Hi guys
The new timer came in last weekend and I've installed it. The machine now works like new.
I had two problems
1 Faulty timer.
2 Worn neutral drain.
The neutral drain had been functioning intermitantly for quite some time, when the timer started to fail, one problem confused the other (for me)
I believe the reason for the machine stoping when it was not suppose to for 1 to 10 seconds the resuming spin was the faulty timer.
Since I started the repair with the neutral drain (parts that came first) I'll share my observations with that part of the repair first.
The new parts came with a new spin gear, 2 new plates, the latch, trip lever, and spin pawl, two screws.
I couldn't see why I needed new plate (rack retainer) what would be wrong with it? And as it turned out none of the screws including my old one fit the hole on either of the new plates sent. My old plate appeared to have a threaded hole that the screw threaded through. So I reused my old plate and screw for that. (I believe the screw is referred to as a shoulder pawl stud) and a Allen wrench is use for it.
Installed new trip lever, spin pawl, latch. Since I can't see ware on my old parts, I'm wondering if just the oil getting thick with age interferes with them doing there job?
If thats true, then I can't see the point of changing the parts, and not changing the oil, as illustrated in one of the above videos?
Unless the plastic spin gear hub is not supposed to tun like mine old one dose??
I also ordered a new motor coupler from Amazon that came in at the same time.. however the $7.99 part comes with only a new insulator a one coupler. You have to order the $12.00 one to get the one that has 2 couplers, metal reinforced one that goes on the electric motor side. As these things go.. Of course mine broke on the motor side...after transmission and motor reinstall during my testing! (Inclosed pic)
The new six pad clutch I put on is fine, but I don't think it was really necessary to have a commercial clutch for my machine
(so I have a spare) The extra $ would have been better spent on a heavy duty coupler with all three pieces.
I may post a new thread titled "New Neutral Drain" and share my observations possibly to help someone else that may take on this repair,
I included pics of my old parts cleaned up, and the worn insulator that was cause of the black dust under the machine.
The new timer came in last weekend and I've installed it. The machine now works like new.
I had two problems
1 Faulty timer.
2 Worn neutral drain.
The neutral drain had been functioning intermitantly for quite some time, when the timer started to fail, one problem confused the other (for me)
I believe the reason for the machine stoping when it was not suppose to for 1 to 10 seconds the resuming spin was the faulty timer.
Since I started the repair with the neutral drain (parts that came first) I'll share my observations with that part of the repair first.
The new parts came with a new spin gear, 2 new plates, the latch, trip lever, and spin pawl, two screws.
I couldn't see why I needed new plate (rack retainer) what would be wrong with it? And as it turned out none of the screws including my old one fit the hole on either of the new plates sent. My old plate appeared to have a threaded hole that the screw threaded through. So I reused my old plate and screw for that. (I believe the screw is referred to as a shoulder pawl stud) and a Allen wrench is use for it.
Installed new trip lever, spin pawl, latch. Since I can't see ware on my old parts, I'm wondering if just the oil getting thick with age interferes with them doing there job?
If thats true, then I can't see the point of changing the parts, and not changing the oil, as illustrated in one of the above videos?
Unless the plastic spin gear hub is not supposed to tun like mine old one dose??
I also ordered a new motor coupler from Amazon that came in at the same time.. however the $7.99 part comes with only a new insulator a one coupler. You have to order the $12.00 one to get the one that has 2 couplers, metal reinforced one that goes on the electric motor side. As these things go.. Of course mine broke on the motor side...after transmission and motor reinstall during my testing! (Inclosed pic)
The new six pad clutch I put on is fine, but I don't think it was really necessary to have a commercial clutch for my machine
(so I have a spare) The extra $ would have been better spent on a heavy duty coupler with all three pieces.
I may post a new thread titled "New Neutral Drain" and share my observations possibly to help someone else that may take on this repair,
I included pics of my old parts cleaned up, and the worn insulator that was cause of the black dust under the machine.
