Need help removing front timer dial on Maytag WU401

[qsd-dan]

Private well and aerobic septic system.

Are you concerned about the effects of salt being discharged in the septic field? The controversy about salt discharge in an aerobic/anaerobic field has been around for 30+ years but the general consensus is that an aerobic field is "supposedly" less affected/not effected all in comparison to an anaerobic field. Some studies show that even an anaerobic field isn't affected as long the water softener is properly adjusted and functioning as intended.

There's so many different opinions that it's difficult unearth the truth, even without taking other variables into consideration like sizing and soil types.

 

[DADoES]

 
Sodium ions in softened water isn't a concern but of course the regeneration discharge couldn't go into the system.

A sump pump sprays the treated effluent water onto my "back 40" yard area via two standard sprinkler heads, timed for early-morn hrs.  It doesn't run if the pump tank level isn't high enough.  An override float bypasses the timer to pump it down immediately if a toilet hangs for example.  An alarm float triggers if the pump fails.

 

[reactor]

rinse aid solenoid

My apologies, I lost track of this thread. If you haven't tested your solenoid/valve yet, look on the wiring diagram that should be glued on the inside of your door panel.

I have only had the later models' of the Reverse Rack, and they had 120 volt solenoids on the dispenser. I suspect yours does too, but check the wiring diagram to be sure. If there is no wiring diagram, trace the wires and note if they go directly to the timer. If so, it is a 120v circuit, as you have no transformer present in your machine. (The operating voltage may be stamped on the solenoid itself, anyway.)

On the later model Reverse Racks, Maytag ran the detergent dispenser in series with the heating element. The resistance of the element lowered the voltage for the bi-metal heat/operated release latch in the detergent dispenser.

If your dispenser solenoid is 120v, momentarily connect it to line voltage and see if a couple of drops of rinse agent are released. If not, you may have to clean the nozzle with a large needle and/or attempt to clean the valve body.

By the way, I grew up in a house that was built in 1954, which had a septic system AND a water softener. My parents had it installed when the house was new. Later, two of my own homes were on a septic system and I had a softener installed.

There is zero effect, absolutely zero, of a softener affecting your system in any way. It tells you this when you read the softener's instruction/installation manual. I can confirm with many decades of experiencing softener on a septic system that it does nothing derogatory, in any way. You won't even know its there.

In the long run, in may help your septic system, as you will greatly cut down on the amount of detergents you use, as soft water requires lesser amounts. You will also not be using the harsh chemicals to clean your fixtures (faucets, sinks, tub, shower stall, etc.) as they will have no longer hard water or soap scum deposits occurring on them.

Barry

 

[bgregoire]

@reactor: Thanks again for all the tips. I tried running the solenoid directly on 120v, and its running like a charm now!

Its been a few weeks, and although the white film is much less a problem than before, I think I do need to keep using Borax (hard water), and I now understand that the best solution would be to add it in the main wash cycle as mentionned above. I don't have the patience to do that however!