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mandorob

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Aug 2, 2014
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Hi I'm Rob and just joined the forum as a new owner of a Maytag DE606 and an HA107.I love old things that I can fix, restore and use on a regular basis. I found this pair locally for $40 and after some research thought this might be a nice pair to replace my 90's Kenmores which are very clean but I'm kind of tired of fixing. I wanted something with more simplicity and a cooler look. These Maytags certainly fit the bill but it seems that they are small, particulary the washer, and I'm wondering if this set is actually practical for a wife and toddler in cloth diapers!
The dryer is very clean but the washer bottom has serious rust as it seems to have been leeking from the outlet hose inside the cabinet. I took a look inside and am very impressed with the simplicity and quality of all the componets.
I guess I'll need to get them in the basement and use them for a bit to see how they work.I'll post the serial number later as I couldn't figure out the date codes.
If I decide to keep them I'll keep a thread of restoration progress.Thanks, Rob in Wisconsin.

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Nice score, Rob! I suspect if you give them a full-on tune up using all the wonderful information you'll find on this site, they will be more than adequate to handle all your laundry needs. And you can probably pass them on to your toddler when they're ready to leave home. They'll still be runnning.

-Jim
 
Center dial Maytags

are solid and reliable. Your washer is lower end and one speed, but nevertheless has Maytag reliability and strong construction. My 1979 A608 had tons of rust from a leaking water inlet hose, it still runs fine 3 years later. Sand, prime, paint, no problems. Keep in mind that "lower end" is speeds, options, dispensers for fabric softener and bleach. "Lower end" still has the same mechanics and motor and transmission and cabinet as the highest end.

Neither machine is huge, but they are a matched set for size. The 606 dryer fits a load of 107 wash perfectly.

As to the one speed----if it has a GENTLE or DELICATE cycle on the timer knob, then it gives a wash cycle of agitate-pause-agitate, etc. If you don't overload when you run the gentle cycle, and use the highest water level, you can wash the most gentle items in this washer, no problem. NO washer does gentle well on the lower water levels.

If it has a permanent press cycle, avoid that. Water waste bigtime.

Keep asking questions and posting pictures, but most Maytags of this era are long-lasting and solid performers. While they aren't as huge as 2014 models, they deliver fine results and clean rinsing. Whether a huge washer or not, the diapers are a seperate load anyhows, give them 2 rinses.

Can't beat the price!
 
Thanks for the replies, greatly appreciated. I can't wait to do some work to these things and fire them up. I've been searching unsuccesfully for a service manual. There seems to be an older one for sale on the sister site but I'm not sure if it would cover these models or not.Idon't have the serial number here but I'm pretty sure these are 70's machines. Anyone know the whereabouts of any service manuals. They do seem like pretty straight forward machines but having a manual always makes me a bit more confident about things. Thanks, Rob
 
Welcome!!!

You will find many friendly, helpful people here. I restored a 1976 Maytag set a few months ago. You may want to check out my thread, becasue my washer had a badly rusted base plate as well. It's caused by the siphon break in the fill tube. You'll wanna pull that thing out and replace it with a piece of PVC or the like. There are plenty of people here to help you get your machines up and running in no time!

 
Thanks for the reply that is a really nice pictorial you posted, all those pictures will be very helpful if I decide to go the same route. I really love the lighted panels! Mine are not TOL and I really don't know if I wan't to put much time and money into these machines yet. We will need to do a few loads to see if the tub size is an issue.
Here are the serial numbers if anyone knows how those date codes work.
HA 107 series 1 094112 WZ
HDE 606 series 1 363274 YB
Thanks in advance, Rob in Wisconsin
 
your washer & dryer's birthdate......

the washer is:
December of 1975.

the dryer is:
January of 1976.

pretty cool, your washr was made one month before your dryer!!!

;o)
 
Thanks for the dates, I figured it was around there but it's nice to actually have a birth date.
Well, the dryer looks pretty good, minimal lint, rust,control panel is in decent shape also. The washer on the other hand must have had multiple leaks, the entire bottom is rusted and many hose clamps are needing to be cut off they are so rusted. The good news is I fired it up in the driveway with no water hooked up on spin and it worked good after fixing the lid switch. My plan is to clean and inspect all hoses, buy some new hose clamps and reconnect everything.Some seriously corroded electrical will be fixed as well.Any suggestions on how to clean the brown stuff out of the inside of the drum, it's really on there and I don't know what it isThe agitator and lint trap came off easily and I've got them soaking in some hot water and dish soap. Here's some shots of the little one helping and what I found upon opening it up.
More soon,
Rob

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Nuh auh

Super iron out from Lowes for the rust in the Tub Rob!

You can take your machine completely apart if so inclined and re work it from the ground up and get rid of all that rust on the base. Infact, find another machine that does not have all that and part it out for a better base. Have done it, and it's a lot of work but very doable.
 
Well I'm getting deeper into it than I wanted just for a test run, but things need fixing. A couple questions on the mixing valve.
1. Is there a gasket that goes in between the metal bracket and the blue plastic valve body (picture 2)?
2. Can the metal plate be pried apart and the orange pieces removed to paint the bracket (picture 3)?
3. Should I not bother and just buy a new valve?
It seems very rebuildable and my plan is just to clean the crud out, paint the bracket and redo the spade terminals with new connectors.One of the valves is not moving at all now.
Here are some shots of the small panel painting with New Ford Grey engine enamel. I'v always found that stuff works really well on metal with no priming, so it's pretty quick. A local store has gloss oil base enamel on sale for 3.50 a quart so I am bringing the washer lid in for a scan and a color match for the dark part of the harvest gold.
Thanks, Rob

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Here's how you can fix up the control panels after you get the major stuff done.

 
performance update

Hi, it's been a couple of months of daily service for my Maytags. I am very happy with the way they look and work. They get a lot of use since we have a toddler in cloth diapers.
The dryer (DE 606) does have an issue with lint getting past the filter, for the most part it all goes past the filter and clogs my outside screen. All the pieces seem to be in place and in good order, no warping, holes, etc... Perhaps the spring is not holding tight enough. I've taken it apart multiple times and can see nothing wrong. I've included some pics, perhaps someone has a suggestion, it must be something very simple that I'm overlooking as there are only 4 parts involved.
Thanks, Rob

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about permanent press setting

I am curious about the recommendation of akronman that the permanent press cycle is a water waster. Is this true with all machines or is that specific to these Maytags. I run my modern Maytag washing machine on permanent press and hope I am not wasting water. What, specifically, does a "permanent press" cycle do?

Thanks so much
 
My mother had one similar,

a 1966 Maytag, looked like this one. My older sister and I were BOTH in cloth diapers and that machine never failed until we were in our teens....16 years it chugged along and was still chugging but started leaking oil so she got a GE filter flo which only lasted 12 years...then she went back to Maytag in 1994..it's still going strong too!
 
I'm not familiar with Maytag PP cycles. If they are anything like Whirlpool/Kenmores BD's they will partially drain and refill with water several times after the wash cycle to help "cool down" the load to help prevent wrinkles. Than it will drain completely do a short spin and go on thru the rest of the cycle.

Or it could possibly be that the washer gives an extended spray rinse between the wash and deep rinse with perhaps a slower spin.

There are a lot of variables that different makes use.
 

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