Need help determining old GE model number to help identify boot (many photos)

[cardinal24]

Our old washing machine leaks bad. Boot is dislodged.

PROBLEM 1: We don't know the model number - It is scratched off (see photo)
PROBLEM 2: We don't know the boot model number (see photos)
PROBLEM 3: We don't know where to buy the replacement boot

Notes: We do have the serial number. The URL Link suggests 1976 or 1988. (See URL below)

See photos of:
- machine top and innards (back view):
- of boot (4 photos)

Thanks

GE Appliance - How to Determine the Age or Manufacture Date

 

[mrb627]

Boots

Have you looked up the boots on the web? I don't think there were very many versions of the boot.

Malcolm

 

[gansky1]

This is what you're looking for.  Should work just fine once you clean up the flange on the outer tub and around the top of the transmission so you get a good seal.  I always use a little silicone sealant as well to ensure no drips.

 

Your machine looks like it has had a little leaking around the top of the outer tub as well so make sure when you put it all back together that the rubber seal is seated well (silicone helps here too) and the water and filter inlets are sealed tight.

 

 

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[goatfarmer]

If there are no holes in the old boot seal, you might be able to reuse it. Clean all the mounting surfaces, and use a bit o' silicone, as suggested. Make sure the clamps are usable, too.

 

[repairguy]

The agitator coupling on top of the transmission shaft has separated and needs replacing also. The rubber part is probably still in the agitator and will have to be removed as well as the part still on the transmission spline. This should be one piece. Part# WH1X1944 Good ol' heavy duty washer!

 

[cardinal24]

More info on this issue

The model number is (almost certainly): WWA8354WML. The AD suffix means "Almond". BTW: 800-GE-CARES determined this from (only) the parts of the model number that we could see.

The part number of the "Mechanical boot" is:
Orignal: WH08X0246 (sometimes this part number is WH08X246 (0 removed).
Replacement: WH08S10018

Now I know enough to order a replacement boot. Prices vary from $16 to $55 (plus shipping).

Alternatively to ordering, I can clean (the lime off) this boot. What solvent works good for that?

 

[cardinal24]

Rubber seal ?

Gansky1 wrote (see below):
Anyone know the part number of this seal - and where to get it?
The one on my machine should be replaced.

"Your machine looks like it has had a little leaking around the top of the outer tub as well so make sure when you put it all back together that the rubber seal is seated well (silicone helps here too) and the water and filter inlets are sealed tight."

 

[cardinal24]

How can I remove these stuck agitator parts? Thanks!

I’ve purchased the replacement part.

Can you please suggest:
1) How to remove the rubber part stuck in the agitator? I think I can see it.
2) How to remove the part still on the transmission spline?

RepairGuy kindly told me this (see Reply #4, above)
"The rubber part is probably still in the agitator and will have to be removed as well as the part still on the transmission spline. This should be one piece. Part# WH1X1944"

 

[delaneymeegan]

 

Years ago (80s and mid 90s), when I was fixing GE washers, I never bought a new boot.  I would always soak the old boot, and clean it well before reusing it.  

 

If I were doing it again, I would get a gallon of white vinegar, a plastic bag about the size of the boot and then some, put the boot in, and fill the bag with vinegar so that all the surfaces of the boot are immerses.  

Let that sit for a  day or so, then carefully remove the boot, rinse off, and gently clean with a sponge and dish soap.  You may have to take course steel wool to the surfaces that sealed up to the transmission and tub to get off any remaining gunk.

 

One could also consider putting the boot in the dishwasher after the vinegar soak.

 

And I agree, I don't think there was ever more than one "GE washer boot".  It didn't matter what capacity, they were all the same. 

 

Also, be sure and clean the surfaces of the washer tub lip and the transmission so that they are smooth and ready to have the boot sealed onto them.  Again, soaking with vinegar to soften gunk helps.

 

I never had problems with leaks.  If you have to replace screws or bolts in the stainless steel expandable  clamps, be sure to also use stainless steel screws and bolts.  You dont' want anything rusting out that could contaminate your clothes and eventually cause a leak.

 

[cardinal24]

Hi delaneymeegan
Thank you for your comment.

For better or worse, I've already purchased a replacement boot.

Can you help with (see Reply #7) removing the rubber part of the agitator-coupler stuck in the agitator?

Thanks. Also I seek tips on cleaning (removing residues) before putting the machine back together.

But, thank you again,
David

 

[mrb627]

Agitator

Does the agitator have a cap on it labeled Activator?
That cap may be popped off exposing enough of an opening to push the rubber piece out of the agitator with an awl or ice pick.

Malcolm

 

[delaneymeegan]

 

"Can you help with (see Reply #7) removing the rubber part of the agitator-coupler stuck in the agitator? "

 

Not sure exactly what you're referring to here. 

 

The agiator in a GE Filter Flo washer does not have a screw to hold it in place like a  Kenmore.  The agitator simply sets unto the geared tip of the transmission.  Yes there is a rubber piece in the end of the agitator WHICH STAYS IN THERE.  That rubber piece in the end of the agitator is glued in.  If you remove it, or in the rare instance that it should come detached, you will need to find an appropriate glue to re-adhere it.

 

To remove an agitator from a GE washer (assuming it's not rusted on), you need simply grasp the base by sliding your fingers under the edge, and with a quick thrust pulling upwards.  Ideally that's how it should come off.  

 

A bare transmission should look like this (without the protective red clowns nose end on the gear tip).

 

[cardinal24]

Does agitator coupler need replacing - attachedare 10 photos

Thank you all for your help.
My question is about the "agitator coupler" (part WH1X1944).
If I understand correctly:
Reply #4, above, suggests I need to replace my agitator coupler.
However, reply #11 suggests I don't.

Perhaps I am not understanding something. This is my first washer repair.

These 10 photos attempt to show the inside of the agitator, where something black is, and the spline (shaft or post) that the agitator goes onto.

I'm not sure I understand but it SEEMS like reply 4 says: "what's inside the agitator needs to come out" and reply 11 says: "It must NOT come out".
Again, I might be misunderstanding.

Hopefully, these 10 photos will clarify this.

 

[yogitunes]

I think your confusion is, normally it doesn't come out of the agitator when you pull it out of the machine.....the metal and rubber stay in there.....

you have a not uncommon situation where it has separated......and nothing will put them back together, you have to order a new one.....

in the top of the agitator, there is that little disc we'll call it(pic #1), that can be cut out and tossed, and then with a proper sized socket, or screwdriver, you can push that rubber piece out....once reinstalled back in the machine, the activator cap will cover everything back up.....

a little grease on the transmission shaft, and the rubber piece, will help re-assembly

 

[cardinal24]

How to pull (separated) metal part off of transmission shaft

My agitator-coupler has separated.
The rubber part is stuck in the top of the agitator. The advice of Yogitunes (reply #13) sounds great and I expect it will work.
The metal part is stuck on the transmission shaft.
I am guessing that I need to just "yank" it up and off.
My first attempt to do that failed. I added WD-40 and haven't yet tried again. Is there a secret or a technique to pulling the (separated) metal part of the agitator-coupler off of the transmission shaft? (See photos 9 and 10 of
Post# 893029 , Reply# 12 above).
Thank you

 

[repairguy]

The piece that is still on the transmission shaft should just pop off and that is all that holds the agitator on the transmission. Unfortunately after being on there for approximately 25 years it will probably be stuck. I have not had to remove many of these so I probably don't know what the best way would be. I have taken a pair of vice grip pliers and attached them to the top of stuck on coupler where the pliers are in a 90 degree angle with the transmission shaft and used a 3 pound hammer to hit the bottom side of the pliers sometimes leading to success in removing the coupler.

 

[cardinal24]

Metal part of agitator-coupler stuck on transmission shaft

Of course I'm afraid of breaking something.
My agitator-coupler separated. The rubber piece is in the agitator. No problem. I'll get that out.
(I bought the replacement part)
However, the metal part is stuck on the transmission shaft.
When I pull it up, it moves a little, maybe a 1/4 inch but no more.
So it's stuck but has movement?
It has been suggested to me (Post# 893360 , Reply# 15) that I attach a vice grip (horizontal / parallel to the floor) and smack the underside with a 3 lb. hammer.
I understand those instructions but, as I said, I'm a little scared.
Is it typical that it moves a little but is still stuck?
thanks