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103C

HI from the cold of London, is 103 hot enough for a good shower, and hygienic hand washing when cooking cleaning ect., I think we blend a mix of hot/cold due to the fact that in most homes the hot water storage tank is a lot smaller . Its so could here at I shivering thinking about a shower at 103c is that the temp in the tank or at the tap, if its the tank temp. then at a shower its going to be around 98F that's almost Freezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzing Is the cost of power even higher in the US than it is here.
 
103ºC is BOILING. 103ºF is just warmer than your body temperature. Lukewarm - warm feeling.

That former temperature sanitises and burns everything that touches it (everything living). The latter, is the PERFECT condition for bacterial growth. It is NOT THE RECOMMENDED temperature one would use for sanitising, unless you are using some form of sanitiser, like Alcohol or some other substance (in those cases, follow the manufacturers directions).

103ºF is probably too cold for most people in the shower, but that depends on your preferance. If you live in a hot place, then maybe it is perfect. Since you are from England, then I would probably assume you like a nice, HOT shower in the morning/evening, to help freshen you up (although cold showers tend to shock you into that too!)
 
White Vinegar.

In the instructions for my Miele 646 SC it states that you can use distilled vinegar if you run out of rinse aid. I have never yet needed to use any, but it is always there as an option. As far as dosing, I just follow the instructions given and seem to get consistantly good results. I am currently trialling Fairy dishwasher pouches. So far so good.
 
I'd never set my water heater below 140F just for the sole reason of preventing legionalla bacteria from growing.

 


Q. What water conditions are best for growth of legionalla?

A. Warm, stagnant water provides ideal conditions for growth. At temperatures between 20°C-50°C (68°-122°F) the organism can multiply. Temperatures of 32°C-40°C (90°-105°F) are ideal for growth. Rust (iron), scale, and the presence of other microorganisms can also promote the growth of LDB.


Q. Can Legionnaires' disease be prevented?

A. Yes. Avoiding water conditions that allow the organism to grow to high levels is the best means of prevention. Specific preventive steps include:

Regularly maintain and clean cooling towers and evaporative condensers to prevent growth of LDB. This should include twice-yearly cleaning and periodic use of chlorine or other effective biocide.

Maintain domestic water heaters at 60°C (140°F). The temperature of the water should be at least 50°C (122°F) or higher at the faucet.

Avoid conditions that allow water to stagnate. Large water-storage tanks exposed to sunlight can produce warm conditions favorable to high levels of LDB. Frequent flushing of unused water lines will help alleviate stagnation.
 
 
My water heater has no storage tank.  The heating chamber is fully flushed each time water is run.  I occasionally raise the temperature temporarily for selected tasks.

The display can show:  set temp, input temp, output temp, heating chamber #1 temp, heating chamber #2 temp, flow rate, output percentage of full capacity.

dadoes++12-17-2012-07-55-57.jpg
 
Water Heater

HI DadoES

looks like an interesting water system you have would love to know more it looks like its electric how many whats does it pull? whats the flow rate like at high temp? I see how you can take more of a risk with this type of system but 103f still sound very cool
 
Off-Topic -- water heating

 
Electric, yes.  It's a large-capacity, whole-house unit with four 7,200 watt elements, potential total 28,800 watts, which is 120a at 240v.  However, the unit moderates its power consumption based on the load ... input temp, output set point, and flow rate.  It doesn't reduce the flow rate if it can't reach the setpoint, the output just won't get to full temp.

Running my kitchen faucet at maximum:
Input approx 67°F
Setpoint 103°F
Flow rate 1.2 gpm (low-flow aerator)
Output between 22% and 24% of full capacity

Setpoint 140°F (maximum)
Output between 55% and 61% (a few spikes to 67%) of capacity, with repeated drops to between 29% and 31%.

Scalding injury would result from showering in 140°F water, so what would be the point of setting it to 140°F?  103°F is perfect for me.  My dishwasher has internal heating so no need to raise it for that.  Washing clothes is the only time I raise it according to what I want for the load, or on rare occasions for a whirlpool-tub soak.  The unit produces heated water continuously, never runs out, so there's no need to run the temp higher for "reserve capacity."
 
28000 watts

I'm not sure the old cabling in my street is up-to delivering 28000 watts, we have gas water heaters 's here that work in the same way but I have had very mixed reports from people how have them. cheap to run but a very limited flow rate in winter for a shower + you can only use 1 hot tap at a time this would be a problem in our house in the mornings
 
 
My house has 200 amp service.

As explained above, the unit does not always run at 100% power.  24% is 6,912 watts.  61% for the 140°F example above is 17,586 watts ... a very large draw by any measure but still not maximum for the unit.  I've seen it low as 8% to 15%.

Regards to restriction against using more than one hot water tap at a time ... that's largely a fallacy. I've had guests running showers simultaneously with no issue.  The unit can't selectively activate or deactivate water taps.  Any hot water tap that's turned on will of course have water flowing out of it, at whatever flow-rate the aggregate household plumbing supports for multiple taps open, heated to the setpoint within the unit's ability to maximum capacity.  It's not necessary to run every heated-water task at full-flow rate the faucet can provide.  When I've checked out of curiosity, I find that I run my shower at average 1.2 to 1.5 GPM, there's plenty capacity to handle that even at an input temp below 40°F.
 
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