deconstruction
Member
6033G
By the way, where should I find the serial number?
By the way, where should I find the serial number?
Servis Quartz Club
- Thread starter sesteve
- Start date
Help Support :
deconstruction
Member
6033G
I think I forgot to actually post a previous message after previewing it
so here it is (again).
Thank you for the link, I have sent chestermike a message on EBAY.
The small-bore rubber tube has been replaced (old cars are one of my other hobbies).
And I've cleaned out some dust and spiders' webs. There are a few patches of rust on the inside of the cabinet and some rusty threads but I will wait until I'm sure the machine works before dismantling it to recondition these.
The drain-pump seemed a bit grimy so I took it out and cleaned it up a bit. I suppose I could test that on the workbench.
So that broken rubber pipe is part of a pressure-sensing system? What might be the effect of the system being open?
Are any technical drawings and manuals of the 603x available?
I think I forgot to actually post a previous message after previewing it
so here it is (again). Thank you for the link, I have sent chestermike a message on EBAY.
The small-bore rubber tube has been replaced (old cars are one of my other hobbies).
And I've cleaned out some dust and spiders' webs. There are a few patches of rust on the inside of the cabinet and some rusty threads but I will wait until I'm sure the machine works before dismantling it to recondition these.
The drain-pump seemed a bit grimy so I took it out and cleaned it up a bit. I suppose I could test that on the workbench.
So that broken rubber pipe is part of a pressure-sensing system? What might be the effect of the system being open?
Are any technical drawings and manuals of the 603x available?
deconstruction
Member
6033G
Unfortunately, no door seal available from the EBAY link Chris provided. Anyone any other ideas?
Unfortunately, no door seal available from the EBAY link Chris provided. Anyone any other ideas?
Door Seal
Will check a few sites here and get back to you, inbox me your postcode address for mailing costs etc..
Is it the schematics breakdown n parts list you are wanting for the Quartz 6k series ?
Will check a few sites here and get back to you, inbox me your postcode address for mailing costs etc..
Is it the schematics breakdown n parts list you are wanting for the Quartz 6k series ?
deconstruction
Member
6033G
I'm very grateful for your help and advice.
Yes, for the 6033G or general Quartz 6xxx range.
I'm very grateful for your help and advice.
Yes, for the 6033G or general Quartz 6xxx range.
deconstruction
Member
6033G
Good new, I think that I have found a new door seal!
Good new, I think that I have found a new door seal!
deconstruction
Member
Return Of The Quartz
The project continues.
The little rubber-pipe has been replaced and I managed to obtain a new door-seal and fit it (!@#).
After putting some water into the drum through the soap-tray to check for leaks there was a dribble from the seal at the drum joint but tightening the retaining-band stopped it.
With no other problems apparent, I decided to risk a programme.
Chose E (30° 'quickwash') and started it.
Familiar, comforting sights and sounds: both water valves opened and the machine filled, the drum turned now and again, no leaks or strange noises but after about 1 minute, an error-code - alternating F and 4 - appeared in the display and the action stopped.
Drained the machine manually by lowering the drain hose.
So, questions:
1. what does F4 mean?
2. does anyone have a list of all error-codes?
3. is it possible to get the machine to empty using the keys? i.e. get the drain-pump to run
Of course slightly disappointing but realistically it's still progress because this 6033 hasn't been run since 1997!
As always grateful for any advice
The project continues.
The little rubber-pipe has been replaced and I managed to obtain a new door-seal and fit it (!@#).
After putting some water into the drum through the soap-tray to check for leaks there was a dribble from the seal at the drum joint but tightening the retaining-band stopped it.
With no other problems apparent, I decided to risk a programme.
Chose E (30° 'quickwash') and started it.
Familiar, comforting sights and sounds: both water valves opened and the machine filled, the drum turned now and again, no leaks or strange noises but after about 1 minute, an error-code - alternating F and 4 - appeared in the display and the action stopped.
Drained the machine manually by lowering the drain hose.
So, questions:
1. what does F4 mean?
2. does anyone have a list of all error-codes?
3. is it possible to get the machine to empty using the keys? i.e. get the drain-pump to run
Of course slightly disappointing but realistically it's still progress because this 6033 hasn't been run since 1997!
As always grateful for any advice
deconstruction
Member
Return...
Just found some codes online; could someone confirm if these are correct for the 6033?
F1
Water heating error detected
For this error code you need to check both the water heater or element and thermistor, the washing machine is reporting a fault on the heating circuit with this fault code but it is not capable of identifying exactly where the fault actually lies.
<ul>
<li>Check water heating element </li>
<li>Check heater for contunuity </li>
<li>Check thermistor or temperature sensor </li>
<li>Check the thermistor resistance </li>
<li>Check wiring to water heating element </li>
<li>Check connections to water heating element and temperature sensor </li>
</ul>
F2
Water fill time out
The washing machine has failed to fill with water in a reasonable time.
<ul>
<li>Check water supply is on, clear and not frozen </li>
<li>Check the air chamber and pressure sensor hose for blockages </li>
<li>Check water inlet valve </li>
<li>Check wiring to water inlet valve </li>
<li>Check connections to water inlet valve </li>
<li>Check the main control PCB </li>
</ul>
F3
Not drained in time allowed
Washing machine fails to drain water
<ul>
<li>Check that filter is not blocked or obstructed </li>
<li>Check drain hose is clear of any blockage or obstruction </li>
<li>Check wiring to drain pump </li>
<li>Check drain pump is not defective </li>
<li>Check level sensor or switch </li>
<li>Check wiring to level sensor </li>
</ul>
F4
Washing machine has detected an overfill situation
This error code can be caused by overfoaming which is a result of overloading (see this article) or by overdosing or, incorrect detergent as the pressure sensor will falsely read that there is too much water in the washing machine, although this was very rare in these old Servis washing machines.
<ul>
<li>Check the pressure sensor and that the machine has not actually overfilled with water. </li>
<li>Check for overfoaming or over soaping </li>
<li>Check the air chamber and the pressure switch hose </li>
<li>Check water level sensor </li>
<li>Check wiring to water pressure sensor </li>
<li>Check connections to water level sensor </li>
<li>Check main electronic controller </li>
</ul>
F5
Water heater fault
This fault code tells you that the washing machine has detected an error with the wash heating element.
<ul>
<li>Check water heating element</li>
</ul>
Just found some codes online; could someone confirm if these are correct for the 6033?
F1
Water heating error detected
For this error code you need to check both the water heater or element and thermistor, the washing machine is reporting a fault on the heating circuit with this fault code but it is not capable of identifying exactly where the fault actually lies.
<ul>
<li>Check water heating element </li>
<li>Check heater for contunuity </li>
<li>Check thermistor or temperature sensor </li>
<li>Check the thermistor resistance </li>
<li>Check wiring to water heating element </li>
<li>Check connections to water heating element and temperature sensor </li>
</ul>
F2
Water fill time out
The washing machine has failed to fill with water in a reasonable time.
<ul>
<li>Check water supply is on, clear and not frozen </li>
<li>Check the air chamber and pressure sensor hose for blockages </li>
<li>Check water inlet valve </li>
<li>Check wiring to water inlet valve </li>
<li>Check connections to water inlet valve </li>
<li>Check the main control PCB </li>
</ul>
F3
Not drained in time allowed
Washing machine fails to drain water
<ul>
<li>Check that filter is not blocked or obstructed </li>
<li>Check drain hose is clear of any blockage or obstruction </li>
<li>Check wiring to drain pump </li>
<li>Check drain pump is not defective </li>
<li>Check level sensor or switch </li>
<li>Check wiring to level sensor </li>
</ul>
F4
Washing machine has detected an overfill situation
This error code can be caused by overfoaming which is a result of overloading (see this article) or by overdosing or, incorrect detergent as the pressure sensor will falsely read that there is too much water in the washing machine, although this was very rare in these old Servis washing machines.
<ul>
<li>Check the pressure sensor and that the machine has not actually overfilled with water. </li>
<li>Check for overfoaming or over soaping </li>
<li>Check the air chamber and the pressure switch hose </li>
<li>Check water level sensor </li>
<li>Check wiring to water pressure sensor </li>
<li>Check connections to water level sensor </li>
<li>Check main electronic controller </li>
</ul>
F5
Water heater fault
This fault code tells you that the washing machine has detected an error with the wash heating element.
<ul>
<li>Check water heating element</li>
</ul>
Servis Quartz-Error F4
Hi deconstruction, just found your post. The error code F4 almost certainly relates to a motor/tacho fault.First thing to do is remove the "power-board", the PCB down beside the motor & check that the motor hasn't blown the board, which is normally visually evident, the large connector at the bottom of the PCB as you look at it.
If you're lucky, it might just be a case of the motor brushes/carbone needing replaced.If the PCB/board is blown, I can perhaps help with that if you're of a mind to fix it.Personally, I'm looking for a motor for a servis Quartz 6035, if you've 1 of those kickin' about.
Hi deconstruction, just found your post. The error code F4 almost certainly relates to a motor/tacho fault.First thing to do is remove the "power-board", the PCB down beside the motor & check that the motor hasn't blown the board, which is normally visually evident, the large connector at the bottom of the PCB as you look at it.
If you're lucky, it might just be a case of the motor brushes/carbone needing replaced.If the PCB/board is blown, I can perhaps help with that if you're of a mind to fix it.Personally, I'm looking for a motor for a servis Quartz 6035, if you've 1 of those kickin' about.
deconstruction
Member
6033G F4
Thank you for the suggestions.
I do not have a motor for 6035, sorry.
I will have a look at the PCB and report back here.
Do you mean the brushes of the main motor? It does revolve the drum a little, without unpleasant noises.
Thank you for the suggestions.
I do not have a motor for 6035, sorry.
I will have a look at the PCB and report back here.
Do you mean the brushes of the main motor? It does revolve the drum a little, without unpleasant noises.
deconstruction
Member
6033G motherboard
Included in this post are photographs of the front and back of the motherboard.
What kind of damage should I be looking for?
Next job, examine the carbon brushes in the motor.
Included in this post are photographs of the front and back of the motherboard.
What kind of damage should I be looking for?
Next job, examine the carbon brushes in the motor.
deconstruction
Member
6033G motor brushes
I removed the motor to examine the brushes.
Each brush has at least 5mm of the carbon rod protruding and the spring loading works. No sign of burning.
I removed the motor to examine the brushes.
Each brush has at least 5mm of the carbon rod protruding and the spring loading works. No sign of burning.
5mm is too short
They're normally 20-30 mm so they've worn out I think
Richard
They're normally 20-30 mm so they've worn out I think
Richard
deconstruction
Member
6033 brushes
Then even if they still work I should replace them.
These - from gcr-suffolk and ebay - look right but Servis is not listed, only Creda, Electra, Gala, Hotpoint etc.
Can anyone confirm if these are suitable or, if not, a part reference number for the correct carbons?
Then even if they still work I should replace them.
These - from gcr-suffolk and ebay - look right but Servis is not listed, only Creda, Electra, Gala, Hotpoint etc.
Can anyone confirm if these are suitable or, if not, a part reference number for the correct carbons?
sesteve
Well-known member
I'm not 100% certain but I think these are GEC motors so they should fit - I don't have a parts list to check but you can find these brushes quite readily and cheaply on Ebay so just check around for cost as they are quite universal. I think even though I have had mine to bits (as above) I never looked at the motor as that seemed to be the bit that was working fine!
The power board looks fine and F$ is a motor tacho fault - motor too fast or too slow so the brushes are a good place to start along with the tacho coil at the back of the motor.
Take a couple more pictures of the motor if you get the chance.
S
The power board looks fine and F$ is a motor tacho fault - motor too fast or too slow so the brushes are a good place to start along with the tacho coil at the back of the motor.
Take a couple more pictures of the motor if you get the chance.
S
deconstruction
Member
6033G motor
Thanks for the advice.
I decided to risk a pair of carbons offered on EBAY (not expensive).
And one evening this week I might manage a photograph of the motor (the machine is now wrapped up again so that birds do not get into it
).
Thanks for the advice.
I decided to risk a pair of carbons offered on EBAY (not expensive).
And one evening this week I might manage a photograph of the motor (the machine is now wrapped up again so that birds do not get into it
deconstruction
Member
6033G motor
So, after a pause of a few weeks I have had another go at the machine.
The new carbons seem not to fit. The basic design / form is very similar but there are several detail differences. At first I thought that it was only an updated design but there is a problem: they slide into the motor in the same way but not quite far enough to allow the retaining wings to clear the body of the motor and so they will not lock into place.
Are there many different types of carbon?
Is cleaning the armature essential?
I attach photographs of the motor sticker and of the original (black) and new (grey-blue) carbons.
So, after a pause of a few weeks I have had another go at the machine.
The new carbons seem not to fit. The basic design / form is very similar but there are several detail differences. At first I thought that it was only an updated design but there is a problem: they slide into the motor in the same way but not quite far enough to allow the retaining wings to clear the body of the motor and so they will not lock into place.
Are there many different types of carbon?
Is cleaning the armature essential?
I attach photographs of the motor sticker and of the original (black) and new (grey-blue) carbons.
deconstruction
Member
6033G motor
<span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #0000ff;">sesteve</span> what kind of photographs of the motor do you want?
<span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #0000ff;">sesteve</span> what kind of photographs of the motor do you want?
sesteve
Well-known member
As luck would have it I have my quartz stripped down as I fixed the heating issue but there was a leak and the bearing seal needed replacing. I will update with some pictures on all that when it's back together and working.
I've taken the motor off today to look at the brushes and they are worn right down so am replacing them. My new ones are held together with an elastic band to keep the carbon in its holder but the ones you have have a small tab that you need to bend to release the brush from its holder so it pops out and ends up springing in and out. They should fit as it's a basic GEC motor the same as the hotpoints and those are the right brushes. I've had to push quite firmly to get them to lock in place - much easier with the motor out of the machine.
I would give it another try and see as I can't see from your pictures why they wouldn't fit.
S
I've taken the motor off today to look at the brushes and they are worn right down so am replacing them. My new ones are held together with an elastic band to keep the carbon in its holder but the ones you have have a small tab that you need to bend to release the brush from its holder so it pops out and ends up springing in and out. They should fit as it's a basic GEC motor the same as the hotpoints and those are the right brushes. I've had to push quite firmly to get them to lock in place - much easier with the motor out of the machine.
I would give it another try and see as I can't see from your pictures why they wouldn't fit.
S
deconstruction
Member
6033G motor brushes
Thank you for the advice.
It occurred to me later that the problem seems only to be that the new brush-unit will not lock in place. This is caused by the length of the wings.
Otherwise the fit seems to be good (and all I have to do is push in the little tab to allow the carbon rod to spring out onto the armature).
So perhaps I should trim the wings...
Thank you for the advice.
It occurred to me later that the problem seems only to be that the new brush-unit will not lock in place. This is caused by the length of the wings.
Otherwise the fit seems to be good (and all I have to do is push in the little tab to allow the carbon rod to spring out onto the armature).
So perhaps I should trim the wings...
