autowasherfreak
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Is it possible to remove this faucet and add a seperate hot and cold valve that I could connect my Maytag to?
Plumbing Question
- Thread starter autowasherfreak
- Start date
It looks like there's hot and cold water there, so it shouldn't be a problem.
However, those old steel pipes look very rusty. I wouldn't suggest trying to tackle changing that yourself.
Copper pipes are much easier to work with and often when you disturb rusty steel pipes, they crumble and leak.
I would suggest getting a plumber to take a look at it.
However, those old steel pipes look very rusty. I wouldn't suggest trying to tackle changing that yourself.
Copper pipes are much easier to work with and often when you disturb rusty steel pipes, they crumble and leak.
I would suggest getting a plumber to take a look at it.
panthera
Well-known member
Jim,
mrx is right - those pipes are not in good condition and any changes are likely to set off a chain of nasty problems.
Here, two possible solutions which occur to me:
1) Those Y-connectors which people use to hook up a portable washer to a sink can be bought at any Home Depot. They aren't expensive and work just as well in the other direction.
You'd only have to stick around by the Maytag long enough for it to fill for the wash. Rinses and spray rinses are only cold water in Maytags.
2) If you really want to risk it, those union joints are the place to make the change. Holding onto the top of the union fitting very tightly so that the galvanized pipe won't twist at all, loosen the fittings one at a time and remove the faucet.
Get two new faucets, if you can get ones that will fit into these union joints, great. If not, pre-fit the new halves to the faucets first. When you mount the faucets be absolutely certain that the pipes are neither twisted nor put under any load whatsoever.
Secure the new faucets to the wall, not the pipe behind them.
I'd go with my first solution, frankly. Oh, and if you do change things out, don't use the 0.66 roll of Teflon tape from the bins at Home Depot, either use proper pipe dope or the higher quality Teflon with NSF certification.
Good luck!
mrx is right - those pipes are not in good condition and any changes are likely to set off a chain of nasty problems.
Here, two possible solutions which occur to me:
1) Those Y-connectors which people use to hook up a portable washer to a sink can be bought at any Home Depot. They aren't expensive and work just as well in the other direction.
You'd only have to stick around by the Maytag long enough for it to fill for the wash. Rinses and spray rinses are only cold water in Maytags.
2) If you really want to risk it, those union joints are the place to make the change. Holding onto the top of the union fitting very tightly so that the galvanized pipe won't twist at all, loosen the fittings one at a time and remove the faucet.
Get two new faucets, if you can get ones that will fit into these union joints, great. If not, pre-fit the new halves to the faucets first. When you mount the faucets be absolutely certain that the pipes are neither twisted nor put under any load whatsoever.
Secure the new faucets to the wall, not the pipe behind them.
I'd go with my first solution, frankly. Oh, and if you do change things out, don't use the 0.66 roll of Teflon tape from the bins at Home Depot, either use proper pipe dope or the higher quality Teflon with NSF certification.
Good luck!
toggleswitch2
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Yes but you are in for problems with that aged stuff.
If you are going to get a plumber why not just add the taps a foot (30cm)+/- above that faucet leaving it intact. I say go for water-hammer silencers(air-chambers), check vlaves and new cut-off valves while you are at it! (Isn't spending OPM [other people'smoney] great! *LOL*)
A nice "Y" connector instead means you get to do warm and hot rinses and will have manual water temp regulation ability to act as "Automatic Ttemperature Control" in winter to warm up that freezing cold tap water, but just enough so that it is not too warm. Infinte water temperature selections between tap cold and tap hot is way cool!
If you are going to get a plumber why not just add the taps a foot (30cm)+/- above that faucet leaving it intact. I say go for water-hammer silencers(air-chambers), check vlaves and new cut-off valves while you are at it! (Isn't spending OPM [other people'smoney] great! *LOL*)
A nice "Y" connector instead means you get to do warm and hot rinses and will have manual water temp regulation ability to act as "Automatic Ttemperature Control" in winter to warm up that freezing cold tap water, but just enough so that it is not too warm. Infinte water temperature selections between tap cold and tap hot is way cool!
everythingold
Well-known member
I use quick changes for water testing and find them very handy. Just cut off the hoses from the machine so they are about 18", then buy a tee union, gasket glue and o-clamps and you have one hose coming from your washer. This gives you infinite water control as toggleswitch says. Just be careful about Automatic temp control on the machine, it gets confused if you are running straight warm. If it doesn't leak, leave that stuff alone! matt
autowasherfreak
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I thought of getting a couple of Y adapters and sharing the faucets that the Frigidiare is connected to. I don't use this faucet very much because it does leak a little when in use. The faucet for the Frigidaire is newer copper pipe
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