One from the Ogden 'project list' - 1947 Bendix coming back to life

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turquoisedude

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I had really wanted to clear up some of my 'project backlog' of machines waiting to be restored this summer and I just happened to start messing around with this Bendix J47 automatic washer that I had not done much with since I got it.  It turned out it suffered from 'black timer motor' death and I've been trying to find a suitable replacement motor for this timer (and a few other machines).  Well, I decided to take a chance and try replacing the old Ingraham motor with the motor from the timer of the '67 Whirlpool washer that donated it's body to save my '66 Inglis.  Initially, the timer motor seemed to work but I kept hearing a 'ticking' noise from the timer.  So I took off the escapement to see how the gears were turning and found that I could manually advance the timer to a certain point then it would stick before triggering an increment of the drive gear that meshes with the timer switch shaft.

 

So, I did something I swore I'd never try again... I took the escapement apart!   I'll sum up by saying it was a lot of fiddling around and having to do things several times THEN having to carefully line everything up when closing the case.  But by golly, I did it.   Behold the working timer!

 

 
And I'll be honest - I had not given myself much slack on this one:  I was prepared to part the machine out if I had not been able to get that timer issue resolved.   Of course, when one starts other tests, other "fun" ensues... 

 

So first discovery... after I got the timer back together, I ran a dry test however the washer did not want to spin (the 57 Hotpoint, also in the garage awaiting its turn in the OR, was giggling uncontrollably...).   

 

But it was Canyon who figured it out... He was 100% right that the float switch has to be down to go into spin.  I'll guess that was a "safety feature"... Or it was to prevent the machine from ripping up a square of concrete or floorboards when it started bucking with a full tub-load of water on a spin... LOL 

 

Bottom line - the washer seemed to perform all functions - water valves powered up, drain valve solenoid opened and closed, spin solenoid opened and closed. 

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There was a rodent invasion in the garage a couple of years ago (remember what the poor '62 Mobile Maid looked like?) and the furry little fiends got into the Bendix, making a nice cozy nest in the tub out of the fibreglas insulation that we were storing pending the renovations of the loft above the garage.  Little devils...    I was not all that surprised at what I pulled out of the coin trap.  Yuck.    

 

Feeling adventurous, I thought I'd try hooking up a new drain hose to try a water test.   It doesn't show well on the picture, but the drain hose is attached with a 3/4 garden hose type fitting.  Guess that was the trend in '47 (the Launderall has the same connection).  

[this post was last edited: 7/17/2017-13:38]

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Even though Hubby was not around yesterday, I wisely decided to do this first water test outside.   

 

Having the washer on the pallet gave me an idea - I could, perhaps, build a platform for the machine to be bolted to.  The platform could then be weighted down with cinderblocks (making it possible to move the machine... muscial appliances - WHEEEE!).   I'll file that for later reference. 

 

I hooked up the water and..... 

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Ffffffff......fudge.    That water valve is leaking really, really badly... 

 

Now I was sure that when we picked up that washer, Phil and I had to turn off the water supply before breaking our heads over how to unbolt the machine from a basement floor without the right tools.   It was in January, so the washer got frozen in transit and then stayed frozen in my former top-secret off-site storage location (the one off Dufferin Road in Stanstead) for about a year.   So cue up the sound of a gun, 'cause I seem to have shot myself in the foot again!!

 

I have placated myself by repeating that the thermostatic element in the valve was probably shot anyway.  

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Did that stop me?  Nope.... 

 

I filled the tub manually and set 'er a-sloshin'!  

 

I was expecting leaks and I wasn't disappointed... LOL   The gasket around the coin trap dribbled a wee bit.  I was most surprised by the leak that seemed to be coming from the door glass.   I'll guess that's due to the door gasket (I'll further guess that I have a better chance of getting struck by lightening on my way back from the dépanneur with the winning lottery ticket than finding a replacement).  I'll have to have dig around for more service literature on this one!  

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After the wash, the drain phase of the cycle produced a very weak water flow.   

 

I was worried that the pump was somehow damaged, so I took it apart.  Well, I should've seen this coming - the input opening was clogged up with chewed fibreglas.  On a positive note the pump impeller and the outflow port seemed just fine! 

 

While I had the pump apart, I had a fiddle with the valve that is opened and closed by the drain solenoid.  That 'baby bellows' is in incredible shape for a 70 year old machine!  However, I am concerned about the plate that prevents water flow from the tub into the pump.  Does anyone know if that disc or plate had a gasket to make a more positive seal?  

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So, I feel I am making progress at last.  I had to remove the cabinet panels and I figure that while they are off, they will be treated a new coat of paint.  I had intended to do the same for the Launderall cabinet, so I guess it's time for a painting party in Ogden.  

 

Of course, as the Bendix and the Launderall move from the To-Do list to the Done list, the question arises, where the heck am I going to put them?  That's me asking, not Hubby... LOL  

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Looking good Paul. Always like seeing the progress on your machines.
 
So....

I had about 20 minutes last weekend to mess around with the Bendix, so I thought I'd attack the water valve.  

 

As I suspected, I managed to ruin it by letting the dang thing freeze....  The sad thing is that if I'd have opened that hex nut, it probably would have drained the valve.  Hopefully now someone else won't do the same dumb thing I did!! 

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However, metal can be repaired.  At least I hope so....  I gave the cracks a good coat of JB Weld and they'll be drying this week.  

 

In the meantime, I treated the valve body to a de-scaling soak.   AND, it does not seem to be a thermostatic valve after all (Or that just what I am hoping).   We'll know for sure this weekend, I guess!

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OK, I'm stumped...

Of course I didn't think to take a photo of it while still installed but I am stumped about what to do with a fairly narrow copper pipe that went from the original water valve into the water level container... the only partial picture I have is in reply #1, picture 3 of this thread.

My question is what does this do? My guess was to ensure the float valve got triggered when a load of heavier fabrics was being washed (which would soak up the water streaming into the tub and reduce the flow from the tub bottom into the float valve container).  The original water valve had a 'Y' connection to direct flow to both the water inlet at the top of the tub and through this narrow pipe.  The new generic water valve I am hoping to use has only one outlet port...

Is that second pipe to the float valve container even necessary?

Inquiring minds want to know.... LOL 
 
Vintage front loaders rule!!

These old school front loaders clean better than today's HE front loaders. Don't like HE washing machines!!
 

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