My 'Lady' has betrayed me!!

[bigalsf]

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Hi Paul,  just a thought, have you checked the clearance of the clutch lining and the pulley?  When the machine is not in spin the clearance should be 1/16'' .  If the clearance is too high the yoke will not drop down far enough for the pulley to engage the clutch lining.  It is adjusted with the nut next to the yoke spring (adjust in small increments to get the right clearance).</span>

 

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">DADoes is correct, Whirlpool removed the rivets in the early 60's, allowing the brake lining to float and improve braking  performance.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">The other thought I had was to check the spring clip on the opposite side of the yoke.  Sometimes this clip can sit in the wrong position on the locating shaft.  If it is not positioned properly it will also affect the movement of the yoke downward.  </span>

 

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Hope this helps.  It's such a nice looking machine, I hope you can get it running soon.  </span>

 

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Good luck!</span>

 

[turquoisedude]

James,  I remember seeing the sanding down of the tee-bearing on another restoration (by John when I got my '56 Whirlpool Imperial) but in that case, we had swapped transmissions and I think we just replaced the spin tube.  With the Lady K, I got the complete basket drive assembly, so I wasn't sure that I'd need to do this.

 

Alan, I had been reviewing the Whirlpool/Kenmore service literature I have and I wondered if the basket clutch shaft needed some adjustment - I am just not sure how I'm going to get a ruler in there to measure the clearance.... LOL 

 

So after groceries, I'll take another look-see.   

 

Thanks for the suggestions!!!

 

 

 

 

 

[swestoyz]

Great suggestions on checking the T bearing, as well as the clutch to pulley clearance. The sounds from the video suggest that the clutch continues to slip just enough to not fully grab on the spin pulley.

Another thought I had was to check which spin cam bar you have installed. When Whirlpool went to the smaller clutch around 1970 for the quick brake, the springs were stiffened as well, causing issues for the earlier non-hardened cam bars. The instruction sheet I have for a few NOS replacement basket drives come with a replacement hardened cam bar in case the basket drive is used on a pre-1970 machine.

Ben

 

[turquoisedude]

D'OH!

Ben, I think you've hit the nail on the head.... The basket drive 'kit' included a new cam bar, but me, being me, thought, "Well mine ain't broke..."  It probably won't hurt to swap it.    I didn't have an instruction sheet with my basket drive kit - darn it.  

 

So guess who's pulling the Lady's gearcase out (again) this afternoon?   LOL 

 

[114jwh]

I took a picture of the instructions for the new basket drive kit I had when I did my rebuild. I ended up just replacing the spin tube on the old basket drive and kept the kit as a spare but thought the instructions would help someone down the road.

Loading…

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[114jwh]

If you are taking the gearcase out anyway, check the t-bearing just in case. The bearing sits inside the spintube so even if you are replacing the whole basket drive, you still have a new spin tube.

Good Luck Paul! Hope the 2nd time is the charm

 

[turquoisedude]

Thanks James! Since everything is out again I'll check it again.

 

I am pretty much convinced the new spin cam bar is going to do it... note the 'bump' in the middle of the new bar. I feel confident that this will raise the yoke assembly sufficiently to 'grab' the new style basket drive.   I just hope I can securely attach the new rivet to the spin plunger!

 

So, one really does learn something new every day.  Lessons learned here: when a part comes with 'accesories', install them and when in doubt -ask questions!

 

Now, who's still betting on the Blackstone  (and there is a 1-18 wild card...)?

 

[pierreandreply4]

my guess

My guess would be the 1 18 lol

 

[combo52]

1965 LKM Washer Spin Problems

Hi Paul, the bump in the middle only helps the cam bar stay in either the spin or neutral position, it does not contact the clutch control shaft.

 

It is not the tee bearing that needs sanding etc, do be sure the TB is properly supported on the agitator shaft, there are three different styles of TBs I don't know which yours has.

 

Did you try inserting the new spin Tube in the bearings once you got the bearings installed in the center-post?, it should insert easily and turn easily as well as move in and out.

 

If you like call me before you reassemble the machine so you don't have to do it a third time.

 

John L.

 

[turquoisedude]

John,  I'll be calling you this weekend for sure!  

 

The good news - the spin tube did turn freely in the new bearings and pops out easily (3 times now.... LOL)

 

My dilemma now is that I cut off the spin cam plunger rivet to be able to change the cam bar (and full disclosure - I swear that the clutch yoke assembly moves higher with the new spin cam bar) - there was a new rivet included with the cam bar, but I'm up the creek as to how to attach the new rivet.

 

I'll load the Blackstone into the station wagon, nonetheless.... LOL 

 

 

[bigalsf]

Not a rivet

It's just a tension clip/fastener you push onto the replacement cotter pin.  A small nut driver can be used to push it onto the pin.  It's pretty tight going on so it will hold and not vibrate off.    

 

[turquoisedude]

Yes,  John said there should have been one with the new rivet, however I must have lost it when I opened the package with that in.  

 

Thinking somehow I can substitute a screw or bolt.... 

 

 

[combo52]

you can use the largest cotter pin that will fit through the hole , BUT cotter pins may break over time, if you can find a tiny push on clip for the pin you have it would be better, as this is a hardened pin.

 

[bendixmark]

poor spin

From what I have seen I would say that is mis-aligned.Remove the braces,back the transmission bolts out 9 turns,stand the machine up and tighten them each 3 turns at a time.The machine must be standing up.If you reinstalled the transmission the first time with the machine on its face you will have alignment problems.After the bolts are tight try the spin then.The drive pad clearance must be one sixteenth of an inch(whats our clearance Clarence?)The boltdown westy you posted that I bought came yesterday and wow is it beautiful.Thanks so mush again.

 

[turquoisedude]

An update....

Or "the further suffering of the Lady"...

 

The good news - found a 'speed nut' that worked with the new cam bar rivet.  If anyone runs into this issue, it is a 1/8-inch diameter.

 

[turquoisedude]

But would it spin....

Short answer.... not quite.

 

Upon reinstallation of the tub, and after the new cam bar rivet was secured, I did get the washer to spin.  However, it was noisy as hell and the belt looked like it was getting chewed up.  Not good.  

 

I found the tub was binding when I tried to turn it by hand.  Well, as Mark described above, I tried loosening the gearcase mounts to re-align the spin tube and agitator shaft (standard Whirlpool procedure).  I also slackened the belt slightly.  This resulted in no spin.  

 

After I convinced Canyon I was not speaking in tongues,  I tried further loosening of the gearcase mounting bolts, as suggested in the Whirlpool doctrine.  Well, I got the basket turning a little easier.  Spin was slllloooooowwww however.  

 

The last thing I tried this afternoon was to adjust the nut on the basket clutch shaft.  The machine seemed to be running a lot quieter but the tub started to spin, then spun out....  

 

One thing I did notice was that when I did the initial noisy spin test, when I shut the machine off the tub came to a screeching halt, which it never, ever did before.  

 

I am guessing there is some further adjustment needed here - my gut feeling is saying basket clutch shaft nut but if there is something I am overlooking, please do let me know.   I am at the point where A: I'd like the guest bedroom back, B: I'd like the Kenmore working again, and C: I really, really need some kind of a functioning washer in St-Lib.    

 

Rant over.... carry on... 

 

[stricklybojack]

.
Could the problem be electrical?

 

[turquoisedude]

I don't think so, but ya never know....  I haven't observed any trouble with the motor during agitation (like overheating or shorting).  The wig-wag has tested fine and I have seen the cam plungers for spin and agitation pull up.   

 

I have to get back to Ogden tomorrow, but when I get back, I think I'd better dive into that 1-18 in the garage!!

 

 

[bendixmark]

no spin

I still think you have an alignment problem.I am assuming you have the braces off.I would pull the transmission,double check you have nothing binding.The basket shaft should move freely in and out of the centerpost.check the t bearing that it fits smoothly into the bottom of the basket shaft.Re install the transmission and tighten the bolts only finger tight then stand the machine up and tighten the bolts 3 turns at a time until tight.The clutch pad clearance must be way off to affect spin performance but double check anyway.Make sure the upper centerpost seal is completely seated otherwise the basket collar will drag on it.Try spin again.

 

[combo52]

Slow Spinning 65 LKM Washer

Hi Paul,  Mark may have identified the poor spin problem, in your post #54 the top spin tube seal is too high and may be binding on the basket drive block.

 

I may be coming in that direction in the next few weeks, We may have to fix this washer when I get there.

 

John L.