Thanks! I didn't know about Zanussi. My grandmother's 1965 didn't do it, but I don't have much experience with other models.
Here's a Constructa going into spindrain.
Here's a Constructa going into spindrain.
Neutral Drains...
- Thread starter wishwash
- Start date
Help Support :
yeah, SOLID TUBS threw the water up and over the top of the tub during spin.....not perforated tubs...
hence the addition of the OVERFLOW rinse!
hence the addition of the OVERFLOW rinse!
Hence why they did not care about the pump being slow when the tub was spinning out water. 1140 was reached after the water was thrown out.
And in turn
The pump could the work on pumping out the outer cavity at its correct speed over th.
The pump could the work on pumping out the outer cavity at its correct speed over th.
I think it has a lot to do with the types of soil are typically in each of our laundry.
If you live on or near the beach or your farm has sandy soil, you probably wouldn't want a solid tub machine-------although millions just wiped the sand off the bottom and kept on washing. I remember when there were Frigidaire machines all over Florida. I don't think "ejector tubes" worked very well, just a gimmick.
I personally prefer an overflow rinse.
Vintage Maytags spin-drain and I never had a problem cleaning any clothes in one.
I think a neutral-drain is a problem with greasy soil. I've had to avoid washing greasy kitchen towels in neutral-drain machines because the grease and oil get re-deposited on the clothes. Most obvious is my old Kenmore. If I have been washing greasy oily things it always leaves a water level ring on the Roto-Swirl. And, I wash everything in hot water---- sometimes rinse with hot as well.
John L. Shared his theory about old Unimatics------the early ones had a double-rinse not an overflow.
He feels like two separate tubs of rinse water, well spun out in between provides a better rinse. Makes perfect sense to me.
If you live on or near the beach or your farm has sandy soil, you probably wouldn't want a solid tub machine-------although millions just wiped the sand off the bottom and kept on washing. I remember when there were Frigidaire machines all over Florida. I don't think "ejector tubes" worked very well, just a gimmick.
I personally prefer an overflow rinse.
Vintage Maytags spin-drain and I never had a problem cleaning any clothes in one.
I think a neutral-drain is a problem with greasy soil. I've had to avoid washing greasy kitchen towels in neutral-drain machines because the grease and oil get re-deposited on the clothes. Most obvious is my old Kenmore. If I have been washing greasy oily things it always leaves a water level ring on the Roto-Swirl. And, I wash everything in hot water---- sometimes rinse with hot as well.
John L. Shared his theory about old Unimatics------the early ones had a double-rinse not an overflow.
He feels like two separate tubs of rinse water, well spun out in between provides a better rinse. Makes perfect sense to me.
Can I be honest here?
I feel misunderstood.
When I wrote post #12 I specifically had perforated tub washers in mind. Just because I did not include solid tub machines does not render my post erroneous. If you have a perforated tub machine with a typical induction motor and typical pump you will need a clutch- there is simply no way around that. Solid tub machines can afford to toss their water out of the inner tub in a short amount of time quickly removing the strain off the motor then allowing the pump to remove the water at rated motor speed at a rate the plumbing can handle.
With a perforated tub machine water resistance to some degree or another is always present during the whole 1 minute to 1 minute 90 second pump out. Again, it is simply not possible to bring that tub up to 640 RPM with a 1/2 HP motor while the machine is full of water (and neither with a Unimatic, as you notice full 1140 rpm is only reached after the water has been thrown out), so the perforated tub will slow down the motor and in turn pump. The slow pump will only increase evacuation time, and the lowered motor speed will force the start winding to either drop back on or never drop off in the first place during the pump out. Neither are good conditions...
If anyone is ever in the experimental mood the above can be verified. Take an automotive belt (that will not slip as well) and place it on a Maytag dependable care. Tension the motor carriage so it does roll back during start up with a full tub of water. I am willing to bet all the above will take place.
I feel misunderstood.
When I wrote post #12 I specifically had perforated tub washers in mind. Just because I did not include solid tub machines does not render my post erroneous. If you have a perforated tub machine with a typical induction motor and typical pump you will need a clutch- there is simply no way around that. Solid tub machines can afford to toss their water out of the inner tub in a short amount of time quickly removing the strain off the motor then allowing the pump to remove the water at rated motor speed at a rate the plumbing can handle. With a perforated tub machine water resistance to some degree or another is always present during the whole 1 minute to 1 minute 90 second pump out. Again, it is simply not possible to bring that tub up to 640 RPM with a 1/2 HP motor while the machine is full of water (and neither with a Unimatic, as you notice full 1140 rpm is only reached after the water has been thrown out), so the perforated tub will slow down the motor and in turn pump. The slow pump will only increase evacuation time, and the lowered motor speed will force the start winding to either drop back on or never drop off in the first place during the pump out. Neither are good conditions...
If anyone is ever in the experimental mood the above can be verified. Take an automotive belt (that will not slip as well) and place it on a Maytag dependable care. Tension the motor carriage so it does roll back during start up with a full tub of water. I am willing to bet all the above will take place.
speedqueen
Well-known member
I can verify that it will trip the motor overload. My A207's motor carriage was rather rusty and while for a month or so, penetrating oil did the trick for getting the motor to slide in a bit, the thing started having issues again and I was forced to take the carriage base out, wire brush the rust away and put 4 coats of gray Rustolium paint on it. I greased the base upon reassembly, and it now runs like a dream.
Most front-loaders get it right: Tumble the load as water drains through a perforated tub. Tumbling shakes sand, etc., out of the load before spin begins.
Tumbling shakes sand, etc., out of the load before spin.....
Just ask Betty Furness!
Just ask Betty Furness!
hilovane
Well-known member
I had an Asko that would stop tumbling, and neutral-drained before going into the spin. (It also didn't tumble when it was filling with water).
rolls_rapide
Well-known member
My current Panasonic has static draining, like a bath draining.
I'm pretty sure both my Mum's and Gran's old Hoover Electronic 1100s (A3110) tumbled as they drained. This seems a sensible approach, as the water is kept moving, helping to dislodge dirt from the clothes. I suppose it also assists in flushing the pressure vessel's opening too, especially where zeolite detergents are used.
I'm pretty sure both my Mum's and Gran's old Hoover Electronic 1100s (A3110) tumbled as they drained. This seems a sensible approach, as the water is kept moving, helping to dislodge dirt from the clothes. I suppose it also assists in flushing the pressure vessel's opening too, especially where zeolite detergents are used.
My 20 year old Asko starts the drain while the drum is still but then begins tumbling during the draining.
What Betty failed to mention about the old Westinghouse machines was their ability to tangle the hell out of clothes. Can't get the sand out of those. Especially sheets. I'm thinking beach towels were a separate load!
any given machine can have a hassle of some sort with sheets or items like long sleeve shirts....and apron strings are a given.....
show me a dryer that doesn't roll items like sheets, blankets/comforters into a ball.....we just adapt, and every so often, open the door, re-fluff the load, and place back in for even drying.....
dryers that reverse tumble is a joke at best, good thought, but doesn't alleviate the issue......
sometimes I will pull the balled up load out, flip it, and place the ball back in the dryer, it will unroll, fluff, and roll back up in the opposite direction.....the mysteries of a dryer!
mainly its the fitted sheets that cause issues, and worse for the ones that have elastic all the way around....
show me a dryer that doesn't roll items like sheets, blankets/comforters into a ball.....we just adapt, and every so often, open the door, re-fluff the load, and place back in for even drying.....
dryers that reverse tumble is a joke at best, good thought, but doesn't alleviate the issue......
sometimes I will pull the balled up load out, flip it, and place the ball back in the dryer, it will unroll, fluff, and roll back up in the opposite direction.....the mysteries of a dryer!
mainly its the fitted sheets that cause issues, and worse for the ones that have elastic all the way around....
Reversing dryers
There is good reversing, and then there's "reversing".
For example, the Miele Professional dryer here in my dorms basement runs 90sec one way, 90sec the other way. That works perfectly.
The bedding cycle on AEGs (ELux) heatpump dryers in Europe runs 2min with a 30sec reverse, AFAIK. That works good.
Mieles "intelligent" reversing algorythm is ok. AEG has something simmilar for their normal cycles.
Then there is dryers that only reverse with way to short intervals, or those who reverse only on cool down, or those which reverse like once in the entire cycle.
These don't work.
There is good reversing, and then there's "reversing".
For example, the Miele Professional dryer here in my dorms basement runs 90sec one way, 90sec the other way. That works perfectly.
The bedding cycle on AEGs (ELux) heatpump dryers in Europe runs 2min with a 30sec reverse, AFAIK. That works good.
Mieles "intelligent" reversing algorythm is ok. AEG has something simmilar for their normal cycles.
Then there is dryers that only reverse with way to short intervals, or those who reverse only on cool down, or those which reverse like once in the entire cycle.
These don't work.
Forward ... Reverse ...
Mine runs 4 mins forward and 40 seconds reverse, repeated continuously throughout drying and cool down. The post-cycle wrinkle guard function reverses on each 30 second tumble (at 5-min intervals). It seems effective. Flat sheets, fitted sheets, quilts, etc. ... rarely have anything come out damp due to balling-up. The drum and baffle design may be related. Each of the three baffles has a "dip" in a different place -- left, center, and right.
Mine runs 4 mins forward and 40 seconds reverse, repeated continuously throughout drying and cool down. The post-cycle wrinkle guard function reverses on each 30 second tumble (at 5-min intervals). It seems effective. Flat sheets, fitted sheets, quilts, etc. ... rarely have anything come out damp due to balling-up. The drum and baffle design may be related. Each of the three baffles has a "dip" in a different place -- left, center, and right.
Interesting thing; never have issues with bed linen tangling when using large commercial/laundromat dryers. OTOH at home is another matter. Even the reversing AEG Oko-Lavatherm will tangle sheets.
Happily don't machine dry bed linens often so this isn't a major worry.
One wonders if it large drums of commercial dryers have something to do with things not getting tangled for most part.
Happily don't machine dry bed linens often so this isn't a major worry.
One wonders if it large drums of commercial dryers have something to do with things not getting tangled for most part.
I've always wondered if you could just slightly ramp the tumble speed up and down throughout the drying, if the harmonic that causes certain items to clump or ball would be broken. We have a new lathe at the shop and it has the ability to ramp the spindle speed up and down instead of running at a constant rate. This improves the finish by breaking any resonance between the tool and the work that causes chatter. This would likely work with laundry also, albeit at a slower RPM and not using a 40 horsepower motor!
It`s not just your impression Launderess, the diameter of a dryer`s drum has definitely something to do with tangling or balling up larger things.
My first drier was a compact 3 kg capacity Creda non reversing one. One of those cheap toy dryers that vented through the door.
It couldn`t handle anything larger than hand towels. After 3 minutes with sheets as soon as a heavy ball rolled up it would literally jump around because in addition to the small drum diameter it was such a light weight.
Had occasional tangling problems with other regular 5 kg dryers as well but never to such an extreme extent.
My first drier was a compact 3 kg capacity Creda non reversing one. One of those cheap toy dryers that vented through the door.
It couldn`t handle anything larger than hand towels. After 3 minutes with sheets as soon as a heavy ball rolled up it would literally jump around because in addition to the small drum diameter it was such a light weight.
Had occasional tangling problems with other regular 5 kg dryers as well but never to such an extreme extent.
