You are gonna have so much fun
Kevin, I agree with you that it had more use than the seller thought it had. The rust is a far from fatal flaw and it looks like the door gasket is is good shape which is a big plus. When I got my WP combo in 68 or 69, it had holes from the bleach tube rusted through on the right side of the tank. I glued pieces of glass over them and it worked just fine. Even the WP repair man we knew had never thought of doing that. Where yours is rusted is where the heat from the burner got the porcelain. As for the spinning, you might try pressing the unbalance switch that looks like a water level pressure switch on the right to see if it still has any air in it. If the bellows dry rotted, it would not hold air pressure and thus would not close the circuit to activate the little hoist motor to pull up the variable sheave pulley. Until I got mine working, I just hooked a straightened coat hanger through the hole in the lifter arm of the assembly and used the armstrong principle to make it go into spin. If the load was unbalanced, I had a huge dancing partner.
Wennell (sp?) polish will fix up the chrome to like new.
It might look like the wash times are sort of short, but you have to remember that the timer had a thermostatic hold for hot and medium wash temps. On Hot, it did not advance until the water was 120F and then kept on heating. On Medium, it filled with warm water and heated it to 110 or 120 before advancing so in both cases, you have extra wash time for items washed at higher temperatures. Probably this water heating with the super hot air heating the porcelain tank and the wash water splashing against the hot porcelain is what led to the fracturing of the glass coating and the rusting of the metal underneath. In electric drying models, the water was heated by an immersion element.
Kevin, I agree with you that it had more use than the seller thought it had. The rust is a far from fatal flaw and it looks like the door gasket is is good shape which is a big plus. When I got my WP combo in 68 or 69, it had holes from the bleach tube rusted through on the right side of the tank. I glued pieces of glass over them and it worked just fine. Even the WP repair man we knew had never thought of doing that. Where yours is rusted is where the heat from the burner got the porcelain. As for the spinning, you might try pressing the unbalance switch that looks like a water level pressure switch on the right to see if it still has any air in it. If the bellows dry rotted, it would not hold air pressure and thus would not close the circuit to activate the little hoist motor to pull up the variable sheave pulley. Until I got mine working, I just hooked a straightened coat hanger through the hole in the lifter arm of the assembly and used the armstrong principle to make it go into spin. If the load was unbalanced, I had a huge dancing partner.
Wennell (sp?) polish will fix up the chrome to like new.
It might look like the wash times are sort of short, but you have to remember that the timer had a thermostatic hold for hot and medium wash temps. On Hot, it did not advance until the water was 120F and then kept on heating. On Medium, it filled with warm water and heated it to 110 or 120 before advancing so in both cases, you have extra wash time for items washed at higher temperatures. Probably this water heating with the super hot air heating the porcelain tank and the wash water splashing against the hot porcelain is what led to the fracturing of the glass coating and the rusting of the metal underneath. In electric drying models, the water was heated by an immersion element.
lol)
