Nearly a month with the Homemade Laundry Powder...

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charbee

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Jun 28, 2006
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...and we're lovin' it. All the clothes seem brighter, softer, and fluffier. Best of all, there's absolutely NO smell or scent, just the smell of CLEAN. We were afraid that everything would smell like Fels soap or the vinegar, but it really doesn't even enter into the picture as far as the final outcome.

We found recipes on the web, and decided to try the simplest one we could find. Just grate up one bar of Fels (we actually grated it and then used the Cuisinart on the grated chips to get it as finely ground as possible...worked great!) and combine with two cups each of Washing Soda and Borax, all three readily available at most large grocery stores. We keep it in an airtight plastic container and stir it around before we use it.

All we use of this is ONE Tablespoon. That's it. We always start the water off on "HOT" for about thirty seconds of filling, add the tablespoon of powder and let it dissolve, and then switch the temp to either warm or cold, depending on what we're washing. Then one 1/4 cup of plain white household vinegar into the Fabric Softener dispenser in the middle of the agitator on the 'Tag, and that's it.

The way the clothes come out would be enough reason to keep using it, but the $$$$$ we're saving is definitely incentive. We used to use one capful of whatever liquid we had (that worked out to $4-$5 every two weeks) along with 1/4 cup each of Washing Soda and Borax (that added up, as well). With only one tablespoon of the homemade stuff, we're not only saving bucks, but putting far less "stuff" into the drain.

Something we can feel good about all around, basically.
 
Excellent!

I have sung the praises of vinegar as a rinse agent for years. Some people listen and try and others can't be bothered...they may be fragrance addicted or have lots of money!

So, does this work in a front load machine...or better still, is it low sudsing?
 
Don't know if you are using modern Fels, or vintage, but there is some difference.

Older formulas of Fels soap were close to a laundry detergent in bar form as one could get. In addition to naptha, there is sodium silicate (washer parts protection), washing soda (water softening and increased cleaning power), bluing/fabric whitening agents, and glycerin.
 
On the classic boxes of Instant Fels or Ivory Snow, they recommend using 1 to 1 1/2 cups of soap per washload. They recommend having at least 1 inch of suds on the water to ensure you have enough in there to suspend dirt and not get any scum or curd.

I have heard many, many people using only a tablespoon of a Fels/soda/borax mixture. I can't see how this can be effective, and I imagine that it won't take long to have gray, dingy laundry. IMHO and YMMV...

In my Miele, I use at least 1/4 cup of grated Fels along with 1 tsp of STPP. When I use a toploader, I use about 3/4 cup of grated Fels and about 2 tbsps of STPP to get the recommended suds layer.
 
ronhic: Don't know about front loaders...we're using it our old Maytag A407. Do you generally use more or less detergent in a FL machine? I'd imagine that the vinegar would work regardless of top or front.

Launderess: I guess we must have gotten the "modern" kind, as the bar says "contains no solvents." If there's that big a difference, maybe it would be worth trying to find some of the vintage stuff on eBay. What year did they switch the formula?

PeterH770: There isn't any sort of sudsing at all, but then the liquid detergents we were using didn't suds at all, either. So far we haven't noticed things not being "clean" or looking gray. What we have noticed is that the wash water looks very dirty, and the rinse water looks much clearer than it used to. Whites seem to be fine so far.

As for how much to use, I'd also venture a guess that the manufacturers always say to use more than you need...they want to sell more product, eh? So far the one tablespoon thing seems to work. If the clothes start looking bad, we'll change the amount.
 
Vintage Fels,

Don't know what year but it was after Dial acquired the brand.

All my vintage Fels bars (and I have quite allot, about two large boxes full), are made by Purex. Also have a huge stash of another great laundry soap, Kirkman's Borax soap.

Modern Fels used to contain Stoddards Solvent, instead of naptha. SS is another form of petrol chemical, but it allowed Dial to state on the label "does not contain naptha".

L.
 
I've been using the homemade stuff for about five years, when the soap based liquid I was using vanished from the shelves. Before that I was a faithful customer of Ivory Snow powder. I've been using Zote, but my stash of it is getting low. I may try modern Fels when I run out. By the way, Fels MSDS states it contains "terpene processing by-products". Terpenes are a class of plant based hydrocarbons, the word is derived from terpentine.

Lisa
 
Austin's water is definitely what I'd call "hard" but not the worst compared to some of the other towns here. We are on "city water" which is treated to the max...I've seen some "well water" that leaves such a crust that you'd think it was saltwater.

When we were using the liquid detergents, I even put in two capfulls one day just to see if I could MAKE it suds up...nope!
 
My 2 cents

Hey guys--

I just thought I would throw in my two cents here. A few years ago, to economize, I started making my own detergent. I tried the powder recipe and the liquid. I mainly stuck with the liquid, at first. To start, I had a TL, and used about a half cup. Then I got a Bosch Axxis, mainly switched to the powder, and dosed at about a tablespoon. For what its worth, I did find it worked better in the TL than the FL. Results were still very good, both ways. However.....

After about 2 months of using it, all of my white towels were that famous tattle tale gray. My whites just didnt impress me anymore, either. (I am OCD about my whites) Nothing I did could reverse it. So, I gave them to charity, since no one cares what color free towels are. :) The water here was very hard, did not use softener, and always used extra rinse. To this day, I do not know if I was underdosing, or it was the hardness of the water. Or it could have been a combination of lots of things. I would use it again, because I now have a whole house softener, and the cleaning was fine. But, I do not wanna risk all that grayness again. So, thats my experience......

Joel
 
Thing to remember when using soaps for laundry is that the stuff does not ever totally rinse out of textiles. This accounts for the "soft" feel textiles laundered in soap have.

The oils and fats in soap act the same way as fabric softeners on natural fabrics. Fabric softeners themselves are many combinations of tallow, fats and oils, which by the way were invented to counter the problems of harsh feeling textiles laundered in "detergents", after soap was dethroned as the queen of the laundry room.

Many persons having tried the homemade laundry detergent route, report the same problems; after awhile their laundry turns dull, grey and dingy.

Remember again soaps do not have the complex chemcial concoctions that modern detergents, especially top shelf verions like Tide have. One has only to look at the army of products and chemicals our grandmothers or mothers had to have when soap was the only thing for cleaning laundry. Everything from ox gall, to turpentine, to bluings and so forth.
 
Keep us updated, charbee. Ive been tempted to try this soap recipe, but our water is hard here in SA. And i dont like to wash in hot often. Im also afraid of deposits in the tub. Perhaps if i had a water softener or some phosphates. Let us know how it goes in a few months.
 
Zote!

Zote is sold at Shoppers' Food Warehouse (SFW), a Washington, DC chain. The website listed on the package is www.zote.com.mx. The version sold at SFW is the pink version. They also sell 2 versions of something like Venus laundry bar soap. (I don't recall the exact name). I think one is pink, and the other is blue.

If we can't collect machines, we can certainly collect soaps and detergents,
Dave

 
I think it's as much about the vinegar as well as the ho

I will keep y'all updated as to how things progress.

I'm just wondering: the folks who started getting "dingy gray" results: were they using the 1/4 cup of vinegar in the fabric softener dispenser?

I thought the vinegar was what "cut" the soap film, and helped wash it out in the rinse, preventing the gray buildup, and also having the benefit of keeping the machine's innerds cleaner, too.
 
A "sour" rinse is will only get one but so far when laundering with soap. Remember the main purpose of a slightly acid rinse is to counter the harshness of alkaline detergents. While the process does remove some minerals and detergent/soap residue, if done incorrectly will cause textile fibres to shut down tightly and trap any remaining soap/detergent and other muck.

When laundering with soap, old school rules required the first, and perhaps next one or two subsequent rinses are with hot or at least warm water. This allowed flushing away of soap, muck, scum and everything else before textile fibres started closing down.

An acid rinse in of itself probably will not reverse really dingy laundry. For that one has to do a stripping wash, which involves laundering the offending items in the hottest water possible with no detergent/soap but using water softener. Phosphates would be ideal, or even Calgon liquid, which now is sodium citrate. Washing soda will work as well, but is the least favourite option, as it is hard on fabrics.

If you want to see if your laundry has any build up from your home made brew, try the above, you can get STPP from various sources.

In regards to making your homemade brew, I'd skip washing soda, or replace most of it with phosphates. STPP is a much better water softener, especially when one is using soap because it binds hard water minerals to itself, rather than causing them to settle.

L.
 
Minor correction

" STPP is a much better water softener, especially when one is using soap because it binds hard water minerals to itself, rather than causing them to settle. "

Washing soda also binds hard water minerals to itself. The difference is that STPP is able to keep the mineral-STPP combination suspended in solution, whereas the washing soda-mineral combination falls out of solution (precipitates) and settles on the fabrics or on the washer parts. If you've ever taken apart an old washer and seen the cement-like deposits inside the outer drum, you'll know what I mean. The precipitate from washing soda and hard water minerals is mostly either calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate - which is essentially what limestone is made of.

The scientific reason why STPP is able to bind the hard water minerals and not form a precipitate has to do with its "complex" structure. The three phosphate groups in STPP act on hard water minerals a bit like a surfactant acts with oils - binding the hard water mineral in one area of the STPP molecule while presenting a hydrophilic front to the surrounding water, keeping the entire combination in solution. Washing soda, or its close cousin, TSP, can't "hide" the mineral from the water and the resulting combination is hydrophobic and falls out of solution as a precipitate. Interestingly, the STPP molecule, being more complex and of higher energy than TSP, is less stable than TSP and over time in the presence of moisture and heat will decompose into TSP, thus losing most of its power as a laundry additive. This is one reason why phosphated dishwasher detergents that contain STPP are sold in moisture resistant packaging, and usually contain advice on the label to keep the opened box in a cool dry area and to use it up within a certain amount of time.

A while ago I did some home tests to show just how washing soda, TSP, and STPP react to hard water. I have a well on the property that I use for irrigation only. It's fairly hard water, whereas the municipal tap water if fairly soft. I too three glass jars, filled each with some well water, and then added washing soda, TSP, or STPP to each one. The ones with washing soda or TSP got cloudy, with visible white precipitate forming, which eventually settled to the bottom of the jar. It looked a bit like lint. The jar with the STPP stayed clear - no precipitate.
 
Question to the experts
When laundered with real soap only, wouldn`t a sour rinse transform the soap residues back to fatty acids which then could become more easily rancid, or is the acid of a laundry sour too weak to do that ?
 
When I was using the homemade detergent, I was using vinegar in the final rinse. I never used it except on diapers in the top loader, and when I swtiched to the FL, I used it all the time. I do know the my clothes were always soft, even when line drying. I rarely washed in cold, as a general rule. I washed 120 for whites, and 140 for towels, and the Bosch always rinsed in cold. So it is very possible that that first rinse after a hot wash, did cause the fibers to shut down, therefore trapping the soap. I never had rancid clothing, for the record. So, again, I think it was my very hard water, combined with the cold rinse shock, that caused my whites to get all dingy. In my opinion, unless you are using all warm rinses, then vinegar as a sour would not provide all that much benefit to the laundry itsself.
 

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