Revisit Maytag A606 Agitator removal

[oldschool]

Well fellas, I've managed to break down my A606 to the point of finding my agitation whoa's. The 4-groove pin that retains the agitation pinion gear broke (only half of it) and got itself wedged between the housing and the intermediate gear. I've been able to find almost all the parts to back me out of the tear down. Shipping errors and out of stock issues has plagued my time line on getting this machine back together.

I have a few of questions remaining.

First, how important is the wicking in the upper housing for the agitator shaft? Mine is completely gone. Any substitutes that can be had locally? I have found it but this $8.00 minimum shipping on a $4.00 part is getting old. I'm sure I'd like to put something in there. I feel that it would store or hold if you will, lubrication for the upper bronze sleeve until the machine came up to speed and the lube would walk up the shaft.

Second, is there any other way to remove the brake assembly housing other than using the housing removal tool. I don't want to spend 50 bucks on a one time use tool. I did find one place that has one for $20.00 however. But still, one time use. I did remove the bottom part of the brake housing using the longer screw method. (I wanted to check the upper bearing of the brake assembly). I'd like to paint the inside of the base pan (rusty) before reassembly. Yea, I could just mask it off but I'd like to be a bit more thorough. I want to get another 20 years out of this machine and from seeing how robust these machines were built, I don't see any reason why that wouldn't be possible.

Third, I can't seem to find the transmission lube (Maytag brand). It's one of the back ordered items. The old lube appeared to be similar if not the same as 90w gear lube. Can I substitute?

I may have some more q's later but for now thanks so much for all the help up to this point.

http://www.automaticwasher.org/TD/THREADS/VINTAGE/2010/26631.htm?25

 

[qsd-dan]

First, how important is the wicking in the upper housing for the agitator shaft?

Not important. Actually, Maytag discontinued use of the wicking in later machines. I guess they realized it did virtually nothing except deteriorate and make a mess. Just clean and liberally oil the bushings as well as the shaft during installation.

Second, is there any other way to remove the brake assembly housing other than using the housing removal tool.

Nope. If you can get a hold of the tool for $20, you are almost guaranteed to get more than that for it on ebay once you're done with it. I personally paid more than that but use the tool monthly, if not more frequently (used it last night). If you remove the brake, replace the damper pads!!!

The old lube appeared to be similar if not the same as 90w gear lube. Can I substitute?

It's actually comparable to straight 50 weight oil. Hold out for the real stuff, if you can. Might as well use it while it's still somewhat available. It won't be around the next time it's needed, that's for sure! Finding non-detergent 50 weight oil is extremely difficult anyway. You'll get at least 30+ years of use on the newer designed Maytag oil that doesn't break down and thicken up like the older formulations.

 

[oldschool]

Hey thanks Dan

You and the others have been a tremendous help. I did manage to remove the brake housing with some gentle help from a brass drift and some rubber gloves to get a good grip. From there I just muscled it off. I will do the pads.

I have a few more parts to locate. If you wouldn't mind could you give me the correct part#'s? Saves a little time with the search. No one has an illustrated diagram breakdown of these machines anymore with related part#'s.

Here's my short list:

NOTE: if any of the lubes or greases can be substituted, by all means let me know. I do have automotive lubricants. Bearing grease, brake grease(hi-temp)and oils. I can get marine grease locally.

1) Splined washer (bronze/brass?) for the drive pinion gear
2) Lug washer for same as above
3) center seal grease
4) trans lube
5) damper pads and lube for pads
6) adhesive for pads (is it contact cement?)
7) lube for brake assembly? pad area?
8) grease for splines into brake assembly

Thanks in advance

 

[combo52]

MAYTAG LUBRICANTS

The brake assembly is easily removed with out a special wrench I removed them for years tapping on one of the screws that hold it together. When I finely got hold of the special brake tool it was harder to use than my old way I threw the tool in the metal recycling pile. 90w gear oil is fine in the transmission like wise for other lubricants use your good judgment if you are used to working on cars you have everything you need. As Dan said the oil MT used in thier gear box was junk it looked & smelled like something from a sewage plant and I don't think I would trust WP to pick a better lube for a machine they had no experience with. There is nothing critical about a washing machines lubrication compared to a car.

 

[qsd-dan]

1) Splined washer (bronze/brass?) for the drive pinion gear

211483

2) Lug washer for same as above

211484

3) center seal grease

Just use a good quality grease.

4) trans lube

Recently was Y056080 > Now 6-0560800 (Whirlpool part #)

5) damper pads and lube for pads

Damper pad kit includes the lube (polylube). 203956

6) adhesive for pads (is it contact cement?)

Y055980

8) grease for splines into brake assembly

Any decent quality grease.

7)lube for brake assembly? pad area?

Do you mean the brake package internally? The brake package uses transmission oil. Just spill a teaspoon of trans fluid into the brake package before you dump it into the transmission. The damper pads are lubed with poly lube. It comes with the kit as stated above.

I recommend using partstore.com if you're using an internet based store. They seem to have the most parts in stock and are quick about the entire process from start to finish.

 

[qsd-dan]

90w gear oil is fine in the transmission like wise for other lubricants use your good judgment if you are used to working on cars you have everything you need.

Personally, I wouldn't use 90w unless you live in the tropics. Even with new Maytag oil, if the surrounding temps get below 40F, the trans will struggle a little until the oil warms up and thins out. I couldn't imagine trying to get the machine to agitate with 90w oil on a day below 50F. You'd probably end up stripping the fiber pinion gear.

 

[dnastrau]

Maytag transmission lube in stock

These folks say they have it in stock...

http://www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-056080-%3d%3d&txt=1

 

[combo52]

MT TRANSMISSION OIL

90 Weight oil is correct for non orbital transmissions according to my Repair Master book. The old brown stuff that MT used was even called grease it was around 120 weight. MTs need a very heavy oil to keep gear noise down due straight cut pinion and other gears. I really dough the mechanical sense of any one that would suggest 90 weight could cause gears to strip, even if the gear case was frozen solid no gears would strip it just wouldn't turn.

 

[qsd-dan]

90 Weight oil is correct for non orbital transmissions according to my Repair Master book.

The helicals and orbitals always shared the same exact oil. Why would there be a difference? Did Maytag lower the weight of the oil with the introduction of the oribital trans? I know Maytag eventually changed the wringers over from some really thick oil to the same 05080 as the helical/orbital trannys.

I really doubt the mechanical sense of any one that would suggest 90 weight could cause gears to strip, even if the gear case was frozen solid no gears would strip it just wouldn't turn.

From my understanding, the fiber pinion sacrificed itself to save the metal gears in case the trans locked up. That's why most of the older transmissions that don't agitate usually have a sheared fiber pinion gear. I could be wrong though.....

 

[goatfarmer]

Personally, I've never been able to remove the Maytag brake package without the wrench. Tapping on the bolts? If it works, great!

 

[qsd-dan]

Tapping on the bolts? If it works, great!

That may work for taking it off, but I wouldn't trust that technique putting it back on. The newer style brake packages don't have those bolts as the brake packages are sealed. I think they started doing that around the late 80's.