norgechef
Well-known member
Whats so good about speed queen/heubch machines?
Why does everyone say those are so great?
Why does everyone say those are so great?
Roper washer problem
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macboy91si
Well-known member
SQ
They are REAL commercial machines (like you would find at a coin laundry) in a home package. High quality materials, stainless tub and absolute rugged build. These machines are design to be abused day in and out with minimal repairs and when repairs are needed many common parts are easily accessible from the front.
For the enthusiast, the SQ name carries a long history of neat machines and the famous long, slow stroke action similar to the 50's through 80's Maytags as well as others.
I think the big thing is quality for most, they are very solid machines.
-Tim
They are REAL commercial machines (like you would find at a coin laundry) in a home package. High quality materials, stainless tub and absolute rugged build. These machines are design to be abused day in and out with minimal repairs and when repairs are needed many common parts are easily accessible from the front.
For the enthusiast, the SQ name carries a long history of neat machines and the famous long, slow stroke action similar to the 50's through 80's Maytags as well as others.
I think the big thing is quality for most, they are very solid machines.
-Tim
DirectDriveDave
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2011
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- 456
Speed Queens are built in the US and have an excellent reputation of being reliable/very long-lasting.
I have no knowledge on Huebsch.
I have no knowledge on Huebsch.
macboy91si
Well-known member
Heubsch
Heubsch is the commercial arm of SQ. Also in Canada most SQ models are sold under this name. It's the same machine. Also SQ machines are sold under the UniMac name as well. All are Alliance Laundry products.
-Tim
Heubsch is the commercial arm of SQ. Also in Canada most SQ models are sold under this name. It's the same machine. Also SQ machines are sold under the UniMac name as well. All are Alliance Laundry products.
-Tim
Huebsch
I had no idea that Speed Queen made a specific Canadian brand. From the website that qualin posted, it exactly the same setup as the American Speed Queen site and the machine consoles and features are also exactly the same, only the name is changed. Learn something new everyday.
I had no idea that Speed Queen made a specific Canadian brand. From the website that qualin posted, it exactly the same setup as the American Speed Queen site and the machine consoles and features are also exactly the same, only the name is changed. Learn something new everyday.
norgechef
Well-known member
How much do Huebsch/Speed queen washers cost?
Im quite interested in getting one now......i know commercial machines cost thousands of dollars so how much would one of these cost?
Im quite interested in getting one now......i know commercial machines cost thousands of dollars so how much would one of these cost?
John, in the experiences I have had with a 2003 Whirlpool branded DD machine and later a 10 year old Roper Branded DD machine, when the neutral drain fails and it goes directly into spin with a full tub of water it actually throws some water up and over the sides of the tub. It's not a lot of water, maybe a gallon or so. It is however enough to be a problem unless the machine is either in a basement on a non-carpeted floor or actually sitting in one of those washing machine "catch" basins that I have seen in some new construction.
Both of these machines were being used for "commercial" type purposes and always washing large loads of towels and overalls so the water level was almost always set at the highest level.
Do some of the tub designs on these DD machines prevent water from being thrown out of the tub at the beginning of the spin?
In terms of the clutch, I have never seen a clutch go bad because of a failed neutral drain mechanism. That said, I would never pull a DD transmission off of a machine to replace the Neutral Drain Pak without replacing the clutch band and spring as well as the Direct-Drive Coupler. In my observations, by the time the Neutral Drain fails, the plastic on the clutch band is usually pretty worn as well. And, while you're that far, it seems silly not to spend the extra $20 to replace the drive coupler, especially if you know that it is original.
Has that been your experience in the field?
Both of these machines were being used for "commercial" type purposes and always washing large loads of towels and overalls so the water level was almost always set at the highest level.
Do some of the tub designs on these DD machines prevent water from being thrown out of the tub at the beginning of the spin?
In terms of the clutch, I have never seen a clutch go bad because of a failed neutral drain mechanism. That said, I would never pull a DD transmission off of a machine to replace the Neutral Drain Pak without replacing the clutch band and spring as well as the Direct-Drive Coupler. In my observations, by the time the Neutral Drain fails, the plastic on the clutch band is usually pretty worn as well. And, while you're that far, it seems silly not to spend the extra $20 to replace the drive coupler, especially if you know that it is original.
Has that been your experience in the field?
To Norgechef
Huebsch sells a variety of machines for the home, depending on your price level.
Now, I bought their front loading machine, which is the Huebsch ZFN50R. That has rear controls, which is slightly cheaper than the front control model. That machine set me back $1900. The Top of the line Rear Control gas Dryer, the ZDG4BR, set me back about $850.
Don't let those prices scare you, their front loader is considered to be their "Top of the line", next models down are top loaders.
Their top of the line top loader is about half the price of the front loader. I believe that their bottom of the line top loader is about $300 cheaper than that.
So, BOL Top loader is about $600, TOL Top loader is about $900.
Again, don't let those prices scare you. Here's what you get:
- Metal outer tub. Most other washers on the market have a plastic outer tub. My GE Top loader has a plastic outer tub. This makes all the difference when it comes to retaining odors and gunk.
- All metal transmission. My GE has plastic gears in the transmission, but a Huebsch has all-metal gears, which leads to better longevity.
- Electromechanical controls make the machine immune to power surges, dirty power and other things which would fry a computer controlled washing machine.
- The legendary 120 degree agitator sweep, the most of any transmission-based washing machine sold today. My GE has a 30 degree agitator sweep.
- Stainless Steel Tub, getting to be pretty much the norm in modern machines now. No porcelain to chip or to catch on clothing.
- The longest warranty in the business. 3 years parts and labor, 5 years parts. Other manufacturers only offer a 1 year warranty.
- The cabinet is triple coated and is warrantied against rust.
- American made, so parts are plentiful and easy to obtain. The factory is in Ripon, WI which about a 24 hour drive away from St. George, NB. (About 2000 km away.)
Huebsch sells a variety of machines for the home, depending on your price level.
Now, I bought their front loading machine, which is the Huebsch ZFN50R. That has rear controls, which is slightly cheaper than the front control model. That machine set me back $1900. The Top of the line Rear Control gas Dryer, the ZDG4BR, set me back about $850.
Don't let those prices scare you, their front loader is considered to be their "Top of the line", next models down are top loaders.
Their top of the line top loader is about half the price of the front loader. I believe that their bottom of the line top loader is about $300 cheaper than that.
So, BOL Top loader is about $600, TOL Top loader is about $900.
Again, don't let those prices scare you. Here's what you get:
- Metal outer tub. Most other washers on the market have a plastic outer tub. My GE Top loader has a plastic outer tub. This makes all the difference when it comes to retaining odors and gunk.
- All metal transmission. My GE has plastic gears in the transmission, but a Huebsch has all-metal gears, which leads to better longevity.
- Electromechanical controls make the machine immune to power surges, dirty power and other things which would fry a computer controlled washing machine.
- The legendary 120 degree agitator sweep, the most of any transmission-based washing machine sold today. My GE has a 30 degree agitator sweep.
- Stainless Steel Tub, getting to be pretty much the norm in modern machines now. No porcelain to chip or to catch on clothing.
- The longest warranty in the business. 3 years parts and labor, 5 years parts. Other manufacturers only offer a 1 year warranty.
- The cabinet is triple coated and is warrantied against rust.
- American made, so parts are plentiful and easy to obtain. The factory is in Ripon, WI which about a 24 hour drive away from St. George, NB. (About 2000 km away.)
Ropers and GE's
I think the biggest thing when it comes to the debate against Roper machines is that ideally, the customer shouldn't have to tweak anything on the machine to get it to do its job properly.
Right from the factory, Roper machines have a low water level wash and a very low water level rinse. This can be defeated, but IMO, it shouldn't have to. For that very reason, voting with your wallet is the best defense against this, instead of buying the machines and then posting a "HowTo" thread on how to get them working right.
I have to admit that I really haven't been too impressed with the quality of GE machines in the last few years. I have a 2004 vintage set of GE machines and they've been fairly decent for the most part.. but ever since GE introduced the Hydrowave high voltage DC direct drive system, they've been fraught with issues. Watching their "Infusor" based machines make me nearly sick from all of the rubbing action.
However, this is all IMHO.
I think the biggest thing when it comes to the debate against Roper machines is that ideally, the customer shouldn't have to tweak anything on the machine to get it to do its job properly.
Right from the factory, Roper machines have a low water level wash and a very low water level rinse. This can be defeated, but IMO, it shouldn't have to. For that very reason, voting with your wallet is the best defense against this, instead of buying the machines and then posting a "HowTo" thread on how to get them working right.
I have to admit that I really haven't been too impressed with the quality of GE machines in the last few years. I have a 2004 vintage set of GE machines and they've been fairly decent for the most part.. but ever since GE introduced the Hydrowave high voltage DC direct drive system, they've been fraught with issues. Watching their "Infusor" based machines make me nearly sick from all of the rubbing action.
However, this is all IMHO.
norgechef
Well-known member
Im not going to get the Roper fixed
Im pretty sure i will just get a Hotpoint/Ge machine because i live a few hours away from the nearest Huesbch dealer, not sure yet.....
Im pretty sure i will just get a Hotpoint/Ge machine because i live a few hours away from the nearest Huesbch dealer, not sure yet.....
norgechef
Well-known member
On second thought....
Im going 2 fix it...........can somebody give me the link 2 a site where i can find these parts cheap: Clutch, transmission/gearbox and motor coupler, since its so old im gonna replace the coupler 2.....
Im going 2 fix it...........can somebody give me the link 2 a site where i can find these parts cheap: Clutch, transmission/gearbox and motor coupler, since its so old im gonna replace the coupler 2.....
DirectDriveDave
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2011
- Messages
- 456
Possible sites
To my knowledge, these sites seem to have a good reputation
www.repairclinic.com (i'm most familiar with this one)
www.aplliancepartspros.com
What's also nice about repair clinic is that they give you very good videos on youtube to show you how to replace the necessary parts.
To my knowledge, these sites seem to have a good reputation
www.repairclinic.com (i'm most familiar with this one)
www.aplliancepartspros.com
What's also nice about repair clinic is that they give you very good videos on youtube to show you how to replace the necessary parts.
Spinning DD washers
Hi Mark K, your experiences with DD washers that leak water while spinning and draining at the same, I have NEVER seen. WP has built over 100 million DD washers to date, and if all a customer had to do was lift the lid at the start of drain which immediately throws the washer into spin, caused the washer to leak a gallon or any amount of water on the floor I think we would have all heard about this problem. This is ignoring the fact that there are about 25 million DD washers working now that DO NOT do the neutral drain any longer and are not leaking.
As far as weather to replace the clutch and drive cupping while doing other major repairs, I do these on a case by case basis. If the clutch is slightly worn I generally do not replace it. If the washer does not have the new style metal reinforced drive cupping I would almost always replace it.
Hi Mark K, your experiences with DD washers that leak water while spinning and draining at the same, I have NEVER seen. WP has built over 100 million DD washers to date, and if all a customer had to do was lift the lid at the start of drain which immediately throws the washer into spin, caused the washer to leak a gallon or any amount of water on the floor I think we would have all heard about this problem. This is ignoring the fact that there are about 25 million DD washers working now that DO NOT do the neutral drain any longer and are not leaking.
As far as weather to replace the clutch and drive cupping while doing other major repairs, I do these on a case by case basis. If the clutch is slightly worn I generally do not replace it. If the washer does not have the new style metal reinforced drive cupping I would almost always replace it.
Maybe this only happens on high speed with a truly FULL tub of water but I have personally witnessed the water running out of the machine and after i changed out the ND pak the problem disappeared. Maybe this was a problem unique to the the WP branded commercial machine that I was the custodian of over the last 8 years. Maybe the tub cover on this particular machine wasn't sealing properly. I suppose there could be any number of reasons for the leaking water but I can say that I NEVER leaked when the ND was working properly unless you opened the lid at the beginning of a spin cycle.
Happy Mardi Gras!
Happy Mardi Gras!
Spinning DD washers
Hi Mark K, your experiences with DD washers that leak water while spinning and draining at the same, I have NEVER seen. WP has built over 100 million DD washers to date, and if all a customer had to do was lift the lid at the start of drain which immediately throws the washer into spin, caused the washer to leak a gallon or any amount of water on the floor I think we would have all heard about this problem.
As far as weather to replace the clutch and drive cupping while doing other major repairs, I do these on a case by case basis. If the clutch is slightly worn I generally do not replace it. If the washer does not have the new style metal reinforced drive cupping I would almost always replace it.
Hi Mark K, your experiences with DD washers that leak water while spinning and draining at the same, I have NEVER seen. WP has built over 100 million DD washers to date, and if all a customer had to do was lift the lid at the start of drain which immediately throws the washer into spin, caused the washer to leak a gallon or any amount of water on the floor I think we would have all heard about this problem.
As far as weather to replace the clutch and drive cupping while doing other major repairs, I do these on a case by case basis. If the clutch is slightly worn I generally do not replace it. If the washer does not have the new style metal reinforced drive cupping I would almost always replace it.
supersurgilator
Well-known member
I second that, and what about all of the early DD models that do a spin drain, we have one. It has never ever leaked any water on the floor.
macboy91si
Well-known member
DD's
I forgot to place the foam seal back in the tub after cleaning and managed to get some water spill, but never aside from that.
Norgechef, if there is a local repair or parts supplier, I bought a good used one for about $60, and usually these places have them by the dozen. They even threw in one with a 6-pad clutch for little to nothing, I don't think they generally come with the clutch (easy to swap though). I can see where it may sound daunting, but these machines are so simple to work on, even with a minimal understanding of mechanics you should be good. You don't even have to remove the tub to get it out. Someone here can help you, but I'd say $75-$100 and you'll have another machine ready to go.
Also as mentioned, you could continue using until it won't spin anymore. I've run into issues where the neutral get stuck and the machine has to be stopped/started several times for the cam to drop.
-Tim
I forgot to place the foam seal back in the tub after cleaning and managed to get some water spill, but never aside from that.
Norgechef, if there is a local repair or parts supplier, I bought a good used one for about $60, and usually these places have them by the dozen. They even threw in one with a 6-pad clutch for little to nothing, I don't think they generally come with the clutch (easy to swap though). I can see where it may sound daunting, but these machines are so simple to work on, even with a minimal understanding of mechanics you should be good. You don't even have to remove the tub to get it out. Someone here can help you, but I'd say $75-$100 and you'll have another machine ready to go.
Also as mentioned, you could continue using until it won't spin anymore. I've run into issues where the neutral get stuck and the machine has to be stopped/started several times for the cam to drop.
-Tim
runematic
Well-known member
I agree with John. I have NEVER seen a DD washer that leaked while spin-draining a full tub o' water. We sell a lot of these washers used and it just doesn't happen. When we get these washers ready for sale, we will fill the tub w/ h2o and cleaner. We let them soak an hour or so & then drain them before removing the inner basket to scrub away all the gak. A lot of times we will happen to advance the timer into spin and do a spin drain. The water stays in the tub and not on the floor. Now, we've oversuds these things while cleaning them and that'll get water on the floor.
All I can say is that my Whirpool did leak when it was full of water and clothes and then went immediately into spin. The water was on the floor running to the drain every damned time. It wasn't a lot, probably only a few quarts. I saw it with my own eyes and the paint on the concrete is damaged in a way that shows the route it took to the drain time and time again.
I will concede that it's possible that this particular machine had a bad upper tub gasket or that plastic top of the tub was not seated properly on the tub itself (or maybe even had a crack that I didn't notice) in such a way that allowed it to leak when it would spin with a full tub. Taking the top of the cabinet off of a DD machine alone is such a damned effort that it was easier to rebuild the transmission. I never went through the effort to see if the basket cover wasn't seated properly.
I will concede that it's possible that this particular machine had a bad upper tub gasket or that plastic top of the tub was not seated properly on the tub itself (or maybe even had a crack that I didn't notice) in such a way that allowed it to leak when it would spin with a full tub. Taking the top of the cabinet off of a DD machine alone is such a damned effort that it was easier to rebuild the transmission. I never went through the effort to see if the basket cover wasn't seated properly.
Leaking DD washers
Mark I am not doubting you for one minute that you had a WP DD washer that leaked when it did not neutral drain. But as we all should consider that one experience is not statistically accurate and there was something else wrong with the washer you were using. WP would never let a machine out of the factory if it would leak if you lifted the lid and closed it again.
When I remove a transmission from a DD washer I always remove the cabinet and top assembly first, yes it can be done without doing so but it is much harder not to have complete access. Not removing the cabinet and top first would be like doing open heart surgery on someone while they are still wearing a suit LOL.
Mark I am not doubting you for one minute that you had a WP DD washer that leaked when it did not neutral drain. But as we all should consider that one experience is not statistically accurate and there was something else wrong with the washer you were using. WP would never let a machine out of the factory if it would leak if you lifted the lid and closed it again.
When I remove a transmission from a DD washer I always remove the cabinet and top assembly first, yes it can be done without doing so but it is much harder not to have complete access. Not removing the cabinet and top first would be like doing open heart surgery on someone while they are still wearing a suit LOL.
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