vintage DW's
There is not one thing wrong with the GE you posted, its just BOL and doesn't have some of the capabilities of higher level GE's.
My parents has a similar GE, about ten years older, it was a next to the TOL Potscrubber. It had, basically, the same wash system, however, and similar racks, just a few more cycles to give an extended wash, etc.
It washed quite well. We had a Modern Maid (D&M) previous to the GE. The GE washed rings around the Modern Maid, and my mom exclaimed, shortly after we got the GE, "I never knew a dishwasher could be so good!" It did not have the food filter as the one you posted does not but it did a very good job.
You would like it. Yes you can get the better deluxe rack, but you can still hold plenty of dishes in that rack. It might be nice to have some sound insulation and an exstended cycle for pots/pans. But for a good basic machine, that GE is fine.a
The point is, it's too expensive for it's age and being BOL. For the same 50 you can get an upper level GE with the filter which will give you slightly shinier dishes. I have had both. I prefer the filtered models, but the unfiltered still do a good job. Better than many other brands.
The GSD 2230, if I recall, also does not have the passive filtration. But it does have a slightly better wash arm, and it has the "Hot Start" option if you have a long run from your hot water tank to your kitchen, or your water is not as hot as you would like it.
It also has the extended wash. But aesthetically, you have a yellowed control panel which doesn't look too good, and you have the same top rack as in the BOL you posted. It will still do a good job, overall, however. But that doen't mean you can't do better for similar costs.
If you are not in a hurry, keep looking. I have many back issues of Consumer Reports if you find something and want me to give you the comparative ratings, just ask.
No matter what brand, the killers for all dishwashers are:
1.) hard water (hardness above about 12 grains per gallon TDS (total dissolved solids) will show in your dishwasher performance. When you get into the 20's and higher TDS you are binding your detergent molecules with the calclium so you will get reduced washing performance and you may get calcium (calcite) spots remaining on your glassware and flatware...possibly even with a rinse agent.
2.) Water entering your dishwasher less than 120 deg F. I can't tell you how many people I know who set their hot water tanks at 120 deg F and then complain about washing ability of their machine. Water must ENTER your machine at least at a temp of 120 deg F. A typical home sees an average of 8 deg to 12 drop in temperature as water flows through the household plumbing. Using a cooking thermometer and check your water temperature at the sink closest to your dishwasher and it runs for awhile. Set your water heater so it is at least 120 coming out of the faucets. (I keep so so water at the machine is 134 deg F) Also flush cold water before you start the machine (unless you have GE's "Hot Start.)
3.) Cheap or poorly formulated detergent. Look in Consumer Reports and get a decent DW detergent. Pennywise is pound foolish and buying a cheap store brand detergent or otherwise poor performer will not be doing you or you dishwasher any favors.
There are some exceptions, but Consumer Reports found, in general, the best performers were the packets/tablets. Powders tended to be middling and, in general, the gels were at the bottom...as were many of the "ecology" brands.
I like Cascade Platinum 16X, Finish Powerball Max-In-One, and Finish Quantum. All seem to work well in a variety of water chemistries and good are removing most food residue. I alternate between these three. Check Consumer Reports for the most recent tests.
Many on this site have their favorite machines, so do I. There are many, many good machines, especially vintage ones that will do an amazing job for you. Mind the three things above, Soft water, Hot water and Quality Detergent and your machine will thank you.