question on ge ff outer tub

[doug]

just wondering what this coating was that someone used on their ge ff outer tub, and how did they apply it. I think i need to put a coating of something on my outer tub for the rust. here is a pic of the tub someone put a coating of something on, if anyone recognizes it could u let me know what u used?

 

[DigAPony]

Looks like POR-15.

 

[yogitunes]

Gentlemen, we have the technology to rebuild him

actually glad your bringing a thread up about this stuff....

my sister has sold her house and offered me her 1987 GE FilterFLo, a beautiful MOL model on the outside, I don't know what the hell went on inside in all these years, the filter flo alone barely dribbled....I know about 7 years ago, I have the paperwork, he had service practicaly rebuild this machine, new motor, new clutch(don't know why, but the clutch is now a one speed), belt, pump, tranny, agitator, pan and dispenser.....the reason for the service call in the first place, and again, was a leak!....apparently the inner tub under the fill flume has developed a hole.....and this crackpot of a repairman used something like silly putty caulk and globbed it on the outside of the tub, I thought it was a bees nest of some sort.....

so on to the fix...the fact of the layers of mold, mildew, gunk, scum, what ever you want to call it that stuck to everything is being delt with, I can;t get the splash shield clean.....I feel so sorry for this machine, I must bring it back to life, pics to horrible to show you guys, anyon else would proabably scrap this thing.......

anywho.....with some auto repair fiberglas cloth and clear epoxy, from the outside of the outter tub, I applied and glued down the fiberglas to seal the hole.....all is well and fine.....and another patch on the inside as well, all other ports and openings I used clear sealant and covered all bases for potential leaks as well.....once dried after a few days, I used "FlexSeal" spray coating on the whole interior of the outter tub, and the outside area of the patch spreading out about 4 inches past the repair......

so far, so good.....no leaks, water stays inside machine, were onto putting outselves back together.....step by step.....since this origianlly had a tranny leak, and oil/sludge thrown everywhere, thought it was best to remove the motor and spray degreaser and powerwash the whole underside, starting to look like his ole self again....I actually thought this machine was almond when I got it, but its back to white now.....

one of the base snubber/rubber/clamp is missing of the lower rear, so I have to locate one of them.....still a work in progress......just not sure I could pass this on to another member knowing what it started out as...

not sure I want to return it to a two-speed....that single speed non-slip lockup has some KICK ASS washing going on for a large capacity machine!

I know....a lengthly story.....but if a hole is started, it can be repaired, but I am also thinking of my other ones, of opening them up, and spraying "FlexSeal" at least around the upper part of the outter tub as a "bumper" before any damage may occur in the future....

 

[gansky1]

Gotta get some of that Flex-Seal, I'd forgotten about it until you mentioned it again now, looks like a great product.

How do you think it will bond with the porcelain, Martin? If it's durable enough, I would love it for coating the insides of the old, cast (pot-metal) pumps to keep them from corroding over time.

 

[doug]

Ok thanks but has anybody ever applied Poe-15? Looks like there's a lot of steps to applying it. I don't know how the flex seal will hold up in a washer.

 

[turquoisedude]

It's easier than it seems, but please be sure that you are working in a very well-ventilated place and wear gloves. POR15 will bond to skin just as well as it bonds to metal!

 

[DigAPony]

Looks like there's a lot of steps to applying it.

Actually, it gets brushed on right over the rust.

Supposedly it adheres better to rough surfaces. I usually sand or wire brush first but I'm a perfectionist to a fault with some things.

Gloves are a must unless you don't mind black paint stains on your skin for several weeks.

 

[doug]

Ok yea I was just wondering, I checked out some YouTube videos and they said u have to appy the degreaser then the metal prep then put the actual por 15 paint on. Someone also said u have to wear a gas mask? I was thinking maybe some jb weld on the bad rust spots instead of doin the por 15 bc I need my washer lol, so idk I'm really undecided.

 

[pdub]

I also have found out the hard way that POR-15 won't bond well over porcelain or bare shiny metal. So if you have rust through porcelain and have to coat over both surfaces the POR eventually starts peeling off the shiny parts unless they are roughed up first.

I too am anxious to try this flex-seal on an outer tub. Once it's all back together I hope it holds up because I don't want to disassemble again just to see if it's working.

 

[yogitunes]

for one thing with the FlexSeal.....you have to have ventilation as well, and let it dry for a few days, for the upper part of the outter tub, I applied a second coat.....only time will tell how well it holds up.....

this is my second attempt with this stuff, the first one I just did the upper inside part of an outter tub, about half way down, just to cover a few scrapes before it got worse.....that was over a year ago, and the filterflo is still running, of course I have not had the chance to opened it and see if it is still attached...

the can claims to seal and bond to anything......for the most part it does.....but to spray it on a leaking pipe, and have it stop the leak right away....that ain't happening........it needs to be left alone to dry and seal for a few days....

I think this stuff would be good for deck steps, ramps, and such areas for slip/skid resistance....just a thought

my brother has used this stuff as a coating in the back of one of his makeshift trailers.....thru everything he hauls in it, plus out in the weather, it seems to be holding up....I was expecting it to be scratched/scraped away over certain areas

 

[doug]

Ok here's what I'm actually doing, I was goin to fix some rust while I was in the process of transferring a newer transmission into my filter flo and putting the tranny that came out of mine into the other filter flo. I was able to get 2 of the tub bolts out then the 3rd gave me trouble. I tried almost everything u could think of to bring the bolt out pb blaster and everything. Nothing would work so I had to drill it out "just to remind u this was in my daily driver filter flo" ok then i went to take the tub out of the other filter flo that has the newer tranny in it and the top of 1 of the bolts broke right off so there for the rest of the bolt is stuck in the threads, I guess ill have to drill this one out also. The whole reason I wanted to transfer the tranny's is bc I bought the tranny new about 3 to 4 yrs ago and wanted to put it in my daily driver bc the tranny in my daily driver has a problem, the agotator hold down is worn completely off idk if there is a way to replace this or what but i looked it up online n didnt see any results on how or if u even can replace the agitator hold down. So I got as far as taking the tub out and the newer tranny has a problem also besides the bolt broke off, it had some yellow oil around the top of the tranny. Idk if it will even be worth transferring them now bc I'm afraid of oil getting on our clothes. We had that problem with a ff that we had when I was a kid. Sorry for such a long and complicated story I just know when there is a problem with appliances this is the best way to get the advice ill upload some pics to show u guys the tranny's.

 

[doug]

Pic #1

This is the tranny in my daily driver, as u can see the agitator hold down is completely worn down and when I have a small load in the agitator pops up.

 

[doug]

Pic #2

This is the newer tranny, u can barely see the yellow oil, there r 2 run spots 1 on the right and 1 in the front. And u can see the difference in the agitator hold downs.

 

[yogitunes]

Doug

I think you may be a little confused, and hope I can clear this up for you, or maybe I am the one confused.....

in pic1 you say the agitator hold down is worn...actually its missing, do you have this?. or is it stuck inside the agitator?.....

in pic2, the hold down is there, these just slide up off the post with a tug from a pair of needlenose pliers......theres also a small rubber washer in the top portion that will allow adjustment of the agitators clearance at the bottom of the tub...
you should be able to pull the hold down off the one, and slide it on to the other, it pops in place along that groove...

pop open your control panel....theres instructions and detail pics of this hold down, and how to make adjustments, yours may just be worn, but usually once the agitator is popped in place, the inside of the agitator also snugs around to keep it taught....if this makes sense to you...you wil want to coat these areas with light grease or vaseline, makes it easier to install and remove...

theres also other info....like how long it should take for your pump to empty the tub...if working correctly......and proper height of your inner tub....

odd also, beause one of mine doesn't have the hold down, and doesn't rise during any level....then again, this is a ramped activator, and by design the stroke is pushing it downward.....

worst case scenario......drill a small hole in top of the tranny post, and with a small washer and self setting screw, you can bolt it down, and snap the cap over top to hide everything......at least thats what the last of the filterflos were doing from the factory...

let us know if we can help further.....

 

[doug]

Great thanks so much this helps a lot! I'm just a little confused about the part when u said u can adjust the height of the agitator from the bottom of the tub?

 

[yogitunes]

Doug

pop open one of your control panels and take a look at that tech sheet, it will explain it with ease, if my scanner would work, I would put up one of mine, theres flat rubber washers inside that top section that allow adjustments, a small screwdriver or tweezers will pull them out....

 

[doug]

Ok thanks a lot ill have to do that, I'm away for the weekend ill update next week when I start the project back up.

 

[doug]

Is the upper seal on a ge ff washer tranny hard to replace? Any comments? I'd like to keep the tranny I bought new about 4 yrs ago, this is the one that I noticed two spots of yellow oil running out.

 

[combo52]

GE FF Transmissions

Hi Doug, the difference in the rubber agitator hold-down collars from your two different pictures is that the first picture is missing the upper part of the hold-down collar.

 

The oil leak you pictured below the basket mounting flange can be fixed, but beware that when a GE FF transmission is leaking in this area water may have all ready filled the transmission and the oil may be floating out around a bad seal and a complete transmission rebuild is in order to save it, Good Luck, John.