Poppy comes to Boston

[jetcone]

Now for the seal in the tub

bottom:

 

The sintered copper gets replaced with the black teflon, again this seal will run quieter too.

 

Poppy gets her first oil bellows ever. 

 

 

 

 

[jetcone]

Next is the

water bellows and cleaning the crud off clamp nut so it will bite into the new rubber and seal well.

 

Frigidiare made a huge improvement on the 1-18's. The installed a ring washer under the agitator nut a source of big problems in earlier machines. Its always easy to remove a Jetcone without damaging the whole mechanism now !

 

 

 

 

[toploader55]

My My ...

Did you work all night on Poppy ?

Dr. Frigidaire Indeed !!!

 

[yogitunes]

beautiful units Jon....

this is cool as all get out.....

but wait, you can replace both seals without disassembling the whole unit?...all from the top side?

and where can you find these seals replacements at/from?...part numbers?

thanks

can't wait until its done....

 

[joelippard]

This is a very good tutorial for the archives here Jon, thanks for taking all the pictures and sharing them.

 

Joe

 

[ovrphil]

Sound deadening in the future

Yes, great tutorial and when you get to the sound deadening parts, I'd really like to know where applied and if double layering has been attempted or one layer only. I"d like to do the same to my set, Jon.

 

[jetcone]

Joe

I forgot you have a Poppy too ! Nice machine.

 

Yes Yogi all seals can be changed above the mechanism. 

I'll look up the parts numbers tomorrow.

 

 

 

[jetcone]

When reinstalling the

stainless sub top clips be careful they bend easily. Later units used coated steel but I prefer the earlier stainless on the S & T models.

 

Best method is to hook lower end in tub hole, then push the sub top down so that the upper hook with teeth can just grab the sub top. The sub top doesn't need much pressure to seal so no force is needed. 

 

 

 

[jetcone]

Time for some

"factory" testing don't you think?

 

ta ta for now

 

 

 

[gansky1]

Such a head for Frigidaire 1-18. I'd forgotten you'd cut your washer-teeth on these rollermatics when you were just a pup!

Beautiful work all around. It looks as though you have some sealant or goo on the top of the agitator nut in the pic above, is that the never-seaze?

 

[wiskybill]

Jon...

Thanks for showing all this work. I'm getting ready to work on my 1-18
soon but going a little farther into it than you. My "S" model needs a new
spin bearing. I've got the new tub seal and bearing but need a couple more
things before I start.

That poppy set is gorgeous! I almost bought those brand new in 1974 but
bought a set of Maytags instead. They were side by side on the showroom floor
at the local dealership. Who knew?

Bill

 

[jetcone]

Good for you Bill

I'd recommend if you are going that far replace both bearings. If one is worn then the other has been taking the stress as well.

 

Thats an easy job once you work around disassembling that pump. I'd be interested to know if the impeller still has all its teeth. The teeth were designed to break off if something got in the pump.

 

Greg, yes I always put neva-seeze on those threads, especially those threads. OMG Greg I love your new avatar LOL ! Ropes of Consumer Reports Clothing there !! LOL

 

[jetcone]

Seal part numbers

Last time I ordered WCI still had these : also they come up on ebay

 

Tub seal kit - 6599325

Bellows now there's a lesson! 
If you trained in Unimatics then you know the inner bellows was always called the Oil Seal and the outer bellows the Water seal !

But as we know they eliminated the "oil" seal and brought it back on the 1-18's HOWEVER know I know why it was eliminated ( besides cost ) it got renamed under the 1-18's! It became the "inner water seal" and "outer water seal". Who needed two water seals ?? And the associated costs?? Well Frigidaire found out the hard way don't mess with Unimatic technology!

Inner - as I call it OIL Seal - 5433572 - this is even an old 1950's designation number "543"

Outer -as I call it WATER seal - 659706.

 

Just like Maytag didn't study Bendix front loaders before marketing the Neptune, it seems late 1960's engineers didn't study 1940's Frigidaire mechanisms  and goofed !

 

Tsk tsk !

 

[jetcone]

Frigidaire Washer Analyzer

and video reveal something major is wrong!

 

There was a  clank clanking going on in spin, the video reveals 2 problems with the spin wheel>

 

One, the clutch housing is loose on one of the 3 attaching points; causing it to  slam into the spin wheel, see end of video.

It turns out one of the screws was snapped in half with the stub locked in the spin wheel. This causes noise, incorrect clutch engagement and incorrect brake engagement. I had to replace the spin wheel as a second screw snapped in half when I tried to remove it. I've not seen these screws so tight before.

 

The second issue is an aged 1 -18 never spin brakes at the end of spin - I HATE THAT !

 I have always tried adjusting the brake for wear but going back to Doctrine this time it finally sunk in and you can see this in the video. Doctrine states when spin ends the tub is coasting, the spin wheel is free wheeling. In order for the brake to grab there must be a drag on the spin wheel that will cause it to rise up against the brake plate and engage the brake. 
The source of drag was designed to be the carmel spin roller which is between the motor driver and spin wheel. It should always be in light contact with the spin wheel. This will create the drag necessary to engage the braking mechanism. But as you can see in the video as soon as the motor shuts off the roller stops dead ! It should be dragging, free wheeling with the spin wheel- but its not. That means it is worn down to the point there is no light contact at neutral between the roller and spin wheel. No contact = no drag, no drag = no braking!

 

A new roller is needed, so we'll see if that will solve the problem of "lFb" "lackadaisical Frigidaire braking" ! 

http://https//www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLHEtzgz5W4

 

[ovrphil]

What caused the screws to snap, were they torqued beyond specs? Great instructional thread...even if I'm at the bottom of the pile of experience. It's a good video.

 

[hooverwheelaway]

Jon, this thread is fascinating! You're such a Fountain of 1-18 knowledge! Keep it coming!

 

[hippiedoll]

BEEEEEAAAAUTIFUL!!!

what a shiney & brand new looking frigidaire 1-18.
and that is so cool that you can use that checker thing to see how the frigidaire spins and agitates at the different speeds. and all that with just a turn of that little knob!!! awesome.

can't wait until you get this poppy beauty up & running!!!
thanks for the GREAT pictures...

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!

)

 

[jetcone]

Thank you Hippie Doll

and thank you Fred. Glad to hook a vaccumboy on at least ONE washer LOL !

 

Phil on the spin wheel screws I think they were torqued too tight to begin with. These screws come with lock washers so there is no need to consider torquing them. Just turning one my screwdriver snapped the head off and there was no sign of corrosion anywhere near the spin wheel. So that's what makes me think there was a big worker-boss fight that day on the plant floor; and the worker CRANKED upped the screw gun to mega-screw setting so all those machines that day got over torqued LOL!

 

 

 

[philr]

I haven't played with my new 1-18 washers yet! That's a very interesting thread as I didn't do much on the one I already had and I'm learning here!

One thing I noticed about the tub brake on my 1-18 is that it doesn't work the first time after the machine had been sitting for a while but after a few uses, it starts to work fine again!

 

[ovrphil]

Big Worker Boss

LOL! Jon, LOL!

thank you for guiding me into that one.