My New Maytag A712 Washer

[scrubflex]

I finally found an A712 and It's beautiful. Here's the craigslist post pic...my camera isn't working right now.
I brought it Saturday afternoon out in Jersey for $100.00.

It has some paint chips and scratches. What's the best way to take care of that so It'll look blended and smooth?
I'm going to need longer(Maytag) fill hoses and a drain hose...they can't reach the sink connectors and drain sink.

So far I've cleaned up the outside and inside the tub...I'll remove the front panel and have a look-see underneath.
But, I'm having a problem removing the agitator.

It's stuck...any suggestions?

 

[goatfarmer]

Nice machine! Does that one have a screw that holds the agitator on?

 

[yogitunes]

Good going Harry!

Glad to see you finally found one you liked....now the fun begins....and yes check to see if it has the set screw that holds the agitator on...How long of hoses did you need?...I got 12 foot fill hoses from a parts supplier, and the drain hoses come up to 8 feet long....

 

[dnastrau]

Congratulations! Touch up...

Nice Maytag! You could try using a small artist's brush and some appliance touch up paint. That is what I did on my '61 Maytag. It isn't perfect but looks better than chipped porcelain.

 

[gyrafoam]

Yes, feel down towards the bottom of the agitator barrel and you will feel a round area where there is a bolt holding the agitator on. Use an allen wrench to loosen and tighten it.

 

[scrubflex]

Thanks guys

I did remove the screw from the bottom of the agitator barrel and it refuses to move. I don't know what else to do...anymore suggestions? I really need all the expert input help I can get to remove the agitator.

How about appliance touch up spray paint, is there a best way to use that? Which kind is most effective, tube paint or spray? And, is there a "porcelain" spray paint?

Hey Yogi, how are you...the fill hoses length are fine and the Maytag "THICK" 8 foot rubber hoses is what I need. Do you know the cost of the 8 foot hose?

(Look-see) The inside of the cabinet is VERY clean...a little suds water splash on the upper sides of the cabinet but, that's all. Oh, and aged dust dirt.

I'm going to start cleaning out the top and inside of the washer a little later.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Congrats! A A712 is a great addition to any collection. You can try filling the tub with hot water up to where the base of the agitator is on the trans post. This does not have a 'drive block' like the older machines like the 700 or 142 has so it's agitator to shaft. Maytag made a puller for that style agitator. In fact, QSD_DAN just used ours to pull one off a 712 he was parting out. I'll try to see if I can take a picture of it so you can see what it looks like and possibly duplicate when I get in to the shop this week. The hot water may do the trick if it expands the agitator. God forbid, if you break it getting it off, there are TONS of that common style available!

RCD

 

[dnastrau]

Paint; stuck agitator; no drive block on my A700...

For my exterior touch up I use appliance epoxy paint. For small areas like chips I spray it in a paper cup and use a small artist's brush. Mineral spirits will clean the brush.

For touch up on the gray base I found that Rustoleum "smoke gray" #7786 is almost a perfect match. The only downside is it is a gloss spray paint and the original is more of a semi gloss/satin. It sure looks better than stained original paint or rusty metal though.

On the agitator: Several people here said that dumping a couple of large pots of boiling water down the hole where the lint filter normally is sometimes helps to get them loose. I was lucky as the one in my '61 A700 came right off. When you put it back on be sure to clean any rust off of the shaft's splines and then coat them with some petroleum jelly and you'll never have a problem getting it off in the future.

Just a follow up on what Andrew (redcarpetdrew) said about Maytag agitators. My A700 has a splined shaft (no drive block) and will accept the later "Power Fin" agitators. As a matter of fact, the original bakelite agitator was replaced with a '66 and newer black "Power Fin" on mine at some point in the past. Based on the three books that I have it even looks like the old AMP series Maytags have a splined agitator.

Good luck in getting it off. I'll bet that hot water will do the trick.

Andrew S.

 

[yogitunes]

Harry

the original hose for Maytags is expensive, and I think it only comes in 5 foot lengths, a longer one would be available maybe if you get one for a model without the anti-siphon, where it connects directly to the pump....next option is I have a few 5 footers, cut off the gooseneck, and use a few connectors, this would make it the length you need, and still be the thick hose your looking for, these puppies are stiff hoses, can't wait to see this machine up and running and loads of pics....i love your version because of all the speed options, mainly the high spins with the slow wash....something to keep in mind when running a long drain hose, also, theres a pulley option for the motor that makes the pump run faster for high pump out levels

new toys are so much fun.....keep us posted

 

[scrubflex]

keep 'em coming

Thanks...I'll try the pots of boiling water...hopefully it'll do the trick.

Tell me, how much tub leaning is TOO MUCH? It maybe nothing but, it seems something is off-center.

 

[qsd-dan]

Tell me, how much tub leaning is TOO MUCH? It maybe nothing

The springs may need to be adjusted to center the tub. My 712 (formally A490) was waaaaay off straight from the factory when it was new in 1985.

Run a few large loads through the machine and see where the tub ends up at the end of the spin cycles, before attempting to re-center it.

 

[scrubflex]

Are you able to tell with an empty tub? I'm running the spin cycle with the front panel off right now and I notice when it begins to spin there's a throbbing, hard vibrating sound. The tub shakes TOO much for while being empty. The cabinet is stable but, the empty tub bumps against the cabinet as it complete the spin. I'm not a mechanic but, how do I start to (adjusting the springs to-the-center-of the tub)? What do I need to do and is it a difficult task?

 

[qsd-dan]

there's a throbbing, hard vibrating sound. The tub shakes TOO much for while being empty. The cabinet is stable but, the empty tub bumps against the cabinet as it complete the spin.

Something is seriously wrong! The "tree" should only shake very minimally during the spin cycle, if at all, with an empty tub.

First, check all 3 springs and make sure there aren't any broken ones, or ones that are missing the lower anchor and double nut.

If that checks out, the springs may need some serious adjustments. If the inner tub was ever removed for any reason (stem and seal replacement or a complete overhaul), the person doing the job may have not taken the time to "center" the inner tub before putting the machine back together. Usually there will be a scrapping sound of the inner tub rubbing (or smacking) against the outer tub if it's waaaaay out of center. It doesn't take much, though.

This would be a good opportunity to check and or lube and or replace the damper pads. Doing any of those requires the springs to be re-adjusted. Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone!

 

[scrubflex]

Martin, will the pulley for the motor that makes the pump run faster speed up all the other action as well...like the 50 Hz pulley?

Could the tub have been knocked-off center more so because of being laid on its back while loading the washer on the moving van... I didn't have a tub block.
After checking it again, when the tub stops spinning the outer tub top rim (over-hang) isn't wayyyy off center...it's about 1/2" OUT more on the right or left side of the tub.
And, there isn't any scrapping sounds or smacking against the outer tub during peak high speed spin...just slight bumping...the cabinet doesn't move.
But, I did notice the front right leveling leg is lower than the others could this cause bad balancing?

 

[scrubflex]

Hey guys, I'm letting the washer agitate with the boiling hot water and the "Power-Fin" agitator will not release itself from the shaft.

 

[scrubflex]

Should I have let the agitator sit in the boiling water? The agitator will not pull off, what can I do without breaking tht agitator.

All 3 spring are fine, all have double nuts. When tightening the springs do I make the adjustment from underneath the baseframe only? Should I adjust all 3 springs? And, what can I use as a 1/2 lb. balancing weight to help center the tub?

When the tub starts spinning there's a vibrating (RUMBLING) sound. I read in the service manual the "radial bearing may need to be replaced". But, I (timed) the brakes and it stopped in (6 seconds), that's normal functional time.

Should I replace the Brake Package System?

 

[qsd-dan]

When tightening the springs do I make the adjustment from underneath the baseframe only?

Yes. I use a 4X4 piece of wood and place it under the right (looking at the machine) front foot. It will allow you to slide under and reach all 3 springs nuts.

Should I adjust all 3 springs?

Adjust only the spring(s) that allow the tub to become center. From there, you must keep an eye on the spin cycles while doing laundry and judge if any spring (or all) need to be tightened to bring the tub center or keep the machine from going out of balance too easily. It takes a few loads of laundry to get them adjusted to perfection.

When the tub starts spinning there's a vibrating (RUMBLING) sound.

Yeah, that's probably the radial bearing going. You'll need the brake tool to remove the brake package. Once the brake package is off, turn it upside down and the bearing will usually fall right out. Install in reverse. You'll need to re-adjust the lug stop after installing the pulley. It's easy and is probably off anyway.

Should I replace the Brake Package System?

Don't replace it unless the tub is indexing during agitation. If the brake makes any noise while braking after a spin, it just needs a teaspoon or so of thick oil dumped into it.

 

[dnastrau]

Make sure the washer is level before you adjust those spring

...or you may just be compensating for the washer not being level in the first place. I level my machines on the top of the cabinet across the front (in front of the lid opening) and sides (next to the lid opening.) Adjust the feet until level and tighten the jam nuts - then recheck. Also check for diagonal rocking. It may take a bit of trial and error.

 

[scrubflex]

Qsd-dan, when I first checked out the springs I noticed the eye bolt and nut moved along with the spring. This made me wonder if I had to (hold) the nut still while I tightened the nut underneath the baseframe.

Just to be sure, how do you determine first what spring or springs need to be tightened. And, is there a such a thing as TOO TIGHT?

Dnastrau, "I level my machines on the top of the cabinet across the front..." what do you mean, by your eyes?
One of my leveling foot pad is worn out to the metal footing.