rusty sewing machine, need advice!

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vacuumfreeeke

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Jan 22, 2007
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Hey guys... my boyfriend's grandmother just died and boy did she have a treasure trove of old stuff in that house. The most interesting thing I think you guys would like is a Universal iron with cloth cord... looks brand new! Also has a few old cameras, one with the pull out accordion style lens! Lots of old unique kitchen stuff too... I need to take pictures and post them... but the thing that was the most interesting to me was her treadle sewing machine. I'd like to get it working and restore it, but it's so rusty I don't know if that's even possible or where to begin. The tension dial, presser foot and lever, and hand wheel are all covered in rust. Do any of you have a good way to get rid of rust without damaging the metal underneath? I'd appreciate any feedback!

Vacuumfreeeke++1-7-2010-12-29-48.jpg
 
My mother "fixed" my rusty can-opener with olive oil. [SHUT-UP!]

Perhaps there is a proper type of "oil " to use with this.

BTW I have a similar foot-treadle machine from my grandmother, only the cabinet is closed.
 
Those machines were built to last forever -

and, given what they cost, they should.
As long as you don't upset the timing, it should be possible to restore it to perfect condition.
Singer carries many parts which will still fit, by the by.

Generally speaking, you should start with olive oil and WD-40, which is a solvent and not a lubricant.

Working with baking soda and a fine toothbrush, most of the rust will rub away.
Don't be to anal about rust on parts where it doesn't matter.
Very important are all the parts which rub together. With a good coat of acid free light oil, they should clean themselves fairly quickly. Just keep adding oil until the rust is gone.

Under no circumstances should you risk gasoline or stronger solvents as the decals might be lost.

Great machines, by the by - I'd love to see some more pictures.
 
Sewing machine oil.

It cleans, it lubricates, it does it all.
I'll refer this post to my roommate who restores sewing machines once he gets home from work.

The attached link is for a vintage sewing machine board he likes. Start reading and my roommate should be home sometime around or after 7:00 EST.

Good luck,
Dave

 
Treadle machine

My mom inherited a 1911 Minnesota (marketed by Montgomery Ward) Model A machine from my grandmother, of which it belonged to her mother.

My mom has never been a 'sewing' type and she just used it for furniture. It sat in a damp storage unit for about 3 years until we moved.

I never thought about it until I bought a Singer 66 electric machine that I loved to sew on. I decided I wanted to check out the Minnesota. It was rusty but mostly dirty. It has the original manual and accessories with it. It's the 'shuttle-style' bobbin. And as long as the race (the curved piece that the shuttle runs along) and the shuttle is in good shape, the rest is just a matter of oiling. I used some multi-purpose cleaner and cleaned it up. Then I used sewing machine oil to oil all of it's moving parts, including the treadle. After oiling she ran smooth. The original treadle belt was deteriorated so I bought a new one (you can get it on Ebay). I replaced the needle, and threaded up the bobbin and took it for a test drive. The treadle action takes a bit of getting used to, but it worked!!! I even stitched a shirt on it.

I think that you will have that Singer up and running in no time. I would get a manual for it so you know the important oiling points.

You can see surface rust on the Minnesota, primarily on the tension knob, bobbin threader, and stitch length adjuster. I've got the bobbin cover off so you can see the shuttle inside.

~Tim

BugsyJones++1-7-2010-15-54-13.jpg
 
I have a very similar machine which belonged to my beloved Gramma. Sewing machine oil will serve you well, and belts are still to be had; I replaced mine none too long ago. Sewing/vacuum centers often stock them.
 
LOTS of sewing machine oil and time!!Make sure shuttle parts and bobbin parts don't have "snag" points on them-snags can be filed off with a very fine file-or better yet a Dremel tool.The Dremel tool polish wheels can remove rust if used VERY carefully.Also check for any needle marks on the needle or throat plate.File those off too.I have helpted at sewing machine man out here-its kinda interesting-timing in sewing machine can be affected thru age-as parts loosen with time and vibration-or TOO helpful owners that take the machine apart for the technician to work on!!!Timing will definitly be messed up.So as the sewing tech says-do not take the machine apart!The sewing place out my way has the leather belts.These were also used on some older 35MM film projectors-usually on the film takeup reel.Simplex,Holmes comes to mind.Not just sewing machines.
 
#0000 and #000 steel wool will safely remove the rust haze from all of the chrome and stainless and polished metal parts. Use WD-40 as a cutting oil, along with the steel wool, for the tough spots. Both also do an excellent job cleaning glass and porcelain enamel.

For the painted body, try Meguiar's #6 cleaner wax, and initially stay off the gold painted decorations until you are sure that they won't be polished off easily. Follow up with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze, and then seal up with with #26 liquid wax or their Gold Classe liquid wax.

For the rusted/stuck mechanical compenents, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster are your new best friends. You can make an excellent home brew penetrant using 50/50 Acetone and ATF(automatic transmission fluid). Let the penetrant of your choice soak in for a while and then start rocking the working compenents gently back and forth to see if they'll move. Keep rocking them until they are starting to free up, adding penetrant as you go.

Once you get it freed up, TriFlow is an excellent lubricant and you can eventually follow that up with a synthetic sewing machine oil.

I went through this process with my '59 Pfaff 360, and a couple of other 260, 360 and 362 Pfaff's that I brought back to life and I've had good results.
 

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