Questions about bath towels....

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I have a set of bath towels (extra-large, bath "sheets") that I routinely wash in hot in the Neptune 7500. That means over 125F. I can squeeze in five such, no more than that, or it has trouble spinning.

They seemed to be getting a bit rough, although the water here is generally considered to be on the soft side. I did a load of five with a cup of distilled vinegar, 15 minute wash, Not surprisingly, there was a bit of sudsing. Not a lot, but definitely visible. No rinse or spin, just drain. Then I repeated the hot cycle with a cup of baking soda. Just a drain, no spin. After that I washed them with the usual HE liquid, and no fabric softener.

At the end, after tumble drying they *seemed* to be a bit softer than those I hadn't washed, but the difference was quite slight.

YMMV
 
@appnut

There is considerable debate about use of vinegar in domestic washing machines.

Some strongly defend the practice saying amount of household vinegar (5% acidity) which should be small, then given amount of water it will be diluted in for rinse cycle shouldn't cause problems.

OTOH there are those including professionals who say *no* to any sort of vinegar or worse, commercial laundry products in domestic washing machines.

It comes down from what one has read to difference between industrial/commercial washing machines and domestic.

The latter are made from metals and other substances designed to withstand repeated and frequent exposure to the powerful acids and base substances used in such laundering.

Domestic washing machines OTOH are made from "soft" metals and other bits (like rubber) that can be harmed by exposure to strong acids or bases.

If you notice packets of washing machine cleaners that are acidic always call for using in main wash cycle, then followed by one or more rinses. This one supposes brings down pH level on interior surfaces by using fresh water which should be at or near neutral pH.

It isn't just vinegar, but citric or any other acid is on that no-no list as well.

https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner...-machine-citric-acid-to-clean-washing-machine

https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner...ing-cleaning-the-washing-machine-with-vinegar

https://www.consumerreports.org/cle...r-clean-with-vinegar-distilled-white-vinegar/

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2414961/don-t-use-vinegar-in-your-washing-machine

Interestingly am reading in more and more owner manuals for at least European H-axis washing machines that long as a good (preferably powder) detergent is used in proper dosing, use of separate limescale removing products aren't necessary.

https://www.yourspares.co.uk/advice/limescale-in-washing-machine-.aspx
 
To some extent most washing machine "cleaners" contain some sort of acid. However what makers know and most end users do not is that complex formula of product means it is buffered to a pH that shouldn't harm washing machine parts.

Bosch, Miele and others who sell such products know what range pH of water at proper dilution (when product is used as directed) will be. Something that will elude domestic users simply pouring various amounts of different acids do not.

https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/was...ashing-machine-cleaners-compared-a0CIG8G4tDOD

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-00311925-Washing-Machines-Cleaner/dp/B07MJHJ19W
 
I have run smaller amounts of vinegar in lieu of fabric softener in the Neptune MAH 7500 multiple times in the past, and haven't experienced any problems with component damage. So I don't think the rubber components have been adversely affected, nor any of the metal part (which appear to be good quality stainless steel). After I saw posts here warning that vinegar as a fabric softener might do damage, I stopped using it. But given my positive experience I might resume its usage, although I'm also not sure it's necessary. A few ounces in the final rinse likely will not leave any harmful acidity in the machine anyway.

For loads other than towels I usually add a TBS STPP, and generally I use a liquid HE detergent (currently the excellent Kirkland Ultra Clean HE Liquid); I use enough to produce a very thin layer of suds.
 
So we Shouldn't question if bleach will harm a rubber boot, bleach being something poisonous to all life,
but we SHOULD question vinegar?

Vinegar is something we can freely ingest, and do when eating pickles or other such foods.

I keep white vinegar in a spray bottle to use for all types of eco-friendly cleaning and personal hygiene. When flossing I will use a spray of vinegar to rinse my mouth as a mild antiseptic.
 
Do I have to explain to you the difference between consuming foods soaked in brine versus drinking straight vinegar? Go ahead, drink a glass of white or apple cider vinegar and report back.

And for your further information chlorine bleach is not some benign substance; it can in many instance harm certain washing machine parts. Many makers of European washing machines do not recommend use of it, or only in limited manner.

Some have had to give in to chlorine bleach use as Americans love the stuff, and use copious amounts yearly for laundry purposes. OTOH in Europe eau de Javel long has been known for the damage it can cause textiles and other issues. Hence their preference for oxygen bleaching at high or boiling water temperatures.

Am not seeking to start WWIII over this matter; if anyone wants to use vinegar, citric acid, hydrochloric acid, or anything else can get hands on, knock yourselves out....
 
Preach it/Sing it Launderess!!

I haven't used LCB since getting my Duet December 2011 with it's Allergen and Sanitize wash temperatures combined with Tide Powder w/Bleach Alternative. European approach all the way!! Gimme a washer with an onboard heater any day. Far more civilized!!! And my garments that used to require LCB are lasting much longer.
 
Let's see Laundrest:

1) A cup of vinegar diluted with about five gallons of water isn't going to corrode anything any time soon. And probably would be quite drinkable.

2) Vinegar is basically 5% acetic acid, and as such far less aggressive, say, than hydrochloric acid. Which by the way, our tummies (even yours!) produce to help digest foods.

3) I used to like to take a swig of vinegar after dining out at Chinese restaurants. Seemed to help with digestion. And amazed my dinner companions.

4) Vinegar is what makes a good salad dressing rock. Hasn't killed anybody yet, AFAIK.

5) Your mileage, no matter how pedestrian, may vary.

6) Agree about chlorine bleach. Only use it for disinfection outside the washer. And then, quite rarely. In the washer, oxygen bleach, if needed, works quite well. And STPP works as well for lifting stains from fabrics.
 
I use chlorine bleach for two wash loads, white underwear, and kitchen rags. 

For the underwear load, I add 1/2 a cup to 18 gallons of water, and the elastic on my Hanes briefs lasts for years. 

For the kitchen rag load I use 1/2 cup of bleach to 8 gallons for kitchen safety.

 

Bath towels get washed in warm with about 2/3 of a regular dose of detergent, and no fabric softener.  I used to use a tiny bit of softener on the towels, but I ran out of it one time and realized that I don't really need it.

[this post was last edited: 3/20/2021-10:20]
 
 

 

Well, these days I use 3/4 cups of Arial, 1/2 cup of Borax, 1/2 A&H Washing Soda using a warm water Normal wash.

The rinse is 15 minutes long using warm water and 2 caps full of <span style="font-size: 12pt;">Lysol Laundry Sanitizer and 2 unscented Bounce sheets in the dryer. The towels are very absorbent with a light scent of Lysol.</span>
 
Ran across this video on accidently last year and I'm still somewhat gobsmacked. I'm 60 years old and I never knew that there was a proper way to fold bath towels. Serious!! All I knew was that the towels in hotels were sooo nice smelling and clean and folded nicely. So I tried folding them the correct way one day and found I had more room in my cabinets. No one ever taught how to fold towels, sheets yes, but not towels.



Barry
 
Almost the way I've been folding the bath towels, but I've been folding lengthwise in half first, instead in thirds. I'll have to try the thirds and see if that saves space.

I've been keeping the cleaned bath towels in a spare laundry basket in the bath, but the cat has decided that's a perfect napping spot. So I'll probably start moving them into the bathroom cabinet, after I clear that out. And yes, I'll leave the spare basket in the bath with some old pillows so the cat doesn't rebel.
 
Folding the towels in thirds first makes them fit into the rectangular hamper much better.

These are large towels, called bath sheets. So I appreciate the info that led me to a better way to fold them.
 
Gary, that may be true on a shelf, but folding them in half probably results in them taking up just as much if not more space in the storage hamper, because then they ride up the sides.
 
I’ve been folding then this way for 50 years.  When they are folded in thirds they hang on the towel bars or rings nicer too, and the works already done before you hang them.  

 

And yes they do take more room height wise on the shelf, but I can get the hand towels and bath towels side by side in our linen closet and this way they are stacked together in order.  Makes rotation easier too.  The freshest laundered towels go at the bottom of the stack and the next set to be used is the set on top of the stack.   

 

Eddie

[this post was last edited: 4/4/2021-21:37]
 
Eddie,

Your method of storing towels is the same as what I do...fresh laundered on the bottom and next to be used on top with the bath and hand towels side by side. I guess I have too many towels because when I tried folding them in thirds I couldn't fit them all on the shelf whereas folding them in half, I can just make them fit LOL

Gary
 
Gary,

Our linen closet is a little narrow but deep,  the shelves do accommodate hand and bath towels folded in thirds side by side, I just keep two rows of them with one stack of hand and bath towels in the back and another in the front.  The rotation requires a little juggling because the most freshly laundered towels go in the back with the one laundered before in the front.   

 

Eddie

ea56-2021040519052306283_1.jpg
 
Eddie,

Unfortunately my linen closet is shallow so I can only fit one column of bath towels on the right side and then the face cloths in a column on the back left and the hand towels on the front left. If I triple folded I would probably only be able to store half as many towels.

Gary
 
My towels are sufficiently soft without softener

I only have white towels, I always wash them on Bulky/Bedding cycle in my Kenmore (LG) front loader on hot with two rinses. I wash with Arm & Hammer or Huracan 40 powder and bleach. Sometimes I'll substitute the powder for liquid Persil, which makes them smell like they've been laundered at a chain hotel (I love that institutional starchy smell of chain hotels). Water softness at my place is so/so.

I have never used fabric softener for towels, let alone anything else. I do like the smell of Downy but I've heard of no positives of using it or any other LFS. I think thorough rinses is key for soft laundry.
 
My towels have been cleaner than ever ever since getting the SQ. Lots of hot water and a generous tub of water to rinse in seems to be the key for me. I have about 8 white towels and 10 colored towels so they get split into 3 loads typically. The white towels I use whatever detergent I'm in the mood for at the time (usually Persil and lately, powdered Tide) and some Oxyclean. The Oxyclean seems sufficient in keeping them bright white, no need for LCB. They get dried on high in the SQ and come out fluffy. I rarely use fabric softener as I don't care for the greasy feel. I have noticed hotel towels being soft without that greasy feeling so it doesn't surprise me they have better quality softeners to work with.
 
My mom used to wash my dad’s work towels and her BOL Maytag A106 washer was the perfect washer to them in…

I asked her about putting fabric softener in its dispenser but she said not to because it would affect their absorbency…

Around that time, I had a coworker who had a neighbor who had a wringer washer she used only for washing her husband’s work clothes in, much the same way…

— Dave
 
Makes a huge difference what quality the towels

That is the truth.

I picked up some high quality vintage Made in U.S.A. Cannon bath towels at an Estate Sale that are in excellent condition despite being at least 30 years old. Heavy yet soft cotton that just last and lasts. Paid a big $1 each..

Other bath towels I've purchased new retail are rough, faded and falling apart after a few years of regular use.

Same goes for the average quality of bed linens these days.
 
soft towels, ozone, lemon juice and Betty White

Residual detergents left in cotton towels can give them a stiffness, that is undesirable. With so many of today's poor rinsing washers, it is no wonder people complain of stiff towels.

After the washer completes its first cycle, with a load of towels, I run them through another entire cycle without detergent...with the washer set for warm rinse.

I also learned a little trick from Betty White (GOD bless her) on The Mary Tyler Moors Show. Recall the episode where Lou spends the night with Sue Ann Nivens. Sue Ann, the next morning, returns Lou's socks, which he had left, and tells him that she rinsed them in Lemon juice so they would be fresh smelling.

I tried it and it works wonderfully. I put about 2/3 cup of lemon juice in the next to last rinse for all my laundry. It smells better than vinegar, helps to neutralize the alkalinity of any residual detergent, clothes feel soft and there is a very slight lemony freshness. Seems to help with my allergy to detergents as well. My towels are soft and fluffy.

Thank you, Betty White.

As far as Ultra-Violet light. My mother's 1960 or 61 one Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII washer had that same UV light. Being about five or six years old, I don't recall if our clothes were particularity fresh smelling because of the ozone. They may have been. Not all UV lamps produce ozone. I believe Whirlpool used the same lamp that Pollenex did it its table-top "air purifiers" of the day. People called them "ozone lamps" lamps as opposed to ultraviolet maps or bulbs..

I do recall my dad explaining ultra-violet light to me, when I asked him about what the blue light in the dryer was for. He explained how UV light works (as best you can to a five/six year old). He also told me UV light, from the sun, is also what makes one tan.

If the door of our Whirlpool was opened. interrupting the dry cycle, the UV light stayed on. When there were no clothes in the dryer, I would start the cycle then open the door and put my head in the dryer with my face close to bulb....hoping I would get a tan, ha. I had no idea how long it took, I guess I thought it was instant. I also didn't know this bulb was not producing UV-A or UV-B rays, so at best I was just disinfecting my face, and breathing ozone.

Interesting thing about UV, it's a totally different animal in various areas of its spectral range. At some areas in the spectra it produces no ozone, others areas it does produce ozone, and in other areas it actually destroys ozone. About 240 to 280 manometers, UV light will break the bond of the third oxygen atom in the ozone molecule and liberate it, leaving an O2 oxygen molecule.

UV light can tan, it can kill even antibiotic resistant bacteria, it can create ozone, or it can actually destroy ozone. Very versatile. What it does i solely dependent on where it is at in the spectrum.
 
Being at short range to a UV lamp-esp one that generates UVA,UVB and UVC as those ozone-germicidal lamps do WILL damage your eyes!Germicidal lamps can be a weapon agaist Covid and other viruses and bacteria-and spores.The lamps can be put into return air intakes on HVAC systems.They will destroy any viruses,bacteria and spores in the air.Filters CANNOT trap these particles since thay are too small.The UVC lights can destroy them.The radiation ruptures the outer protein "skins" on these-killing them.
 
Mine get washed at a high temperature 75°C, Twin Dos detergent and a splash of Comfort Pure (Unilever) and they seem to come out absolutely perfect dried in a heat pump dryer.

Temperature of wash seems to be a big deal for towels and using a little blast of peroxide bleach.

Comfort Pure is a low scent, hypoallergenic, concentrated conditioner/softener that I find isn’t gloopy. I’m not a fan of P&G’s ‘Lenor’ which is the equivalent of Downy here. I find it leaves a sort of weird texture to the clothes and their scents are just too strong for me - totally overwhelmed by them.

Lenor range: https://www.lenor.co.uk/en-gb/fabric-softener
 

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