Programmes you are always using

[solsburian]

@superelectronic:

I think you are right about it being perhaps a good idea on paper, no one else does a slim line washer dryer (as far as I know) which is perhaps saying something. Unfortunately we simply don't have the space for a separate tumble dryer as our Kitchen is very small and their is no where else to put it in our flat really. It's drying function is not that impaired which is more then can be said for the Servis Washer Dryer my partner had in their old flat!

@nrones:

There are some insights into Calgon in the link below.

http://www.washerhelp.co.uk/limescale_2.html#cl_q1

 

[paulc]

I am with Jon

I wash practically everything on cottons which has 1300 spin, I select water plus ( extra water in the wash and rinse phases) I sort as follows:

White Towels:- cottons, short, 50/60deg usually large load cycle time 90mins

Tea Towels and cleaning cloths:- cottons,short 60deg, usually 3 to 4kg, cycle time 59mins

White clothes:- cottons short, 40/50 deg depending on soil. Again usually 3 to 4kg, cycle time 59mins

Light colured clothes: cottons, short 40deg, 3 to 4kg, 59mins

Darks:- same as above.

Jumpers:- Usually express 40deg, cycle time 30 mins or 37 if extra rinse selected.

I have never had problems with creasing using the cottons wash, even on synthetic items but I never wash a full 6kg of clothes at a time.Towels...I fill the machine as full as possible. I don't have a dryer so in the winter the 1300rpm spin is a must! I usually fold stuff as it comes out of the machine and leave it an hour or so before I put it on the clothes horse. In the summer everything goes straight out on the line if it is not raining.

I have, at times, used the Demims ,Darks and Automatic programmes but have found the cottons does a better job in a shorter time using less water/detergent and has a faster spin.

Hope that wasn't too long winded for you all!!! NRONES, I have always had a bit of a soft spot for Candy machines, epecially from the 70's. I actually like the styling of the new machines. I couldn't really see the programmes on the pic you posted(need glasses I think!) but I think I'd probably use the cottons programmes the most. Does Candy still do the rapid 32 min wash at 50deg? I used to look after an old lady with a Candy machine from the 90's and that was the only programme she would let me use and I must say it did a good job if you sorted colours properly.

 

[nrones]

R32 - Some yes some not

Mostly new models that are coming out are having 14-30-44min (max 40c) but some models are still having classic 32 50c which does AWESOME job for a fastwash! really effective!

 

[gorenje]

@ nrones: To be honest I don't know if Calgon is so good.

I use it because in our region the water is hard and because I got used to use it in my previous new washer. I use it also because it increases the wash ability of the detergent....and because I'm so "obsessed" with cleanliness I think it's a good think. But honestly, perhaps is really something I wouldn't need to use.
Ingemar

 

[l86810]

Hi Dex! Welcome to the site!
What a great idea for a thread.

Mine are...

Towels:: Cotton 75oC with Water Plus and Extra Rinse. (Ariel Bio with Febreeze) 2h28
Bedding:: Minimum Iron 60oC with Short, Water Plus and Extra Rinse. (Ariel Bio with Febreeze) 1h10
Whites / Lights (general):: Automatic 40oC. (Ariel Bio with Febreeze) 1h18
Whites / Lights (nice):: Dark Garments 20oC-40oC (Ariel Excel Gel Bio) 1h15
Colours / Darks / Jeans:: Dark Garments 20oC with Short (Ariel Excel Gel Colour) 1h02
Acrylic or Wool / cardigans:: Wool 30oC (Woolite) 0h39

I, like Jon also split loads into general garments like work shirts, plain t-shirts, underwear, lounge wear etc, and then nicer stuff like branded t-shirts, going out shirts, jumpers with prints on etc

Adam

 

[superelectronic]

If only we could write a laundry manual....

It's always so refereshing to pick up a new piece of info from this site on laundry practices! Folding jeans in the dryer to avoid creasing for example...though would this not increase drying time and run the risk of wear lines where there are folds? Suppose maybe not if drying inside out as recommeded generally.

I envy those folks who say they have no issues with creasing. Maybe they don't wear so many shirts for work or something! The advice on reduced loads and temperatures does come from experience...if I follow instructions for my own washer and load a full 3kg of mixed fabrics (read poly cotton shirts etc) the creases are hellish, especially if I opt for 50C synthetics (40C synths is too short; 40C cottons is long enough but has a long spin).

Anyway, just for the record, my regular programmes are:

60C Cottons for whites (this is without fail; don't have any delicate whites)
50C Synthetics or 40C Cottons for light colours
ditto for darks but sometimes I will use 40C synthetics if I'm feeling careful
Very occasionally I will use Wool for delicate jumpers
Quick wash for the odd random item or two
From time to time I use 60C cottons for lights if they are robust (cotton duvet covers, pale sheets, the oven glove and so on)...ok, scraping the barrel now!

Here's a pic of my controls...the programmes based on the ITCL symbols and (for those who don't know):
shower = rinse
spiral = spin
intermittant spiral = short spin
P = prewash
->-> = quick wash

Super Rinse is on for most loads unless they're small, especially on the synthetics cycles that have only 3 rinses (cottons have 4). Maybe not totally necessary but I think it's easier on the clothes - more cushioning.

PS have some more material on the Hoover OPH616 now and will post a new thread...just for the hell of it! And Dex, apologies - I have no YouTube account due to lack of appropriate video-making technology!

 

[ronhic]

Ok, well it seems most of us 'front load' jockeys tend to use similar cycles - who'd have thought

So here are mine...all with either OMOmatic, DRIVEmatic or every now and then SURFmatic (yes, I know....it really should be OMO Front Loader/HE, but it'll ALWAYS BE OMOMATIC...) and no softener under any circumstances...

Sheets/towels - cotton 60c, quick - 1hr 15min
Whites - cotton 40/60c, quick - 1hr 8min or 1hr 15min
colours - cotton 40c, quick - 1hr 8min
Dogs bedding - synthetic 30c, quick - 44min

Every now and then I use the wool cycle...

As you can see from the fuzzy picture below (UK fans) the machine looks, and is, the same as the first ones sold under the 'John Lewis' label and made by Zanussi/Electrolux for them....

It's been great really. I've had the hinge side suspension replaced 18months ago and that is it...not bad for a machine that averaged 20 loads a week for the first 3yrs of its life (2006-2009) and is still doing 11.....

 

[nrones]

Cool

Thanks for all your reply"s!
Well, mostly people use similar programmes

@superelectronic
What happend to OPH616? why is it "hell"?

 

[hoover1100]

SuperElectronic

About the jeans, no they don't get wear marks and they dont take longer to dry. They come unfolded after a few revolutions anyway. Don't ask me how it works, I have no idea, it just does *lol*

I've just come to the conclusion now that some fabrics will crease and others won't, and there really is nothing you can do about it much. My Dad's expensive pure cotton work shirts crease like hell, but they crease just as badly whether washed on cottons 60 or synthetics 40, and whether spun on a full 1200 cottons spin, or a short 600 synthetics spin. I used to do bedsheets, shirts, anything that creased on sythetics 40 with 600 spin in an effort to minimise creases, but it really made no difference.

Same with the dryer, tumble drying or line drying, it makes no difference if you do it properly (i.e. shake things out and hang them up neatly, or use low heat in the dryer and don't allow them to overdry)

At the end of the day, some things WILL need to be ironed, no matter what, it just depends how fussy you are about having creased clothes as to which clothes you will have to iron.

Matt[this post was last edited: 12/29/2010-12:56]

 

[nrones]

Same conclusion from me!

I just did a programme that SuperElectronic suggested me (Synthtetics 30 with easy iron option). Some clothes just creased some not.. ones that don"t crease on normal wash, didn"t creased now.. ones that crease, remained creased... there was no one thing that was more/less creased.. So I will have to accept that somethings will need to be ironed!

 

[superelectronic]

Maybe I should keep my opinions and advice to myself...

Dex, I'm sorry to hear my suggestions had little or no effect! On reflection, one can do all sorts of things to REDUCE creasing; ulimatelty, however, those items that crease will always need ironing! And you might well be of the mindset that if you're going to have to iron anyway, what does it matter how creased the clothes are? Personally, I'd rather not have to deal with heavily creased items when a bit of care in the laundry will make it that much easier to iron out the creases...so, for example, careful laundering of polyester/cotton blend shirts means ironing is nice and quick. Wash those same shirts in a large load on a hot wash with fast spin and you end up having to dampen the entire article before you even get the steam iron out! Furthermore, careless laundering can set creases into things you wouldn't otherwise have had to iron (e.g. washing anything synthetic much above 50C - and never over 60C: creases will become virtually permanent). Then again, everyone's laundry pile is different. What works for one person might not for the other. That's the trouble with advice!

Further apologies are due for to the confusion caused in my earlier post: I was talking about my normal machine, the Hotpoint WM12 from 1996 (controls were pictured); there was nothing "hell(ish)" about the OPH616! There'll be more on the Hoover when I'm feeling mentally stronger...or have had a drink...given the antipathy toward new Hoover products I'm not sure what sort of reception a thread will get!

Matt - thank you for the additional clarification about the jeans tip. I feel I am in need of a tumble drying masterclass!

Bye for now.

Alex

 

[solsburian]

While there is apathy towards Hoover/Candy, that should not put you off starting another thread. I'd like to hear your experiences with your Parents OPH616!!

 

[favorit]

almost vintage Miele here

.... so "water plus" and FOUR rinses (even on minimum iron and delicates) are default. I rarely use minimum iron, as the cotton cycle has default cooldown and even interim spins pulse.

The downside : I have to push the "without prewash" button everytime ... 20 years ago the prewash was a commandment *LOL*

Anyway my loads are :

- whites cottons/linen/polyester/lycra (underwear, dress shirts and towels) : boilwash/colours 60°C + "short" + "without prewash" + liquid detergent for whites + oxy bleach

- the world of colours : kitchen towels,runners/tablecloths, bedding, underwear, undershirts, fleece socks, dark towels, speedos, silicone caps, capilene sweatshirts, polyester baggies/shorts, work uniforms : same 60°C cycle as whites, but with liquid detergent for dark fabrics and fabric disinfectant

- cotton trousers and shirts run on cottons 30°C ("bollitura colorata"= "boilwash and coloured cottons")

- fleece jumpers/jackets/blankets/gloves/caps/pants, polo shirts, viscose dress shirts, velvet trousers, nice shirts, training suits, raincoats go on "delicates easy care"/"lava indossa delicata"/"pflegeleicht fein" cycle tap cold or 30°C + no prewash + rinse hold. Before releasing the rinse hold button I switch to cotton cycle to have a full spin (usually set to 800-1000 rpm)

Woolens go in my parents Novotronic, as this "vintage" wool cycle is not that safe ....

I never have so stained clothes that require the default extended wash portion of the cycles, then I always press "short"/"breve" too

 

[nrones]

SuperElectronic,
Ofcourse you shouldn"t keep your advices for yourself!! You should just tell everything you think!! It"s just a thing that we have to try, and share our experiences!
I will comment on your hoover thread.

Solsburian,
Did you came ack home from that trip? How did Hoover washed-dryed towels?

Favorit
I deffinatley adore your choice of programmes and machine! Just think you need detergent and softer... no more additives

 

[virabhadrasana]

Hi! Very interesting thread!
I have a Siemens Siwamat XSL 1260, bought in 2001.
I normally use 40° or 60° cottons (+ intensive if necessary) for cottons/linen/towels or Synthetic 40° for other washes.
There is not big difference in tumble actions between cotton or syntethic programs, and I'm quite desappointed about that; cotton programs just have a longer main wash (up to 60 min. on full loads with intensive option selected)and of course have longer and faster spins.
"Mix wash 30°" has a gentle drum action.
Rinses are quite poor and the "extra rinse" option just adds one rinse with (very) low water lever, so I always run a separate "rinse+spin" (high water lever by default)after the washing is finished. "Rinse+spin" + extra rinse option selected adds 2 extra rinses.
Before the Siemens I had a Top Loader Miele similar to Favorit's (bought in 1994). Even tought only Cottons cycles had intermediate spins, I really appreciated the "delicate" or "short" options and the possibility to select high water level for rinses, 1 extra rinse, etc by turning the selector and pushing the bottons as explained in the notice (sorry for my bad english). But the best thing was that this washer allowed to repeat or to skip a section of the washing, and it could handle unbalance perfectly even if sometimes it used to jump on the first and second spin burst ). I had to sell it when I moved and i really regret it.
I think my next washer will be a Miele again!
Regards,
Marco

 

[solsburian]

@nrones:

It didn’t do too bad, just the duvet cover and one pillow case was slightly damp in places, an extra 30 minutes sorted it out. It's probably because they got tangled together at some point.

 

[mrboilwash]

Nice thread! Just cannot resist to throw in my washing recipe once more again ;-)

So I do towels, socks, rags and dishtowels at 95° cottons with "intense"

Fitted sheets, doublesheets, pillowcases, tablerunners and undies is 75° cottons short.

Everyday clothes like jeans, t-shirts, hoodies, sweaters, polyester and lycra sports stuff like swim trunks at 60° cottons with short.

Only the new and nice stuff like a jacket gets the special spa treatment at 30° or 40° with the appropriate cycle.

So basically I get along with 3 cylcles. Most loads are usually loaded to capacity but not stuffed. I always have water plus selected to get the 3rd rinse.
I dont care for additives like oxygen bleach just use a good mild liquid detergent with enzymes for everything. I also dont care much for seperating whites and colors because 99% of the things we get here wont run in the second wash anyways. My few white things are still amazingly white and not dingy at all but of course not that perfect as if when washed seperatly. Guess the higher temperatures help a lot. Some colors seem last forever while some things fade rather quickly, but who cares. Most of my things are out of fashion before they are worn out.

 

[nrones]

@solsburian
I am glad it did a great job... maybe dryer balls would help with that bed sheet problem! To be honest, I hate when it comes to bedding and my Whirlpool dryer - I literally have to stop it after 10 monutes to spread the sheet that rolled up, and it never happend that it isn"t rolled up Would love to try dryer balls, but currently I can"t find them

@mrboilwash
You wash darks at 60 too?
Nice choice of programmes, but I really think that darks should be washed at 30-40

 

[gorenje]

whites on 95°C

Hello everyone once again,
I was reading again your posts. Am I the only one who still wash whites on 95°C?
I mean, I do this even if my whites are not so dirty. I don't have so many whites to do, but those few times I do I want my whites to be really clean and white. And the better way to obtain this is powdered detergent and a 95°C wash. (no white shirts in the load - those I wash at 60°C)
Ingemar

 

[jlbrazil]

I do mine at 60 coz my machine is 110 volts

No 95 wash.

 

[solsburian]

@nrones

I've never tried them but I've read that they don't work. It's not a big deal for me since they were virtually dry anyway.

 

[mrboilwash]

Yes, thats right I even wash darks like black t-shirts at 60°. But I prefer a regular liquid over any color powder, find them to be easier on colors and fibers in hot washes.
Its just the most precious stuff that gets 30° or 40° in this household.
I know its a bit exteme considering my laundry is not that dirty. I think I might be a bit of a germophobe, well at least laundrywise...

When I still used powders the towel loads were washed at 95° with regular powder.
Sheet loads got washed at 60° with color powder.
Clothing got washed at 40° with color powder.
Then I switched to liquids about 2 years ago because I hated the zeolit dust in the dryer`s lint screen but didnt get the same results anymore like I was used to. So I decided to do my 40° loads at 60° and my 60° loads at 75°.
I dont regret that change of laundry practice at all. My towels (still boilwashed) last much longer and dont get that nasty scratchy limescale buildup so fast as before. I also believe there is less wear on my other clothes even with the higher temperatures. And did I mention my things smell much better now ?

 

[favorit]

do agree with Stefan

Dex,me too never wash dark towels and underwear lower than 60°C.

It is not question to be or not to be germophobe : that stuff like wet towels, sweated underwear and sport stuff are prone to stink. These nasty smells are actually the result of a bacterial proliferation and bacteria spread to the whole load if not controled with proper means (thermal or chemical inibition).

A proof of what I'm saying : once I washed some **new** towels @ 40°C with just one beach towel I forgot inside a bag for a whole day. They came out fresh smelling BUT just **during** their first use they started stinking.

Modern detergents for dark clothes actually do their job, even on average quality fabrics. My Ikea black towels aren't high quality items, yet they still are actually black after almost ten years. I can even wash black clothes with pastel colours @ 60°C without any issue.

@ Stefan : Dixan (Persil) Gold regular powder does not contain anymore zeolythes, at least the italian formulation

@ Ingemar - I rarely boilwash, as I had to split into a boilwash load without elastics an a 60°C load with elastics and I had to wait too long even to collect just an half load for each one. Anyway my mother boilwashes her fine linen tableclothes to get rid of wine and tomato stains made by the usual hopeless guest . She has a "secret" trick for heavy stained clothes : she splits them into half loads to enhance the lift and drop action of the machine. This way she doesn't need to use any bleach beyond that one contained in the powdered detergent

 

[mrboilwash]

Just checked the Henkel website for Persil and indeed the new traditional powder does not contain zeolites anymore. Thats good news, maybe I should try a small package for badly stained things that cannot take high temperatures. However the Megaperls are still loaded with the stuff.

Wouldnt worry too much about elastics and boilwashing. After all there is elastics and there is elastics. I mean the oldfashiond rubberbased elastics wont last forever no matter how good one takes care of them. Modern Elasthan (Spandex) is way more durable and seems to cope well with the occasional 95° wash.

 

[cbosch]

programmes

Hi folks,

My programmes of choice vary slightly with the different machines but in brief...

Miele:
Towels / table linnen / underwear - Cottons 60 / 95 dependant on content of load
Clothes - Shirts cycle 40
Pure cotton bedding - Shirts cycle at 60
Wool - Wool cycle with 600rpm spin at 30
(I like the shirt cycle because it doesn't spin until the ned and the clothes are easier to iron. They come out pretty wet but I stick nearly everything in the dryer)

Hotpoint aqualtis
Towels underwear etc - Whites 60 / 90
Work shirts - Shirts at 40
Dark socks PJ's - synthetic 50
Good trousers - silk 30 cycle
ordinary clothes - synthetic 40
bedding - Whites 60
Strangely I tend to wash wool at the silk cycle in this machine find it gentler and there is less spinning invovled,

 

[nrones]

cbosch

What is the spin speed on the shirts programme? And how long does it need to dry?

 

[lavamat_jon]

nrones - the Miele shirt spin is 600rpm.

 

[zanussi_lover]

programmes

I do towels/sheets - Cottons 60*c + quick with Persil Non Bio Powder

Coloured Towels at Cottons 60*c + Quick with Persil Colour

Clothes (Whites) - Synthetics 40*c + Quick with Persil Non Bio powder

Clothes (Colours) - Synthetics 30*c + Quick = Persil Colour

Wooly Jumpers/Delicates get done on Woollens Cold or Handwash.

None of my clothes are specifically dirty, so i can get away with using the quick wash option on my beko, I cant be arsed waiting 2 hours for a wash cycle. Anything that takes longer than 90 minutes is a waste of time.

I use about 70ml of Persil each wash, and the wash comes up clean.

I never boil wash clothes, if whites need brightening up i add some bicarbonate of soda in with the powder, or a glo white whitener sachet in the wash load.

 

[aquacycle]

Washing:

Towels, dishcloths & Bedding - Cottons 60, water plus

Darks (including jeans, t-shirts, hoodies, underwear, work pants) - cottons 40, short, water plus

Coloureds (light t-shirts, light coloured work shirts and such) - minimum iron 40, short, water plus

I also have some wool work jumpers that I was on delicates 40

Drying:

I find myself using the dryer less and less. Bedding and towels always go in the dryer, as I have nowhere to hang this up. Underwear and socks go in the same drying load as my work pants and work shirts. When I tumble dry these, I can get away with not ironing them if I empty the dryer quickly enough. Everything else goes on the clothes horse.

 

[aquacycle]

and the dryer...