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lordkenmore

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...with this Proctor-Silex iron. Made during the Smith-Corona years.

 

It's not in great shape, but then it was priced at next to zero at a thrift shop. I haven't tested it yet, except to see that it does appear to heat. I hope it will work well enough to be a daily driver that I won't have to worry about getting scratched. If not, well, charity got a few cents....

lordkenmore++9-24-2011-10-46-1.jpg
 
Those SCM Proctor-Silex irons are quite nice, my grandmother won one of those for top sales in Avon in the mid 70's and just started using it about 13 years ago, it gets regular use and performs well, I also used to have a Wards Signature badged version of this iron and loved it until I dropped it and broke the handle
 
The question is, does it get hot enough?

We bought an iron in the later 70's/early 80's. One of those newer lightweigh jobs.
It would just not get hot enough to press cotton shirts. We took it back and the sales lady told us that due to fire prevention efforts the government has restricted how hot irons can get, so all new irons will be like that. Has anyone here heard of that?

We came across an old GE iron and used that for about 15 years until we got our EuroPro iron. It heats up like the old GE did. You can now speed through shirt ironing!
 
I haven't actually tried ironing anything with this iron yet. So I have no idea if it gets hot enough.

 

I can't judge how heavy it is--but it's certainly a lot heavier than many modern irons.
 
Heat And Irons

By the late 1970's or so many things about ironing had changed which were reflected in the irons one purchased.

As steam ironing of man made fibers mostly replaced dry ironing of damp cotton or linen there was a reduced need for very hot irons. What was required was enough power to turn water into steam at all temperatures. Some irons only would produce steam at settings of "wool", 'cotton" or "linen".

Since more and more women and others were working outside the home and or to make the task of ironing less of a drudge irons became lighter. This was also a reflection of modern plastics and other materials replacing metal/chrome and what not that made those heavy irons of the past.

Regarding weight of irons. Proctor appliances back in the 1940's IIRC either did the study themselves or perhaps funded one done elsewhere that disproved a heavy iron was required for good ironing results. All that was required is for the iron to have the proper amount of heat (usually generated at around 1000 -1400 watts), and that would do the work. Also steam in addition to damp ironing or in place of gave better or good as results for most work as dry ironing with a heavy iron.

Women coming out of the "sad iron" era where those items were made of cast iron naturally took some prodding to adapt lighter irons would work as well as heavy ones, but sooner or later everyone was onboard.

Have or had several Proctor, Proctor-Silex, Mary Proctor irons and they all work a treat.

Regarding the soleplate shown above, don't think the pitting and other damage can be "cleaned" off. However flePay is full of NIB Proctor irons from the 1960's through 1980's so if you like....
 
Actually it is very fixable. Give it a going over with fine grade sandpaper, until all the pitting and damage is gone, and then go at it with fine steel wool and a little oil, to remove the tiny swirl marks from the sandpaper, until it is shiny and perfect. It will be just like brand new.
 
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