Soap Cover Doesn't Open-Kitchenaid KUDS230B

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At what point do I check the water level? During the wash cycle?

I took the door panel off. It doesn't look too bad.
Are there two bimetals? One for each door? Why would
both doors be acting up?

Can I run it with the door panel off and look for
something?
 
I added some info so I reposted this:

At what point do I check the water level? During the wash cycle?

I took the door panel off. It doesn't look too bad.
Are there two bimetals? One for each door? Why would
both doors be acting up?

Can I run it with the door panel off and look for
something?

Edit:
I found this info online. It this test accurate?
Should I get a multimeter?

How to test a bimetal switch:

More on bimetal switch:
 
I added some info so I reposted this:

At what point do I check the water level? During the wash cycle?

I took the door panel off. It doesn't look too bad.
Are there two bimetals? One for each door? Why would
both doors be acting up?

Can I run it with the door panel off and look for
something?

Edit:
I found this info online. It this test accurate?
Should I get a multimeter?

How to test a bimetal switch:

More on bimetal switch:

Update:

I loosened the screws and moved the bimetal switches
so they don't have to bend as far. I did three runs
with normal cycle and observed with the door panel
off. Both doors opened all three times.

Also checked the water level. It is over the strainer
and at the bottom of the dark disc that the wash arm
is seated on.
 
By Golly! He's got it!

Joe, sounds like you fixed the problem. Sorry I took so long to respond. Had to get things ready for this stupid tropical stoprm which may now impact Palm Coast as a hurricane!

I mentioned adjusting the bimetals slightly out from the hooks so to speak and that is even a factory recommendation to fix the problem.
Also, the water level seems to be spot on so you should draw the proper amperage on the motor thru the bimetals.
If they continue to work,you have it licked!
While you have the door panels off, maybe pack some unfaced fiberglass insulation in there to absorb some sound. just clear the dispenser and bimetals and you will quiet it down some more.
 
Great!

What is your opinion of the test with a multimeter?

How to test a bimetal switch:
http://www.partselect.com/repair.aspx?appliance=dishwasher∂=test-bimetal-switch

I never mentioned anything about sound. Is this just
an added trick you're recommending?

Sorry if I got a bit impatient and spazzed out some
on my posts.

I appreciate your help!

Now I don't have anything to fix.
I'm bored :-)

I'll check back if I have anymore problems.

Good luck there with the hurricane.
 
I see what you mean on the link not working.

Here's part of it. What does this test tell? If the metal
is completely toasted?

-----------------------------
Now test for continuity using your multimeter. Set it to the x 1 ohms setting. Take each of the meter's probes and touch them to one terminal each. If you receive a reading of infinity, you should replace the switch.

Testing a bi-metal switch

Note:
Disconnect the power source to your dishwasher before you conduct this or any other test. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.

Before you can begin to test your dishwasher's bi-metal switch, you must first locate the device. It is located within the door assembly, in very close proximity to the detergent dispenser cup. You will need to gain access to the inside of the door.

Examine the outside of the appliance. Depending on the model, you will have to remove either the entire internal door panel, or the entire external door panel. In each case, the panel can be removed by removing anywhere from 6 - 10 screws. Be careful to not remove the screws at the very bottom of the door that are actually a part of the hinge assembly. Removing the hinge assembly screws will remove the entire door from the appliance, which is not at all necessary to test the unit's bi-metal switch. With all of the screws removed, the door panel should be easy to lift off of the door assembly. If you have difficulty lifting the panel, look for additional screws you may have missed.

With the door panel removed, locate your dishwasher's detergent dispenser cup and the bi-metal switch assembly. Before you begin to test the switch, you should first check its alignment. If the detergent cup door is open, shut it. Use a small screwdriver to gently push in on the metal until the door of the detergent cup opens. It might just be that the switch has fallen out of alignment. Sometimes, only a slight adjustment is needed to allow the switch to open the detergent cup door. If this is not the case with your dishwasher, continue with the test.

There are two wires connected to the bi-metal switch. Label them so that you will be able to correctly reconnect them later. Remove each of the two wires from their respective terminals - they are connected with slip-on connectors. When removing the wires, grasp the connectors and pull firmly. Do not pull on the wires themselves. You may want to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to help you.

Now test for continuity using your multimeter. Set it to the x 1 ohms setting. Take each of the meter's probes and touch them to one terminal each. If you receive a reading of infinity, you should replace the switch.

 
Yes indeed it has! I've run it about 7 times with both soap
doors opening. I thank you Steve for walking me through this.

I am curious how the multimeter test works in case I ever
need to test the switches. What does it show? If the switch
has broken metal or the temper, resistance?

Also what do you folks think of the rinse aid dispenser?
I have only filled it a few times in years.

How is the storm Steve? I hope you kept dry.

take care
 
I just found this thread, I have the same problem with a kitchenaid kudp220t6. Would this same information for a fix apply to my dishwasher. Thank you, Pat
 
My apologies, I didn't see this already existing archive thread when I first asked my question. I thought it would be easier to ask for a yes or no answer from the members rather than have them repeat all of the answers included in this older thread.
 
leaking waterfrom KA dishwasher KUD220t6

I don't believe this one thing after the other now. Waiting for guy to come and install the fill valve to be installed then the soap dispenser won't open {have to order part for it. now the machine is leaking water all over the floor. Suggestions as to what part I need now? Thank you, Pa tand yes I know I'm a pain in the neck, but I won't give up on this dishwasher.
 

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