My 'Lady' has betrayed me!!

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James,  I remember seeing the sanding down of the tee-bearing on another restoration (by John when I got my '56 Whirlpool Imperial) but in that case, we had swapped transmissions and I think we just replaced the spin tube.  With the Lady K, I got the complete basket drive assembly, so I wasn't sure that I'd need to do this.

 

Alan, I had been reviewing the Whirlpool/Kenmore service literature I have and I wondered if the basket clutch shaft needed some adjustment - I am just not sure how I'm going to get a ruler in there to measure the clearance.... LOL 

 

So after groceries, I'll take another look-see.   

 

Thanks for the suggestions!!!

 

 

 

 
 
Great suggestions on checking the T bearing, as well as the clutch to pulley clearance. The sounds from the video suggest that the clutch continues to slip just enough to not fully grab on the spin pulley.

Another thought I had was to check which spin cam bar you have installed. When Whirlpool went to the smaller clutch around 1970 for the quick brake, the springs were stiffened as well, causing issues for the earlier non-hardened cam bars. The instruction sheet I have for a few NOS replacement basket drives come with a replacement hardened cam bar in case the basket drive is used on a pre-1970 machine.

Ben
 
D'OH!

Ben, I think you've hit the nail on the head.... The basket drive 'kit' included a new cam bar, but me, being me, thought, "Well mine ain't broke..."  It probably won't hurt to swap it.    I didn't have an instruction sheet with my basket drive kit - darn it.  

 

So guess who's pulling the Lady's gearcase out (again) this afternoon?   LOL 
 
If you are taking the gearcase out anyway, check the t-bearing just in case. The bearing sits inside the spintube so even if you are replacing the whole basket drive, you still have a new spin tube.

Good Luck Paul! Hope the 2nd time is the charm :)
 
Thanks James! Since everything is out again I'll check it again.

 

I am pretty much convinced the new spin cam bar is going to do it... note the 'bump' in the middle of the new bar. I feel confident that this will raise the yoke assembly sufficiently to 'grab' the new style basket drive.   I just hope I can securely attach the new rivet to the spin plunger!

 

So, one really does learn something new every day.  Lessons learned here: when a part comes with 'accesories', install them and when in doubt -ask questions!

 

Now, who's still betting on the Blackstone  (and there is a 1-18 wild card...)?

turquoisedude-2017100513045205782_1.jpg
 
1965 LKM Washer Spin Problems

Hi Paul, the bump in the middle only helps the cam bar stay in either the spin or neutral position, it does not contact the clutch control shaft.

 

It is not the tee bearing that needs sanding etc, do be sure the TB is properly supported on the agitator shaft, there are three different styles of TBs I don't know which yours has.

 

Did you try inserting the new spin Tube in the bearings once you got the bearings installed in the center-post?, it should insert easily and turn easily as well as move in and out.

 

If you like call me before you reassemble the machine so you don't have to do it a third time.

 

John L.
 
John,  I'll be calling you this weekend for sure!  

 

The good news - the spin tube did turn freely in the new bearings and pops out easily (3 times now.... LOL)

 

My dilemma now is that I cut off the spin cam plunger rivet to be able to change the cam bar (and full disclosure - I swear that the clutch yoke assembly moves higher with the new spin cam bar) - there was a new rivet included with the cam bar, but I'm up the creek as to how to attach the new rivet.

 

I'll load the Blackstone into the station wagon, nonetheless.... LOL 

 
 
Not a rivet

It's just a tension clip/fastener you push onto the replacement cotter pin.  A small nut driver can be used to push it onto the pin.  It's pretty tight going on so it will hold and not vibrate off.    
 
Yes,  John said there should have been one with the new rivet, however I must have lost it when I opened the package with that in.  

 

Thinking somehow I can substitute a screw or bolt.... 

 
 
poor spin

From what I have seen I would say that is mis-aligned.Remove the braces,back the transmission bolts out 9 turns,stand the machine up and tighten them each 3 turns at a time.The machine must be standing up.If you reinstalled the transmission the first time with the machine on its face you will have alignment problems.After the bolts are tight try the spin then.The drive pad clearance must be one sixteenth of an inch(whats our clearance Clarence?)The boltdown westy you posted that I bought came yesterday and wow is it beautiful.Thanks so mush again.
 
An update....

Or "the further suffering of the Lady"...

 

The good news - found a 'speed nut' that worked with the new cam bar rivet.  If anyone runs into this issue, it is a 1/8-inch diameter.

turquoisedude-2017101214043804665_1.jpg
 
But would it spin....

Short answer.... not quite.

 

Upon reinstallation of the tub, and after the new cam bar rivet was secured, I did get the washer to spin.  However, it was noisy as hell and the belt looked like it was getting chewed up.  Not good.  

 

I found the tub was binding when I tried to turn it by hand.  Well, as Mark described above, I tried loosening the gearcase mounts to re-align the spin tube and agitator shaft (standard Whirlpool procedure).  I also slackened the belt slightly.  This resulted in no spin.  

 

After I convinced Canyon I was not speaking in tongues,  I tried further loosening of the gearcase mounting bolts, as suggested in the Whirlpool doctrine.  Well, I got the basket turning a little easier.  Spin was slllloooooowwww however.  

 

The last thing I tried this afternoon was to adjust the nut on the basket clutch shaft.  The machine seemed to be running a lot quieter but the tub started to spin, then spun out....  

 

One thing I did notice was that when I did the initial noisy spin test, when I shut the machine off the tub came to a screeching halt, which it never, ever did before.  

 

I am guessing there is some further adjustment needed here - my gut feeling is saying basket clutch shaft nut but if there is something I am overlooking, please do let me know.   I am at the point where A: I'd like the guest bedroom back, B: I'd like the Kenmore working again, and C: I really, really need some kind of a functioning washer in St-Lib.    

 

Rant over.... carry on... 
 
I don't think so, but ya never know....  I haven't observed any trouble with the motor during agitation (like overheating or shorting).  The wig-wag has tested fine and I have seen the cam plungers for spin and agitation pull up.   

 

I have to get back to Ogden tomorrow, but when I get back, I think I'd better dive into that 1-18 in the garage!!

 
 
no spin

I still think you have an alignment problem.I am assuming you have the braces off.I would pull the transmission,double check you have nothing binding.The basket shaft should move freely in and out of the centerpost.check the t bearing that it fits smoothly into the bottom of the basket shaft.Re install the transmission and tighten the bolts only finger tight then stand the machine up and tighten the bolts 3 turns at a time until tight.The clutch pad clearance must be way off to affect spin performance but double check anyway.Make sure the upper centerpost seal is completely seated otherwise the basket collar will drag on it.Try spin again.
 
Slow Spinning 65 LKM Washer

Hi Paul,  Mark may have identified the poor spin problem, in your post #54 the top spin tube seal is too high and may be binding on the basket drive block.

 

I may be coming in that direction in the next few weeks, We may have to fix this washer when I get there.

 

John L.
 
Hey Paul, I used the old spin tube seal to seat the two new spin tube seals I had to install on my machine. From post 53 it looks like your machine uses a single upper seal, and I think this upper seal is supposed to seat with its upper most lip being about 1-2mm above the centre post.
 
I concur

That something somewhere is not sitting correctly - it makes sense that the bearing is a likely cause of the spin issues.

 

However, I really want a working washer in the house in St-Lib (where I don't have the choice of 9 mostly-working vintage washers like I do in Ogden!) so I think the Lady is going into 'dry dock' for a spell.   

 

John, if you do come visit, please let me know - I'd welcome your assistance at this point.  I think I may be getting too old and weak for this washer restoration stuff alone!! 

 

And full disclosure, why I need a working washer so badly in St-Lib:  as of November, I'm entering into a foray into the world of antiques, vintage and collectible items - as a potential store co-owner!   But more on that later.

In the meantime, I've got to take a run at a WC8 Frigidaire washer sitting in the garage in St-Lib next week.   

 

 

[this post was last edited: 10/13/2017-07:57]
 
poor spin

One surefire way to know if you have an alignment problem is try turning the agitator shaft with the agitator installed.There should be no drag at all it should turn freely you should be able to spin it with your hands.If it feels stiff or does not spin along with the basket during spin then you know for sure you have an alignment problem.
 
No, I decided to take a break back in October - we were about to leave on vacation and a certain Hubby was voicing concerns about the two non-working vintage washers in the St-Lib house so I moved the '66 Blackstone in to fill in for the Lady K.  (Full disclosure, a 1978 Frigidaire Crown 1-18 is the other vintage washer giving me grief at this house)

 

I am going to get my sorry behind in gear on this after the Christmas season, though.  I've gotten a lot of great advice as to what could be wrong and I am confident I'll get my turquoise Lady back into service again!  If not, John Lefever will be getting a plane ticket in the New Year.... LOL    
 
And we're back....

It's a New Year and most resolutions still apply at this point in January, so I thought I should take another peek at my stubborn Lady K.   The washer got more or less reassembled and shifted down to the basement back in October just before we left for a vacation in India.  November was not a good one for Chris (his mother passed away) and I was actually helping run an antique store for a friend.  Then came the holidaze...  So 'The Naughty Lady of St-Liboire' just sat in the basement until today.  

 

So on to today's findings....  When I tested the reassembled machine, I eventually got it to spin but as with previous tests, the spin was sluggish.  So I thought I'd see what happened when the washer tub was out of the machine.  This time, the spin tube began to turn immediately and it looks like it was running pretty fast.... 

 



 

So now I can't help but wonder if the drag I am seeing with the tub back in the machine could be due to a bad basket drive block...  That's my first thought.  I also wonder if there could be an issue with a misaligned centre post.  I say that because this washer has seemed prone to getting out of balance since I redid the bearings the first time around and it did so a couple of times last summer before the darn thing stopped spinning.    Am I off base here?   

 

John L, I've got guest rooms ready in both houses...  
 
Update of sorts....

Just for the thrills of it, I put the tub back in the washer this afternoon.  The tub will start to spin right away now, but it's still slllllloooooooooowwwwww.   I will attempt to remove/reseat the gearcase tomorrow to see what that does. 

 
 
Never give up...

Will probably be on my headstone...

 

So I figured I had nothing to lose by removing the gearcase from the Lady. The binding issue was still eating at me; examining the new basket drive and brake I was troubled by this new, thicker-looking brake pad.

turquoisedude-2018013113340901779_1.jpg
 
Now, one of the many suggestions which had been made was to adjust the height of the basket clutch shaft.  It took a few tries...

turquoisedude-2018013113392107257_1.jpg
 
Nothing to lose so....

Holy crow.... It seems to be spinning more or less normally!! 

 



 

I did 3 successive agitate and spin tests and all went well.  The belt did not get chewed up (any more at least...) and stayed at a normal temperature.   I think we're good to go here...  

 

Now, I do still have a couple of things to do before any serious testing.  I have to reinstall the three gearcase brackets and I have to make darned sure the pump hoses and drain sump trap have been firmly reattached.  I figure I will do a bucket test of the machine before I go nuts and haul the Lady back up to the bathroom alcove.  Of course I will have to haul the '66 Blackstone back down to the basement.  Sigh... I need more washer and dryer hookups in St-Lib.   But we won't tell Hubby.... 

 

So, I think I may be ready to swap drain pumps on the 56 Norge Timeline - and a brand new pump should be waiting for me in Vermont this weekend.  Stay tuned - turquoisedude may just have his groove back!
 

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