Roper washer problem

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Spinning DD washers

Hi Mark K, your experiences with DD washers that leak water while spinning and draining at the same, I have NEVER seen. WP has built over 100 million DD washers to date, and if all a customer had to do was lift the lid at the start of drain which immediately throws the washer into spin, caused the washer to leak a gallon or any amount of water on the floor I think we would have all heard about this problem. This is ignoring the fact that there are about 25 million DD washers working now that DO NOT  do the neutral drain any longer and are not leaking.

 

As far as weather to replace the clutch and drive cupping while doing other major repairs, I do these on a case by case basis. If the clutch is slightly worn I generally do not replace it. If the washer does not have the new style metal reinforced drive cupping I would almost always replace it.
 
Maybe this only happens on high speed with a truly FULL tub of water but I have personally witnessed the water running out of the machine and after i changed out the ND pak the problem disappeared. Maybe this was a problem unique to the the WP branded commercial machine that I was the custodian of over the last 8 years. Maybe the tub cover on this particular machine wasn't sealing properly. I suppose there could be any number of reasons for the leaking water but I can say that I NEVER leaked when the ND was working properly unless you opened the lid at the beginning of a spin cycle.

Happy Mardi Gras!
 
Spinning DD washers

Hi Mark K, your experiences with DD washers that leak water while spinning and draining at the same, I have NEVER seen. WP has built over 100 million DD washers to date, and if all a customer had to do was lift the lid at the start of drain which immediately throws the washer into spin, caused the washer to leak a gallon or any amount of water on the floor I think we would have all heard about this problem.

 

As far as weather to replace the clutch and drive cupping while doing other major repairs, I do these on a case by case basis. If the clutch is slightly worn I generally do not replace it. If the washer does not have the new style metal reinforced drive cupping I would almost always replace it.
 
DD's

I forgot to place the foam seal back in the tub after cleaning and managed to get some water spill, but never aside from that.

 

Norgechef, if there is a local repair or parts supplier, I bought a good used one for about $60, and usually these places have them by the dozen. They even threw in one with a 6-pad clutch for little to nothing, I don't think they generally come with the clutch (easy to swap though). I can see where it may sound daunting, but these machines are so simple to work on, even with a minimal understanding of mechanics you should be good. You don't even have to remove the tub to get it out. Someone here can help you, but I'd say $75-$100 and you'll have another machine ready to go.

 

Also as mentioned, you could continue using until it won't spin anymore. I've run into issues where the neutral get stuck and the machine has to be stopped/started several times for the cam to drop.

 

-Tim
 
I agree with John. I have NEVER seen a DD washer that leaked while spin-draining a full tub o' water. We sell a lot of these washers used and it just doesn't happen. When we get these washers ready for sale, we will fill the tub w/ h2o and cleaner. We let them soak an hour or so & then drain them before removing the inner basket to scrub away all the gak. A lot of times we will happen to advance the timer into spin and do a spin drain. The water stays in the tub and not on the floor. Now, we've oversuds these things while cleaning them and that'll get water on the floor.
 
All I can say is that my Whirpool did leak when it was full of water and clothes and then went immediately into spin. The water was on the floor running to the drain every damned time. It wasn't a lot, probably only a few quarts. I saw it with my own eyes and the paint on the concrete is damaged in a way that shows the route it took to the drain time and time again.

I will concede that it's possible that this particular machine had a bad upper tub gasket or that plastic top of the tub was not seated properly on the tub itself (or maybe even had a crack that I didn't notice) in such a way that allowed it to leak when it would spin with a full tub. Taking the top of the cabinet off of a DD machine alone is such a damned effort that it was easier to rebuild the transmission. I never went through the effort to see if the basket cover wasn't seated properly.
 
Leaking DD washers

Mark I am not doubting you for one minute that you had a WP DD washer that leaked when it did not neutral drain. But as we all should consider that one experience is not statistically accurate and there was something else wrong with the washer you were using. WP would never let a machine out of the factory if it would leak if you lifted the lid and closed it again.

 

When I remove a transmission from a DD washer I always remove the cabinet and top assembly first, yes it can be done without doing so but it is much harder not to have complete access. Not removing the cabinet and top first would be like doing open heart surgery on someone while they are still wearing a suit LOL.
 
Estate/Whirlpool washer

I saw one today at a local futureshop and i thought about getting until i lifted the lid and it has that new low water usage thing on the rinse, how do you tweak with the watet level switch? and could i brake it in the process?
 
To Norgechef

Well, here's one other thing you should think about before you consider buying an Estate machine and then tampering with it.

If something breaks on the machine as a result of trying to modify it, the warranty on the machine would become invalid and you would be on your own. Especially if they can prove that you did it and you can't reverse the modifications.

I have no idea if the pressure switches on those machines are sealed or adjustable units. If they are adjustable, great. If not, you are pretty much hooped. I don't know for sure and I'm not spending $400 to find out. :) Replacing a sealed pressure switch with an adjustable one may not even be feasible for all I know.

If you want to buy a machine which will wash your clothing effectively without having to tamper with it to get it to do what you need it to do properly, then you should consider buying something else. I've already made my suggestion above.

(We already know how to modify the pressure switches on both FL and TL Speed Queen / Huebsch machines, they're very straight forward and easy to do.)

I think modifying an Estate/Roper machine would be a great project for the more experienced people on this forum who want a machine they can play with and learn on, as I would love to see a pictorial how to.

Besides, didn't you say that you were going to try and fix your existing machine?
 
@qualin

she says this roper machine she has now doesnt always fill to the top row of holes so when shes washing a heavy load she holds the water selector in between small and large and it will fill higher.....and yes i may just fix this one she has now because im reading the reviews and 2 people said the Estate machines started leaking after one year of buying them.......what would that be?
 
ok im positive im getting it fixed now but.....

When i go to remove the softener dispenser off the agitator its stuck on and wont budge, underneath the dispenser it feels welded on or something......please help
 
Softener Dispenser

Well there are two types.

If you have the Whirlpool type agitator, you can pry it off with a screwdriver, you should see a small notch below it.

If you have the Kenmore type agitator, there is a blue lock ring you simply need to pull up and it should come off.
 
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