Neptune 6500 lost its mind

[DADoES]

 
Dealing with a flaky MAH6500AWW.  Appears to be a stuck/bad Start/Pause button.

Variously .....

Machine is off, none of the buttons work.

Machine is off.
- Pressing one of several buttons turns it on with Wrinkle Free and the last-used options selected.
- Start/Pause doesn't function, no beeps, does not start it running.  [EXCEPT, it may start on Wrinkle Free IF Start/Pause is pressed directly instead of some other button first.]
- When it turns on to Wrinkle Free with some other button such as Heavy Soil or whatever, all the other buttons to change cycle or options, including Off, beep an "error raspberry."  Cannot select a different cycle or change any options.  Cannot initiate Diagnostic mode.
- Waiting approx 2 mins for three beeps (timeout for cycle to start?), the buttons then work to change cycle or options, including Off, except Start/Pause is still dead.
- Turn it off, THEN diagnostic mode can be initiated.
- Key tests work except Start/Pause fails (no light or beep).
- Individual tests work (hot, cold, pump, door lock, etc.).
- Help codes list 19, 08, 19, 19, 10, 08, 08, 10, 08 ... all described as non-fatal.
- Diagnostic codes list 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15 (which is stuck key).  I reset the Diagnostic Code list.  Did some button/cycle/power finagling.  Called up the Diagnostic list again, Code 15.

 

[washdaddy]

you mention the code 15 "stuck key". Could it possibly be the start/pause key that is causing the problem?

 

[yogitunes]

can you pull the schematic sheet and see what that code translates to?

had a similar issue with a 5500 series dryer, pushing the start pad would bump it, but not allow it to turn on fully....

-first the repair guy was blaming not enough current from the outlet....
-then it was the touch pad
-finally it was the main board that needed replacing.....

keep us posted

 

[panthera]

While it's quite possible

That the pad has stuck 'on', there's a few other possibilities to check out.

Has something fallen across the contacts, bridging them?

Has a capacitor in direct line with that contact shorted?

In multiplexed circuits, it's possible something is causing a constant resistance across that line?

 

These are things which often fail apart from the touchpad.

 

If all else fails, you could try cutting through one trace to that pad and see if that fixes it - if it does, then a momentary switch would fix it. Of course, that would be the last stop before a new board. Which is outrageously expensive.

 

I'll say it again: There's no excuse for the awful quality of electronics in consumer appliances, not when automotive electronics works as reliably as it does. I mean, if GM can get it right, Whirlpool can too. If they want to.

 

[gizmo]

I'm not familiar with this Maytag, but I have fixed several Fisher and Paykel machines with button problems.

Does the Maytag have membrane switches (which are the work of the devil) or microswitches behind the membrane? The FP machines have individual microswitches which can be easily unsoldered and replaced. They are fractionally different to the microswitches I can buy easily in electronics shops, but I have kept a few dead display boards and just swap switches off the dead boards - it is always the most used buttons that go, such as Power and Pause/Start, so I swap across the less used option switches like delicates and woollens.

I have also repaired one FP board where the membrane panel had split and the owner had kept using the machine, presumably with wet hands, as moisture and possibly some detergent found its way onto the tracks of the circuit board, corroding the tracks and causing some short circuits. The symptom was completely bonkers behaviour - different faults, never repeatable, very random behaviour. I cleaned off the board, repaired some damaged tracks with solder (I think I had to replace a track with a wire link) then sprayed the repaired board with a circuit board lacquer to protect it in future. The machine lasted for years after that.

 

[DADoES]

 
Yes, I figure the Start/Pause button is the stuck key since it's erratic, and likely would interfere with the other keys from working if it's making constant contact.

The panel is "push"button, not capacitive, but I expect it's a membrane mechanism, not microswitches like F&P.

Hopefully that's the only problem.  I suppose at this point it's a process of elimination ... change the panel, see if the trouble is fixed ... then move on to the next item if not.

There apparently are two series numbers, 10 and 37, with different panels.
22003910 white series 10
22004440 white series 37

 

[DADoES]

 

The serial is 47927450JG (April 2006) so I assume that's series 37 (or higher).

 

[DADoES]

 
Got a used panel from an eBay seller.  Fellow called to confirm some details on the order, surprised me.  Apparently is a service guy who sells recycled parts.

Did the replacement this afternoon.  The machine was powered on when I arrived, with the door open so DO on the display.  Swapped the panel, the machine reacted by being dead ... no power-on when plugging in the cord, no response from any buttons.  :-|

Swapped the old panel back, it powered on but some buttons clearly not working.  :-/

Swapped the replacement back in and it's OK.  ????
All the buttons pass the key-test, left it running a cycle.

 

[henene4]

Probably just a bad connection. Glad to hear you could fix such a unique machine!

 

[yogitunes]

keeping our fingers crossed.....this fixed your issue....

I knew you would have no issues with diagnosing and repairing this.....

BTW...who is this seller with used parts?....we may need him in the future

keep us posted