RCA Whirlpool matching washer/dryer set

[sudsmaster]

I will take some photos at this juncture - the agitator and wash basket are removed, next step is the outer tub. The process is very similar to what Robert has already posted in his restoration of the '57 Kenmore, except I'm probably not going to drop the tranny.

 

[sudsmaster]

OK, got the outer tub out - the worst part was removing the hose clamps on the recirculating filter fitting to the tub.

There is more rust to be found... one of the mounting holes has an extra hole due to rust-through. I think I can fix it with some JB Weld (epoxy plastic weld), and maybe a larger rubber washer and stainless washer (the ones I got with the repair kit are almost big enough). There are also what look like rust specks elsewhere in the bottom of the inside of the outer tub... I will see if I can use Jasco rust renovator on them (as long as it doesn't damage the remaining porcelain.

The alternative is to look for a replacement outer tub (unlikely) or have the hole welded up and the tub re-porcelainized. I work with welders so that's no problem, but the re-porcelainizing might be tricky; I don't know of any shops in the area that do that. Since this washer will see only occasional use, I'm thinking the JB Weld is the way to go.

The base plate has rust in areas where there was leakage from above; the worst will be treated with Jasco, and the the entire base plate will get a brush-on coat Rustoleam fish oil red rust preventative primer. I will treat the inside of the cabinet with the Rustoleum red primer also. I might omit the top coat since the red primer needs to age quite a while before it will allow a coat of paint to really stick, and it will never been seen once the washer is assembled.

The drive block came of very easily, so I think it can be re-used no problem. The centerpost is heavily rusted between 1 inch and four inches up. The top still has its chrome plating. I chipped away the worst of the rust, the rest will get the Jasco treatment. Fortunately there's still good chrome and smoot paint where the center seal "donut" will seat. And there was no sign of leakage past the center seal. I will have to mask off these areas when I get out the Jasco, since it eats paint.

If anyone knows where I can get a replacement outer tub...

 

[sudsmaster]

Wash drum removed, view of top of chassis and inner tub.

 

[sudsmaster]

Wash basket

 

[sudsmaster]

Center post with drive block still in place. Note the "mud" collected on the "cone" of the outer tub.

 

[rickr]

I have had holes in the tub welded, then clean the area VERY well, and coat it with epoxy.

Use POR-15 on the center post, and it will be fine. You can order a can of that online.

The threaded basket drive deal has to come off, before you can pull the outer tub.

I burn the center seal with a torch, when the seal doesn't want to let loose from the center post. There is a metal ring in the original, but not in the replacement.

Have fun cleaning that mess up. <: I use a scraper, then steel wool.

Cool pixs! Thanks for sharing.

 

[sudsmaster]

Rick,

The drive block came off very easily. I just used a ball peen hammer to tap it out, there was no problem.

Pulling the tub was a different matter. The tub to base plate bolts were a challenge. The one in the front was no problem, but on most of the other three I had to use a 1/4" impact wrench to break the bolts free. In one case I had to use the wrench with a long extension on the nut, and then a very large long screwdriver on the screw, and I was just able to hold both and break the nut free.

Then the tub itself didn't want to come out. I figured it was stuck on the center tube, so by spraying lots of WD40 on it, and turning it back and forth as I pulled up and rocked on it, it finally came out.

I'm not too worried about the hole next to the tub bolt. I think JBWeld will be able to hold it pretty good, especially if I follow that up with an oversize rubber washer backed by an oversize fender washer. I think I may even have some stainless ones in the shop somewhere. The tiny rust specks in part of the inside bottom of the tub are another worry. Kind of weird that they are there at all. Some of them came off with scraping, revealing good porcelain underneath, so I'm not entirely sure if they are rust or some sort of deposit. In any case, I may be on the lookout for a BOL Whirlpool standard machine of that era, so I can pull the tub and use it to replace this one, someday. It would be interesting to see how the repairs hold up...

 

[gyrafoam]

Looks like you are going through what I went through restoring my '59 'Kenmo.
The center post looked just like yours.
I used LOTS of POR-15---after sanding away all the rust.
Oh, and aren't you lucky to get the tub right out----I had to stand in mine and pull and pound for hours to get it out!

I'm sure when you are through you will have a great set. They certainly do look nice.
Don't forget to laquer that bad-boy Surgilator. It can dry and set-up while you replace all the other stuff, and will be ready to go---looking like new for your first run after restoration!

Best wishes!

 

[rickr]

small rust spots in the tub

Hey Suds, Happy New Year!

I finished up at 56 Kenmore this fall. It came from a junkyard, and was in very poor condition. Someone had placed a leaky car battery on the console, and the battery acid ran down through the machine, and laid in the tub until it evaporated. The tub really took a beating, but I was able to save it.
I cleaned it up, and removed the rust, then poured a large tube of mixed epoxy at the rear of the tub. Spread it around there where the acid had done the damage,a nd let it dry for several days. It has worked out very well. Been using the machine since October. Pulled the spin basked out on xmas eve day, just to see what was going on in there. Everything looks just fine. These belt drive machines tend to leave a bit of water at the rear of the tub anyway, so it just sits there as the drain is at the left front corner. Chances are, even if you find a doner machine, the tub may look like yours, or perhaps be even worse.
I have pixs of the restored tub, but they have not been processed yet.

 

[sudsmaster]

Gyrafoam,

Thanks. What sort of lacquer will stand up to modern detergents and hot water? Is there a recommended brand?

And what exactly is POR-15 (not that I will not soon look it up on Google... ;-)

Rickr,

What type of epoxy did you use? I have been thinking of using an epoxy type concrete floor paint to treat the tub. If it will stand up to auto traffic/solvents it should be ok with laundry.

 

[sudsmaster]

More restoration photos...

I moved the parts under the carport (where they join other vintage appliances awaiting restoration/installation)...

 

[sudsmaster]

The washer base plate got a good coat of Rust Destroyer primer, as well as the inside the cabinet. I will follow this up with a coat of Rustoleum Industrial Gray enamel.

 

[sudsmaster]

The tub ring was just as filthy as the one Robert found in the farm field Lady Kenmore. I finally had to resort to Zud to get out the hard water stains. But it worked!

 

[rickr]

Yo Suds!

Doing a great job Suds! I hate rust, a dirty tub, or tub ring. Gross! I don't want any of that shit next to my skin, or staining clothes.

I just used the regular epoxy glue, the large twin syringe type. But I am sure the epoxy paint would work well too. The main thing to remember, is to CLEAN the surface, so the epoxy will stick to it. I clean it VERY well, then use paint thinner to remove any greasy film, so the epoxy can bond well.

At the rate your going, you will be learning to love the classic belt drives, before you know it.
Can't wait to see the lighted maiden wash!

 

[volvoguy87]

Epoxy

I am in the Historic Preservation business and I use epoxy to repair all sorts of things, especially rotten window sashes. I like Abatron epoxy, it is a bit pricy, but worth it. I can make it look like the epoxy repair doesn't even exist, but I always tell people its there. If you use epoxy, just be certain you remove all of the offending material, such as wood rot or rust, before you apply the epoxy. Clean is the name of the game.

Nice work, keep it up,
Dave

 

[spinout]

A note on an often overlooked aspect of WP/Kenmore rebuilds.

I would highly recommend that while you have this apart, that you replace the 6 (total) rubber suspension balls located at the end of each rod. This will tighten up the suspension and usually eliminate centering problems. It's inexpensive and easy to do and you will be rewarded with less unbalance trips. (These balls do wear and take a set over time.)

 

[sudsmaster]

I'll see if my local parts store stocks good balls. Thanks for the tip.

 

[gyrafoam]

POR-15 has a dedicated website where you can order directly from the factory or you can find out where you can purchase it locally.

It is typically found on the shelves of those firms that supply automotive body shop supplies.
I am thinking it is just another brand name for the rust destroyer primer you are currently using.

As for the laquer I use the "Rustoleum" brand in the spray can. I usually get it at "Blowes" but I'm sure it is obtainable elsewhere.
Label reads:"Crystal Clear Enamel".

It does slowly wear off, but the agitators I sprayed years ago are still looking new, and the stuff is so cheap----if I end up re-spraying it is not a big deal.

Your restoration project is looking good!

 

[Unimatic1140]

Rich, what a beautiful find!!! I'm so glad you got these, you are going to enjoy them so much, I just love Turquoise!

And great Restoration job and pictures!!! By the way, for future reference, the nice thing about POR-15 (POR stands for "Paint Over Rust") is you paint right over the rust, as it does not stick very well to metal that is not rusted. I used POR-15 on my '57 Lady Kenmore and it worked perfectly.

 

[sudsmaster]

Gyro,

Thanks, I found the POR-15 website. It probably is rather similar to other rust preventative primers like Rust Destroyer, but I think it's a separate company. You never know. There seem to be a lot of so-called rust renovator type of paint primers. And some work better than others. Common to all, however, is the need for proper surface prep.

I will look for the Rustoleum "Crystal Clear Lacquer". I googled "Bakelite Lacquer" and learned that there actually is a type of lacquer made of liquid Bakelite. It's apparently used to coat electrical wiring, etc. However I was unable to find any purveyor of such a substance. I suspect it's a bit toxic. Also, I learned that the filler in Bakelite could be wood flour, or asbestos. So I will be careful when I handle the agitator, and I don't think I'll be sanding or grinding it much .

Robert,

Thanks. I didn't think I cared much for turquoise, but once I saw this pair the whole effect was a bit magical. They would probably look good in my pale green patio kitchen... And thanks for having posted all the photos of your Lady Kenmore restoration. It helped a lot to see your descriptions of the various parts.

The part about bearing/spin tube/seal replacement was good. I wasn't planning on doing that this go-round. There is slight play in the agitator shaft. I don't know if this is normal or not. There is no sign of water intrusion, though, as black grease is readily visible, and the washer seemed to have a normal sound signature during my one test of it.

This was the first time I've pulled an agitator, wash basket, and tub. I was really surprised at the hard water mineral precipitate that coated the underside of the wash basket cone and the bottom of the outer tub. I blame it all on the phase-out of phosphates in laundry detergents - which has left consumers with little choice but to use washing soda (sodium carbonate), which we all know will form a nasty precipitate with minerals. There was this yucky light gray layer of clay-type mud, and then what really was like a thin layer of "cement" underneath it. In some areas I was able to chip the precipitate "cement" away by sliding a single edge razor under the edge - it came up in big flakes. In other areas it's stuck fast and I think only a harsh acid treatment (like Zud or muriatic) would dissolve it. And of course those treatments will also attack the vitrified enamel coating.