China lessened fills; reducing water volume reduced force.
Potscrubber III?
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Pulled the pump off to see if I could savage any of the leaks until I can get a new pump. Anyways found the service and timing information tucked in a little envelope under the door. I guess to answer my son question from earlier the timer can skip a fill, but it only skips one prewash fill on normal and China. Fills themselves can be either 69 seconds or 47 seconds. All fills on China are short fills, Power Scrub is all full fills. Normal is a mixture of both.
Owners Manual
Cameron, I was able to find the manual for your dishwasher. There were a couple of versions of the GSD1000 with slight variations. What threw a real monkey wrench in the whole thing is there was also a GSD1000 modern dishwasher within the last 10 years or so.
The manual I found is for a model that has Rinse & Hold on the timer dial and not a cycle button. GE did silly things with cycle names. The manual I've included the link for had cycle buttons for PotScrubber. Normal Wash, and Energy Saver. GE simply renamed the major cycle buttons. The equivalent to your dishwasher would be Power Scrub, Heavy Soil, and Normal Wash. The only difference between China Crystal & Normal or Energy Saver was the shorter fills yielding the "aerated" softer wash.
I had a GSD1200 from 1987 with rapid advance timer. When the original PotScrubber III series was announced, the GSD1200 was the top of the line.
My version's cycles were labeled Potscrubber, Normal Wash, Light Wash, Energy Saver, China Crystal, and Rinse & Hold.
Earlier version were labeled PowerScrub, Heavy Wash, Normal Wash, Light Soil, China Crystal, and Rinse & Hold. The cycle name labels were changed, but the cycle sequences were the same. So the shennanigans of just relabeling cycle names allowed meeting Energy Star regulations at the time.
I'll let you know if I ever find the user manual for your exact version of GSD1000.
Bob
www.manualslib.com
Cameron, I was able to find the manual for your dishwasher. There were a couple of versions of the GSD1000 with slight variations. What threw a real monkey wrench in the whole thing is there was also a GSD1000 modern dishwasher within the last 10 years or so.
The manual I found is for a model that has Rinse & Hold on the timer dial and not a cycle button. GE did silly things with cycle names. The manual I've included the link for had cycle buttons for PotScrubber. Normal Wash, and Energy Saver. GE simply renamed the major cycle buttons. The equivalent to your dishwasher would be Power Scrub, Heavy Soil, and Normal Wash. The only difference between China Crystal & Normal or Energy Saver was the shorter fills yielding the "aerated" softer wash.
I had a GSD1200 from 1987 with rapid advance timer. When the original PotScrubber III series was announced, the GSD1200 was the top of the line.
My version's cycles were labeled Potscrubber, Normal Wash, Light Wash, Energy Saver, China Crystal, and Rinse & Hold.
Earlier version were labeled PowerScrub, Heavy Wash, Normal Wash, Light Soil, China Crystal, and Rinse & Hold. The cycle name labels were changed, but the cycle sequences were the same. So the shennanigans of just relabeling cycle names allowed meeting Energy Star regulations at the time.
I'll let you know if I ever find the user manual for your exact version of GSD1000.
Bob
GE GSD1000 USE AND CARE MANUAL Pdf Download
View and Download GE GSD1000 use and care manual online. GSD1000 dishwasher pdf manual download.
www.manualslib.com
Another AW.org thread with this same dishwasher
Cameron, not sure you saw this thread, but I'm going to include it. Someone found your version May, 2015.
www.automaticwasher.org
Cameron, not sure you saw this thread, but I'm going to include it. Someone found your version May, 2015.
Pot Scruber III + parts - Never Installed GSD1000-02
PotScrubber III never installed still on shipping crate.. Has reversible panel color package as well, Harvest Gold, Almond, White and Copper. Racks are light green. Also have box spare parts including couple filler solenoid valves, main pump, looks like a door seal, cap, some baskets and...
www.automaticwasher.org
Reply 20
Can't thank you enough for this! Fascinating to see how those cycle sequences evolved over the years.
Can't thank you enough for this! Fascinating to see how those cycle sequences evolved over the years.
The problem is now it leaks worse than it did before! Most of seems to be coming from around the outlet area. The clamp is tightened down as much as it can be. Is that boot replaceable or is there a better way to seal it up? If you turn on the pump it really leaks.
Sump Boot
Without a question change the sump boot. The newer version holds less water and as a result the dishwasher will substantially wash and rinse better.
If you mean the spray arm boot there are plenty on Ebay that will fit the older style wash arm. If you want you can get the newer version along with the newer style spray arm but its up to you.
Without a question change the sump boot. The newer version holds less water and as a result the dishwasher will substantially wash and rinse better.
If you mean the spray arm boot there are plenty on Ebay that will fit the older style wash arm. If you want you can get the newer version along with the newer style spray arm but its up to you.
Leakin Pump Connections On A GE DW
This happens sometimes, try loosening the clamp and reposition it and retighten, I usually always get these leaks to go away completely with a little patience.
If this does not work you can replace the outlet hose or use a good 3M type marine sealer and let it dry and it will never leak again but it will e hard to take apart again.
John L.
This happens sometimes, try loosening the clamp and reposition it and retighten, I usually always get these leaks to go away completely with a little patience.
If this does not work you can replace the outlet hose or use a good 3M type marine sealer and let it dry and it will never leak again but it will e hard to take apart again.
John L.
Thank you for the advice, I figured I would just have to keep messing with it but never hurts to ask. I Think I loosened the wash arm support during the cleaning process, so I took that apart along with the nut and boot and cleaned it and tightened it down. Also got a new clamp for the outlet. It did finally get sealed up. Was getting frustrated the other night walking away and looking at it with fresh eyes certainly helped too.
I noticed that the sump seemed excessively big, I did go ahead and order the new part. It looks much more efficient. Next step here will be to let it run through a cycle to clean it out and see if there are any other issues. Will hand pour water in for now. Once the sump arrives I’ll put it in and probably install it under the counter. I would like to look at using it out of the counter so I can still have my Bosch but that will be a project for later.
Looking forward to using this machine, with the new parts it’s going to be an absolute powerhouse!
I noticed that the sump seemed excessively big, I did go ahead and order the new part. It looks much more efficient. Next step here will be to let it run through a cycle to clean it out and see if there are any other issues. Will hand pour water in for now. Once the sump arrives I’ll put it in and probably install it under the counter. I would like to look at using it out of the counter so I can still have my Bosch but that will be a project for later.
Looking forward to using this machine, with the new parts it’s going to be an absolute powerhouse!
Sump came today, got it swapped out with relatively little fuss. Still leak free so that’s great. It’s currently chugging through all cycle, all seems well so far. The new motor is much quieter, all you can hear is the water sloshing around. Hopefully will be able to get it installed in the cabinet within the next few days.
New Sump
Efficient by several orders. The new sump and pump holds roughly about 1/3 the water of the old sump and pump. Given the water charge and number of fills, this machine will wash and rinse circles around newer machines.
You are lucky, no matter what people say older GE machines are simply the best overall in every way possible.
Efficient by several orders. The new sump and pump holds roughly about 1/3 the water of the old sump and pump. Given the water charge and number of fills, this machine will wash and rinse circles around newer machines.
You are lucky, no matter what people say older GE machines are simply the best overall in every way possible.
Well when I first seen the sump I thought that it looked very odd. I was wondering if there was a way to block off the bottom so it would retain less water. Glad they updated the part.
In college I lived in a apartment that had one of the later 90s GE dishwasher. Very BOL, was out of the potscrubber series but this one was not badged as such it was so BOL. Had heavy, normal, and light on the dial, a heated dry rocker and that was it. Didn’t have multi orbit, the passive filtration, the power shower, or an extended wash. Nonetheless if you loaded it right it cleaned well enough. That dishwasher lead to a lot of arguments with my roommates at the time. They where always upset that would go behind them and rearrange the dishwasher. At the time I was very conscious about utilities cost and only ran it when it was absolutely full. I always bobloaded it before I knew there was such a thing haha. Also I could never get them to understand the limits of a tower wash system.
I’m looking forward to getting this installed and pushing the performance of it. I’ve been very satisfied with my Bosch will this make me forget it?? Stay tuned!
In college I lived in a apartment that had one of the later 90s GE dishwasher. Very BOL, was out of the potscrubber series but this one was not badged as such it was so BOL. Had heavy, normal, and light on the dial, a heated dry rocker and that was it. Didn’t have multi orbit, the passive filtration, the power shower, or an extended wash. Nonetheless if you loaded it right it cleaned well enough. That dishwasher lead to a lot of arguments with my roommates at the time. They where always upset that would go behind them and rearrange the dishwasher. At the time I was very conscious about utilities cost and only ran it when it was absolutely full. I always bobloaded it before I knew there was such a thing haha. Also I could never get them to understand the limits of a tower wash system.
I’m looking forward to getting this installed and pushing the performance of it. I’ve been very satisfied with my Bosch will this make me forget it?? Stay tuned!
Honestly, you might forget about the Bosch. The dishwasher you had in college had less water per charge, one less fill on normal, a longer but not extended main wash, no fine filter, no multi orbit wash arm, no power shower and a weaker heater. All in all yours was just bare bones and the cycles built around energy savings.
This one on the other hand has everything that will make it clean without leaving particles and residue behind.
Please do before and after loads, I'm excited!
This one on the other hand has everything that will make it clean without leaving particles and residue behind.
Please do before and after loads, I'm excited!
Had some free time today to work on swapping the Potscrubber out for the Bosch. It fought me a bit, the house it came out of have different size connections than the new ones in my Apartment. Had to get an entirely new drain house and put some adapters on to make the fill valve work but I got it. The freestanding connections box is a bit awkward to work with, whoever put the water inlet directly over the electrical connection probably didn’t think that all the way through. I guess I’ll know it’s leaking when the whole thing shorts out.
Anyways it’s on its Maiden wash now. This load wasn’t terribly challenging, some dried oatmeal in the lower rack will probably be the crustiest thing. I did put a blender cup in the corner of the rack to see how well the power tower does. After running it out of the cabinet I was a little concerned about noise level...while I do enjoy the drama and splashiness of a vintage dishwasher this apartment had a very open floor plan and sometime you just want to do dishes and not fuss with it. The Bosch excelled in this area, but with the insulation jacket on and the machine in the cabinet it’s not too bad. Putting the kick plate on should quiet it down even further.
It seems to fill ok but just checking, in the last picture Is that an acceptable fill level for a full fill?
Anyways it’s on its Maiden wash now. This load wasn’t terribly challenging, some dried oatmeal in the lower rack will probably be the crustiest thing. I did put a blender cup in the corner of the rack to see how well the power tower does. After running it out of the cabinet I was a little concerned about noise level...while I do enjoy the drama and splashiness of a vintage dishwasher this apartment had a very open floor plan and sometime you just want to do dishes and not fuss with it. The Bosch excelled in this area, but with the insulation jacket on and the machine in the cabinet it’s not too bad. Putting the kick plate on should quiet it down even further.
It seems to fill ok but just checking, in the last picture Is that an acceptable fill level for a full fill?
Fill Level
Fill looks very acceptable from my vantage point. Certainly way more than the newer versions. Others with a better memory can double check me.
Fill looks very acceptable from my vantage point. Certainly way more than the newer versions. Others with a better memory can double check me.
Fill level
Yes, that’s the correct fill level for the first pre-rinse/pre-wash. A couple of subsequent fills in the cycle will be a little less. They are typically in between pre-washing and post-wash rinses.
It looks great installed. You will like the performance, and it holds a surprisingly large load! Enjoy!!
Yes, that’s the correct fill level for the first pre-rinse/pre-wash. A couple of subsequent fills in the cycle will be a little less. They are typically in between pre-washing and post-wash rinses.
It looks great installed. You will like the performance, and it holds a surprisingly large load! Enjoy!!
Good for you!
We had a Potscrubber III fall into our laps two weeks ago.
Filthy, otherwise worked great.
Having done a lot of Potscrubbers through the years (no II, though), here's some stuff I've learned (a lot with the help of the folks around here) which might be useful:
1) That multi-orbital spray arm, even if it were clogged and broken in two and leaking out the sides is one million, billion, trillion times better than the whirligig piece of sh---- which came after.
There is NO comparison.
Now, they do clog and there is a tiny little slit on one side of one arm which tends to clog up, stopping the arm from rotating as fast as it needs to. There is also a thin gasket it's supposed to ride on which sometimes fails and makes screeching noises. If it's failed, just yank the super thin gasket. We have one in use at a friend's house which has cleaned perfectly without it now for 13 years. Better with, of course.
2) The filter cover and the sump pump cover and the cover over the flood-sensor all get filled up with the most horrid gunk over time. They were meant to be cleaned by real enzymes and real phosphate and real chlorine bleach and truly hot water. Too many people used the eco-friendly trash and too cool water and too short cycles these past 20 years. Better unscrew them and clean them thoroughly. Don't put your bare hands into the sump, there's always sharp things in there to attack you. It does need a good cleaning, though.
3) The power-shower arm also gets clogged and, in contrast to what many say who didn't know these units in the old, high water days, it DOES contribute to cleaning, not just removing yibblets from the top rack. The last iterations of this machine are always in cavitation because they don't have enough water to really work well.
4) The one-way valve under the big filter in the back gets clogged. Clean it.
5) Combo52 is, as always, right. You can use a sealant. I've had success (again, running 13 years now with nary a drip) using the blue teflon tape (20x thicker than the usual white junk). It's removable and hasn't crept in those 13 years or five years or on the one we did two weeks ago. Lots of folks don't know there are different PTFE tapes, so they throw them all in one bucket. Of course RTV silicone will work, too.
6) The heating element was de-rated to about 500 Watts from 900 but the design was still for the 900. This means you pretty much have to either feed this machine 125F water for reals or run it at the temp. boost/potscrubber settings for that phenomenal clean.
Remember, it was this series that beat KA dishwashers in cleaning in the Consumer Research tests. They hated admitting it and were not happy to have to do so, but it's true - these dishwashers did the best cleaning job (especially in the corners of the top basket) of any dishwasher ever tested. Runs rings around the current two-drops of luke warm water trash.
You'll love this machine. Many folks will tell you that you must, simply must replace the shaded pole motor. That's one of those religious beliefs. I have NEVER, not ONCE had one fail and I've repaired/cleaned/restored over 30 of them in various Potscrubbers. Not once. I do oil them as GE recommends. Yes, of course the SIEMENS capacitor split-phase induction motors are quieter and run well. Sure, if you must, go for it. But, again, it's a religious objection to shaded-pole, not an actual cleaning ability driven argument.
If you do have to replace the impeller/seal/soft-food disposer, do the whole unit including the drain solenoid. By the time one is done, the other is done, too. The kits are OK if the unit is only 30 years old or so and otherwise in good condition.
So, that's my two cents, for what they're worth. Clean everything, including inside the door and that gasket and the two removable corner gaskets at the bottom. Use the highest heat settings, good detergent and rinse-aid and you'll be totally happy.
We had a Potscrubber III fall into our laps two weeks ago.
Filthy, otherwise worked great.
Having done a lot of Potscrubbers through the years (no II, though), here's some stuff I've learned (a lot with the help of the folks around here) which might be useful:
1) That multi-orbital spray arm, even if it were clogged and broken in two and leaking out the sides is one million, billion, trillion times better than the whirligig piece of sh---- which came after.
There is NO comparison.
Now, they do clog and there is a tiny little slit on one side of one arm which tends to clog up, stopping the arm from rotating as fast as it needs to. There is also a thin gasket it's supposed to ride on which sometimes fails and makes screeching noises. If it's failed, just yank the super thin gasket. We have one in use at a friend's house which has cleaned perfectly without it now for 13 years. Better with, of course.
2) The filter cover and the sump pump cover and the cover over the flood-sensor all get filled up with the most horrid gunk over time. They were meant to be cleaned by real enzymes and real phosphate and real chlorine bleach and truly hot water. Too many people used the eco-friendly trash and too cool water and too short cycles these past 20 years. Better unscrew them and clean them thoroughly. Don't put your bare hands into the sump, there's always sharp things in there to attack you. It does need a good cleaning, though.
3) The power-shower arm also gets clogged and, in contrast to what many say who didn't know these units in the old, high water days, it DOES contribute to cleaning, not just removing yibblets from the top rack. The last iterations of this machine are always in cavitation because they don't have enough water to really work well.
4) The one-way valve under the big filter in the back gets clogged. Clean it.
5) Combo52 is, as always, right. You can use a sealant. I've had success (again, running 13 years now with nary a drip) using the blue teflon tape (20x thicker than the usual white junk). It's removable and hasn't crept in those 13 years or five years or on the one we did two weeks ago. Lots of folks don't know there are different PTFE tapes, so they throw them all in one bucket. Of course RTV silicone will work, too.
6) The heating element was de-rated to about 500 Watts from 900 but the design was still for the 900. This means you pretty much have to either feed this machine 125F water for reals or run it at the temp. boost/potscrubber settings for that phenomenal clean.
Remember, it was this series that beat KA dishwashers in cleaning in the Consumer Research tests. They hated admitting it and were not happy to have to do so, but it's true - these dishwashers did the best cleaning job (especially in the corners of the top basket) of any dishwasher ever tested. Runs rings around the current two-drops of luke warm water trash.
You'll love this machine. Many folks will tell you that you must, simply must replace the shaded pole motor. That's one of those religious beliefs. I have NEVER, not ONCE had one fail and I've repaired/cleaned/restored over 30 of them in various Potscrubbers. Not once. I do oil them as GE recommends. Yes, of course the SIEMENS capacitor split-phase induction motors are quieter and run well. Sure, if you must, go for it. But, again, it's a religious objection to shaded-pole, not an actual cleaning ability driven argument.
If you do have to replace the impeller/seal/soft-food disposer, do the whole unit including the drain solenoid. By the time one is done, the other is done, too. The kits are OK if the unit is only 30 years old or so and otherwise in good condition.
So, that's my two cents, for what they're worth. Clean everything, including inside the door and that gasket and the two removable corner gaskets at the bottom. Use the highest heat settings, good detergent and rinse-aid and you'll be totally happy.
You have the 900 Watt heater!
Lucky you!
Lucky you!
Thank you all for the advice and kind words. This was a fairly easy machine to work on, I could have got it done faster but I’ve been so busy with work lately. I’m looking forward to putting it through it’s paces. I think there’s a certain charm to an old school TOL appliance, and this certainly looks sharp and lends of air of solidity to the kitchen. Might have to look out for SS panels, it would match the rest of the appliances and give a modern look. I did clean under the float valve, it actually wasn’t too nasty. The one way valve did get pulled as I had to put a new drain hose on, there wasn’t anything in it. I did not check the valve in the filtration system, it seems to drain just fine so I’ll leave it for now. I do want to address the rusting on the inner door but that will be a project for later. I can clean that valve then. I know the new motor is China made but I think it was the right move. It’s very quiet and doesn’t surge as the water sloshes about. Now that it’s in the cabinet I think the noise level is just right. Just loud enough to remind you it’s hard at work but if you just want to watch TV the sound of the power tower sweeping around the door will fall right into the back ground. I personally find it southing to listen. The power shower was clean with no clogs, there was a small bit of plastic stuck in one of the holes of the lower wash arm but that was really the only foreign debris in it. The Teflon seal in the multi orbit system is probably about on its last leg, it looks very thin and the arm does groan a bit as it’s going about. I did have a little issue with some water getting between the inner door and the color panels, also the detergent dispenser was washing out. I figured these problems maybe be related so I took the door apart and tightened and cleaned the dispensers. All the dishes are done up now will have to wait a few days for another load to test it out.
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