New Speed Queen Models Coming Soon!

[phillymatt53]

Pierre, I love the video you posted. If everyone was like me every new and used appliance store would look like that. Rows and rows of Heavy Duty EM top load washers.

I'd buy one of those machines if ever my faithful A482 got to the point of beyond repairing.
I liked the one with the variable load size water level.
(And, of course, you know I'd perform my "warm rinse" modification on it lol!!)
THAT is how they should make a damned washing machine!

 

[launderess]

Hopefully I will be able to live long enough to see that last a generation end

Happily for now there are still quite a lot of older used top loading washers with central beaters, many in good to great condition to be found. Online sites such as CL, H-Bid and other places do a brisk business in used top loaders.

Long as spares can be found for these appliances they will have a market. Happily in many stances spares can be found, but that's starting to be come difficult.

Top loading washing machines with central beaters came to dominate USA laundry market because models of old were often quite basic machines. Certainly by 1960's, 1970's or so when many of the exotic variations died out (GM pulsator and such) market was left with often robust but often mechanically simple washers. Yes, there were quibbles regarding performance and such, but overall those units could be kept going for years with some repairs.

 

[DADoES]

just found this video this is what i call a true washer

I noticed that the machine at 2:23 has a serial date of December 2023 (if I'm interpreting it correctly). The narrator says 1) SQs last for "25 or more years with very little maintenance," and that her business "goes through every single machine ... and fully refurbish them and put new parts on them." What new parts are needed on a 2yo SQ?

The machine at 3:17 has serial December 2015, but she says "it's a little bit of a newer model than the other one."

 

[Chetlaham]

I noticed that the machine at 2:23 has a serial date of December 2023 (if I'm interpreting it correctly). The narrator says 1) SQs last for "25 or more years with very little maintenance," and that her business "goes through every single machine ... and fully refurbish them and put new parts on them." What new parts are needed on a 2yo SQ?

The machine at 3:17 has serial December 2015, but she says "it's a little bit of a newer model than the other one."

Judging by how beat up and jabbed in the machine lid is at 2:49 these units may have come out of a very heavy use commercial or hard use on premises environment. It is possible that a new part like a knob, belt, switch, pump, timer, front panel, bleach dispenser, fabric softener dispenser or agitator were needed here and there.

Though it is just a guess as I don't know anything about the history of the machines featured in the video.

You are correct that the machine at 3:17 is from 2015 however minus the normal eco cycle the spacing on the load size selector knob it looks nearly identical to an AWN432 so I could see why see would mistaken it for a model that has been out since at least 2010.

 

[Chetlaham]

I'd buy one of those machines if ever my faithful A482 got to the point of beyond repairing.
I liked the one with the variable load size water level.
(And, of course, you know I'd perform my "warm rinse" modification on it lol!!)
THAT is how they should make a damned washing machine!

In a perfect world you would be able to buy one of these, brand new, built nearly identical to your dependable care.

Also no need for a warm rinse modification, Heavy Duty and Normal provide a warm rinse.

 

[Chetlaham]

Don't have a dog in this hunt, only top loading washer owns with central beater is vintage Maytag WW.

That being said people should give SQ credit where due if for nothing else their attempts to keep a dying niche appliance alive.

Top loading washing machines with central beaters died out in rest of world for some very good reasons. Outside of USA and perhaps few other places they are difficult to find.

It has been known since early part of prior century that h-axis washers deliver a better result with less wear on fabrics than top loading with central beaters. This is largely behind why early commercial/industrial "steam laundries" out of the gate went with h-axis washers.

Suppose energy regulations for laundry appliances are a debatable point, but never the less they exist and as such days of top loading washers with central beaters are clearly numbered. One suspects in another generation or so top loading washers with central beaters will have largely vanished from North American market.

Launderess, you are 100% correct. However I feel US front loaders lack two ingredients for success in the United States: Enzyme detergents that work in stages and onboard heaters activated in each cycle.

These two have made front loads a success elsewhere and make just as much sense in the United States if front load technology is to compete with vintage top load washers.

 

[launderess]

Judging by how beat up and jabbed in the machine lid is at 2:49 these units may have come out of a very heavy use commercial or hard use on premises environment. It is possible that a new part like a knob, belt, switch, pump, timer, front panel, bleach dispenser, fabric softener dispenser or agitator were needed here and there.

Though it is just a guess as I don't know anything about the history of the machines featured in the video.

You are correct that the machine at 3:17 is from 2015 however minus the normal eco cycle the spacing on the load size selector knob it looks nearly identical to an AWN432 so I could see why see would mistaken it for a model that has been out since at least 2010.

Newport News, Virginia and surrounding area has lots of US military/defence bases and also housing. There is also shipbuilding, coal and railroads. In short no small amount of multi-family or whatever housing which would have on premises laundry facilties.

Alliance Laundry is a huge contract supplier to US military both in States and abroad of laundry equipment. In keeping with how freely US government departments/agencies spend US ratepayer's money it is not unheard of for appliances barely a few years old to be packed up and sold as *surplus*, this often for pennies on dollar. Even NIB machines that never were used or installed are offloaded in same manner.

Enterprising persons have long known about and work the military surplus auctions or other sales. Massive job lots of all sorts can be had for very little money, which in turn can be marked up and sold on for profit.

Will bet the egg money those SQ appliances came from military housing or whatever. Appliance dealer is selling units for about $500, even they paid $200 per machine (including fetching and other costs) they still will make out fine.

 

[qsd-dan]

I liked the one with the variable load size water level.

You can transform your current washer into a variable water level model by installing a 206223 water pressure switch that was used on the 512/612/712 washers. It's a direct swap.

 

[johnb300m]

If everyone was like me every new and used appliance store would look like that. Rows and rows of Heavy Duty EM top load washers.

See Chet, this is what you never seem to understand when you say this constantly.
You’re taking MY choice away. I will then be forced to buy washers on the market only vetted by you, his majesty.

Another thing, you want a washer that uses 1500 watts every cycle?
I have a gas dryer that shares the breaker with the washer. Is your magical government going to subsidize me running a new breaker line to my laundry room so I can run both at the same time? Or is that on MY dime?

Am I also to pay for running this 1500w washer now, when doing laundry, especially now that my electric bill looks like a hockey stick?
Do I now also HAVE to use 30-40gal of water a load? That’s expensive too when my private profit driven water supply company charges me 2x for water what the public city charges just .5mi away….

These things cut both ways, boss.
People gripe that efficiency mandates cost people money. Well your INefficiency mandates will cost me even more.

 

[phillymatt53]

You can transform your current washer into a variable water level model by installing a 206223 water pressure switch that was used on the 512/612/712 washers. It's a direct swap.

Dan, my A482 Maytag's already got a 4 button water level switch.
Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large.
And if you press down on the Extra Large button, you can add a bit more water too.
(the "warm rinse" button is my recent modification)

 

[DADoES]

P/N 206223 is a slider switch that's fully variable between lowest and highest vs. four discrete levels. Manual overfill can be had by holding it at the upper Reset position.

Signed: Goofy Glenn

 

[phillymatt53]

P/N 206223 is a slider switch that's fully variable between lowest and highest vs. four discrete levels. Manual overfill can be had by holding it at the upper Reset position.

Signed: Goofy Glenn

That's cool, however my 4-level settings are fine for me.
I know how much I'll need for a particular load.
I'm not that concerned or picky over water levels.

 

[appnut]

Well, I have liked only INFINITE choice since our 1963/1964 Norge DispensoMat washer. We always had models with infinite water l;evels from that point forwawrd.

 

[appledude1]

What are you even on about? Touchscreens? Only the upper trim appliances have touchscreens. Most models have touch pads and knobs still. Even though they are electronic now. Most people are not demanding touchscreens. If anything, most people want touchscreens to go away or get smaller, especially in automotive. Companies will start to respond to that soon.

You guys need to go outside and touch grass.

Did you consider that MAYBE he was thinking about touchscreens in the same way as touchpads and other electronic crap? The thought remains the same - don't get caught up on being so technical - think about what the other person is trying to say. Even on models with "knobs" are they durable as in my old appliances - or are they still relying on expensive delicate circuitry behind the scenes? I took the time and aggravation to have my GE Dishwasher repaired - as when I have worked on it, which I have had to do very rarely, it is built like a tank, and parts last a really long time. I also would be hesitant to replace my old Frigidaire front-loader 1040, and had my GE spacemaker electric dryer cleaned and serviced - needed only a pulley I believe - and I bought that USED so many years ago - compare that to my GE CafeCouture countertop air fryer/convection oven - which I love - BUT - I asked GE how to replace the LED light bulb in the oven if it fails - you CAN'T - if the LED light bulb fails, you replace the oven, or do without the light. Not acceptable on a fairly expensive appliance. And do LED bulbs fail? YES - particularly they don't do well in ovens - it doesn't matter how LONG they are SUPPOSED to last -

 

[Chetlaham]

See Chet, this is what you never seem to understand when you say this constantly.
You’re taking MY choice away. I will then be forced to buy washers on the market only vetted by you, his majesty.

Nope. Because the appliance stores in addition to rows of old fashioned top loads would also have sections with front load washers of various kinds, Calypso style top loads, Neptune rotating disk type top loads, twin tubs, portables, compacts and various laundry alternative with semi automatic and non automatic machines. There would actually be more selection, a lot more, not less.

Another thing, you want a washer that uses 1500 watts every cycle?

I think the disagreements that we have stems entirely over selective reading and selective interpretation of information.

I used the term watt hours, not watts. Big difference. Watts is the amount of energy used in one second, watt hours is the total amount of energy used over a given period of time.

To address your question the point that I was trying to make the legal limits for maximum water and energy consumption per load would be a LOT higher than it is today.

It doesn't mean manufacturers have to build a machine that uses 1500 watt hours or 40 gallons of water per cycle, just that they can legally do so if they wanted to.

I have a gas dryer that shares the breaker with the washer. Is your magical government going to subsidize me running a new breaker line to my laundry room so I can run both at the same time? Or is that on MY dime?

You do realize that a washer drawing 500 watts continuously for 3 hours is is the same as a washer drawing 1500 watts continuously for 1 hour?

But to answer your question you have the freedom to choose a washer and dryer where their combined current draw does not exceed 20 amps at 120 volts.

Am I also to pay for running this 1500w washer now, when doing laundry, especially now that my electric bill looks like a hockey stick?

You are free to choose a washer with the water and energy use you think are appropriate for you as much as I should be able to chose a washer with the energy requirements that I think are appropriate for me.

Do I now also HAVE to use 30-40gal of water a load? That’s expensive too when my private profit driven water supply company charges me 2x for water what the public city charges just .5mi away….

Nope, you can choose a machine that uses 15 gallons of water per cycle. There are people who shop on energy and water use alone so there would be manufacturers out there catering to that.

These things cut both ways, boss.
People gripe that efficiency mandates cost people money. Well your INefficiency mandates will cost me even more.

Right, they do go both ways. Except in your world, the one I am living in right now, you can buy an new HE front load, however I can't buy a new 40 gallon top load.

Machines that break down in 5 years cost society more in the long run than something which lasts 30 years.

 

[phillymatt53]

Did you consider that MAYBE he was thinking about touchscreens in the same way as touchpads and other electronic crap? The thought remains the same - don't get caught up on being so technical - think about what the other person is trying to say. Even on models with "knobs" are they durable as in my old appliances - or are they still relying on expensive delicate circuitry behind the scenes? I took the time and aggravation to have my GE Dishwasher repaired - as when I have worked on it, which I have had to do very rarely, it is built like a tank, and parts last a really long time. I also would be hesitant to replace my old Frigidaire front-loader 1040, and had my GE spacemaker electric dryer cleaned and serviced - needed only a pulley I believe - and I bought that USED so many years ago - compare that to my GE CafeCouture countertop air fryer/convection oven - which I love - BUT - I asked GE how to replace the LED light bulb in the oven if it fails - you CAN'T - if the LED light bulb fails, you replace the oven, or do without the light. Not acceptable on a fairly expensive appliance. And do LED bulbs fail? YES - particularly they don't do well in ovens - it doesn't matter how LONG they are SUPPOSED to last -

Good post there, Dennis!
Speaking about bulbs burning out, I have a 2003 Sharp Carousel microwave.
I love the thing, but a couple of years ago, the light bulb inside burned out.
I need to see if anything is boiling over through the tinted door window.
So... upon opening it up, the 15 watt 120v bulb is a hard-wired type!
No lamp socket! - I'd have to order a whole lamp assembly, cord and all.
SO...... I snipped the bulb out, installed a dual terminal bayonet bulb socket and popped in a new bayonet 15 watt bulb, now easily replaceable.
And I've got spare bulbs if I ever need to replace it again.

 

[Chetlaham]

I remember when I found an old JCPenney single knob microwave built from around 1985 it actually had a small access cover and phillips screw on the left side of the oven that you could open up and change out the bulb.

Mind you, this was an absolute BOL bargain oven at a discount store. It didn't have a turn table and the stirrer was actually propelled by the cooling air coming from the magnetron. Yet despite all its cheapness was meant to be kept in service.

Today even my Commercial Sharp doesn't have an access door for the light bulb. How things have shockingly changed.

 

[phillymatt53]

I remember when I found an old JCPenney single knob microwave built from around 1985 it actually had a small access cover and phillips screw on the left side of the oven that you could open up and change out the bulb.

Mind you, this was an absolute BOL bargain oven at a discount store. It didn't have a turn table and the stirrer was actually propelled by the cooling air coming from the magnetron. Yet despite all its cheapness was meant to be kept in service.

Today even my Commercial Sharp doesn't have an access door for the light bulb. How things have shockingly changed.

You'd have to do what I did, Chet.
Get a 2-pin bayonet socket, wire it in, and pop in a replaceable bulb.
They come in 15 watt and 25 watt types.
Used in older upright vacuums as a headlight.

 

[Chetlaham]

These are my type of appliance bulbs:



I prefer intermediate over bayonet, simply because these are more common around here.


I miss the 90s/early 2000s lighting isles found in grocery stores and home centers. They had every type of light bulb imaginable that would be needed for a home. Par38 halogen capsule floods for the outdoor spots, extra soft white A-19s as a reading light, A19 GE utility bulb for the laundry room, A21 150 and 200 watt for the basement sockets, post light, yellow bug lights, BR 40 120 watt for the kitchen, BR40 65 watt floods for the hall, BR 30 65 watt spot for the front hall, A-19 pink accent bulb for the bedroom, G40 globe the stained glass hanging lights in the bar and dining area, G30 globe for the bathroom vanity, F15T12, F15T8, F20T12, F40T12 fluorescent tubes of various color temperatures for the over the sink pre-heat fixture and rapid start shop-light. Various bent, twisted and round tip candelabra base decorative bulbs for the chandelier and foyer fixtures, 150 T3 halogen tubes for the wall sconces, 300 watt halogen the the living room torch light, 500 watt for the outdoor halogen garage light, 12 volt 20 watt and 50 watt bi-pin halogens for the desk lights, bipin 12 volt MR11 halogens for the track spot lights, various 12 volt halogen PARs for the low voltage picture track lights, long filament tube bulb for the stand light, 3 way 30/70/100, 50/100/150 15/100/115 bulbs, glass bowl bulbs, circle fluorescent for the pantry light, traditional A19s of 25, 40, 60, 75, 100 watts for general use fixtures, C7 4 and 7 watt night lights, A16 15 watt night table lamp bulb, A16 40 watt appliance and ceiling fan, frosted rough service 7 support filament light bulb... And that is just the half that I remember off the top of my head. All in various life, wattage, color, lumen, focal and light distribution options. All in store for every light in the home.

Each bulb was specifically designed to excel in a specific lighting application, complimenting a particular fixture, both together exactly excelling at the lighting needs of a specific location. Homes in the 90s were lit like palaces and every light set a mood, emotion and conscious state for each location an activity, job, task or leisure took place. Warm, saccharine, glowing, yet uplifting and living in the moment. The emotions can not be described unless experienced and felt in that moment.


Today, all of it is gone. Just LED lights that are sterile, flat, painful and migraine inducing.

 

[pierreandreply4]

what ever happen to the golden age of washers where you simply set the washer let it do the cycle while you do something else like working the yard or cleaning the kitchen or simply running errands where you could stop pause the machines letting the clothes soak in hot water detergent letting the detergent enzymwork its magic to get rid of the stain and when back simply restart the washer to let it finish the cycle then off to the dryer or line dry no checking on the washer or worrying will something happen video is a referance now these days most detergents are formulated for cold water wash

 

[DADoES]

Just LED lights that are sterile, flat, painful and migraine inducing.

Interesting. I've not yet caught a headache of any type related to the numerous LED bulbs in my house dating as far back as eleven years. I'm apparently immune to the effect?

 

[DADoES]

what ever happen to the golden age of washers where you simply set the washer let it do the cycle while you do something else like working the yard or cleaning the kitchen or simply running errands where you could stop pause the machines letting the clothes soak in hot water detergent letting the detergent enzymwork its magic to get rid of the stain and when back simply restart the washer to let it finish the cycle then off to the dryer or line dry no checking on the washer or worrying will something happen

I do that often with the four newfangled electronic-erized washers that are my primary usage machines. They all have options for soaking. Three of them provide for a soak (maximum of 2 hrs) that inserts halfway into the wash period, no need to monitor/restart.

 

[Chetlaham]

Interesting. I've not yet caught a headache of any type related to the numerous LED bulbs in my house dating as far back as eleven years. I'm apparently immune to the effect?

You're immune. I think you're lucky. The light isn't causing you strain and stress like it does for me. Everyone is different, hence the need for different options in the market even if those options might cost a bit more in the long run.

 

[Chetlaham]

what ever happen to the golden age of washers where you simply set the washer let it do the cycle while you do something else like working the yard or cleaning the kitchen or simply running errands where you could stop pause the machines letting the clothes soak in hot water detergent letting the detergent enzymwork its magic to get rid of the stain and when back simply restart the washer to let it finish the cycle then off to the dryer or line dry no checking on the washer or worrying will something happen video is a referance now these days most detergents are formulated for cold water wash

Pierre, thank you for posting that video! The time stamp 16:50 is very sagacious, demonstrating how top load agitator washers could have been kept in production to this day using less water while providing superior rinsing results. The spray rinse is two minutes long. At the start of the deep rinse, the water is crystal clear. The two minutes of spray rinsing might actually be sufficient enough to do away with the deep rinse altogether. This would benefit the machine too in addition to producing a shorter cycle.

Ideally, I would do something like this with that Westinghouse washer if I could re-design the timer:

Fill

Wash 13 minutes

Spin 3 minutes

Spray 1 minute

Spin 3 minutes

Spray 1 minute

Spin 5 minutes

OFF

This I think would be an optimal normal cycle.

I also like the option of a warm rinse and the temperature division on the control panel.