil. I also filled the slightly pitted agitator shafts with JB Weld, sanded them and coated them with marine epoxy paint (from KBS Coatings.)
I inspected the nylon gears closely but did not see any cracking on any of them. These transmissions came from a variety of 06 through 12 series machines.
Over the past week, I worked on 4 Maytag transmissions. I cracked them open, drained the oil, disassembled the interior parts and cleaned them, replaced the lower shaft o-rings, and reassembled after filling with new gear oil. I also filled the slightly pitted agitator shafts with JB Weld, sanded them and coated them with marine epoxy paint (from KBS Coatings.)
I inspected the nylon gears closely but did not see any cracking on any of them. These transmissions came from a variety of 06 through 12 series machines.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
after filling with new gear oil
What gear oil are you using?
What gear oil are you using?
A bit more to add.
First, thanks for the compliments and the encouragement. It's been slow going lately due to things that are quite stuck and uncooperative. I want to do this right, and after breaking my agitator I figured I'd better slow down some and be a bit more cautious. Your comments and advice have been very helpful. With that in mind I have a few more pictures for you.
Photo 1. This is how the damper and tub supports looked once removed. I initially thought the damper wash shot, but thanks to advice from Joseph (Hobbyapocalypes) I decided to try cleaning it up.
Photo 2. The damper and other parts after bead blasting to remove corrosion.
photo 3. The inner surface of the damper was then polished up using a small high speed buffing wheel and compound. It came out much better than I thought it would and will be reinstalled.
I'm still wrestling with the drive gear on the agitator shaft. I have a new shaft that I'd like to use on this machine, or at the very least send the old one out for plating, but so far I've been unable to get the groove pin out that holds the drive gear in place and I'm afraid of breaking something. I've been thinking of drilling into the end of the pin to hollow it out a bit, but that could risk damaging the other parts if I'm off by even a small amount. Any thoughts?
First, thanks for the compliments and the encouragement. It's been slow going lately due to things that are quite stuck and uncooperative. I want to do this right, and after breaking my agitator I figured I'd better slow down some and be a bit more cautious. Your comments and advice have been very helpful. With that in mind I have a few more pictures for you.
Photo 1. This is how the damper and tub supports looked once removed. I initially thought the damper wash shot, but thanks to advice from Joseph (Hobbyapocalypes) I decided to try cleaning it up.
Photo 2. The damper and other parts after bead blasting to remove corrosion.
photo 3. The inner surface of the damper was then polished up using a small high speed buffing wheel and compound. It came out much better than I thought it would and will be reinstalled.
I'm still wrestling with the drive gear on the agitator shaft. I have a new shaft that I'd like to use on this machine, or at the very least send the old one out for plating, but so far I've been unable to get the groove pin out that holds the drive gear in place and I'm afraid of breaking something. I've been thinking of drilling into the end of the pin to hollow it out a bit, but that could risk damaging the other parts if I'm off by even a small amount. Any thoughts?
good-shepherd
Well-known member
Any thoughts?
Have the pin pressed out by a machine shop or if you want to DIY I'd apply some heat with a torch first.
Probably thats how the pin was installed at the factory.
Have the pin pressed out by a machine shop or if you want to DIY I'd apply some heat with a torch first.
Probably thats how the pin was installed at the factory.
neptunebob
Well-known member
Should I try to save a Maytag>
My sister the dentist has a DC Maytag that I talked her into buying 30 years ago. The best washer she had, but her Maytag repairman has retired. Now it is making a roaring noise on spin. Her laundry room is up a hill and steps and hard to get to, but I could get it out of there if the washer could be restored. Should I try to save it? Kind of have to make a decision, as she has to do laundry and I would have to tell if it should not be taken away. Thanks, Bob.
My sister the dentist has a DC Maytag that I talked her into buying 30 years ago. The best washer she had, but her Maytag repairman has retired. Now it is making a roaring noise on spin. Her laundry room is up a hill and steps and hard to get to, but I could get it out of there if the washer could be restored. Should I try to save it? Kind of have to make a decision, as she has to do laundry and I would have to tell if it should not be taken away. Thanks, Bob.
steveo
Member
David, great work so far!! Thank you for sharing with us! Awaiting the finished product...I know it'll be fantastic!
Long overdue update
I tried repeatedly to get the groove pin out of the steel pinion gear and failed, so a machine shop finally removed it for me. That was last week. Today I picked up a new agitator shaft and steel pinion gear, and just placed an order for four groove pins from an outfit that had them in stock. I saw a post by qsd-dan in another thread regarding potential problems for new agitator shafts in old bearings, so there may be an issue there. We'll see. The same shop that had the agitator shaft today also had a new old stock Mallory timer for this machine, which based on the physical evidence was the original timer it had, so that was a huge pleasant surprise. Anyways, it's not much but it is progress. More soon, I hope.
I tried repeatedly to get the groove pin out of the steel pinion gear and failed, so a machine shop finally removed it for me. That was last week. Today I picked up a new agitator shaft and steel pinion gear, and just placed an order for four groove pins from an outfit that had them in stock. I saw a post by qsd-dan in another thread regarding potential problems for new agitator shafts in old bearings, so there may be an issue there. We'll see. The same shop that had the agitator shaft today also had a new old stock Mallory timer for this machine, which based on the physical evidence was the original timer it had, so that was a huge pleasant surprise. Anyways, it's not much but it is progress. More soon, I hope.
Whoops, wrong thread. Sorry about that Doug.
Glad to hear you're working on the machine again and found an agitator shaft. That groove pin is a huge bear to remove, especially on the pre 1975 machines. Were you able to locate a new groove pin?
Glad to hear you're working on the machine again and found an agitator shaft. That groove pin is a huge bear to remove, especially on the pre 1975 machines. Were you able to locate a new groove pin?
Dan
Very interesting that it’s the older style lint filter screen with the later style plastic top instead of stainless. How is that even possible? As for the groove pin, I found a company that said they had ten in stock. I ordered four. I’ll let you know when they show up. I spoke to the machinist today and took the new pinion gear and shaft to him. Because of your warning that I read elsewhere on the blog I had him check the fit of the new shaft against the old bearings. He feels the top bearing gives the shaft a little too much play, so he’s going to machine a new one and install it.[this post was last edited: 9/1/2022-13:59]
Very interesting that it’s the older style lint filter screen with the later style plastic top instead of stainless. How is that even possible? As for the groove pin, I found a company that said they had ten in stock. I ordered four. I’ll let you know when they show up. I spoke to the machinist today and took the new pinion gear and shaft to him. Because of your warning that I read elsewhere on the blog I had him check the fit of the new shaft against the old bearings. He feels the top bearing gives the shaft a little too much play, so he’s going to machine a new one and install it.[this post was last edited: 9/1/2022-13:59]
I never saw one of these older filters without the chrome ring. I'm guessing the glue came off at some point or it was purposely removed.
Glad you found some of those grove pins, they're so difficult to find now. I came across some while cleaning and organizing a few weeks back, that's why I asked. Were you able to find a new pinion gear?
Glad you found some of those grove pins, they're so difficult to find now. I came across some while cleaning and organizing a few weeks back, that's why I asked. Were you able to find a new pinion gear?
New Pinion Gear
I found several of them. Fortunately I only need one......for now. The new gear is a little different from the one that came off in that it's cut like a gear from end to end having no smaller diameter smooth portion where the groove pin goes. Probably just a simplification to reduce cost. Another thing I have a question about is the o-ring seal (part number 210690). Per the parts manual and the service manual that o-ring sits beneath the shoulder on the agitator shaft and rests between a chamfer on the center plate bushing and the collar on the shaft. I see no evidence of a chamfer on the center plate bushing and no o-ring was present when disassembled. If the o-ring broke and went away would that steel shoulder on the agitator shaft be able to wear through the chamfer on that bushing? [this post was last edited: 9/1/2022-16:11]
I found several of them. Fortunately I only need one......for now. The new gear is a little different from the one that came off in that it's cut like a gear from end to end having no smaller diameter smooth portion where the groove pin goes. Probably just a simplification to reduce cost. Another thing I have a question about is the o-ring seal (part number 210690). Per the parts manual and the service manual that o-ring sits beneath the shoulder on the agitator shaft and rests between a chamfer on the center plate bushing and the collar on the shaft. I see no evidence of a chamfer on the center plate bushing and no o-ring was present when disassembled. If the o-ring broke and went away would that steel shoulder on the agitator shaft be able to wear through the chamfer on that bushing? [this post was last edited: 9/1/2022-16:11]
Early 06 MT Lint Filters
All had the light colored plastic filter area, only the 906 & 806 filters had the SS top section.
John L.
All had the light colored plastic filter area, only the 906 & 806 filters had the SS top section.
John L.
Well that explains it. Thanks John. It never occurred to me that it was used on a lower model.
Does no one have an answer to the question in reply 92?
In addition to the chamfer question, how is the o-ring kept lubed? Its part number is still called out in the A806 parts manual, so I feel like it should be there. But as I said, it was missing from mine and the top bushing doesn't match the service manual description.
In addition to the chamfer question, how is the o-ring kept lubed? Its part number is still called out in the A806 parts manual, so I feel like it should be there. But as I said, it was missing from mine and the top bushing doesn't match the service manual description.
That's odd
It's clearly described in my manual for the earlier models, like the A700 and A702. It's also listed in the A806 parts manual for series 00. Isn't series 00 the earliest variant?
It's clearly described in my manual for the earlier models, like the A700 and A702. It's also listed in the A806 parts manual for series 00. Isn't series 00 the earliest variant?
>> I tried repeatedly to get the groove pin out of the steel pinion gear and
>> failed, so a machine shop finally removed it for me.
They are just as difficult to get back in as well.
When we rebuilt the transmission for our A308, we had two "groov pins" on hand - and at that time, no others were available anywhere. The first pin actually mushroomed from the force when attempting to hammer it in, making it unusable. For the second one, we chucked it in a drill press and filed the diameter down before installation, and it was still a bear to install.
>> failed, so a machine shop finally removed it for me.
They are just as difficult to get back in as well.
When we rebuilt the transmission for our A308, we had two "groov pins" on hand - and at that time, no others were available anywhere. The first pin actually mushroomed from the force when attempting to hammer it in, making it unusable. For the second one, we chucked it in a drill press and filed the diameter down before installation, and it was still a bear to install.
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