Our beloved Maytag A806 washer required its first service call in its 31-year life. The repairman thinks it needs a new timer (I'm not sure which model of timer but can check with my husband). We've tried the Sears parts people who did have a price listed for the timer but now say the part is unavailable. We hate to give up on what has been a fabulous machine. Does anyone know where else we might look?
Need timer for 1978 Maytag A806 Washer
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Great washer, I have 4 of them displayed in my livingroom 
If the washer is a non-suds saver model and has the "Permanent Press" cycle (most 806's are of this combo), the part # is 204499 (Yes, that part# came off the top of my head. Yes, I have no life, lol). That timer was used for almost 15 years so it shouldn't be too hard to locate one.
Keep us informed!
If the washer is a non-suds saver model and has the "Permanent Press" cycle (most 806's are of this combo), the part # is 204499 (Yes, that part# came off the top of my head. Yes, I have no life, lol). That timer was used for almost 15 years so it shouldn't be too hard to locate one.
Keep us informed!
Here are some places that claim to have it.
www.mdappliance.com
If these sources don't happen to stock one, contact me and I'll give you a much longer list of possibilities.
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If these sources don't happen to stock one, contact me and I'll give you a much longer list of possibilities.
Timer.
What are the specific symptoms? Our A806 just had some timer issues. As it turns out, it was just a timer motor and not the whole timer. It was a relatively simple fix and our A806 is now washing away as it did when it was made in 1975.
If post your serial number's last 2 characters. This 2-letter code will tell the month and year of manufacture. If your washer is a late 806 (31 years old would be a late one) it should be a series 2. Confirming this will help with troubleshooting.
After 31 years, you may want to consider new belts. They're cheap, fast, and easy to replace. It's maybe a 5 minute job. Also, while you have the control panel's rear cover off, you might want to replace the starter for the light. It will add about 30 seconds to the job and the part is about $2.50 (the starter is an FS-2 and is available at Lowe's or Home Depot). I just replaced ours and now the light blinks to life much more quickly.
Good luck,
Dave
What are the specific symptoms? Our A806 just had some timer issues. As it turns out, it was just a timer motor and not the whole timer. It was a relatively simple fix and our A806 is now washing away as it did when it was made in 1975.
If post your serial number's last 2 characters. This 2-letter code will tell the month and year of manufacture. If your washer is a late 806 (31 years old would be a late one) it should be a series 2. Confirming this will help with troubleshooting.
After 31 years, you may want to consider new belts. They're cheap, fast, and easy to replace. It's maybe a 5 minute job. Also, while you have the control panel's rear cover off, you might want to replace the starter for the light. It will add about 30 seconds to the job and the part is about $2.50 (the starter is an FS-2 and is available at Lowe's or Home Depot). I just replaced ours and now the light blinks to life much more quickly.
Good luck,
Dave
Thank you!
Thanks so much for all your replies. You guys rock! It is the model with permanent press and I'm going to ask my husband to come onto the forum tonight with the details of the machine and the problem. It would be so great if we can get the washer running again. We feel like we're losing a member of the family.
Thanks so much for all your replies. You guys rock! It is the model with permanent press and I'm going to ask my husband to come onto the forum tonight with the details of the machine and the problem. It would be so great if we can get the washer running again. We feel like we're losing a member of the family.
Thread Number: 26681 Need timer for 1978 Maytag A806 Washer
Thanks to all for your replies. Here's what I can tell you along with some more questions.
The washer is a A806 Series 02, Serial Number 696728 CA. The timer I tried to order was indeed a 204499.
The Symptoms are:
1. When starting the tub will not fill, but otherwise goes through the motions it use to at about the same speed. (I did check to be sure I had water pressure at the inlets and a I do.) My thinking was this ruled out the timer motor.
2. It will not stop at the end of the cycle and just keeps going into the next program.
3. It does sound as if the drain cycle is trying to run when it starts and should be filling.
Since the machine has never been touched, what is the advice on the following?
1. If I change belts, do I also need to change hoses?
2. How many belts are involved?
3. How many hoses are involved if the advice is to change hoses and what kind of a job is this not only to change them but to find the hoses.
3. Here's my biggest concern and thus question. The washer is on the first floor directly over where I store my tools in the basement. What are the risks with a machine this old flooding and costing me a lot more in new tools than a new washer would be?
Thanks to all for your replies. Here's what I can tell you along with some more questions.
The washer is a A806 Series 02, Serial Number 696728 CA. The timer I tried to order was indeed a 204499.
The Symptoms are:
1. When starting the tub will not fill, but otherwise goes through the motions it use to at about the same speed. (I did check to be sure I had water pressure at the inlets and a I do.) My thinking was this ruled out the timer motor.
2. It will not stop at the end of the cycle and just keeps going into the next program.
3. It does sound as if the drain cycle is trying to run when it starts and should be filling.
Since the machine has never been touched, what is the advice on the following?
1. If I change belts, do I also need to change hoses?
2. How many belts are involved?
3. How many hoses are involved if the advice is to change hoses and what kind of a job is this not only to change them but to find the hoses.
3. Here's my biggest concern and thus question. The washer is on the first floor directly over where I store my tools in the basement. What are the risks with a machine this old flooding and costing me a lot more in new tools than a new washer would be?
Have you tried W.L. May on Aurora Ave N at Oak Tree? They have had everything I've needed for my Maytag and if it's not in the store, it comes from their Portland warehouse overnight. My 2 cents. Greg
"When starting the tub will not fill"
That sounds like a bad water valve to me. However, the rest of the symptoms indeed sound like a faulty timer. During the "attempted" fill cycle, do hear a "buzzing" sound? You should, as this is the water valve(s) engaging. Remove the hoses to the water valve and check the screens. It's common for the screens to get plugged up with rust (especially if you live in an older house with galvanize pipes) and it'll prevent water from passing through the valve.
"1. If I change belts, do I also need to change hoses?"
Nope. As long as the hoses are not cracked or leaking, no need to change them out. If you want to change them out, the tub-to-pump hose would be the main concern as it would do the most water damage.
"2. How many belts are involved?"
Only 2. They're incredibly easy to change out. Push the motor carriage forward and roll both of them off of the motor pulley. Install in reverse. The belts in these machines are cloth-lines as they're designed to slip during beginning of the spin cycle (this eliminates the need for a clutch, among MANY other parts). It's a good idea to clean all four pulley grooves (transmission, pump, and motor) with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove any belt residue (or anything else) in the grooves.
While you're at it, rock the motor carriage back and forth. If it doesn't "glide" with ease, it's time for a spring and glide kit.
"What are the risks with a machine this old flooding and costing me a lot more in new tools than a new washer would be?"
Pretty rare. They'll generally give you fair warning and slowly drip for quite some time before flooding the place.
That sounds like a bad water valve to me. However, the rest of the symptoms indeed sound like a faulty timer. During the "attempted" fill cycle, do hear a "buzzing" sound? You should, as this is the water valve(s) engaging. Remove the hoses to the water valve and check the screens. It's common for the screens to get plugged up with rust (especially if you live in an older house with galvanize pipes) and it'll prevent water from passing through the valve.
"1. If I change belts, do I also need to change hoses?"
Nope. As long as the hoses are not cracked or leaking, no need to change them out. If you want to change them out, the tub-to-pump hose would be the main concern as it would do the most water damage.
"2. How many belts are involved?"
Only 2. They're incredibly easy to change out. Push the motor carriage forward and roll both of them off of the motor pulley. Install in reverse. The belts in these machines are cloth-lines as they're designed to slip during beginning of the spin cycle (this eliminates the need for a clutch, among MANY other parts). It's a good idea to clean all four pulley grooves (transmission, pump, and motor) with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove any belt residue (or anything else) in the grooves.
While you're at it, rock the motor carriage back and forth. If it doesn't "glide" with ease, it's time for a spring and glide kit.
"What are the risks with a machine this old flooding and costing me a lot more in new tools than a new washer would be?"
Pretty rare. They'll generally give you fair warning and slowly drip for quite some time before flooding the place.
Drain cycle.
The way this washer's mechanical systems work is as follows:
There is one motor, it can run forwards, stop, and run backwards.
During fill, the motor is off.
During agitation, the motor runs forward. This runs the transmission via one belt and the pump (running backwards) via the other.
During drain, spin, and spray rinse, the motor runs in reverse (driving the pump forward).
When the washer starts to spin/drain, the motor runs backward at full speed (or slow speed if "gentle spin" is selected). This runs the pump forward at the same speed as the motor, pumping water out. At the same time, the transmission belt intentionally slips in lieu of a clutch. This is why the pump can run at full speed while the tub starts to spin slowly and then accelerate faster and faster to its maximum spin speed of 618 RPM.
Assuming both belts are intact and connected, the only way the pump can run in the direction to pump out water is when the tub is spinning.
The sound you likely hear when you turn on the washer is the water valve solenoid engaging. I would disconnect the hoses from the spigots and test the spigots to see if they are getting water pressure and flow (have a bucket handy). If they both work, check both ends of the washer hoses. They often have screens which can become clogged with mineral deposits, pipe debris, or 35 years of silt and dirt in the water. If the hoses get good flow and pressure (the hoses have the same threads as a garden hose so you can test them outside), then check the screens on the washer's water valve where the hoses screw on. The screens should be visible as soon as you remove the hot and cold fill hoses from the back of the machine.
If ALL of this checks out OK, then please let us know.
As for the timer, if the timer advances on its own, then the motor is OK. If it fails to stop, it sounds like a chipped cam which would necessitate a new timer. (It could be a sticking contact which would require opening the timer and cleaning or a new timer). A timer replacement isn't a bad job, you just have to take the wires off the old one and put them in exactly the same places on the new one. Make a drawing and take pictures before you start. New timers can be ordered through most appliance parts stores or they can be found on ebay. If you do get a new timer, save the old timer motor! Those motors are getting harder to find and aren't getting any cheaper.
The hoses are usually fine. If you can grab them and squeeze them to see if they are still soft, they are fine. If they are rock-hard, they could stand a replacement. If you get a leak during fill from the back left corner of the washer, it's just the injector which costs under $20.00 and takes about 10 minutes to replace. If you have mineral deposits in your water valve, I would replace the water injector anyway.
Yes, it's worth fixing,
Dave
The way this washer's mechanical systems work is as follows:
There is one motor, it can run forwards, stop, and run backwards.
During fill, the motor is off.
During agitation, the motor runs forward. This runs the transmission via one belt and the pump (running backwards) via the other.
During drain, spin, and spray rinse, the motor runs in reverse (driving the pump forward).
When the washer starts to spin/drain, the motor runs backward at full speed (or slow speed if "gentle spin" is selected). This runs the pump forward at the same speed as the motor, pumping water out. At the same time, the transmission belt intentionally slips in lieu of a clutch. This is why the pump can run at full speed while the tub starts to spin slowly and then accelerate faster and faster to its maximum spin speed of 618 RPM.
Assuming both belts are intact and connected, the only way the pump can run in the direction to pump out water is when the tub is spinning.
The sound you likely hear when you turn on the washer is the water valve solenoid engaging. I would disconnect the hoses from the spigots and test the spigots to see if they are getting water pressure and flow (have a bucket handy). If they both work, check both ends of the washer hoses. They often have screens which can become clogged with mineral deposits, pipe debris, or 35 years of silt and dirt in the water. If the hoses get good flow and pressure (the hoses have the same threads as a garden hose so you can test them outside), then check the screens on the washer's water valve where the hoses screw on. The screens should be visible as soon as you remove the hot and cold fill hoses from the back of the machine.
If ALL of this checks out OK, then please let us know.
As for the timer, if the timer advances on its own, then the motor is OK. If it fails to stop, it sounds like a chipped cam which would necessitate a new timer. (It could be a sticking contact which would require opening the timer and cleaning or a new timer). A timer replacement isn't a bad job, you just have to take the wires off the old one and put them in exactly the same places on the new one. Make a drawing and take pictures before you start. New timers can be ordered through most appliance parts stores or they can be found on ebay. If you do get a new timer, save the old timer motor! Those motors are getting harder to find and aren't getting any cheaper.
The hoses are usually fine. If you can grab them and squeeze them to see if they are still soft, they are fine. If they are rock-hard, they could stand a replacement. If you get a leak during fill from the back left corner of the washer, it's just the injector which costs under $20.00 and takes about 10 minutes to replace. If you have mineral deposits in your water valve, I would replace the water injector anyway.
Yes, it's worth fixing,
Dave
mrb627
Well-known member
Timer
If the timer continues on into the next cycle and wont fill, the water level switch could be stuck in the full position. That would be my first test before spending money on a timer.
Malcolm
If the timer continues on into the next cycle and wont fill, the water level switch could be stuck in the full position. That would be my first test before spending money on a timer.
Malcolm
Malfunctioning 806
Malcolm it sounds like you are most likely correct in your assessment. Its either a bad water level switch or maybe a clogged hose going from the outer tub to the WL SW.THis is a serious hobby and it amazes me the advice given out so freely from people who have very little experience fixing washers. Recent advice has sent people looking for belts,hoses, tools that are clearly not needed if you listen to the questions being asked. This again a serious hobby you can be injured or killed working on appliances. This is also meant to be a warning to those asking the questions make sure you know competency of the person giving the answers.
Malcolm it sounds like you are most likely correct in your assessment. Its either a bad water level switch or maybe a clogged hose going from the outer tub to the WL SW.THis is a serious hobby and it amazes me the advice given out so freely from people who have very little experience fixing washers. Recent advice has sent people looking for belts,hoses, tools that are clearly not needed if you listen to the questions being asked. This again a serious hobby you can be injured or killed working on appliances. This is also meant to be a warning to those asking the questions make sure you know competency of the person giving the answers.
surgilator_68
Well-known member
Competency
Repairing washers or any appliance for that matter takes a considerable amount of knowledge. Not only about the particular machine but how each individual system functions, together and individually. A vast amount of time and money can be wasted chasing down parts and tools that simply are not needed.
Not only can you be injured or killed, there is also a possibility of property damage. Be it flood, fire or something else.
You must be competent in your skills and knowledge. I know how nice it is to offer help and advice to someone but if you don't really know what you are talking about why put yourself in the position to cause loss, damage or injury. It's not worth it, defer to someone who knows.
Repairing washers or any appliance for that matter takes a considerable amount of knowledge. Not only about the particular machine but how each individual system functions, together and individually. A vast amount of time and money can be wasted chasing down parts and tools that simply are not needed.
Not only can you be injured or killed, there is also a possibility of property damage. Be it flood, fire or something else.
You must be competent in your skills and knowledge. I know how nice it is to offer help and advice to someone but if you don't really know what you are talking about why put yourself in the position to cause loss, damage or injury. It's not worth it, defer to someone who knows.
If the timer continues on into the next cycle
I'm trying to understand why others here believe a faulty water level switch would cause a timer to go into the next cycle? ONLY a faulty timer would cause itself to advance PAST the "OFF" position and into the next cycle! That has nothing to do with a water level switch. I'm willing to bet once the timer is replaced, everything else will begin to function correctly.
I'm trying to understand why others here believe a faulty water level switch would cause a timer to go into the next cycle? ONLY a faulty timer would cause itself to advance PAST the "OFF" position and into the next cycle! That has nothing to do with a water level switch. I'm willing to bet once the timer is replaced, everything else will begin to function correctly.
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
It is indeed a pressure switch issue!
Symptoms: no filling, will dry agitate and will continue thru to the next cycle. That is a water level switch stuck on full. The way the wiring on a dependable care is that if the water level switch senses full at the end of the cycle, current will flow thru the closed contacts and allow it to bypass the 'off' contact on the timer and allow it to advance into the next cycle. Like it was said above, check the pressure hose for blockages, otherwise it's the level control. I don't know if it's still available but if not, I've parted out a couple of 806's and my have one...
RCD
Symptoms: no filling, will dry agitate and will continue thru to the next cycle. That is a water level switch stuck on full. The way the wiring on a dependable care is that if the water level switch senses full at the end of the cycle, current will flow thru the closed contacts and allow it to bypass the 'off' contact on the timer and allow it to advance into the next cycle. Like it was said above, check the pressure hose for blockages, otherwise it's the level control. I don't know if it's still available but if not, I've parted out a couple of 806's and my have one...
RCD
"The way the wiring on a dependable care is that if the water level switch senses full at the end of the cycle, current will flow thru the closed contacts and allow it to bypass the 'off' contact on the timer and allow it to advance into the next cycle."
Ahhhhhh, ok. I get it now.
Ahhhhhh, ok. I get it now.
Belts, etc.
My recommendation for belts and maybe an injector is based not on any symptoms of a malfunctioning machine, just routine maintenance on a 30+ year old Maytag. Repairs are great, but maintenance will prevent future surprises.
On a Maytag, change your belts every 20-30 years,
Dave
My recommendation for belts and maybe an injector is based not on any symptoms of a malfunctioning machine, just routine maintenance on a 30+ year old Maytag. Repairs are great, but maintenance will prevent future surprises.
On a Maytag, change your belts every 20-30 years,
Dave
Maytag belts
You are wasting your money to change belts on any type of time basses you change them by condition. The pump belt can last upwards of 50 yrs I never change them in sets doing so is just plain wasteful and does not improve performance. MT probably had the best water pump & belt system used on any automatic washer ever.
You are wasting your money to change belts on any type of time basses you change them by condition. The pump belt can last upwards of 50 yrs I never change them in sets doing so is just plain wasteful and does not improve performance. MT probably had the best water pump & belt system used on any automatic washer ever.
Best pump and belt system.
I fully agree that Maytag's pump and belt system is likely the best ever used. I disagree, however, on the subject of belt replacement. After about 30 years, the belts on my machines have started to get a bit noisy during normal operation and the performance of the machine has been a bit off. Given that the belts are so cheap, easily available, and ridiculously fast and easy to change, I have gotten into the habit of just replacing them when I get a machine. Our A206 was manufactured in the spring of 1970 and had its original belts. It ran OK, but I replaced them and it ran a bit better.
I normally frown on unnecessary work, but Maytag belts are just so easy that with minimal effort, the washer is ready for another couple of decades of service.
Every time I work on a Maytag, I am blown away by the simplicity, durability, and longevity of these machines. I have developed a great respect for their designers.
Dave
I fully agree that Maytag's pump and belt system is likely the best ever used. I disagree, however, on the subject of belt replacement. After about 30 years, the belts on my machines have started to get a bit noisy during normal operation and the performance of the machine has been a bit off. Given that the belts are so cheap, easily available, and ridiculously fast and easy to change, I have gotten into the habit of just replacing them when I get a machine. Our A206 was manufactured in the spring of 1970 and had its original belts. It ran OK, but I replaced them and it ran a bit better.
I normally frown on unnecessary work, but Maytag belts are just so easy that with minimal effort, the washer is ready for another couple of decades of service.
Every time I work on a Maytag, I am blown away by the simplicity, durability, and longevity of these machines. I have developed a great respect for their designers.
Dave
Need timer for 1978 Maytag A806 Washer - Update
Thanks for your help on the time. I did try ML May - no luck. I tried a number of others and the only site that looked promising was CL Appliance - Miami. I am now stuck in their system. They gave me an order number, but did not take my credit card information and have not replied to email or voice mail.
On the discussion of the timer vs. valve, here's some more of the symptoms. The cycle will sometimes stop without advancing, but if the machine is jostled it then moves to the next cycle. To my mind this seems like a mechanical connection that is no longer working, putting me in the camp of the timer.
I think I followed the discussion of the closed connection on the valve and the current flowing through the contacts, but if that were the case is there a reason for it to only sometimes advance to the next cycle and to be affected by mechanical motion?
Thanks for your help on the time. I did try ML May - no luck. I tried a number of others and the only site that looked promising was CL Appliance - Miami. I am now stuck in their system. They gave me an order number, but did not take my credit card information and have not replied to email or voice mail.
On the discussion of the timer vs. valve, here's some more of the symptoms. The cycle will sometimes stop without advancing, but if the machine is jostled it then moves to the next cycle. To my mind this seems like a mechanical connection that is no longer working, putting me in the camp of the timer.
I think I followed the discussion of the closed connection on the valve and the current flowing through the contacts, but if that were the case is there a reason for it to only sometimes advance to the next cycle and to be affected by mechanical motion?
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