Newly installed '60s gas Magic Chef burners won't light!

[davidatlas]

Finally coming to the end of my kitchen renovation -- after months of cleaning and toiling my mid-1960s turquoise gas Magic Chef 30" range has been installed. I've lit the stove pilots, but the burners won't light (unless I take a match to them). When they are on, the flame is very low. I'm afraid that perhaps this unit was used with propane before and that's why the pressure is too low?

We initially installed it with a regulator (it did not have one when I got it) and I thought that might be the problem, but alas, direct connection to the natural gas and the same issue. It's all of the burners, not just one. I'm hoping I can just make adjustments to get it working right -- but I don't know the model # (the serial plate was destroyed) and don't have a manual or anything to go off of.

Going to call my plumber in but hoping ya'll might have an idea!!

 

[wayupnorth]

It more than likely is converted to propane now as that is why your flames are so low. If a natural gas stove is hooked to propane, you would have 6 inch tall pilot lights, so your stove will need to be converted to natural gas.

 

[davidatlas]

Getting warmer...

OK, you are right it was used with propane before. I found that the orifices are adjustable and was able to get the flame height up to the right levels!! Still won't light when i turn the knobs, however... I'm not sure if there is a second pilot at the burners that might need adjustment as well? or if the pilots themselves need to be adjusted?

 

[wayupnorth]

The flash tube from the standing pilot lights that pilot you indicated and then lights the burner when that burner is turned on.

 

[rp2813]

You lucked out with adjustable orifices!

 

It appears that your stove uses the flash tube design for its pilots.   With that system, there shouldn't be another pilot so close to the burner AFAIK.  Make sure the tubes are clear and no spiders have set up shop inside them at some point in the past. 

 

The pilot flames may need to be adjusted a bit higher, if possible.  My experience with flash tube pilots is that they're hit and miss.  Sometimes you have to fan the burner to get it to light, or you might have to keep one of those blow torch igniters or a long stemmed lighter handy.  The wretched, supposedly gourmet cooktop that came with our new house has squirrelly burners that don't easily light even with electronic ignition.

 

[justjunque]

Clogged tubes

Ralph, that's exactly what I was thinking too.
There are spiders that love setting up housekeeping in those things.
And, depending on where the stove has been stored, it could even be some other type of critter.
Mud daubers perhaps?
Worth a look.

Barry

 

[davidatlas]

Almost there....

Thank you gentlemen! I think the pilots are lower than they should be... If I hold the lighter to the pilot and turn on a burner, it works. I think the adjustment for all of the pilots might be somewhere around the oven knob on this one....

The photo attached shows the two pilot feed tubes and where they connect to another feed that's connected to the gas-line at the oven control... I tried turning that one flathead adjustment but it didn't affect the pilots (guessing that's the oven flame control).

So close!

 

[rp2813]

I would think that if there was an adjustment for the pilots, it would be on that piece where the two pilot supply tubes connect.

 

Maybe the openings for the pilot flames have become constricted.  You could try to clean them with a short length of thin piano type wire.

 

[goatfarmer]

There usually is an adjustment on the pilot lights. Sometimes it is in the line that feeds them, or maybe in the pilot assembly itself.

Also, you will have to adjust the oven burner if it was used on LP gas.

 

[norgeway]

i wish i was closer

I loved adjusting and working on these, its really easy if you understand what does what...

 

[jeff_adelphi]

Burner orifices need adjusting-

If the range was used on propane before you will need to open up the burner orifices. The orifice is in the nipple on the back of each burner valve that the burners connect to. Using a 1/2" open end wrench loosen the nipple a little at a time until you get a proper flame size at each burner, you may need to also adjust the air shutter on each burner until you get a proper blue flame. You may need to adjust the oven orifice also down by the burner.

 

[davidatlas]

Now we're cookin!

I found a beautifully simple pilot-flame-height adjustment screw directly on each pilot (sometimes bright lighting really does the trick) and now all but one are lighting correctly!!

Going to try cleaning the last one. While poking at it I found that the burner cap will rotate -- are these supposed to screw off??? They're totally filthy so I'd be thrilled to remove them for a scouring (or if they still exist --- replacement!)

And then onto the oven pilot *fingers crossed*

 

[goatfarmer]

If you pull the temp knob off, there might be an adjustment on the thermostat itself. It is a screw, and may be marked L/P-NAT.

 

[davidatlas]

Still no oven pilot!

Yes there is an adjustment screw behind the temperature knob, however I don't believe it's the only thing I need to adjust to switch the oven back to natural gas pressure. It certainly adjusts the pilot pressure a bit, but not enough to get it to take! If I turn on the gas I'm able to light the oven burner, although the flames are a little low, (Because I need to adjust the main orifice?). Have probably spent a few hours trying to find the right adjustment. There's a thumbscrew in the supply line to the oven but that only seems to turn 90 degrees -- on and off...

Anyway, I'm itching to use this oven again and haven't had luck finding a local repairperson...

 

[oliger]

I have a very similar range I am having the same issue with. https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?78155_2 You may be able to find information on my last post. If you have the same plate with extra orifices, that will help you. As for low gas pressure, you can light them, and turn the big bolt on the back of each valve slowly loose, and this will give you more pressure if it was connected to LP gas.

 

[davidatlas]

Hi Oliger, Mine actually has adjustable orifices -- the main-gas orifice for each burner is adjustable, so a few turns with the wrench got 'em in shape -- as for the burner pilots they all had set-screws that made them a cinch to adjust.

I suspect my oven orifice/valve is also adjustable (without the use of different orifices) but I just don't know where to adjust!

 

[oliger]

Mine has no thermocouple up top, but on the oven I have to hold a flame there for at least 20 seconds to keep it lit, so make sure that isn't your problem. There may be one on the pilot its self behind the broiler. What do you mean by adjustable orifices? The same ones I pictured in my post? How did you adjust them. Also, my pilot has the small screw under to adjust it like you described. I believe there were 3 different models back then, basic like yours, and mine was a higher up one with the backlit panel, "Magitrol" burner, automatic cook and warm oven, and chrome top. I have an advertisement for these somewhere.

 

[davidatlas]

Thanks Oliger, I think yours may be a later model. Mine had the "Red Wheel" oven knob (until my contractor threw away all the knobs!! >__<) -- I believe it's from around the same time as my fridge ~ 1963.

I'm able to turn the oven on and manually light the pilot -- after 30 seconds or so the safety mech will light the burners, albeit the flames are bit low.

I've attached a photo of the oven's safety pilot / burner assembly. Anyone know where I can adjust the orifice for the oven burner? Or if there are any other adjustments for pilot that would need to be made (to convert this back over to NG)

So close!!!

 

[goatfarmer]

There should be an orifice at the top of the gas valve. Adjust with a wrench, similar to the burners.