Seeking advice for kd12.

[aloysius]

The second photo shows how high I could get the extension pipe on the drain pipe.

 

[aloysius]

The third photo shows where the p trap came without the extension pipe.

 

[aloysius]

The fourth and fifth photos show the repair with the Fernco coupling. I only had approximately an inch under the p trap as the next photo shows - so I could not configure the repair as suggested in the last post by stevet. I could not go into the basement without more work than I wanted to do because the basement is finished with a finished ceiling.

 

[aloysius]

Fifth photo.

 

[aloysius]

The repair seems to have been successful as it does not leak from that area now. However it leaks from around the two nuts on the long portion of the p trap. The final photo shows the start of a leak around one of the nuts. I had a plumber at the house for another problem and he could not get the nuts any tighter with the space available. He suggested applying some sealant around the nuts.

 

[aloysius]

I am curious about something else. The spray wand moves easily by hand. However when I tested the dishwasher immediately after the repair every time I opened the door the sprayer was in the same position. I did not let it run through a full cycle because I noticed the leaking at the nuts. Is the sprayer stationary at the beginning of the wash cycle or is there a potential problem with the water pressure?

Thanks again for any help.

 

[kenmore71]

The KD12 has a 1-1/2 minute purge at the beginning of the cycle where the pump runs, the water valve is open and the drain valve remains open. This is to help warm up the interior of machine since it immediately goes into the detergent wash after this purge. If you wait for that purge to end, the pump will shut off, the drain valve will close and the machine will start to fill up with water for main wash (approx 2-1/3 gallons). The leaking will also likely slow down or stop since the drain valve will close.

Here's the cycle chart:

 

[aloysius]

I will try to run through the cycles again and see what happens. However the photo of the leak was when I first noticed the leak and the leak continued for quite some time after I shut the machine off. It covered quite a large area under the machine. I assume that was from the water sitting in the pipes. I guess I could put some towels or a pan under the pipes and keep an eye on it while I am testing it again.

Thanks

 

[kenmore71]

When you shut the machine off did you disconnect the power or advance the timer dial to off? If so the drain valve solenoid will release and let any water that's in the machine drain.

 

[aloysius]

I advanced the timer dial to off. I am not even sure I know where to disconnect the power. Unless you mean the on/off switch in the upper right corner of the machine. Do I need to move the on/off switch to the off position as well or does it automatically go to the off position? I do not recall.

 

[kenmore71]

The gravity drain Kitchenaids were wired such that if you opened the door during one of the "washing" periods it cut the power to everything EXCEPT the signal light and the drain solenoid. Because, if you think about it, since the drain solenoid was energized to keep water IN, if you opened the door while it was washing and it cut power to the whole machine the water would drain OUT. If, however you advanced the timer dial past a washing period, the drain solenoid would not be energized through the timer anyways if you opened the door.

 

[aloysius]

Good news/Bad news

The good news is I turned on the dishwasher to go through the cycle of operation and it did cycle through the wash without leaking anywhere. Also the spray wand was revolving during the washing periods. The not so good news is that when I opened the lever and consequently the door the power was not cut off and the washing continued with water spraying out of the machine. This happened about 8 out of 10 times. Any suggestions?

 

[kenmore71]

The door switch is sticking.

 

[aloysius]

Where would I find the door switch? Does it just need some lubricant? WD40?

Thanks again for your help.

 

[kenmore71]

Upper right hand corner above and behind the start switch. The right hand door latch depresses the switch when the door is latched.
You need to figure out why it's not releasing when you open the door.
Lubricant rarely helps and is almost always a bad idea when electrical switches are involved.

 

[aloysius]

Thanks for your help. I have been too busy and just had a chance to let you know what I found. I found the switch and the problem seems to be the metal lever that cuts the power gets stuck when the handle is opened slowly and carefully. When that happens I can just touch the metal tab or lever with my finger and the power is cut. However when the handle is opened rapidly (not jerked - just rapidly) the power cuts each time. Think I should just leave that alone until it never works? Is it possible it might loosen up and begin to work better with more use?

 

[stevet]

Another obscure part needed!

The part that you are referring to is called a switch actuator and is a copper colored, thin springy piece that buffers the action of the locking arm from the door and gently presses on the microswitch to interrupt the power flow.

The part number is 060087 and is basically NLA. There are Hobart offices that show that they may have some available. The list price is 23.95.

You might call the Cape Girardeau office and maybe the Mansfield,Ohio office and see if they still have any they are willing to sell you.

I don't want to tell you how many I changed out on the UM machines years ago. But they usually did hundreds of cycles a day compared to anything a homeowner could throw at their Kitchenaids!

IIRC, I stocked at least 15 or 20 of them on the truck along with a couple of the micro switches.

 

[aloysius]

Found one.

Thanks for the info. I called Cape Girardeau and Mansfield. Mansfield quit carrying Kitchenaid parts quite some time ago. However Cape Girardeau had three switch actuators, part Number: 060087 with a cost of $23.95 each. I have decided to move the dishwasher to the house I am remodeling and I will try to replace the switch at that time. Thanks again for all your help.

 

[stevet]

Never say Kitchenaid!

I forgot to RE-mention that when calling any Hobart office, never say you want Kitchenaid parts. They sold it nearly 27 years ago to Whirlpool so most people working nowadays for Hobart don't even know that Kitchenaid belonged to Hobart at one time. Just give them the part numbers you want and go from there. Many of the parts were interchangeable as the commercial and domestic machines shared the same designs and engineering.

I will endeavor to provide the Hobart model numbers where applicable so if they should ask, you can say the "right" thing. There are still some of us out there that remember and some parts personnel who know what the deal is as well, but they are few and far between.

Glad you were able to find the actuator, but don't delay buying it because they can be gone before you know it. And anyone who still has a Kitchenaid of that vintage or even a UM machine they are using, should have one or more of those actuators as a definite spare part. They do break eventually!

 

[aloysius]

Copy that.

I did order the part when I was on the phone with the parts dept. in Cape Girardeau. It should be on its way right now.

I may have to ask for more help when I get to the installation at the remodel.

Thanks again.