My first vintage set.

[strongenough78]

Well sort of but I do think they're from the 80's. I love the set I paid a fair price for them and they are in great condition. My only concern is the dryer. It takes quite a while to dry a normal sized load. Usually over 60 minutes. I've cleaned out the lint not that there was much. The heating element is working and there seems to be sufficient air flow from what I can tell. I've cleaned all of the sensors too. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

[strongenough78]

[No message]

 

[askolover]

What about the felt seals around the drum, if it has them?  I had a WP once with worn out felts and it would pull in unheated air causing it to take longer to dry.  On the other hand, my gas GE takes right at 60 minutes to dry an all cotton load of towels, socks, shorts, etc even after being spun in the Asko and with brand new rigid ducting, but it's always been that way.  Sheets take only 30mins or less.  Just a thought!

 

 

[washdaddy]

You mentioned you checked the dryer for lint. Did you take the panel off the machine and take the cover off the blower to make sure there isn't anything blocking it's flow or missing any of the fins from it. You may also want to clean the sensors inside the dryer well. If the previous owner used dryer sheets there may be a residue buildup on them which might effect their performance.

Also don't forget, using fabric softener lengthens drying time.

 

 

 

[delaneymeegan]

I'll go with the temperature sensor(s) being out of it perameters.

One way to test is to manually sense the temperature when drying a load. Put a standard load of freshly laundered sheets in the dryer at medium to med-high temperature. After about 10-15 minutes, open the door and quickly put your hand into the middle of the batch of laundry. It should be relatively HOT and moist, as should the air inside the dryer.
If it's not, you'll know the thermostat is cutting out too soon, and not allowing the heater to developing enough heat.

These sensors are relatively cheap, and easy to change out.

Best of luck with this. You have a good quality set there, and you should continue to get many more years of service from them.

 

[appnut]

This dryer doesn't have sensors in the drum as it's not electronic control drying.  It uses the exhaust temperature sensing method.  I think this is from around 1988 or 1989.  My fall 1986 first-gen Lady Shredmore had Heavy, Medium, and Light soil designators rather than the above ex heavy, heavy and normal.  Like the above where Normal is a different font color, mine on the medium was a different font color, but did not have the rectangular outline around the word--different font color indicating preferred setting choice. 

 

[strongenough78]

I did pull the cover off the blower and surprisingly there was no build up. I'll probably order new sensors but I also want to check the vent out of the house. This dryer in fact does have the sensors inside the drum. What would you recommend to clean them with. Also, the vent hose slightly swells when its running and it gets pretty warm after a while. The hose is brand new.

 

[delaneymeegan]

Yes, check the entire route of the duct. I once bought a house that had a 30' duct, which is too long. At the back of the house, the previous owners had built a deck and the vent hood was in the way and they basically put wood over the majority of the hole. The duct it turned out was totally clogged with lint and of course the dryer left with the house wasn't able to dry clothes.

I re routed the vent so it was only 6' long. I washed out the ducting pieces I re-used to it was all clean and worked fine after that.

If you don't have build up in the lines coming off the dryer, this is probably not your issue. You shouldn't have build-up directly in the fan compartment otherwise the fan wouldn't be able to turn at all.

 

[strongenough78]

Im gonna check the vent tomorrow. The only thing is, I cant find anywhere on the sides of the house it would vent out of. Im thinking it might vent through the roof.

 

[delaneymeegan]

It could be going through the roof, it could also be going into the attic, or through a soffit.

You should try doing the test suggested above, but take a piece of clean ducting and attach it to the dryer and route it temporarily out a window or door. If the dryer works properly that way, you'll know the problem is in the ducting.

Some of these pics may apply.

 

[strongenough78]

Those pics help a lot. Thank you! I'll see what I can find.

 

[strongenough78]

What I was wondering too, is should the exhaust hose swell up slightly when air is flowing through it? It feels like the dryer itself is putting out a good amount of air, I checked that before I picked it up. And the hose isnt kinked anywhere.

 

[wayupnorth]

My dryer is next to a window in my bathroom. I have flex metal hose and a vent outlet into a lever for inside or outside to a regular outside vent. I have 2 pieces of Styrofoam that fit in the window perfectly, so when I am drying, moisture goes outside and cold stays there, it is a PITA to do everytime you dry. But if I want a warm towel,robe and nice warm bathroom I have it in minutes directing the heat into the room for a couple minutes. Venting outside like here where its normally frigid lets so much of that cold air right into the dryer and into the house, as no vent seals perfect I have found.

 

[strongenough78]

Yeah the laundry closet is nowhere near a window. What would you guys recommend to clean the sensors with?

 

[ken]

Glad to see the advice about also checking the sensors as I just got the 1980 Whirlpool dryer last week. The guy I got it from said it takes a little longer to dry a load than it used to. I haven't opened it up yet to check it for lint.

 

[mrb627]

Failing Moisture Sensor

Is highly unlikely to cause long drying times. If the airflow is adequate, your problem is likely in the heating circuit. I would run the dryer on timed dry hi heat and check the temperature of the exhaust air.

Malcolm

 

[LaVidaBoem]

Strong>>Your own Clue...

Hey Man,

 

A Kenmore/Whirlpool moves some air.

 

The Shorter the duct work, the better; if it's going to be over six feet, it should increase in diameter, to allow good venting.

Too long a duct, without increasing the diameter tends to make the air flow try to speed up too much...(like in HVAC ducting).

 

Now, although you checked, just for reference, A whirlpool will run with a plenum full of dust inside the blower wheel...makes the same noise, turns just as fast, or faster, but moves NO air to speak of...

 

One of the most important things customers overlook on the pull-out top mount filter...they load the dryer, hit start...and remember,

Shit! I need to clean the lint...

 

When you pull out a Whirlpool running, you open yourself to the chance of rolling the lint right off the screen down into the plenum...I have several a month come in this way.

 

Now, you are your own detective...no hose should blow up, or expand like you mention...way too much back pressure...

 

Just slide the old girl out a foot or two, drop the vent @ the dryer...screw the window deal...and run a load of wet towels...

A Whirlpool on high will dry those in a little over 20 minutes with an unobstructed duct. Period.

 

I highly doubt any sensor is bad...but use the timed cycle on high...

A Whirlpool can run with the element on for up to 8 minutes before it cuts off for the first time.

You can probably find an angle to view and see the heat glow without even removing the back...just turn out the lights Man!

 

Good luck, report back.

 

LaVidaBoem

 

Post Script: If you are worried about a little lint for this test...use one leg of a pair of panty hose...Slip on duct @ dryer.

Excellent Temp Filter...

 

[ken]

Can the heating element lose its effectiveness over time and not produce full heat like when new? Or is it a case of it works or doesn't work?

 

[LaVidaBoem]

It either works, or it Don't

Yes Ken,...its just that simple on the element.

 

Eddy