New member with Maytag A612 problems

[toomanyhobbies]

Hello everyone. I found your site when looking for answers about our 1985 Maytag A612. This came from my wife's grandmother who purchased it new in 1985. She likes it and wants to keep it but I have several issues.

1. I replaced the damper pads with a compatible set from Amazon and used their "silicone compound". I added a little more grease and the washer started creaking/groaning from the pad area. I used some lacquer thinner and removed as much of the grease as I could and that made it better. Am I destined to replace the pads again? Has anyone had luck with the "Compatible" pads or should I get the Whirlpool ones? Which grease do I use? I searched the site and all say to use the grease, but opinions about which grease vary.

2. I have to replace the tub seal every couple years because it wears due to nearly 1/16" of movement in the agitator shaft. I added a couple o-rings above and below the seal and that seems to prolong the replacement interval. I see new shafts will be available soon, but no gear or pin. I have a machinist that can replace the upper bushing. What is the nominal diameter of the seal area? Mine is about 0.732" at this time. I have had no evidence of oil or grease leaking from the top of the transmission.

3. How do I center the tub for the least vibration?

4. What is the proper tension on the 3 springs? Original nut location is long gone.

Thanks for all your help.
K.C.

 

[good-shepherd]

Which grease do I use?

Silicone grease is preferred but I've also used Sil-Glyde with no problems.

What was the condition of the damper surface?

 

[qsd-dan]

Can't help you with the aftermarket damper pads and grease, I've only used genuine Maytag parts. If the aluminum damper kissed the metal base, no amount of grease on new pads or fiddling with the tension springs will achieve proper operation. You'll need a new damper dome. Proper tensioning of the springs is difficult to explain on the internet. The factory states placing a 5 pound weight inside the tub and taking it for a spin. The tub should not go out of balance (too loose tension) but the cabinet should also not vibrate (too tight tension).

 

Play in the agitator shaft is a damaged shaft and sleeve bearings which will require a good used upper transmission housing or a good used transmission. With modern washers being complete POS's, it's certainly worth repairing.

 

[ryner1988]

If you can't find the parts or deem the washer too far-gone/difficult to repair, there's always the TC5 model from Speed Queen. Your wife's grandma would probably like it as it has the long-stroke agitation style the same as her old A612, as well as spin drain and simple operation -- the only buttons on the thing are for deep fill and to start the machine. Everything else is dials. Of course, the price point is steep and a definitely consideration, but it's what I would want for myself if I had to get a new machine. I would also be open to an FL from LG with turbo wash, but I'm guessing her grandma doesn't want to learn a lot of fancy new tech since she's interested in keeping her old Maytag going.

Dan is right though, most new washers are crap. He's also correct in warning you to be careful about after-market parts as a lot of them just won't sit right with the way the machine is supposed to work and their overall quality is just questionable. This washer can be repaired if you have the patience to find mostly NLA parts and the technical know-how to get the job done. I had a Maytag of this era last summer and was only able to keep it for a short time because it started having problems I felt too intimidated by to repair as someone with a visual disability. I now have a used 2005 washer from Whirlpool and have a lot more confidence in keeping it going as my bro-in-law did several repairs on their similar machine and he has indicated that he will complete repairs for me whenever it needs done. But keeping an old washer going these days is a tricky business because parts are disappearing so quickly, which makes sense from an economical perspective. The companies want you to buy their new crap.

 

[toomanyhobbies]

Following up.

Hello again. My damper surfaces are in good condition. New pads are in good condition, but have the wrong grease, so I will need to replace them.

Sorry for the confusion, but we now have the washer as her grandmother passed on many years ago.

I am keeping an eye out for another machine for parts, unless someone here has a long stroke transmission for a reasonable price. I understand I could also swap in an orbital transmission if I replace the agitator too.

Thanks for everyone's help so far.

 

[good-shepherd]

keeping an eye out for another machine

Your time would be better spent rebuilding the machine you have IMO.

Long stroke helical Maytags are few and far between these days.

If you can get a new agitator shaft and have a willing machinist thats half the battle, plus you seem pretty familiar with this machine already.

 

[combo52]

Transmission Problems

I would look for another machine either as a parts donor or just use the entire machine.

We still see these on the scrap pile in pretty good condition every month that often had very low use.

Almost any 30+ YO washer you see these days has had very low use or is very tired, even Maytags do not last 30+ years if they were washing 10+ loads a week.

The reason you often see older MTs around is because a high % of them were purchased by older well off couples where the kids were all ready out of the house etc and they just did not get much use.

John L.

 

[good-shepherd]

still see these on the scrap pile

Long stroke Maytag washers are scarce in my area these days, later orbital trans machines are available however.

"toomanyhobbies" should head over to Combo's scrap pile.

 

[toomanyhobbies]

Looking at another A612...

This machine was purchased when her grandmother was in her 80's, so it was not used hard before we ended up with it.

Found another A612 on Marketplace and will be looking at it tonight. Hopefully the agitator shaft is tight. Seller sent me a pic of serial tag, this one is Sept 1984.

FYI, it's hard to tell which model you are looking at in some of the ads with most fuzzy ad pictures. Apparently the outer shell of the small and large tub models are the same size, and even panels are the same for some such as A312 and A612.

Found what looks like an A412 or A482, but seller isn't responding.

Hoping things work out this evening. If not, where is Combo52's scrap pile?

 

[toomanyhobbies]

Latest update

Found an LA612. Been on FB Marketplace for a month. Got it for $50. It was about 1.5 hours away and we picked it up last night. It's mfg date is Sep 1984 (NR). Has Maytag belts, so they might be original. Overall looks very lightly used. See pictures below. Only took a little cleaning of the inside of the agitator.

I installed and leveled it this morning and the Mrs has done 3 loads already and it's running great with no abnormal sounds and no leaks. Winner!

Figured out I had the wrong date on the original A612. It's a TG (Apr 87?). I plan to harvest parts from the old one and stash them away. Motor, pump, controls, water valve, Maybe the worn transmission and damper. What else should I keep? Everything but the case? Told the Mrs I would have the old one gone within a month.

 

[combo52]

Maytag dependable care washers

Yeah, glad you found a much better machine. There’s still so many of these machines around that they’re really not worth repairing ( major repairs that is )unless you just want a big project.

Hope you get some good use out of this one I would save parts off the old one I’d be careful with the water valve if it’s original they tend to be a part that isn’t very durable in any washer.

John.

 

[good-shepherd]

Good find.

BTW- I always lay the machines on the back side when transporting so any damage won't be seen, same goes when using a hand truck.

As for what parts to save, just about everything that isn't worn out or rusted..

 

[toomanyhobbies]

Thanks...

Thanks for the moving tip. Wish I had thought of that. I did transport on it side to minimize scratching, then I scratched the front while moving it in.

Water valve in the A612 was a replacement, so I will keep it for the future.

Still working good, as I expect it to and the Mrs is happy.

 

[good-shepherd]

then I scratched the front while moving it in.

Hand trucking it on the side risks damaging the front panel squeezing through doorways with the machine sideways at it widest point, i.e. front to back.

 

[circlew]

Avoiding damage

When I worked at a Maytag/Frigidaire dealer the Summer of '77, we had heavy quilted fabric covers we put over the appliances before moving them. Some even had the Maytag logo on them.

Items were left in their carton (unless floor model) for transport in the truck, then usually unboxed and blanketed before carting into the house. This avoided damage not only to the appliance, but door trim and walls.

 

[qsd-dan]

You'll want to address the critical areas on your new machine. Check the motor carriage tracks for cleanliness and plenty of silicone grease, check the condition of the rollers and the springs. You'll also want to check and grease the damper pads or they'll give you trouble in the near future. Remove the pump belt and give the pump pulley a twist. It should turn very easily with no roughness. It can be oiled to extend its life. Wouldn't be a bad idea to throw some new belts on it and meticulously adjust the pump belt tension.

 

[toomanyhobbies]

@qsd-dan Thanks for the checklist. I will get things checked out after I get some silicon grease. How much grease is needed? And what the heck is turbine oil mentioned in the forums and where do I get it?

 

[good-shepherd]

what the heck is turbine oil

It's a light oil for electric motors and such. Supco Zoom Spout is one brand name, but there are others.

Ace Hardware and plumbing supply houses usually stock it.

 

[qsd-dan]

Silicone grease must be the correct viscosity. I tried using a common grease which was a little bit thicker and it caused the motor carriage to hang up and not clutch properly. On the damper pads, it caused the suspension to chatter and no amount of adjustments got it working correctly. Before Whirlpool discontinued it, the genuine Maytag grease was part#204999. Whirlpool has their own grease WP99003172 that is supposed to be a replacement but I've never used it. It's Molykote 111 compound so just buy it outright rather than paying 5 times the price for a Whirlpool part# of the same product. I would personally just get the 205000 spring/glide/grease kit that's still on eBay (these have been discontinued by Whrilpool, better snatch them up while they're still around) and purchase Molykote 111 grease for the damper pads.

 

Pardon Our Interruption...

Pardon Our Interruption...