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NEW WASH ARM DESIGN

Matt you are correct that this is a good wash arm design and like you I just cannot accept having a HOT DW running in my kitchen for even two hours. DWs have very little real thermal insulation around them, I am sure that it is not even R-2 in insulating value. The Frigidare DWs that have been around now for almost ten years do the alternate wash arm thing and they work very poorly and end up just moving food residue from one area of the machine to another. I guess one of these years I will try one of these new machines just to see how bad they are. Although my friend and coe owner Jason has had at least 20 different DWs in his house over the last ten years and none have worked as well as the 1/3 HP motor WP power-clean design and he always goes back to them.
 
"The Whirly-pee" time for a prostate exam?

The new wash arm design is clever but that pitifully weak spray doesn't look like it could knock a stray piece of parsley off a plate.
 
kenmore dishwasher,

i have bought around 1998 a kenmore dishwasher and was very satisfy with it and around 2005 bought yet again a kenmore dishwasher witch i am very satisfy and if i have to buy a dishwasher again aka eather because of a move to a new house or because the one i had broke because it did its time i would most certainly buy a kenmore dishwasher again and i would not be suprise that in a few yesrs from now dishwasher use the power of steam to clean dishes the water sprays would mostly be use to disloge food from the plate and that would mean that water consomation would also be reduce if you look at the smart wash cycle its an high efficency cycle. just look at this model in my link

 
WHY WHY WHY do we insist on going to a design that includes a filter that is not self-cleaning?

Are none of the DW manufacturers smart enough to add an option that doubles or triples the motor/pump speed (in a "special" cycle/programme)to make machines perform the way they used to? Noise, water, comsumption, TIME efficiency, and results!

It's getting to the point that new dishwashers may have to be used just to rinse and dry-- and at that just and expensive drying rack to not have to LOOK at dishes (whether clean or dirty) on, in or near the sink.

I wish we could all get together and jury-rig a new, stock machine to really work quickly and well.

I really want to get a good-old fashioned commercial undercounter machine that does a two minute wash and two minute rinse. Even if I have to run the damned cycle three times!
 
Steve, if you got one of those commercial machines and tried to put it in your apartment, you'd cause your whole building, if not the whole bock, to have a clackout and sparks flying evrywhere. 
 
WHAT?

I've only had 20 d/w's in 10 years? I'm slowing down. I think I've had 7 in this house alone.

Maybe I'll try one of these newfangled things. I guarantee you it won't clean like the power clean nor will it be able to handle the food that goes in there but I'll give it a shot. I'm sure it will be the cause of a few Joan Crawford moments.
 
A few thoughts

*the use and care guide posted is for the least featured model that does not offer alternating spray arms. Alternating models use less water.

*don't think the video is accurate as far as pressure & pauses.

*the wash temperatures have been lower for several years now and the enzyme detergents do work well at temps of 125 or less.

*the reduced wash temps are kinder to glassware, overglazed patterns etc.

*certain Whirlpool built filter model machines do have variable speed wash systems.

Scraped dishes, loaded correctly with good detergent; the machines are more than capable of delivering a clean & dry load with a minimum of water and energy use.

L.P.
 
A few thoughts!

I could be wrong but I was informed all these DW's used alternating spray arms.
As for the cooler temps most people do have their water heated to 120 or 125 so why to just maintain that temp with a really long washing time is crazy. Origionally the purpose of lowering you water heater is to have the DW heat to a higher sanatizing temp. If people choose to wash their dishes at a lower temp, that is fine with me. Most loads I would do I want done with good hot water and the quicker the better. The problem with these newer models is that it doesnt give you a choise as to how you the consumer want to wash your dishes.
 
these newer models is that it doesnt give you a choise as to

Peter, yes they do, IF they are knowledgeable about their machine. It's called, you select high-temp or sani temp options. That will get you 120 or 130 degree main wash temps, respectively. Final rinse temps will be 140 or 155 degrees respectively. I have to admit, I did think of you while my dishwasher was running last night. I had a pretty strange, and unusual load last ight that didn't purge any soil out the filter at those points inh the cycle. But, it DID drain the prwash water, which surprised me immensely because it's been extremely rare it does this without any purge. (It must have been the darker colored tomato sauce colored prewash water that tripped it to do that, same with lots of hot chocolate residue in mugs in the winter). For the lightest soil, the main wash is only about 30 minutes long and is about 115 degrees. Last night's main wash was 40 minutes, probably got to 120 degrees. When there is a purge in prewash, the main wash cycle is 58 minutes minimum and it does vary as to how hot the water heats to. But what was the kicker in the pants was the final rinse was almost 35 minutes long simply because it had to heat the final temp to 140. I remember think, oh this would drive Peter nuts. I don't really obsess over it, I just let it do its thing the way it was designed to do.
 
 
Peter, the reason for lowering the household water is to save energy. Whether or not the dishwasher heats higher is incidental, not directly related. If the dishes can come clean out of the machine at lower temps, then even more water-heating energy is saved. Also, if you read the details closer on Pages 16 and 17 of the instruction manual you posted, it seems to be saying that the rinse is normally at 140F even when the wash is 105F.

Page 16 says High Temp increases the wash temp (on Normal and Pots & Pans cycles) from 105F to 130F. Nothing is referenced about rinse, so one would assume in that case the rinse stays at the "standard" temp.

Page 17 says that Sani Rinse increases the main wash from 105F to 120F, AND the final rinse from 140F to 155F.

So ... maybe I'm interpreting it wrong ... but I take it to mean that the standard temp of the final rinse is 140F. Selecting High Temp option increases the wash from 105F to 130F, leaves the final rinse at 140F. Selecting Sani Rinse increases the main wash from 105F to 120F (10F lower than High Temp) and the final rinse from 140F to 155F. High Temp PLUS Sani Rinse would (theoretically) give a 130F main wash and 155F final rinse.

Perhaps someone who knows the details can clarify.
 
Glenn, there is an owners manual for the Kenmore Elite Pro online.  It said the main wash temp was raised from 105 to 120 for both high-temp and sani-rinse options.  The final rinse temp was raised from 140 to 155 when Sani--rinse option was used, so that leads one to believe the final rinse for no options is 140 degrees.

 

I just looked at the highest-end KitchenAid Superba and it said high-temp scrub raised main wash temp from 105to 120 degrees.  The sani rinse option raised main wash temp from 105 to 130 and final rinse temp from 140 to 155.  I particularly like to use sanirinse option when I've been cooking with beef or chicken and I have utensils in there that were used with the raw meat. 
 
Temperature!

If these dishwashers do heat the rinse water to 140 without options - that is a good thing. It is still disappointing that the hi temp wash option doesnt go to 140! Biggest issue here is even when hi temp option is used it takes a long long time to heat to 130. (whats the point in having a high temp option if it isnt really high temp)
I would also like to get more info on these dishwashers. I would also like to know if the spray arms work independatly as I thought or if is reserved for the TOL models!
Thanks
Peter
 
I would be willing to bet

That since this an ULTRA WASH he that the spray arms work independantly (one at a time). Since soil levels are not broken out, I would think, for example, that Normal would be prewash, main wash, purge, final rinse, plus dry time.
 

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