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If I select steam on our Samsung front loader, it only begins with cold to help dissolve the detergent for 20 seconds. Only hot after until full. If I use normal without steam, you can hear the hot and cold mix valve alternating. Quick wash can be medium hot with no steam. It doesn't add cold water to the wash. Our water heater is set to about 140f. Steam and the hotest wash temp activates the heater. You can hear it heating the water with a mild simmer. Normal cycle steam is at the end of the wash for stain removal. Heavy duty is hotter water the entire wash. Steam is an option for bedding, whites and delicate also.
 
I used to use the extra hot and steam setting on my LG. It was hot but not super hot as the commercial UniMac machines I use once a week. I was once convinced that a heater makes a big difference but later found that wasn't the case on my end, I couldn't even tell especially if I did cold wash. And that's probably because I don't get my laundry super dirty. Regarding combos, I did thought of getting one for the hunting cabin during renovation. However, I realized that I'd be doing laundry longer versus just getting a stackable set so I can wash and dry at the same time. So I just went ahead and got a SQ SF7 instead.
 
Some people can hem and haw all the want on how newer machines have more flexibility etc, but there’s not much flexibility, if any at all. Usually you’ll be locked out of certain options, and when you select ‘hot’, it’s usually warm which is not true hot water.

If I select hot or warm water, expect it to be warm or hot water, not the supposed “hot” or “warm” water today.

Makes me ever more glad I own a TOL Maytag A806 along with a Whirlpool Imperial Mark 18 which allows me to select whatever options I want without locking me out or limiting options available.

I almost ALWAYS select a gentle wash with fast spin on both of my TOL machines with the exception of Knit or Permanent Press items.

When you let they sky be the limit in terms of options and such, you will almost always select the ones that are actually needed and allow for the most economical way of operation, gentle wash with fast spin for example to reduce drying times etc.
Like me, you like and are entitled to and freedom of choice, not something of a controlling nature.
Hot is HOT.... period.

When I do a load of T shirts that are only sweated up but not filthy, I'll set the dial on Normal, for 5 or 6 minutes, no need to run the full 12 minutes.
Same for jeans.
 
Like me, you like and are entitled to and freedom of choice, not something of a controlling nature.
Hot is HOT.... period.

When I do a load of T shirts that are only sweated up but not filthy, I'll set the dial on Normal, for 5 or 6 minutes, no need to run the full 12 minutes.
Same for jeans.
I do the same with one queen sheet, and 4 pillow cases weekly. A 26 minute quick was on hot with one rinse is enough.
 
I do the same with one queen sheet, and 4 pillow cases weekly. A 26 minute quick was on hot with one rinse is enough.
My hotwater heater is set at 120-130 degrees, (measured) and near the washer.
It's maybe 20 feet of copper piping between them, with that tubular foam-surround insulation on the hot water pipe.
To me, that's hot enough, with the steam vapors rising from the washer.
 
I am surprised Electrolux have not had a go of introducing combos in the USA. Their 120V 24" US Washing Machine (ELFW4222AW) features a 1400 RPM spin which does not seem so common over there. Plus in Europe they offer a load of 24" hydro-condenser washer dryers with spin speeds of either 1400 or 1600 RPM, plus a 220V 24" Heat Pump combo with a 1600 RPM spin. (Haier have recently introduced a similar machine in Europe too [HWD120-BD16397EUK]).

Since they make 27" washing machines already in the USA, I wonder if Electrolux ever considered making a combo with there 27" cabinet, a 1400 or 1600 spin speed, plus either their hydro-condenser or heat pump drying systems. Arguably the bigger cabinet would be better for a heat-pump compared to their European model, as it would potentially allow for a larger compressor and heat exchanger too.
 
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For years, washing machines had spin speed of around 500 to 600 RPM.
With a roughly 5 minute spin time, the clothes came out damp-dry enough for a dryer to handle.
And life went on, without complaints.
I see no reason to spin garments at jet engine speeds.
It's all Marketing Propoganda.
 
For years, washing machines had spin speed of around 500 to 600 RPM.
With a roughly 5 minute spin time, the clothes came out damp-dry enough for a dryer to handle.
And life went on, without complaints.
I see no reason to spin garments at jet engine speeds.
It's all Marketing Propoganda.
RPMs are part of the considerations of drum design and spinning profile are also an influence, the European tests consider water extraction (1400-1600 is the sweet spot) – probably the most scientific measure is the residual moisture in a load after the final spin. The less moisture === the less time needed to dry
 
RPMs are part of the considerations of drum design and spinning profile are also an influence, the European tests consider water extraction (1400-1600 is the sweet spot) – probably the most scientific measure is the residual moisture in a load after the final spin. The less moisture === the less time needed to dry
I'm well aware that the higher the speed, the more water is extracted from fabrics.
I'm also aware that the tub bearings are put under additional stress, particularly with unbalanced loads - resulting in premature failure.
And with todays less-than-stellar manufacturing, that costs consumers more money.
 

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