Note the selector for the sudssaver: drain, save or return. Did this use the same style timer as the push button Maytag and the Westinghouse L-1000? I wonder if this gave Sears Service as much trouble as the tape kit on the '58 Lady. By the time ours crapped out, they had a control panel replacement ready which I think was the 4 star cycla-fabric timer and panel.
POD 10-7-2020 Lady Kenmore One Touch Push Button Washer
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Automatic Laundering - rapid advance timers
The Westinghouse and the Sears shared a similar two speed (two motor) Controls Co of American (CCOA) timer, however the Sears application went above and beyond complicated and used a sweep on the timer shaft to sense the timing location in comparison to the button selected. Westinghouse appears to have gone the route Maytag did and wire the push button assembly directly into the timer cams via a printed circuit board directly mounted to the timer.
Both the low speed and high speed sections of the Sears timers use nylon gears that have not aged well - I can't imagine that they were just as durable when new. Not sure if the Westinghouse application of the timers fall victim to the same durability issues.
Maytag used a Malory timer with something like 20 cams with a standard low speed motor, coupled from the timer shaft to a rotisserie motor for the high speed advancement. While I've only encountered a few, the Maytag arrangement seems to have held up better over time.
Later on Maytag changed over the timer for the 906 in the late 60's to a two motor Kingston timer and a dual switched pressure switch, rather than the solenoid driven selection for the pressure switch with the Malory timer.
Pictures below are from a '60 Lady Kenmore/diagram, Westinghouse timer, and an old shot from Greg of the 906 arrangement.
Ben[this post was last edited: 10/7/2020-09:09]
The Westinghouse and the Sears shared a similar two speed (two motor) Controls Co of American (CCOA) timer, however the Sears application went above and beyond complicated and used a sweep on the timer shaft to sense the timing location in comparison to the button selected. Westinghouse appears to have gone the route Maytag did and wire the push button assembly directly into the timer cams via a printed circuit board directly mounted to the timer.
Both the low speed and high speed sections of the Sears timers use nylon gears that have not aged well - I can't imagine that they were just as durable when new. Not sure if the Westinghouse application of the timers fall victim to the same durability issues.
Maytag used a Malory timer with something like 20 cams with a standard low speed motor, coupled from the timer shaft to a rotisserie motor for the high speed advancement. While I've only encountered a few, the Maytag arrangement seems to have held up better over time.
Later on Maytag changed over the timer for the 906 in the late 60's to a two motor Kingston timer and a dual switched pressure switch, rather than the solenoid driven selection for the pressure switch with the Malory timer.
Pictures below are from a '60 Lady Kenmore/diagram, Westinghouse timer, and an old shot from Greg of the 906 arrangement.
Ben[this post was last edited: 10/7/2020-09:09]
Thank you, Ben!
So the high speed motor was to get the timer to the correct place and then the low speed was to take the timer through the chosen cycle? Makes a lock stop timer look simple because the human supplied the high speed movement.
The Maytag has a vulnerability with the buttons' start and run functions. If the spring does not pop the button out of the start position, it will advance into the cycle as soon as it stops unless it is interrupted. I realize that is very low tech compared with all of the high tech stuff you described.
So the high speed motor was to get the timer to the correct place and then the low speed was to take the timer through the chosen cycle? Makes a lock stop timer look simple because the human supplied the high speed movement.
The Maytag has a vulnerability with the buttons' start and run functions. If the spring does not pop the button out of the start position, it will advance into the cycle as soon as it stops unless it is interrupted. I realize that is very low tech compared with all of the high tech stuff you described.
Question I have always wanted to ask & keep forgetting to:
Super wash cycles #13 & #14. 13 was Super Wash with cold fill for 6 minutes and WARM rinse. 14 was Super Wash with warm fill for 4 minutes and warm rinse. I realize these two cycles are obviously using the same short cycle on the timer, it's just that the 6 minute increment allowed the cold fill while the 4 minute increment provided warm. Why would anyone want a cycle with cold wash followed by a warm rinse.
Super wash cycles #13 & #14. 13 was Super Wash with cold fill for 6 minutes and WARM rinse. 14 was Super Wash with warm fill for 4 minutes and warm rinse. I realize these two cycles are obviously using the same short cycle on the timer, it's just that the 6 minute increment allowed the cold fill while the 4 minute increment provided warm. Why would anyone want a cycle with cold wash followed by a warm rinse.
Bob, the ad description of Super Wash is missing the full details.
AldSpinBoy posted pages from the user manual back in 2009. Super Wash can be used as a stand-alone prewash, or coupled with apparently any full cycle. The instructions do not say that it works only with the four Cottons-Linens (Normal cycle) choices but it's possible that is the case and the sequence just doesn't run with other cycles.
For stand-alone prewash, select Warm or Cold Super Wash directly. 6 mins cold wash, drain, spin, off. 4 mins warm wash, drain, spin, off. No rinse occurs, although Kenmore71 also posted info from a tech document that says there are sprays in the spin.
With a full cycle, select the cycle first, then select the desired Super Wash. It runs the Super Wash sequence (presumably the same wash, drain, spin), then proceeds into the selected full cycle.
The reference to Warm rinse in the ad presumably is when Super Wash is run with any of the Cotton-Linens cycles.
Kenmore71 also posted this timer/cycle sequence chart.
The only thing I can think is that it was a primitive version of our modern profile wash where you had protein stains or soil on white fabrics that needed to be loosened in cold water, then rinsed in warm water to help warm up the machine and it would be followed by a hot wash. Whether that is what they intended, or not, it is all that I can come up with. It really seems wasteful to have two water changes for a prewash. It could also be used for ice cream stains where you have to remove the protein in the milk before you try to remove the fats from the stain, but again, seems like overkill.
High Speed/Low Speed
Tom, you are correct. The high speed motor is acting as the human and cycling through the timer to locate the correct cycle sequence, per the preselected option. The low speed motor then takes over to power the escapement portion of the timer.
For the Maytag, the rapid advance motor has a spring loaded rotor that is only engaged with the drivetrain when energized; as soon as power is cut to the motor the spring loaded rotor is shifted out of position. Further digging into the Maytag manuals would be required for verification, but I'd imagine that the push button assembly acts as the trigger to start the motor, whereas the timer itself facilitates breaking the circuit to the rapid advance motor to ensure the advancement stops as the proper place.
Ben
Tom, you are correct. The high speed motor is acting as the human and cycling through the timer to locate the correct cycle sequence, per the preselected option. The low speed motor then takes over to power the escapement portion of the timer.
For the Maytag, the rapid advance motor has a spring loaded rotor that is only engaged with the drivetrain when energized; as soon as power is cut to the motor the spring loaded rotor is shifted out of position. Further digging into the Maytag manuals would be required for verification, but I'd imagine that the push button assembly acts as the trigger to start the motor, whereas the timer itself facilitates breaking the circuit to the rapid advance motor to ensure the advancement stops as the proper place.
Ben
Speaking of the super wash, all the temperatures are built in to my ‘63 Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII and you will only get hot on the super wash cycle and there isn’t a cold water wash option. Not sure what people would have used the super wash cycle back in the day but it more than likely would have been used for heavily soiled shop towels or heavily soiled jeans.
The WP super wash temp makes sense because it only does a partial drain before filling up and advancing into the main wash.
The enzyme super wash on the Kenmore combo does something even more complex. It fills without the pump running then the pump starts, but shoots the water away from the fabrics and into the balance ring then the drain valve opens and the water drains down to the spin balance level. It then starts the roto spray and dispenses the wash product then tumbles fabrics in the super concentrated solution for 4 minutes after which it fills to the regular wash level at the 12 minute mark and goes on to complete the cycle.
The enzyme super wash on the Kenmore combo does something even more complex. It fills without the pump running then the pump starts, but shoots the water away from the fabrics and into the balance ring then the drain valve opens and the water drains down to the spin balance level. It then starts the roto spray and dispenses the wash product then tumbles fabrics in the super concentrated solution for 4 minutes after which it fills to the regular wash level at the 12 minute mark and goes on to complete the cycle.
