I have never made a major appliance repair before-but now I've got a GE WWA7600SBLWW standard capacity washer that my cousin is saving for me-the outer tub has a rust hole in the bottom of it, front leveling leg is bent, two-speed clutch rattles badly on Gentle speed, transmission spin brake sounds worn-out, it needs hoses, as well as some other parts-I've found two appliance parts websites that carry the outer drum for the old-style GE/Hotpoint washers as well as other parts for it that it needs-well, please wish me luck, I am anxious to bring it home, and do a major repair on my first appliance!
my first major appliance repair!
- Thread starter tbolt25
- Start date
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GE Filter Flo.
A few tips:
The clutch rattling is likely caused by a failed clutch bearing. At one point, the pump may have leaked. It may still be leaking, and this leaks down onto the clutch, wetting the bearing. Just replace the clutch. It is possible to rebuild the old one, but it's likely cheaper to just replace it with a new 2-speed clutch. The hardest part is removing the roll pin that secures the clutch to the motor. Also, you need to replace a relay when you replace the clutch. I don't know which relay and I don't know why, but you have to replace it or else your motor will burn out!
Also, replace the clamps that secure the big rubber boot at the bottom of the outer tub. You can get original style clamps from an appliance parts supplier, but a cheaper and more secure alternative is new automotive-style hose clamps (big ones, REALLY big ones). Just get ones that won't rust because they are under water when the machine is in use.
Good luck,
Dave
A few tips:
The clutch rattling is likely caused by a failed clutch bearing. At one point, the pump may have leaked. It may still be leaking, and this leaks down onto the clutch, wetting the bearing. Just replace the clutch. It is possible to rebuild the old one, but it's likely cheaper to just replace it with a new 2-speed clutch. The hardest part is removing the roll pin that secures the clutch to the motor. Also, you need to replace a relay when you replace the clutch. I don't know which relay and I don't know why, but you have to replace it or else your motor will burn out!
Also, replace the clamps that secure the big rubber boot at the bottom of the outer tub. You can get original style clamps from an appliance parts supplier, but a cheaper and more secure alternative is new automotive-style hose clamps (big ones, REALLY big ones). Just get ones that won't rust because they are under water when the machine is in use.
Good luck,
Dave
filter ring GE
This is not a Filter Flo GE with the filter pan, it's a Filter Ring Flo GE-self cleaning filter ring-and the only relay I know of to replace is the motor start relay on the top left corner on the back of the washer.
This is not a Filter Flo GE with the filter pan, it's a Filter Ring Flo GE-self cleaning filter ring-and the only relay I know of to replace is the motor start relay on the top left corner on the back of the washer.
mrb627
Well-known member
Relay
There is a relay on the motor mount which controls the Normal/Gentle speed clutch. It is more than likely dead if the machine has been leaking or if it has suffered some improper usage.
Malcolm
There is a relay on the motor mount which controls the Normal/Gentle speed clutch. It is more than likely dead if the machine has been leaking or if it has suffered some improper usage.
Malcolm
Philip -
I may be wrong on this and perhaps shouldn't even reply, but what happened in earlier Whirlpool/Kenmore machines may apply to the 1/3 and 1/2 HP GEs also.
In the earlier 1960s, Kenmore washers were advertised as having 1/3 HP motors. These were the round motors that could be taken apart for servicing to some degree. At some point later on, 1/2 HP motors went into production across the board. Eventually the motors were redesigned to the permanently sealed, unserviceable square units we see today. This started with the 1 and 2-speed motors in the late 60s or very early 70s. The three speed motor was never re-designed that I know of but was discontinued instead by 1974.
A version of the square frame motor is available as a replacement and still offered by Whirlpool, and it fits basically every belt-drive ever made, 1/3 OR 1/2 HP, round OR square originally.
I would rather have a round motor in a machine originally built with one, but that's beside the point a bit here. I would surmize that the GE horsepower switch was done in much the same fashion, and could even have been encouraged by GE at Whirlpool, since some of Whirlpool's motors were GE built. In fact, many MANY early 1970s WP machines had GE motors in them.
Some of this is on-point and some isn't, but I think the horsepower switch was an evolutionary change that happened to much of the industry, not just GE. You would probably be fine to install a 1/2 HP motor in an original 1/3 application.
Gordon
I may be wrong on this and perhaps shouldn't even reply, but what happened in earlier Whirlpool/Kenmore machines may apply to the 1/3 and 1/2 HP GEs also.
In the earlier 1960s, Kenmore washers were advertised as having 1/3 HP motors. These were the round motors that could be taken apart for servicing to some degree. At some point later on, 1/2 HP motors went into production across the board. Eventually the motors were redesigned to the permanently sealed, unserviceable square units we see today. This started with the 1 and 2-speed motors in the late 60s or very early 70s. The three speed motor was never re-designed that I know of but was discontinued instead by 1974.
A version of the square frame motor is available as a replacement and still offered by Whirlpool, and it fits basically every belt-drive ever made, 1/3 OR 1/2 HP, round OR square originally.
I would rather have a round motor in a machine originally built with one, but that's beside the point a bit here. I would surmize that the GE horsepower switch was done in much the same fashion, and could even have been encouraged by GE at Whirlpool, since some of Whirlpool's motors were GE built. In fact, many MANY early 1970s WP machines had GE motors in them.
Some of this is on-point and some isn't, but I think the horsepower switch was an evolutionary change that happened to much of the industry, not just GE. You would probably be fine to install a 1/2 HP motor in an original 1/3 application.
Gordon
