recomendation for FL that can run 5 days/wk 10hrs/day

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

belinda

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2008
Messages
9
I work in a small animal clinic, we have been through 2 GE top load washers in 4 months, the second lasted 3 weeks. We don't have tons of money to throw around, but do need something reliable. Before these 2 the last washer lasted 5 years. We have to wash at least 5 loads a day, Mon-Fri. We mainly wash towels and our surgery stuff which is lighter wieght fabric than the towels.
Thanks in advance
Belinda
 
If you have 220v power, try eBay or Craigslist for a Miele washing machine. Will last the duration, and you can launder at santising temps of 160F to 190F.

Failing this, also look in the same places for older toploading washng machines, such as those by Maytag, GE, or even Whirlpool. Either will outlast anything made today, even if they are 10 years old already.

You may also wish to look into Speed Queen top loading washing machines. One of the few modern washing machines built to last.

L.
 
If water usage is not an issue, then a plain 1 speed super capacity Whirlpool top load direct drive washer with a dual action agitator is as reliable as you can get for short money. I service a small animal clinic and they do best with Whirlpool/Kenmore direct drive washers. They had a kenmore He3t....lasted about 2 years....cycle took too long with bulky items. Had a Maytag atlantis top loader..tranny went out within 2 years. You can spend alot more, but won't get anything more reliable than direct drive.
 
Which one...

Your washer of choice depends on your needs and time. If you wash 5 loads in a conventional top-loader and it is in use all day long, don't get a front loader. High Efficiency washing machines usually have much longer cycles than conventional top-loading washers. I have a 30-year-old Maytag that can wash a load of laundry in about 30 minutes. My mother has a new GE front loader that will wash the same load in almost 2 hours.

For longest-life, find a used Maytag Dependable Care or even a used Maytag Commercial top loading washer. If in doubt as to whether it is the right kind of Maytag top-loader, tip the washer back and look at the bottom. If you see belts, it's the right one. Also, avoid any Maytag top loader that has a stainless steel wash tub.

Maytag Neptunes have mixed reviews. The Neptune top loaders can be lots of fun, but would likely be too unreliable for your needs. The more-common versions of the Neptune are front-loaders. Some of them have had issues with the control board and wax-motor failing, also the door boot. Before buying a Neptune, find out if these have been replaced. Also, a common problem with used front loaders of any make is bearing failure. If the machine's operators use normal detergent bearing failure is a great risk. To see if there is excessive bearing wear, run the machine on a spin cycle. If you hear a noise like a freight train roaring through the room, the bearings are shot and you should walk away from the deal because having them replaced can be very expensive.

If you get a front loader or a high efficiency top loader, be sure to use only low-sudsing detergent, most of which has an "HE" label. Although Fresh Start is usually fine even without the HE label. If you get a conventional top-loader you can use any detergent you like.

If you want to buy a new washing machine, I would recommend Speed Queen or Whirlpool. Whirlpool makes the same machines under many brand labels, such as: Whirlpool, Sears Kenmore, Roper, Best Buy Inglis, Maytag (the new ones with the center-dials) and Admiral (If I recall correctly). Avoid top-loaders like Frigidaire, low-end GE, Hotpoint, Maytag Legacy Series, Amana, and probably some more. Also, avoid any top-loader with a plastic tub. The guts of Whirlpool conventional top loading washing machines haven't changed much for over 20 years, and they are an excellent balance between cost and value. Get a new one or a used one, it doesn't matter much. Just watch the machine when it starts. If the load of laundry just twists left and right, the washer is overloaded, which results in a decreased lifespan of the washer, and doesn't clean laundry very well. The laundry in a properly loaded conventional top-loading washing machine will come to the top of the water at the outer edge of the tub, move across the tub toward the agitator, and then go down to the bottom.

The most common problem with Whirlpool's conventional top-loading washers is a broken drive coupler. This piece is easy and cheap to replace by yourself. It breaks usually after about 10 years of residential use, but its life can be dramatically shorter if the washer has been habitually overloaded.

I hope this helps,
Dave
 
I say get a lower end Kenmore washer (a top loader made by Whirlpool), maybe at a Sears outlet, and then get their service agreement, which they will push. Be sure to bargain for the service agreement, they should come down on price. For most people, it may not be needed, but in your case, you can have it repaired whenever you need to and not have to pay for the repairs and with your heavy use,you will get your money's worth out of it. As for Neptunes, Volvoguy is mostly right, just don't pay a whole lot for it.
 
Re: I recommend a GE Filter-Flow Washer:

Hi! Belinda, I've seen many past Postings that people have at least 1-GE Filter Flow Washer, because of having Dogs and or Cats. They are the absolute best Washer's for removing the most Hair/Fur and Lint from the Laundry and dispensing it into the "Cake-Pan" type Filter that sits on top of their Activator's. They also through the years have had a couple/few different Size/Capacity Tubs, for people's needs of doing Laundry.

This is my opinion as to what to look into, especially as mentioned for not only great Washing results, but for the best Hair/Fur and even Lint removal, from the Laundry.

Good Luck with your search and findings. "BTW" I do happen to own one of the older Maytag Neptune Front-Load Washers and I've never really had any problems with it. I have had a Retro-Fit Repair/Replacement of the Tub Seal/Boot and the inside of the Door Panel, for adding a Vent to allow the Tub to Air-Out, to prevent Mold/Mildew from forming on the Tub Boot/Seal.

I've also got the matching Gas Dryer and the only thing that I've had done to it, was when it was new it had a rattle noise in it. I had actually the Owner of the local Maytag Dealer come out and he put a Rubber Sleeve Tube on the Spring Hook of the Belt-Tension Pulley Assembly and that got rid of the Rattle. I've also got a crack in the Upper-Right of the inside Door Panel and the Door Seal/Gasket doesn't always stay in place, so I've got to put it's Tab back into the Slot, before closing the Door, especially before starting the Dryer.

Good Luck with your search and findings, Steve
SactoTeddyBear & SactoTeddyRanger...
 
Laundress

Advice is best. Get a 220V Miele. We have to look at this practically, not from the Fl/TL culture wars.
One, a Miele, even an older one, will outlast any new TL in continuous use. They are just plain built for it.
Two, the time element is not that big a deal. If the clinic has five loads worth a day, then obiously they have reserves. A 220V Miele, washing at the same temperature as a TL (and with hot water input) is only going to need 20 minutes or so longer. Time which will be more than made up by the enormously lessened drying time, not to mention the fact that it will get things cleaner at any given temperature (consider the stuff she's cleaning out there, enzymes are the only way to tackle that when you don't have phosphates.)
Three, if time is really a problem, two used Miele will still pay for themselves in energy, water and repair costs. Quickly.

If a TL is the only way to go, then a Dependable Care or older Maytag which has been serviced will do the work. Not much else will. GE Filter-Flo's are wonderful for pet hair, true, but it is not so easy to get one in perfect operating condition now-a-days.

What about Staber? Doesn't Funguy know a lot about them and aren't they built using commerical Whirlpool components? That might be the best solution if 220V isn't available.
 
I've heard mixed reviews on the Staber.

Of course a 220 volt Miele would probably be best, but I'm surprised nobody has recommended the new 110 volt 4 cu ft Miele. It's probably also built to last, and with five loads a day, it might just cut down the number of loads needed to 2 or 3.

Since this is a commercial environment, it may be that no manufacturer will honor the usual warranty, but I'd probably go with a brand new machine over a used one - even a Miele.

I have a Neptune 7500, and it works just fine (after a lot of repairs). I wouldn't recommend this for these folks in a high use commercial application though, especially one that's 8 years old. The tub bearing may be going out, as well as the door locks and water valves. Not to mention the main control board or the motor.

Nothing lasts forever, but even a BOL Frigidaire front loader would probably last much longer than a modern GE toploader. GE toploaders are notoriously unreliable - one look at all the broken down ones on Craigslist is enough evidence of that.
 
OMG Info overload! You guys are great. I will have to print this out and take it to work. The last 2 washers that lasted the total of 4 months were the 500.00 TL residential GE models. Due to the way GE has handeled things with us, my boss does not want to touch another GE wether good or bad.
I have learned alot and will pass all this on.
 
You can get a Frigidaire Affinity with internal water heater at any of the big box stores - Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. These seem to run about $900 or less.

The Miele 4800 or 4740 would run between $1700 and $2000.

Whatever you get, you might see if you can get a commercial warranty - so that if something goes wrong the seller won't deny coverage because it's being used in a business.
 
According To Our Miele Dealer

The 110v washers are NOT recommended for commercial, nor "heavy" use (whatever that means).

Apparently many dry cleaners and laundries use Miele front loaders, especially for silks and handwashables because of those cycles. Some laundries have also been buying the uber sized Samsungs and other large American front loaders because they wished something with more capacity to handle higher through-put, usually having nothing but problems with the machines.

When Miele came out with it's larger sized units it seemed a good option for commercial laundries who could not afford Miele's smallest commercial units (the "little giants"), but Miele has squashed that idea in the bud, and won't even offer a warranty, IIRC for commcercial use, or the warranty for such situations is shorter than residential use.

Personally the newer 110v Miele's leave allot to be desired for commercial use, IMHO. Cycles are pretty much pre-programmed, with limited user adustment. No water heating on "normal" cycle either.

L.
 
Well, I agree inasmuch as from what I've personally seen of the innards, the 220 volt Mieles are built like little tanks. Every steel surface is given a nice coat of glass enamel porcelain. The cast iron weights are given a thick coat of black paint. Everything else is either plastic, glass, rubber, stainless, or galvanized (galvanized being things like the drip tray at the bottom, and some fasteners in not-wet areas). I haven't seen the innards of the 110 volt 48xx series, so I can't say if the same quality is built into them.

Of course it's convenient for a Miele dealer to say "don't use the 110 volt machines in a commercial environment", because they don't sell the 220 volt machines any more anyway. I'm assuming from Laundress' comments that Miele DID offer a commercial warranty on the 220 volt machines, but then I've never seen one in a laundromat, either ;-). I have seen Neptunes in a laundromat - some of them with torn door boots (no big deal in a place that is like one big floor drain).

I would imagine that the Heubsh/Speed Queen front loader would be available with a commercial warranty, so that might be a good option. Some people have them and love them. At least one person here got one and quickly exchanged it for something else. Can't please everyone, especially in a picky crowd!
 
Have always wondered why American laundromats do not bother with internal heating for their washers, and rely on central tanks with (hopefully)recirculating pumps.

Never trust those laundromat washers to give a true hot water wash, which could be easily had with either built in heaters, or steam from a central boiler. Given most all laundromat washers pre-wash in cold water, then merely drain out that water, add "hot" water for the wash, the hot water is going to be probably warm after it mixes with the cold laundry.

As for Miele domestic washing machines in commercial settings, one has a hunch that the older 220v washers could withstand being rode hard and put up wet on a daily basis, where as one is not too sure about the new 110v machines. Could be that the older units gave such great service that service calls in commercial use weren't that much more than units in domestic use, however Miele doesn't want to bother with the 110v machines failing in hard commercial use.
 
Not sure why the 110 volt machines, in an of themselves, should be less reliable than the 220 volt ones. After all, the 220 volt Mieles are essentially 110 volt machines: the electrics and motor all run off 110 volts. The only 220 volt feature on them is the water heater. As it should be!

OTOH, I guess it's like any recipe: when you ramp up the overal volume, things don't necessarily translate in a linear fashion. A smaller washer can be built stronger by virtue of its compact dimensions. As structures get bigger, the rules of physics say that the loads and forces become geometrically if not exponentially much greater. Still, I trust that Miele sorted the 48xx series out well enough that they would at least be more reliable in heavy usage than the average Bauknecht-built or LG-abandoned marketing exercise.

Another area of potential less than 220 volt stellar reliability would be the plastic outer tub of the 110 volt Mieles. As good as Miele claims its glass-reinforced plastic material is, I can't bring myself to accept that these plastic things are better except perhaps for thermal insulation than the stainless outer tubs of the 220's.

In any case, in case you haven't noticed, I'm becoming rather fond of the little tanks called Miele. And I'm starting to notice definite advantages of the 1065 series over even the 1918: infinitely adjustable water temperature; much deeper rinse level (almost to middle of door); 200F top temp. If I'm not mistaken, you can tell the 1065 to wash woolens at 200F and it won't refuse, LOL. That's what we like, total obedience in an automatic washer... ;-)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top