Prior Gen. Speed Queen FL - Vibration and transporting ?

[jben]

I have the opportunity to purchase this SQ FL (guess 10-12 yrs. old ?) that is said to have been diagnosis with a bad "vibration sensor" and it will not spin.

I read that SQ recommends these units not to be moved more than a few feet without the transport braces and bolts installed back in. This makes me wonder if this machine may now have damaged shocks, which contributed to the vibration problems, because it may have been transported without those items reinstalled.

I have asked the owner if they have the transport braces / bolts but have yet to get that addressed. Regardless, I still may want to purchase this one but would have to transport it on it's side in my van. I basically use my dolly to position the unit up near the side of my van and then tilt it over and onto the van floor and then slide it on in. I know it is going to be far to heavy for me to try and lift it in the upright position.

Assuming that the owner does not have the shipping braces, how can I prep it for transport to lay it in the side position?

I know many seem to enjoy the current model of SQ FL; but is this older example also a good possible candidate for me to obtain and use?

Would I be able to tell if the shocks have been damaged prior to purchasing it or should that not be much of a concern if I later find I need to replace all the shocks to get it back into good operating condition?

 

[ncphoneman]

I have what looks like the same model. When one of my shocks blew out you could tell by the wash drum sitting way off center. Repair shop recommended replacing all 4 since they were "already in there". Surprisingly enough the replacements weren't all that expensive - if I remember less than $50.00 for all 4.

Wonder if you can get a replacement set of braces from pws laundry or another supplier.

Good luck!

 

[combo52]

Non-Spinning SQ FL Washer

It probably has a broken wire going to the out-of-balance-switch, this was a common problem on this generation and easy to fix with 18" of flexible wire.

 

You can move this machine all over the country without shipping braces, but you can not lay it on its side at all without the shipping braces, I would suggest finding a way of keeping it up-right when you move it.

 

[ tilting it on a hand truck will not hurt at all ]

 

John L.

 

[mrb627]

Shipping Kit

Here is the link to the kit.

Speed Queen #930P3 Washer/Dryer KIT SHIPPING MATERIALS - Commercial Speed Queen Laundry Parts

Big discount parts sale on Speed Queen washer/dryer part #930P3 KIT SHIPPING MATERIALS online at Alliance Laundry Systems Distribution the #1 Speed Queen laundry parts supplier. Shipping specials on all commercial Speed Queen washer/dryer repair parts and replacement parts.

www.pwslaundry.com

 

[jben]

I did go and purchase this SQ model: AFN50FSP111TW01; both my first SQ and FL.

I immediately started the largely cosmetic deep cleaning. That got me some time commitment into the washer with the plan to get this unit fully operational and back to doing the job it was built to do.

The drain trap was clean with no coins or other items to be found. Next I would like to remove the detergent drawer but learned that there is a special tool (part #318P4) that is needed to release the drawer. I can include this "tool" in a parts order unless there is a workaround that others have used to get the drawer up and over that small plastic tab? So far I've not figured out how. - Pic #1

The washer drum is sitting low in the front - something isn't right. Looking at the four shocks I soon notice that the LF shock appears to have collapsed. I could not get a good picture of the upper shock area but note the dark RING, which is unique to the LF shock, about 2 inches from the bottom. Is that a confirming sign when a shock is damaged or overheated, etc? Pic. 2 + 3

My plan (until I learn more) is to order two new lower shocks to replace both on the left side. Then I can evaluate the drum position better and see if the right side shocks need attention too - after I get the machine running a test load or two. (And yes I will be ordering that shipping materials kit shown above as moving without it installed could have contributed to the damaged shock.)

For now the machine will not enter into "full spin" mode at all. It slowly turns the drum for 15 or 20 seconds and then just stops. I think this means I need to test the out-of-balance-switch which s/be in NC position. Hopefully this switch will test bad as that will be an easy fix. The wiring looks OK from what I can see (thanks John). I will have to remove the left side housing panel to gain access to the switch and wiring for further examination. (Any links or pointers to getting that side panel off?)

Notice that bulge in the rubber door bellow / seal at the 10:00 position (Pic 4+5). That tends to reduce in size when I lift up on the drum but it doesn't go away entirely. I have not found any cracks or splits in this seal (fingers crossed). Hopefully the rubber bellow will return to a more normal position when I get the suspension restored?

 

[combo52]

SQ FL Washers

Yay You Got The Machine,

 

You don't need a special tool to get he Set Drawer out, just pull it out to the stop and pry a little with a small screw driver, see picture #1 2nd picture is what my 15YO looks like and I have not removed it in at least 5 years.

 

You will not see a broken wire going to the balance SW, the conductor breaks inside the insulation, just bypass the out of balance sw near the board and if it spins replace the wiring, leave plenty of slack and use very flexible wire.

 

It is not possible to have broken the shock spring moving the washer unless you threw it off the truck or let it fall down a flight of stairs, LOL

 

How old is this washer ? Do you think it had a lot of use ? It looks really good overall.

 

John L.

 

[jben]

It is from 2013

..."You will not see a broken wire going to the balance SW, the conductor breaks inside the insulation"

Thanks, that helps me understand what I'm looking for and the need to test further if that switch should test out OK!

I don't have enough experience to judge the overall condition and I may be naïve; yet so far I'm super excited to be working on this project. I'll post updates to this thread as I continue to work through it.

Yes, the machine is newer than I originally guessed. I'm showing it was made in April of 2013 based on a serial # 130400....

Here is where it gets interesting to me. The people selling the machine had a truck (vs. my van) so they were kind enough to deliver it to my driveway for an extra $20 (only about 5 miles away). When they showed up they had placed a large piece of cardboard to help protect the machine. The cardboard was from the box their new washer came in. It was for a new Maytag HE TL that they purchased from the nation wide chain of orange "Home D..." stores (didn't know if I can mention names)- about a $700 washer at that store.

I don't know if it is because some people give up easily (it stopped working, it's getting dirty (we never wiped it down...) so go buy a shiny new washer) - or maybe they find themselves in a position having much more $$ than time. Since I seem to have more time than $$ maybe it will work out good for both of us.

 

[jben]

Yes the wiring - John L nailed it

Even though it's difficult access, I reached in from both the front and the back and was able to confirm that the out-of-balance switch tested normal. I checked the one wire and it showed good continuity. On to the second wire and nothing, even though the wiring harness looks perfect... I started pulling off all the tape and look what I found - a totally broken wire. I spliced (soldered) in a new section to give me some room to work with and hopefully allow that wire more room to flex if it needs too.

The machine now spins again but I don't want to do a full wash test with the drum sitting so low and to the left. My parts order just came in which includes four new shocks. (I also ordered the shipping kit Malcolm posted above)

I'll ask more about these shocks in the next response for better subject separation.

 

[jben]

Now on to the shocks

Even though I hate to have purchased four new lower shocks because it looks like only the two left side are suspect. Both shocks on the left are sitting much lower than the right side.

Nevertheless, SQ recommends replacing all four so I’m going to try and do that with the hope of do it all now and be good for a few years. Plus I have the washer out in my garage with room to maneuver and work around it.

I’ve only found the one video (“Following Keenan”) which shows him replacing the lower shocks without taking off the side panels. The front two don’t look too bad because I have already tested and find I can get a small jack (or 2”x4”) in there on the cast iron ballast to lift on that end. However the thought of working through that rear access panel for the two rear shocks is giving me nightmares.

I don’t see anyplace to lever up the drum in the back end. I don’t see anything except the motor and I would think that should be avoided ? On the one side you have the wiring harness to work around and the other side looks worse with the drain hose in the way. If anyone has done this job and can give some pointers about those back shocks please advise. How did you lever up, or lift the rear end through that opening?

In the video, he appears to struggle in the rear and eventually lays the machine flat on it’s front face. Is that going to be OK? I’m older and doubt that I will have the arm strength to muscle (compress) the shock in to it’s mounting hole position – any ideas about getting this done? I would actually like to try and get the back two done first because I’m thinking having the old shocks still in the front will allow the drum to sit a bit lower (vs. working against two new shocks in front).