New to this board with a long history of Miele

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support AutomaticWasher.org:

bfordmn

New member
Joined
Jan 1, 2026
Messages
3
Hello,

I am new to this board, but have read a lot here over the years, being entertained and informed, so thank you.

I have been an avid Miele owner of many appliances since about 1989. We built our house in the late 1980's and installed Miele cooking hobs (2-gas cooktops, 1-grill and 1-downdraft), a single 24" oven and a dishwasher in the kitchen. I bought all of these at extreme discounts from a kitchen showroom that was closing down in our area. Around that time I also found a used Miele W&D set (only used about 5-years, IIRC). I wish I could remember the model number (maybe W765), but both had the mechanical timers and had brown(!) control panels. I got the pair for $450 (really almost no one knew anything about Miele at the time). The original owner said they were around $4000 new in 1985 or so. More on laundry below.

Now, about 35-years later, we are still using the original hobs, but have replaced the oven and dishwasher. Our original oven and dishwasher were still going strong, but we we decided to make the move to black appliances around 2005, so we changed them out at that time. Other than changing out light bulbs in the oven, we haven't had any issues with it. Latest dishwasher (G851SC) Novotronic Turbothermic (IMO, the last of the great Miele Dishwashers) had one issue with a capacitor that I was able to repair with help from Miele's wonderful tech support department at the time (2018?, RIP!).

The used washer and dryer were mostly trouble free. I do recall the plastic squirrel cage, centrifugal blower effectively exploding on the dryer. Again, Miele technical support came through (probably) around 1995 with a replacement part shipped at no charge! What finally brought the pair to their demise was an issue with the mechanical timer on the washer. I do not recall the exact issue, but it had to do with the time not advancing. Anyway with my overly confident, I-can-repair-anything attitude, I starting disassembling it. I recall that I did find the issue, but putting it back together brought me to my knees (it was hopeless). I probably could have bought a new timer somewhere, but our family was growing and the smallish drum size was starting to prove challenging. Time for a new set.

Lucky for us, a local appliance dealer was clearing out the last of the 19XX series and I got W1986 and T1576 for around $1,800. As mentioned above, my wife always thought the previous set was too small for our growing family, so the larger size made the sale. Had Miele not introduced these slightly larger units, we would have been forced to move on from Miele laundry. Little did I realize at that this W&D would be some of the last and most robust and flexible sets they would sell in the US. This set has been serving us trouble-free for the last nearly 25-years. I do think I replaced the brushes on the motor about 10-years ago, but otherwise nothing. Based on the service menu, we have about 9500-hours on the washer, which works out to about 8-hours a week - sounds about right.

Although this W/D may last us forever (early 60's now), I am always on the lookout for a replacement set. Just last week I found a WP6065 Plus Little Giant washer for $250 and bought it. It was made in 2014 and the original owner had only used it for about 5- or 6-years. I am not sure if the WP's are more robust than the 1986, but since they are sold as "Professional", I am hoping they are at least as robustly made. They did not have the shipping struts, but the struts from my existing 1986 fit, so there must be some similarities.

I have not been able to power it up yet, due to the difference in the plugs and electrical requirement. The 1986 runs on a 240V, 20A circuit (two 1300W heaters = 2600W), where the PW6065 needs a 240V, 30A circuit for about twice the heater rating (5300W total). I do plan to partially test it on the 20A circuit with a cold water wash, but I still need to change the plug or temporarily hardwire it.

I read on this board or somewhere else that someone had disconnected one of the two heater legs, reducing the total amperage to about 2600W. I would still be concerned about using it on a 20A circuit, because each heater may be directly wired to one of the two legs of the 240V circuit. In other words, the amps are not shared across the two legs, but each heater is wired to one leg and, thereby, overloading the one leg that is still connected.

There also appears to be heater rating programmable function (Descriptive Technical Documentation), allowing the user to downgrade the heater in steps from 5300W to 2100W. Worst case scenario would be rewiring the outlet with 10-2. It is strange that my older 1986 required a 4-prong plug/receptacle, where the newer, 6065 only need a 3-wire plug. I think it has something to do with the older models were setup to use common US dryer receptacles and one of the plug legs was effectively unused on the Miele's due to the way they are grounded.. More research to be done.
 
It's somewhat surprising the rods did fit - but that's honestly nothing I ever thought of checking.
The drum size should be pretty similar - the 6065 is 65l, I think the deeper machines before that were aswell?

The PW6065 should - as far as I know - have 2 240 V heaters.
Here in Europe/Germany, these runs 400V 2N, so 2 phases, 1 neutral, and 400V across both phases, or 230ish phase to neutral. If you run the single phase, one heater is disconnected.
I would be surprised if Miele didn't go the easy way and just put them into parallel and used the same heaters as in the EU.
That's maybe also why they don't use 4 prong outlet? Most stuff in the PW6065 should run on 240V, so any current going to neutral would be "fault current" and trip the breakers? Or maybe I'm misunderstanding the US 240V system in that regard.

The setting is to adjust programming. I think running them on single phase adds about 20min onto each cycle.

Personally, if you have the option at all, get it hooked up to full power. There's nothing like boilwashing in sub 90min for 14lbs of laundry.


I have a H7364BP oven and a KM7667 hob.
I love the oven - the perfect balance between quick set & forget for daily tasks and all the features for specific occasions. And the steam assisted bakeing is amazing - I use it more often than one thinks.
The full surface induction is mid at best though. Sometimes, I have visibly uneven heating in pots or pans if not placed correctly - completely negating the use of full surface induction. Going for the same UI with a cooking sensor model would probably be more useful.


I also have a a pretty early G7100 DW.
If I did not get it half price, I would be very disappointed.
It's very efficient and cleans ok. But it's not the quickest on most cycles, neither the quietest, nor the best dryer...
 
The neutral on our dryers, ovens, ranges is usually only to run timers, motors, lights. Most of our two pole breakers aren't GFI, so they're not bothered by current that returns through neutral. Even with the NEC changing every year or so, the bulk of our (older) wiring is pretty archaic. You'll still find 70 year old disconnect switch boxes with fuses for water pumps, heaters, and dryers in our basements...
 
That's kind of what I assumed.
On PW6065, basically everything should be 240V - so any current would go phase to phase.
So any current going to neutral would do so through an unintended path - which is usually some kind of short. And that short would then trip any over current protection.

But I admit the simple fact that US industrial applications are more likely to just have the older standard and probably less requirements for GFCI protections is more likely...
 
Thanks to all that responded. Sorry for my delay, but I have just now had time to drag the new machine into the basement from the garage to hook it up. I also needed a way to convert the wiring on the PW (NEMA L6-30) to work with my receptacle (NEMA 14-30) which is already installed for my W1986. Given the circuit is only 20-amp, as I mentioned above, I have limited my testing to cold water only and menu manipulation. I found a simple adapter plug on Amazon and attached an image. It is amazing how many different combinations are available either as adapter plugs or pigtail adapters. This adapter worked perfectly and simply and allowed me to power it up.

It came up just fine and all seems to be working as it should. I was able to get into two of the somewhat hidden menus. The first and simplest is the "Supervisor" menu, which can be accessed from the main menu under settings with the code 0 0 0. There seems to be very little in this menu other than date, display brightness and suds cooling options.

I was also able to access the "Service" menu by a short set of quick button pushes in a timely manner. This menu is primarily, as the name suggests, for service technicians, giving them direct access to fault codes and the ability to test run individual components. However, it also will display total hours of usage, which I really want to know. It has about 3,100-hours, which is roughly a third of the hours I currently have on my W1986. I attached an image of this as well.

I do want to get into the "Programming" menu, which, as I understand it, requires one to unplug the R30 connector (suds temperature sensor) from the ELP. So far, I have been unable to determine which connector is the R30 and the manuals I have reviewed have not been good and describing the location other than R30. I am not seeing any markings on the ELP board. I have a rough idea where the sensor itself sits at the bottom of the tub, but I have not yet opened the front of the machine so, if I can positively identify it, I could trace the wires back to the ELP and unplug it.

I have attached a few images of the top of the machine, so if anyone knows which connector is R30, I would appreciate knowing.

Finally, once I had played around with all of the menus, I then hooked up the water lines and tried a couple of simple programs (Extra rinse, Drain/spin and a short cold wash cycle) and all cycles appeared to work as they should, including filling, agitating, draining and spinning. Before I try any programs with hot water, I need to solve the potential of this machine to overload the 20amp circuit. I may also just wait until I need to put it into full service if I can't get into the program menu to reduce the heater draw. I feel less comfortable disconnecting one to the two heaters as this point, since I really don't need the machine right now.

Also, in playing with the standard programs, it was not clear to me how I would add extra minutes of soaking to the prewash. On the W1986, it is so easy to simply press the Soak button to add soaking at 30-minute increments. That soaking is where I typically add some bleach to white loads and let them soak for an additional 30- to 60-minutes. Soaking takes no more water and very little additional energy, since the machine is mostly idle with short, alternately reversed agitation about every couple of minutes.

Thanks again!
 

Attachments

  • 5458.jpg
    5458.jpg
    993.5 KB
  • 5459.jpg
    5459.jpg
    1.2 MB
  • 5455.jpg
    5455.jpg
    1.8 MB
  • 5457.jpg
    5457.jpg
    1.6 MB
Ok, so I was able to use the wiring diagram that was under to the top lid to locate the suds temperature sensor and it presented a very clear connection point for the R30 connection to the EPL board. Once that was disconnected, I was able to get into the entire programming mode. Scrolling a long way down, I got to the programmable heating element. Surprisingly, it was not on the highest setting, which is 5300W, but was set at 4200W. Either of these should be handled by a 30-amp circuit. I changed the setting to 2600W, so it would not trip my 20-amp circuit.

Once changed, I ran load with the temp set to 140 and it did not trip the breaker. Then I ran it with the temp set to 200 and it also did not trip. So, I have concluded that the "software" max wattage setting did in fact limit the amperage to less than 20.

Interestingly, I canceled the 200 wash after about 15-minutess (still about 35 minutes remaining) and it drained the tub, but I could not open the door as the machine indicated that the door was locked. I thought I might not have properly reconnect the R30 plug, which prevents the door switch from functioning. It turns out I had connected it properly, but if the suds temperature sensor shows too high of a temp, for safety reasons, will not allow the door to open even if there are no clothes in the washer. I let it sit locked and checked every few minutes and after about ten or fifteen minutes, the door unlocked. I ran another 200 load and immediately ran a rinse afterward (which is cold and happens if you run a normal, non-interrupted cycle) and the opened right away.

So it looks like all the functions of the washer work as they should. I did take a risk buying it after being shipped 1700 miles without struts and sitting in a non-temperature controlled storage unit for two Minnesota winters (who knows what damage could be done with frozen water in the discharge pump, for example). It is an amazing washer for $250
 
Sounds like you’ve had a great selection of Miele appliances over the years!

I’m under the impression that the programming menu allows you to tell the control board what the machine’s heater rating is (perhaps for cycle-time calculations, etc.), but that this is purely to inform the machine what hardware is installed. I didn’t think you could make any actual change to the heating power via the programming menu.

I’ve owned Miele washers with programming menus that offer several heater power settings, but my understanding is that the actual heating power is determined by the heaters that are physically installed and connected, and cannot be changed through software. The Little Giants and other commercial machines might be different, so I’m not entirely sure. I do know that at least some Miele dishwashers have a programming option to select between 18-inch-wide and 24-inch-wide models, but changing that setting obviously won’t cause the dishwasher to physically shrink or grow by six inches 😄.

I would guess that your machine proobably does have a heating power of 4.2 kW, since that’s what it was originally set to. My suspicion is that changing the setting from 4.2 to 2.6 kW simply tells the machine how quickly it should expect the water to heat, while the actual heating power remains 4.2 kW.

If your machine is drawing 4,200 W for heating, that works out to about 17.5 amps. I’m aware of the widely misunderstood 80% rule for continuous loads, but in this case a properly installed 20-amp circuit should not trip or overheat under normal conditions and will be more than capable of supplying 17.5 Amps (plus a bit more when it tumbles) for as long as it takes to heat the water, which won't be long at all when you have a small, highly efficient machine that is filling with hot water and then heating at a rate of 4.2 kW. Even if the heating power of your machine is 5.3 kW (which it may well be, or at least have provision for 5.3 kW), that is only 22 Amps and it would likely take a very long time for a 20-Amp breaker to trip, if it even trips at all.

I think you should be able to change the heating power by opening up the machine and disconnecting or reconnecting some or all of the heating elements. Hopefully others will chime in and shed some additional light on this.

Mark
 
Last edited:
I was under the same impression, too.
The programming settings only change cycle parameters to more accurately estimate cycle time. It will always switch on all heater relays available.
Most cycles - especially on these very fast commercial units - are designed with very specific heating times in mind. And 10min additional heating time in a 50min cycle is a significant change. Thus the setting option.
And of course cycle supervision. There are emergency heating time-outs which of course have to be set shorter with a higher heating power. (Those for example come into play when NTCs have weird faults where they display correct temps up to a point and then don't change anymore. Know of at least 2 cases on 80-90s Mieles where that has happened.)

And I have to agree: It's unlikely your breaker would trip with "just" 10% over current rating.
Really depends on the specific breaker characteristics - a time/current curve is usually readily available.
Given the heating times (You have a hot water connection, right?) I don't even think it would be a big issue. But if it had to do cold to 200F with a full load (maybe 30min at 4.2kW), I would be somewhat hesitant to just do that. But with a hot connection, most heating is done in less than 20min.


I think 4.2kW could be reasonable. There could be quite weird heater ratings in the US given commercial equipment in the US has to basically be dual voltage with either 208V or 240V.

What I can say for almost absolutely certain is that each heater should run on 2xxV.
In the EU, such powerful equipment typically runs on 400V 2 phase + neutral (400V 2~ N) and can be run on 230V single phase by just disconnecting one heater. Each heater sees just 1 phase and thus 2xxV.
There is basically no reason for Miele to design new controls, heaters and other components for the US if they have almost the same voltage available anyway. Changing up the wiring in turn would probably be significantly cheaper.
Means each of your heaters will see the full 240V. Thus, just disconnecting one heater should get you to half heating power.
 
Back
Top