Programmes you are always using

[superelectronic]

Crease removal...

Well, Dex - that easy ironing options sounds just what you'd need to minimise creasing, programme-wise! From experience, I'd say you just need to keep the temp low, the load to around two-thirds of a drum full and the spin short (preferably pulsed). A cool down phase is also good news. Once you have those conditions, most machines will launder without adding any major creases, as well as taking out any that have been put in! That said, it's vitually impossible for some items not to develop creases during the wash; when you get down to basics, there's no 100% effective alternative to ironing your clean clothes. Sorry!

HOOVER UPDATE: have just had chance to study the wash rythms for the OPH616's Sport and Wool cycles. Sport was normal agitation at higher water level (good) and Wool was gentle action at extra high water level (drum turns for about 3 seconds every 90 seconds or so: enough to be effective, though). Haven't time to run a full cycle today, though. Tomorrow I may put the machine through its paces with towels on 60C Cottons with Sensitive Care selected. Think I'll be in for a long-haul cycle with that one!
Also, it's only been in service 7 months, contrary to my earlier post.

Now as to the slim depth Hoover WD, it could well be the classic case of great innovation and so-so production. Keep us posted! I think many of us here would say to washer dryers in general: "just don't do it". Get a compact dryer instead - it could double as an occasional table given the right cover. A bit like anything 2in1, it's forever a compromise and never as good a separates.

Seem to have lost my train of thought now so I'll close...

 

[mielemondia757]

I wash in my Miele Navitronic with all programms!!
white Cotton Towels, underwear and white socks are always wash at boilwash 95 with prewash and 1800rpm

dark load would wash on dark laundry program on 40°C with 1200rpm

easycares would wash on easy-care 40-60°C with 900rpm

wools on wool with 1100rpm and on 35°C

and Jeans with Jeans programm with 1000rpm

oh and the rest on automatic with 1200rpm and at 45°C

and here the washer

 

[nrones]

SuperElectronic,

I know there is no machine that isn"t making creases! I know that easy iron option is perfect on Candy, and it all stands, until we come to the final spin. it does one 600 10s burst! Clothes either go on separate final spin (that is long, and not interval) or drip-dry - clothes comming out soaked. If there was a final spin I would certainly use it always!
My cousin in London has the siemens, always use Easy-care 40, and dries in the dryer, she never irons! I mean, clothes aren"t 100% ironed, but very acceptable to wear it.
Also, as I said when we put clothes in the laundry basket (that is smallish) clothes are mostly under a big pressure, and they are mostly being creased inthere, so I ask would it be better if I just hang my shirts and t-shirts b4 washing?
Also, for example jeans (no matter wash) are comming out compleatly crease-less, and when I put them in the dryer they crease inthere so badly they must be ironed!
Thank you all for replying! I can"t wait to see more reply"s

 

[superelectronic]

Creases II

Hmmm...I see the problem, Dex: lack of appropriate spin to dry clothes without causing undue creasing! Not sure what to suggest for sure; you don't want very wet clothes hanging around indoors and certainly not in the dryer (just wastes the electricity). Maybe go with the sythetics 30 idea: light items will be sufficiently spun at 800rpm and with a bit of shaking and reloading the remainder will cope well with the full 1200 separate spin. This has long been my plan of action in the absence of a sophisticated machine with pulse spins etc.

Jeans should not crease when tumble dried, at least not to the point they HAVE to be ironed (and this is where you just have to apply your own judgement: ironing is definitely on the way out these days). Try drying jeans together: I've often found it best not to mix trousers with other garments since the legs are prone to wrapping themselves around other articles. Admittedly you might end up with a tangle of legs but give it a shot. Even more than with the washer, do not load the dryer too fully if crease removal is important. Those clothes need plenty of space to move around! It's also wise not to mix heavy and light items in the dryer: (a) it's difficult to get things uniformally dry and (b) the heavy items will crush and crease the light ones. This also applies in the washer with things like shirts and sheets: when you hit spin the heavy items crush and crease your lighter fabrics.

Take care with the heat setting in the dryer: gentle is always better and less likely to set in creases. As I recall, Whirlpool dryers are pretty fierce on full heat and when I had one it was a struggle not to get clothes smelling slightly toasted even on gentle (you did say you have a WP dryer, didn't you?).

Happy washing in the meantime: it's a learning process all along the way and you can't rely on one source for all the answers; Mothers (usually the starting point) can be particularly unreliable unless they take a particular interest. More often than not, people do what they can get away with (or will put up with) rather than follow best practice.

Alex

 

[superelectronic]

PS...

...I really don't think you need to keep your dirty items neatly folded. Even having been exposed to pressure, the wash process will relax items sufficiently to remove creases from storage in the laundry bin. You can be fairly confident that creases on clean laundry are the result of the washing process.

 

[nrones]

Thanks for such a great reply!

I wil try the synth"s 30 thing
I always use low heat, because my parents (and some other people around me) made me be afraid of shirnking, and they say clothes can shrink on such a high temperature

I just suddenly started thinking how my clothes were perfect b4 I got new machine(s). In my old Candy Exclusive 5000 I knew every bit and everything, everything was briliantly clean, and there was literally no need for ironing anything! And yes clothes are smelling slightly toasted even on gentle (I had a thread about it)!
Just to mention once again, when the less ironing programme on Candy is finished, clothes arent too damp so they can go to the dryer and after 3-4hrs will be dry, clothes are SOAKED, like there was no spin, water dripping of it, it is difficult to dry it even on the washing horse, because if you try to hang clothes like that, you will be wet like you had shower!

Thanks alot again!

P.S
What is your channel name on YouTube?

 

[dyson2drums]

Dyson washing machine:

Cottons 40oc for coloreds
Cottons 60oc for whites or 50oc if they're lightly soiled
Cottons 60oc for bedding and towels or 40oc as some nice looking duvet covers can't handle higher temperatures
Synthetics 40oc or 30oc for darks, jeans and quick washing
Wool 40oc or 30oc for woolens and
handwash rarely.

Take care

 

[hoover1100]

Jeans in the dryer

Fold them up as if you were putting them away in the drawer, I can guatantee you they will come out crease free!

You can wash them on any programme and spin them as fast and long as you like and this will work.

This is a tip I was given by our own Lavamat_Jon.

I always spin everything on the fastest and longest spin possible (except delicates), and wash most things on the cottons cycle.

I never have trouble with creasing.

The main thing that will cause creases is leaving clothes sitting in the washer or the dryer for long periods after the machine has finished. Shaking things out before putting them in the dryer helps too.

Hang up or fold immediately and you shouldn't have any problems.

Matt

 

[gorenje]

For me

Well...this are my loads I do in my 1971 gorenje PEA.
There are not many options since the machine is very old. In my previous gorenje I was able to change the programs as I wanted.

Towels and colored bad sheets - 60°C with powdered detergent and Calgon (water softener)

Darks and jeans - 40°C with liquid detergent (without Calgon)

"delicates" / synthetics / coloured underwear - 40°C with liquid detergent and Calgon

Whites - 95°C + prewash with powdered detergent and Calgon (somethimes @ 60°C, but I prefer a 95°C wash)

Wool - hand wash (I think my old machine would be too harsh for my woolens even if it's supposed to wash woolens)

There is no separate cycle for cottons and synthetics, only the temperature and the wash time changes from cycle to cycle and there is a button which turns off the spin after each rinse cycle and the final spin.
I have a separate spin dryer to spin the load befor put it in the dryer.
I don't iron almost nothing because my Bosch dryer realy does a very good job.
I love my old washer because it washes very well.

 

[nrones]

Thanks!

Interesting post from you (as I expected, because of so old washer )
Do you think Calgon is good? because I found it useless few years ago..

 

[solsburian]

@superelectronic:

I think you are right about it being perhaps a good idea on paper, no one else does a slim line washer dryer (as far as I know) which is perhaps saying something. Unfortunately we simply don't have the space for a separate tumble dryer as our Kitchen is very small and their is no where else to put it in our flat really. It's drying function is not that impaired which is more then can be said for the Servis Washer Dryer my partner had in their old flat!

@nrones:

There are some insights into Calgon in the link below.

http://www.washerhelp.co.uk/limescale_2.html#cl_q1

 

[paulc]

I am with Jon

I wash practically everything on cottons which has 1300 spin, I select water plus ( extra water in the wash and rinse phases) I sort as follows:

White Towels:- cottons, short, 50/60deg usually large load cycle time 90mins

Tea Towels and cleaning cloths:- cottons,short 60deg, usually 3 to 4kg, cycle time 59mins

White clothes:- cottons short, 40/50 deg depending on soil. Again usually 3 to 4kg, cycle time 59mins

Light colured clothes: cottons, short 40deg, 3 to 4kg, 59mins

Darks:- same as above.

Jumpers:- Usually express 40deg, cycle time 30 mins or 37 if extra rinse selected.

I have never had problems with creasing using the cottons wash, even on synthetic items but I never wash a full 6kg of clothes at a time.Towels...I fill the machine as full as possible. I don't have a dryer so in the winter the 1300rpm spin is a must! I usually fold stuff as it comes out of the machine and leave it an hour or so before I put it on the clothes horse. In the summer everything goes straight out on the line if it is not raining.

I have, at times, used the Demims ,Darks and Automatic programmes but have found the cottons does a better job in a shorter time using less water/detergent and has a faster spin.

Hope that wasn't too long winded for you all!!! NRONES, I have always had a bit of a soft spot for Candy machines, epecially from the 70's. I actually like the styling of the new machines. I couldn't really see the programmes on the pic you posted(need glasses I think!) but I think I'd probably use the cottons programmes the most. Does Candy still do the rapid 32 min wash at 50deg? I used to look after an old lady with a Candy machine from the 90's and that was the only programme she would let me use and I must say it did a good job if you sorted colours properly.

 

[nrones]

R32 - Some yes some not

Mostly new models that are coming out are having 14-30-44min (max 40c) but some models are still having classic 32 50c which does AWESOME job for a fastwash! really effective!

 

[gorenje]

@ nrones: To be honest I don't know if Calgon is so good.

I use it because in our region the water is hard and because I got used to use it in my previous new washer. I use it also because it increases the wash ability of the detergent....and because I'm so "obsessed" with cleanliness I think it's a good think. But honestly, perhaps is really something I wouldn't need to use.
Ingemar

 

[l86810]

Hi Dex! Welcome to the site!
What a great idea for a thread.

Mine are...

Towels:: Cotton 75oC with Water Plus and Extra Rinse. (Ariel Bio with Febreeze) 2h28
Bedding:: Minimum Iron 60oC with Short, Water Plus and Extra Rinse. (Ariel Bio with Febreeze) 1h10
Whites / Lights (general):: Automatic 40oC. (Ariel Bio with Febreeze) 1h18
Whites / Lights (nice):: Dark Garments 20oC-40oC (Ariel Excel Gel Bio) 1h15
Colours / Darks / Jeans:: Dark Garments 20oC with Short (Ariel Excel Gel Colour) 1h02
Acrylic or Wool / cardigans:: Wool 30oC (Woolite) 0h39

I, like Jon also split loads into general garments like work shirts, plain t-shirts, underwear, lounge wear etc, and then nicer stuff like branded t-shirts, going out shirts, jumpers with prints on etc

Adam

 

[superelectronic]

If only we could write a laundry manual....

It's always so refereshing to pick up a new piece of info from this site on laundry practices! Folding jeans in the dryer to avoid creasing for example...though would this not increase drying time and run the risk of wear lines where there are folds? Suppose maybe not if drying inside out as recommeded generally.

I envy those folks who say they have no issues with creasing. Maybe they don't wear so many shirts for work or something! The advice on reduced loads and temperatures does come from experience...if I follow instructions for my own washer and load a full 3kg of mixed fabrics (read poly cotton shirts etc) the creases are hellish, especially if I opt for 50C synthetics (40C synths is too short; 40C cottons is long enough but has a long spin).

Anyway, just for the record, my regular programmes are:

60C Cottons for whites (this is without fail; don't have any delicate whites)
50C Synthetics or 40C Cottons for light colours
ditto for darks but sometimes I will use 40C synthetics if I'm feeling careful
Very occasionally I will use Wool for delicate jumpers
Quick wash for the odd random item or two
From time to time I use 60C cottons for lights if they are robust (cotton duvet covers, pale sheets, the oven glove and so on)...ok, scraping the barrel now!

Here's a pic of my controls...the programmes based on the ITCL symbols and (for those who don't know):
shower = rinse
spiral = spin
intermittant spiral = short spin
P = prewash
->-> = quick wash

Super Rinse is on for most loads unless they're small, especially on the synthetics cycles that have only 3 rinses (cottons have 4). Maybe not totally necessary but I think it's easier on the clothes - more cushioning.

PS have some more material on the Hoover OPH616 now and will post a new thread...just for the hell of it! And Dex, apologies - I have no YouTube account due to lack of appropriate video-making technology!

 

[ronhic]

Ok, well it seems most of us 'front load' jockeys tend to use similar cycles - who'd have thought

So here are mine...all with either OMOmatic, DRIVEmatic or every now and then SURFmatic (yes, I know....it really should be OMO Front Loader/HE, but it'll ALWAYS BE OMOMATIC...) and no softener under any circumstances...

Sheets/towels - cotton 60c, quick - 1hr 15min
Whites - cotton 40/60c, quick - 1hr 8min or 1hr 15min
colours - cotton 40c, quick - 1hr 8min
Dogs bedding - synthetic 30c, quick - 44min

Every now and then I use the wool cycle...

As you can see from the fuzzy picture below (UK fans) the machine looks, and is, the same as the first ones sold under the 'John Lewis' label and made by Zanussi/Electrolux for them....

It's been great really. I've had the hinge side suspension replaced 18months ago and that is it...not bad for a machine that averaged 20 loads a week for the first 3yrs of its life (2006-2009) and is still doing 11.....

 

[nrones]

Cool

Thanks for all your reply"s!
Well, mostly people use similar programmes

@superelectronic
What happend to OPH616? why is it "hell"?

 

[hoover1100]

SuperElectronic

About the jeans, no they don't get wear marks and they dont take longer to dry. They come unfolded after a few revolutions anyway. Don't ask me how it works, I have no idea, it just does *lol*

I've just come to the conclusion now that some fabrics will crease and others won't, and there really is nothing you can do about it much. My Dad's expensive pure cotton work shirts crease like hell, but they crease just as badly whether washed on cottons 60 or synthetics 40, and whether spun on a full 1200 cottons spin, or a short 600 synthetics spin. I used to do bedsheets, shirts, anything that creased on sythetics 40 with 600 spin in an effort to minimise creases, but it really made no difference.

Same with the dryer, tumble drying or line drying, it makes no difference if you do it properly (i.e. shake things out and hang them up neatly, or use low heat in the dryer and don't allow them to overdry)

At the end of the day, some things WILL need to be ironed, no matter what, it just depends how fussy you are about having creased clothes as to which clothes you will have to iron.

Matt[this post was last edited: 12/29/2010-12:56]

 

[nrones]

Same conclusion from me!

I just did a programme that SuperElectronic suggested me (Synthtetics 30 with easy iron option). Some clothes just creased some not.. ones that don"t crease on normal wash, didn"t creased now.. ones that crease, remained creased... there was no one thing that was more/less creased.. So I will have to accept that somethings will need to be ironed!