Early 1950's Hotpoint dishwasher timer replacement...

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turbokinetic

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Been working on a 1950s Hotpoint dishwasher. This one came in missing parts of the gravity drain mechanism and with a bad water fill valve. I spent considerable time adapting a drain pump and installing a new water fill valve. I discovered it had an incorrect but working timer; and a spare timer. I spent quite a bit of time getting it working with the original timer, which failed with an open-circuit in the timer motor winding. The motor is soldered together and I was not able to get it apart to access the coil for any possible rewinding. The spare timer worked initially; then, while sitting unused that timer motor went open circuit as well.

This has been here for over a year and several have been looking for possible working timer motors. None have turned up and I need to get this project done. The Hotpoint manual shows the exact operation sequence of the timer. The dishwasher has four working parts that need to be controlled; the fill valve, drain pump, heater, and main motor. I got a 4-channel micro PLC to use to replace the timer. The Hotpoint manual shows the operation sequence of the timer, very clearly. I was able to write a program which emulates the mechanical timer; plus some enhancements based on what others have said were limitations on these dishwashers. The factory timer used a mechanism to break the cycle down into 45 second "clicks" of the timer cams. The contacts on the timer change state during the click from one step to the next. The PLC program emulates this by incrementing a cycle position counter every 45 seconds. The logic transitions the outputs of the PLC based on the position of the cycle, using information from the Hotpoint manual as a guide.

The original timer only had OFF and ON marked on the knob. You would manually advance the timer beyond OFF, and it would go through the cycle. There were no markings as to what part of the cycle were in effect at any knob position. Once the knob had rotated 360° back to OFF, the cycle ended. The PLC can't rotate the knob mechanically, so it instead uses a momentary switch. The original knob* is retained, but it is spring-loaded and can be turned to the right, making contact with a switch. When released, it springs back to OFF position. This signals the cycle to start. The same knob can be momentarily turned to signal the PLC to pause and restart, or to cancel the cycle and drain the water. In summary, the only external modification is that the knob does not rotate by its self during the cycle. *Note that the knob is not original to the dishwasher, because that was missing. The white knob is original to this project, but it would function the same even with the original Hotpoint knob in place.

I got it working, with very few outward modifications when the dishwasher is fully assembled. Hopefully this isn't considered a "horrible" thing to do to this dishwasher, but there was not really any other way at my disposal, to make this happen. In order to prevent the flood of comments asking this - the Micro810 module is a roughly $100 part, and the optional display attached to it is about another $60 but it is not necessary for this to function. Programming is written in a combination of function block and ladder logic.

By the way, there is a much earlier thread on this dishwasher, located here.

One of the limitations on this model was that it had two short wash cycles, with no way to add detergent between them. The later models had a detergent dispenser which allowed this to work and have detergent with each wash; but this model does not have this feature. I combined the two short wash cycles into one long wash, so that the detergent will be fully utilized. I also have an idea for a detergent dispenser which will shield the detergent from the initial fill and drain water spray, but allow it to be washed into the tub during the main wash cycle. I have an idea to test, which would keep water falling from above from the fill spray from hitting the detergent, but water spraying up from below from the impeller would be able to strike the detergent.

I have uploaded several still pictures here, and linked a YouTube video below.

Link for video, click this line of text!
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Link for video, click this line of text!

Sincerely,
David

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Absolutely fascinating and great work David!!!. Sometimes when you don't have the parts you need you have to think out of the box to get these machines back to running again. Question for the electrical input signals from the dishwasher to the PLC unit are you sending 120 volts? Most of the units I've worked with only take 5 volt DC as the input voltage.

This is a great dishwasher, I had one installed and used in my kitchen for several years about a decade ago.
 
Absolutely fascinating and great work David!!!. Sometimes when you don't have the parts you need you have to think out of the box to get these machines back to running again. Question for the electrical input signals from the dishwasher to the PLC unit are you sending 120 volts? Most of the units I've worked with only take 5 volt DC as the input voltage.

This is a great dishwasher, I had one installed and used in my kitchen for several years about a decade ago.
Thanks Robert! I appreciate it greatly.

You're absolutely correct about most PLC input channels being low voltage. Most of the ones I work with on my real job are 24VDC input and electronic 24VDC outputs. Those can be used with relays, to control 120V loads; but the input side also needs to be isolated from the 120V, so sharing switches such as the measuring coil and door switch would get complicated. Allen-Bradley makes this micro PLC in one model with mains-voltage inputs, and mechanical relay outputs. The model is 2080-LC10-12AWA Micro810. Sadly none of the models with more IO channels have this feature.

I've also built a defrost control for the GE Frost Guard hotgas defrost systems, from one of these. It works well and also displays the time until next defrost, and the duration of the previous defrost cycle.

I plan to work on the soap dispenser issue today. Thinking about making a box, open only on the bottom, to sit over a detergent pod. That would keep the fill water falling from above during the initial pre-flush from washing away the detergent. But once the main wash started, it would be hit by water throwing up from below from the impeller.
 
I figured you were sending 120 volts into the PLC inputs as it appeared that way from the wiring you did as shown in your video. When I've created custom machines I use the external motor controller (Teco L510 VFD) for the PLC to receive signals from the washer's timer or other custom sensors which has a built-in 5v dc output that you can route back to any of the inputs through 120 volt coil ice cube style relays. With the built-in 5v output I don't need a separate transformer.

Please keep us posted on the detergent dispenser!
 
I figured you were sending 120 volts into the PLC inputs as it appeared that way from the wiring you did as shown in your video. When I've created custom machines I use the external motor controller (Teco L510 VFD) for the PLC to receive signals from the washer's timer or other custom sensors which has a built-in 5v dc output that you can route back to any of the inputs through 120 volt coil ice cube style relays. With the built-in 5v output I don't need a separate transformer.

Please keep us posted on the detergent dispenser!
That is interesting about the 5V inputs on your PLC. What model is that? It's good that the VFD has a 5V output for this. I've been using the Allen-Bradley VFDs which seem to use a 10V or 12V signal for the inputs; with a corresponding source terminal. Just for full disclosure, this dishwasher does use "icecube" relays. The micro PLC can't supply the current for the motor or heater, so those have relays. The PLC can directly power the fill valve and drain pump. There is a third relay to bypass motor current around the measuring coil, whenever the fill valve is not energized. This allows it to reset, as per the original timer design.

So; I did some testing on the dishwasher with detergent pods. The results were interesting and somewhat unexpected.

First thing I did was installed a "shelter" in one corner of the wash rack, to deflect the fill-rinse water falling from above from the detergent pod. Placed the pod under this and ran a cycle. The pod didn't fully dissolve throughout the entire 12 minute wash cycle; which was surprising.

Next, I simply placed the detergent pod on the wash rack below where the plates would be loaded. It was subjected to the spray-rinse at the beginning of the cycle, and appeared to swell somewhat but didn't break open before the main wash cycle. That one did fully dissolve after about 3 minutes of washing.

So, it looks like the best option is simply to place the pod on the wash rack and start the unit. Go figure! Here is a video about the testing:

Link for video, click this line of text!
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Link for video, click this line of text!

Hope y'all are finding this interesting.
Sincerely,
David
 
Hi David, very interesting. I generally prefer Cascade powder in the vintage dishwashers, I find it works better and much less issue with suds than those packets. The spray in these vintage machines is so much more powerful so they have a tendency to create more suds especially if the dishes aren't that dirty to begin with.

I can't wait to hear what you think of this dishwasher once you install it and start using it, I was pleased with its performance overall. There is nothing like the soothing smooth sound of an impeller dishwasher! My Hotpoint was a gravity drain model which worked perfectly draining it straight down into the laundry tub below the dishwasher in the basement.

The VFD I use is the Teco L510, I used to be able to find it for around $100 but those days are gone, but it really is a powerful and versatile VFD:
https://surpluscenter.com/1-hp-vfd-115-vac-1ph-input-3ph-output/?setCurrencyId=1&sku=501191

I've used it to create several custom machines both a Maytag:
https://automaticwasher.org/threads...ouping-up-a-1970s-helical-drive-maytag.79805/

and my now variable speed '58 GE:
https://automaticwasher.org/threads/look-what-happened-to-my-1958-general-electric-washer.77138/

I'm going to start experimenting next month with an Adreno Controller and 16 channel relay board next month for my next project.
 
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