liberatordeluxe
Well-known member
Is 800 rpm fast enough to get laundry sufficiently dry particularly cottons?
Spin Speeds
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dave886
Well-known member
800rpm isn't really fast in my opinion, 1000rpm is the minimum standard in most basic machines today. I couldn't live without my 1400rpm on my machine, which spins for a long 23mins
whitetub
Well-known member
23 minutes of spinning..... I would lose my patience, waiting for the machine to stop.
liberatordeluxe
Well-known member
My Bosch has variable but top speed is 1200. The older hotpoints used to be 800 rpm didn't they and from what I remember washing took a lot longer to dry than what we have now.
It's the length of the spin rather than solely the speed which will determine how dry items get. I remember tests in the 90s where AEG / Bosch / Siemens lower end machines with slower spin speeds did better than Hotpoints / Aristons and others with 'fast' spins that only got to the top speed for a short amount of time.
What machine do you have that it does a 23 minute spin cycle? That's excessive!
What machine do you have that it does a 23 minute spin cycle? That's excessive!
I remember in the 1970s and even in the 80s 800 rpm was considered a high spin speed for an automatic and those washers were considerably more expensive.
Of course by today`s standarts a residual moisture content of about 70% isn`t that great, but back then it was good enough for most people to finally ditch their separate spin drier.
Of course by today`s standarts a residual moisture content of about 70% isn`t that great, but back then it was good enough for most people to finally ditch their separate spin drier.
I doubt it's 23 minutes full speed.
Time indeed plays a role, but even the longest 1000rpm spins don't get close to 1400rpm. Meanwhile, a short (approximatley 60 second) 1600rpm burst does an about equal job to an average 1400rpm spin cycle in my experience.
But there is the factor of drum size and as a result actual drum speed as well as the size of the load as well.
If the tub is bigger in diameter, it factly spins faster at the same rpm than a smaller drum. Higher speeds mean higher G-force.
If the load is bigger, more laundry per surface area means more force per area equals better extraction.
For me, 800rpm are just about right for big blankets and woolens. That or less for actual delicates. 1000 for crease care, 1200/1400 for everyday loads and a long 1600rpm for everything that goes into the dryer.
Time indeed plays a role, but even the longest 1000rpm spins don't get close to 1400rpm. Meanwhile, a short (approximatley 60 second) 1600rpm burst does an about equal job to an average 1400rpm spin cycle in my experience.
But there is the factor of drum size and as a result actual drum speed as well as the size of the load as well.
If the tub is bigger in diameter, it factly spins faster at the same rpm than a smaller drum. Higher speeds mean higher G-force.
If the load is bigger, more laundry per surface area means more force per area equals better extraction.
For me, 800rpm are just about right for big blankets and woolens. That or less for actual delicates. 1000 for crease care, 1200/1400 for everyday loads and a long 1600rpm for everything that goes into the dryer.
The time of spin has a big effect on the difference in performance between machines. The Bravos spins at 1100 rpm when set to Max Extract, but that speed is only actually acheived in the last 1-2 minutes of the final spin cycle. I've found that since the machine was replaced, and I'm doing everything I can to alleviate stress points where I can, the "Medium" spin speed tops at around 800 rpm, and adds more time to the spin. I can't tell a difference at all between the dryness levels of clothes spun at max speed vs. medium. And like henene said above, tub diameter plays a huge role in that as well. The WP top load agitator washer I have also spins at about 800rpm I believe, but there's a HUGE difference between how dry the two washers leave the load at the end of the cycle, because the Bravos has a much wider tub, and the WP doesn't spin as long as I would like it to.
In my opinion, a lower spin speed paired with a longer period of time is just as effective as supersonic speeds in a short burst, but I do strongly believe that keeping the spins slightly lower will do wonders to help bearings last longer. In the handful of loads I've done so far with this replacement machine, I've set the spin to medium, and it actually defaults to that on most cycles unless changed and the memory keeps the setting, and I've not noticed a bit of difference in dry times, but I do feel more at ease in that I'm not putting unnecessary wear on the drive system. The 1100rpm spin is quite entertaining to watch and hear, but I don't see any point in the damage it could cause overtime if it doesn't really make a big difference, and waiting a few more minutes for the load to finish doesn't bother me in the slightest.
In my opinion, a lower spin speed paired with a longer period of time is just as effective as supersonic speeds in a short burst, but I do strongly believe that keeping the spins slightly lower will do wonders to help bearings last longer. In the handful of loads I've done so far with this replacement machine, I've set the spin to medium, and it actually defaults to that on most cycles unless changed and the memory keeps the setting, and I've not noticed a bit of difference in dry times, but I do feel more at ease in that I'm not putting unnecessary wear on the drive system. The 1100rpm spin is quite entertaining to watch and hear, but I don't see any point in the damage it could cause overtime if it doesn't really make a big difference, and waiting a few more minutes for the load to finish doesn't bother me in the slightest.
Too many variables to the OP's query to give an answer without further information.
Dry enough for cottons to what end? Hang dry? Tumble dry? Tumble dry using less energy? Damp dry for ironing?
High extraction speeds in both commercial and domestic laundry serve to reduce energy use. That is with less residual moisture less heat is required by the ironers/for ironing or tumble dryers to evaporate. In much of Europe where energy costs are high and resources scarce it makes sense to increase efficiency by extracting as much water from laundry as possible. Again this makes the drying less energy intensive.
However there are limits.
My AEG Oko-Lavamat goes up to 1800rpms but the chart in owner's manual shows what you can find elsewhere; there is a gradual diminishing of returns in terms of remaining moisture from say 1200 to 1800 rpms. Main difference comes from 800 or less rpms to 1000 or 1200 rpms. This drop off around the 1200 mark to the point of being a one percent or so difference between that number and 1800 rpms.
However there are several other factors to consider.
Long high speed extraction is hard on laundry and can also be for the machine. The latter is especially true if it often does such spins with heavy and unbalanced loads. Just look at how many older front loaders with "slow" final spin speeds that are still around with their original bearings. Meanwhile plenty of high speed washers barely last five or so years. Of course there are other contributing factors such as design and build quality....
Spinning things too fast and or for too long can create creases that no amount of ironing or tumble drying will remove. It certainly makes the job of ironing more difficult as one has to shift all those creases. You notice most "no iron" shirt programs have low and or special spin designs to avoid creating creases. My Lavamat does 1200 rpms for final spin with that program but only for about two minutes.
If using a condenser type dryer, then yes, you want to get as much moisture out of laundry as possible. In fact the only time one really uses the 1800 final spin with the Lavamat is for laundry going into the Lavatherm dryer.
Dry enough for cottons to what end? Hang dry? Tumble dry? Tumble dry using less energy? Damp dry for ironing?
High extraction speeds in both commercial and domestic laundry serve to reduce energy use. That is with less residual moisture less heat is required by the ironers/for ironing or tumble dryers to evaporate. In much of Europe where energy costs are high and resources scarce it makes sense to increase efficiency by extracting as much water from laundry as possible. Again this makes the drying less energy intensive.
However there are limits.
My AEG Oko-Lavamat goes up to 1800rpms but the chart in owner's manual shows what you can find elsewhere; there is a gradual diminishing of returns in terms of remaining moisture from say 1200 to 1800 rpms. Main difference comes from 800 or less rpms to 1000 or 1200 rpms. This drop off around the 1200 mark to the point of being a one percent or so difference between that number and 1800 rpms.
However there are several other factors to consider.
Long high speed extraction is hard on laundry and can also be for the machine. The latter is especially true if it often does such spins with heavy and unbalanced loads. Just look at how many older front loaders with "slow" final spin speeds that are still around with their original bearings. Meanwhile plenty of high speed washers barely last five or so years. Of course there are other contributing factors such as design and build quality....
Spinning things too fast and or for too long can create creases that no amount of ironing or tumble drying will remove. It certainly makes the job of ironing more difficult as one has to shift all those creases. You notice most "no iron" shirt programs have low and or special spin designs to avoid creating creases. My Lavamat does 1200 rpms for final spin with that program but only for about two minutes.
If using a condenser type dryer, then yes, you want to get as much moisture out of laundry as possible. In fact the only time one really uses the 1800 final spin with the Lavamat is for laundry going into the Lavatherm dryer.
Is 800rpm adequate...
In a word Yes it can be for any fabrics but depends on how you wish to dry clothing in terms of speed, efficiency and cost!! years ago 800 was all we had and you didn't know any different, you either used a separate spin dryer or they stayed on the line longer - mind that was when any Uk produced Hoover Hotpoint and Servis did a cotton wash in under an hour and you could get it on the line by 10am - now you would have to have a wash going by 7am to achieve that...
Personally I love the large 8kg 1400 spin ratio or the 5 - 7kg 1600rpm, there is a difference on drying times and costs with lower speeds and certainly from a 1200rpm spin of any size, spinning time is also a big factor although most programmes operating on 20 23 mins are usually a vary profile spin action , tumbling whilst throwing most of the water at low revolutions, the main spin is usually around 9 mins continuous and usually building in spin speed - i.e. 1600 usually for the last few mins.
I think inertia is also a key factor, the 800 spin of an 80's Zanusi with and induction motor used to slowly coast up to 800, and brush motor say from Hoover used to go from 0 - 800 in a few seconds and I think that g force always produced a better extraction by models I used with the same bedding!!
Am just using a Hoover slope front Keymatic with a bevelled middle tub and slanted drum spinning @ 740rpm and its amazing how good the extraction is.!! And think of all those spinners whizzing at 2,800 we even spun woollens and delicates in them but just adjusted the time!!!
Its all in the Spin, Time, Revolutions and Inertia!! - Happy Spinning.
In a word Yes it can be for any fabrics but depends on how you wish to dry clothing in terms of speed, efficiency and cost!! years ago 800 was all we had and you didn't know any different, you either used a separate spin dryer or they stayed on the line longer - mind that was when any Uk produced Hoover Hotpoint and Servis did a cotton wash in under an hour and you could get it on the line by 10am - now you would have to have a wash going by 7am to achieve that...
Personally I love the large 8kg 1400 spin ratio or the 5 - 7kg 1600rpm, there is a difference on drying times and costs with lower speeds and certainly from a 1200rpm spin of any size, spinning time is also a big factor although most programmes operating on 20 23 mins are usually a vary profile spin action , tumbling whilst throwing most of the water at low revolutions, the main spin is usually around 9 mins continuous and usually building in spin speed - i.e. 1600 usually for the last few mins.
I think inertia is also a key factor, the 800 spin of an 80's Zanusi with and induction motor used to slowly coast up to 800, and brush motor say from Hoover used to go from 0 - 800 in a few seconds and I think that g force always produced a better extraction by models I used with the same bedding!!
Am just using a Hoover slope front Keymatic with a bevelled middle tub and slanted drum spinning @ 740rpm and its amazing how good the extraction is.!! And think of all those spinners whizzing at 2,800 we even spun woollens and delicates in them but just adjusted the time!!!
Its all in the Spin, Time, Revolutions and Inertia!! - Happy Spinning.
richnz
Well-known member
Does it not depend on the radius of the drum?
A larger radius drum doesn't have to spin as fast to generate large g-forces on the clothes. I find 1600rpm leads to wrinkly clothes but 800rpm takes two days on the clothes horse to dry.
A larger radius drum doesn't have to spin as fast to generate large g-forces on the clothes. I find 1600rpm leads to wrinkly clothes but 800rpm takes two days on the clothes horse to dry.
arbilab
Well-known member
Um, diameter has much less to do with it than RPM. Velocity is squared, diameter is not. My Chinese twinnie has a very small drum (~8") but at 1300rpm gets towels dry enough to use-- or dry in 20min with a standard residential dryer-- in 2 1/2min.
With a drum roughly 3x larger, my ElectroFrigiWhite FL @800rpm takes twice as long to dry the same load. However, for longevity the machine is programmed only to spin top speed for the last 2min out of 6.
But see 'twinnie' above. 1/3 the diameter, half again the speed, almost same time at top speed, twice the results. Of course, the twinnie can be manually balanced such that strain is minimal (it ain't rocket science, becomes intuitive). A fullsize TL can also be manually balanced if needed. A FL can be manually redistributed after waiting for the door to unlock but the results are hit/miss as the machine will repeat the distribution portion and may make the same mistake again.
With a drum roughly 3x larger, my ElectroFrigiWhite FL @800rpm takes twice as long to dry the same load. However, for longevity the machine is programmed only to spin top speed for the last 2min out of 6.
But see 'twinnie' above. 1/3 the diameter, half again the speed, almost same time at top speed, twice the results. Of course, the twinnie can be manually balanced such that strain is minimal (it ain't rocket science, becomes intuitive). A fullsize TL can also be manually balanced if needed. A FL can be manually redistributed after waiting for the door to unlock but the results are hit/miss as the machine will repeat the distribution portion and may make the same mistake again.
Spin Speed and Water Extraction
Spin Speed is by far the most important factor, then comes diameter of the tub, and finally the length of the spin cycle.
Hi Andrew, the main bearings will not be hurt by really fast spin speeds nearly as much as your dryer will running longer trying to dry wetter clothing.
In the repair end of things we basically NEVER see bad bearings in a washer unless the water seal failed and water got into the bearings.
The single biggest reason for water seal failure in almost any washer is mineral, scum, and other buildups around the seal area. This is ALWAYS caused by bad washing practices that leave all this crap behind. It can also be caused by running the machine with little or no detergent in the water, which is a reason to avoid over rinsing clothing especially if your water is not completely soft.
Spin Speed is by far the most important factor, then comes diameter of the tub, and finally the length of the spin cycle.
Hi Andrew, the main bearings will not be hurt by really fast spin speeds nearly as much as your dryer will running longer trying to dry wetter clothing.
In the repair end of things we basically NEVER see bad bearings in a washer unless the water seal failed and water got into the bearings.
The single biggest reason for water seal failure in almost any washer is mineral, scum, and other buildups around the seal area. This is ALWAYS caused by bad washing practices that leave all this crap behind. It can also be caused by running the machine with little or no detergent in the water, which is a reason to avoid over rinsing clothing especially if your water is not completely soft.
G-Forces, Radius and speed
"Velocity is squared, diameter is not." Sorry, but that is the dumbest thing I heared today, and I had a conversation about human rights with somebody today who said that not everybody has the equal right to live. Don't ask, it basicly was his job to do so.
You can't throw scales into the room and argue about squareing and such. Its simply not possible to make a point with that. No. Simply no.
And: F(centrifugal)=(m*v²)\r=m*r*(v\r)². Now, with the first, you right. It seems that v (velocity) is more important. HOWEVER you work with rpm. If 2 drums spin at 1400rpm, but one is bigger than the other, it has to spin faster. Further, as the second part of the formula shows, r is another multiplicator.
Lets do some examples:
Washer one has a drum radius of 20cm, spins at 1400 rpm.
Washer 2 has 20cm as well, but 1600rpm.
That means 40 pi cm circumfrence. Washer one has a speed of about 30m\s. Washer two boild down to 33,5m\s.
Washer three and four have a slightly bigger drum of 25cm radius and 1400rpm respectable.
So, 50 pi cm circumfrence, equal to 37m\s or 42m\s each.
Using the formula I get 716m\s² for washer one, 893m\s² for washer 2, washer 3 871m\s² and 1123m\s² for the fourth one. That equals about 72G, 91G, 89G and 115G. Now, that's not a lot compared to some others, somebody might correct me if I'm wrong. But I doubt it.
But now, thats just pure force. One would have to check surface area as well. If the load is concentrated on a smaller area, thats more force per area. That may be why your smaller spindryer is extracting more water: More laundry per area. Thus more force.
"Velocity is squared, diameter is not." Sorry, but that is the dumbest thing I heared today, and I had a conversation about human rights with somebody today who said that not everybody has the equal right to live. Don't ask, it basicly was his job to do so.
You can't throw scales into the room and argue about squareing and such. Its simply not possible to make a point with that. No. Simply no.
And: F(centrifugal)=(m*v²)\r=m*r*(v\r)². Now, with the first, you right. It seems that v (velocity) is more important. HOWEVER you work with rpm. If 2 drums spin at 1400rpm, but one is bigger than the other, it has to spin faster. Further, as the second part of the formula shows, r is another multiplicator.
Lets do some examples:
Washer one has a drum radius of 20cm, spins at 1400 rpm.
Washer 2 has 20cm as well, but 1600rpm.
That means 40 pi cm circumfrence. Washer one has a speed of about 30m\s. Washer two boild down to 33,5m\s.
Washer three and four have a slightly bigger drum of 25cm radius and 1400rpm respectable.
So, 50 pi cm circumfrence, equal to 37m\s or 42m\s each.
Using the formula I get 716m\s² for washer one, 893m\s² for washer 2, washer 3 871m\s² and 1123m\s² for the fourth one. That equals about 72G, 91G, 89G and 115G. Now, that's not a lot compared to some others, somebody might correct me if I'm wrong. But I doubt it.
But now, thats just pure force. One would have to check surface area as well. If the load is concentrated on a smaller area, thats more force per area. That may be why your smaller spindryer is extracting more water: More laundry per area. Thus more force.
Here is a handy little nomograph which is nice if you want to skip the math. This came from a site discussing relative G-force of laboratory centrifuges so the high end of the RPM scale is HIGH.
The formula I always used is:
G-Force = 1.12 x R(radius in mm) x (RPM/1000)^2
Indeed increases in both Radius and RPM increase G force, but RPM more so.
The formula I always used is:
G-Force = 1.12 x R(radius in mm) x (RPM/1000)^2
Indeed increases in both Radius and RPM increase G force, but RPM more so.
dave886
Well-known member
@dascot
I have a LG F1495KD first 3mins of the cycle is draining and tumbling, then it does one spin up to 1000rpm for 8mins then slow down to 400rpm then spins to gradually rises up 1400rpm spin for 5mins. Out of owning a zannusi 1400rpm, hotpoint 1600rpm, samusumg 1400rpm, LG has the best spin cycle, because my clothes have never felt drier & have less creases compared to using those other machines. Yes it sounds crazy 23min extraction cycle, and spinning at 1400rpm for 5mins, i guess thats one of the benefits of owning a direct drive washing machine. With todays technology anything possible
I have a LG F1495KD first 3mins of the cycle is draining and tumbling, then it does one spin up to 1000rpm for 8mins then slow down to 400rpm then spins to gradually rises up 1400rpm spin for 5mins. Out of owning a zannusi 1400rpm, hotpoint 1600rpm, samusumg 1400rpm, LG has the best spin cycle, because my clothes have never felt drier & have less creases compared to using those other machines. Yes it sounds crazy 23min extraction cycle, and spinning at 1400rpm for 5mins, i guess thats one of the benefits of owning a direct drive washing machine. With todays technology anything possible
aquarius1984
Well-known member
Im confused... 3 + 8 + 5 = 16 minutes for the spin programme. Im confused. why is that 23?
Its dascots Hotpoint I think that shows 23 minutes. LG excludes balancing time and usually displayed 17 or alike at the start of the spin.
Our Whirlpool\Bauknecht does a short 200-400rpm spin first, then check for balance again and either rebalances or goes on with its spin routine. It speeds up to 400rpm for bit, then to something between 400 and 1000 (I think 600 or likewise) for a bit, then to 1000 for another bit and then up to 1400rpm for the first time. This first birst takes about 5 minutes total. These first 1400rpm are held for 90 seconds. Then it slows down to that medium spin again. After 90 seconds it speeds up again to 1400rpm for 60-180 seconds depending on load size. The whole actual spin usually takes 10-12 minutes, with all fluffing times and the first spin its supposed to take 19 minutes until finish, but that's barley ever accurate. Either its faster or slower, but barley ever on the spot.
The AEG starts at 17 minutes. First minute is draining, At 16⏿ minutes, it balances to a roughly ok point. After a short burst to a maximum of 600rpm (it either aborts the burst before it reaches 600 or stops spinning just as it reached 600). If the spin was not aborted, it stays in distribution mode, senses the load again and the decides. If rebalancing is necessary, it slows down completly and starts distribution. Once it started spinning, it does a short stop at 600rpm to check for balance again. It either aborts again and repeats or goes on with spinning. If it decides it is well balanced, the time advances to 14 minutes and it speeds up to 1000rpm. If the spin is aborted from this point on, the washer stores a fault code. That never happend to us, though. At 12, it goes up to 1200rpm. At 11 or 10, it goes to max speed (either 1400 or 1600 rpm). This is kept for 150 seconds usually. Sometimes it might be 120, sometimes 180. Again, depending on load size. At 7 minutes, it slows down, fluffs and goes to unlock.
The Panasonic had a nice, verry clear and verry blockish spin sequence. Every non-delicate cycle (which means any cycle except Outdoor, Delicate and Wool) followed the same basic spin design.
It was based on the long Cottons spin (only used when a Cotton cycle was selected). Spins were akways the same, idependent of load size. At 21 minutes, draining started. Once drained, it advanced to 20 minutes and distributed for the first time. This extended to 18 minutes, where it stopped countdown. If a balance liad was achieved (sensing wasn't picky at that point), it did a first 2 minute 400rpm burst. Tha lasted throughout minutes 16+17. At minute 15, that restarted again. 3 minutes for balancing, 2 minutes 400rpm spin. At 10 minutes left, the ultra-sensitive sensing began. It stayed at 10 minutes rebalancing until almost perfect balance was achieved. The, it started speeding up with a equally stepped profil, reachin full speed at the 5 minute mark. At minute 2, it started slowing down. Minute 1 was for 4 fluffing tumbles, and then it unlocked the door.
If one selected a non-Cotton cycle , it basicly just cut of the first 2 spin bursts.
On Speed mode, it canceled the first 2 bursts, the fluffing and speeded up the speeding up process, which placed the magic balance mark at 7 minutes with an total estimate of 10 minutes.
On Eco mode on Cottons, the balancing was simmilar to Speed, the ramp up was equal to Cottons without option, but it doubled the time at max speed. As one could select options on seperate spins as well, that was my preffered option for respinning loads. Total time 14 minutes, magic time 13 minutes.
The Easy Iron option used the same spin sequence on any cycle one could set it. It would do 6 (I think) burst over 19 minutes, with the first half being low speed and the second half high speed (no higher then 800rpm). Rebalancing the load each time, it could not only take abit, but clothes came out questionable dry for an easy iron option.
The three extra cycles behaved in 2 ways: Delicates and wool simply took the last Cotton spin intervall and cut out any part of the ramp above their maximum speed. That left Delicates with 8 or 6 minutes with 800rpm max and woolens with 5 minutes at 500 max.
Outdoor used a 31 minute, non-adjustable spin. It maxed out at 800 and used several rebalances, spin patterns and timeshifts to remove water from watertight items. It was pretty over-engenered and didn't do so well either.
Our Whirlpool\Bauknecht does a short 200-400rpm spin first, then check for balance again and either rebalances or goes on with its spin routine. It speeds up to 400rpm for bit, then to something between 400 and 1000 (I think 600 or likewise) for a bit, then to 1000 for another bit and then up to 1400rpm for the first time. This first birst takes about 5 minutes total. These first 1400rpm are held for 90 seconds. Then it slows down to that medium spin again. After 90 seconds it speeds up again to 1400rpm for 60-180 seconds depending on load size. The whole actual spin usually takes 10-12 minutes, with all fluffing times and the first spin its supposed to take 19 minutes until finish, but that's barley ever accurate. Either its faster or slower, but barley ever on the spot.
The AEG starts at 17 minutes. First minute is draining, At 16⏿ minutes, it balances to a roughly ok point. After a short burst to a maximum of 600rpm (it either aborts the burst before it reaches 600 or stops spinning just as it reached 600). If the spin was not aborted, it stays in distribution mode, senses the load again and the decides. If rebalancing is necessary, it slows down completly and starts distribution. Once it started spinning, it does a short stop at 600rpm to check for balance again. It either aborts again and repeats or goes on with spinning. If it decides it is well balanced, the time advances to 14 minutes and it speeds up to 1000rpm. If the spin is aborted from this point on, the washer stores a fault code. That never happend to us, though. At 12, it goes up to 1200rpm. At 11 or 10, it goes to max speed (either 1400 or 1600 rpm). This is kept for 150 seconds usually. Sometimes it might be 120, sometimes 180. Again, depending on load size. At 7 minutes, it slows down, fluffs and goes to unlock.
The Panasonic had a nice, verry clear and verry blockish spin sequence. Every non-delicate cycle (which means any cycle except Outdoor, Delicate and Wool) followed the same basic spin design.
It was based on the long Cottons spin (only used when a Cotton cycle was selected). Spins were akways the same, idependent of load size. At 21 minutes, draining started. Once drained, it advanced to 20 minutes and distributed for the first time. This extended to 18 minutes, where it stopped countdown. If a balance liad was achieved (sensing wasn't picky at that point), it did a first 2 minute 400rpm burst. Tha lasted throughout minutes 16+17. At minute 15, that restarted again. 3 minutes for balancing, 2 minutes 400rpm spin. At 10 minutes left, the ultra-sensitive sensing began. It stayed at 10 minutes rebalancing until almost perfect balance was achieved. The, it started speeding up with a equally stepped profil, reachin full speed at the 5 minute mark. At minute 2, it started slowing down. Minute 1 was for 4 fluffing tumbles, and then it unlocked the door.
If one selected a non-Cotton cycle , it basicly just cut of the first 2 spin bursts.
On Speed mode, it canceled the first 2 bursts, the fluffing and speeded up the speeding up process, which placed the magic balance mark at 7 minutes with an total estimate of 10 minutes.
On Eco mode on Cottons, the balancing was simmilar to Speed, the ramp up was equal to Cottons without option, but it doubled the time at max speed. As one could select options on seperate spins as well, that was my preffered option for respinning loads. Total time 14 minutes, magic time 13 minutes.
The Easy Iron option used the same spin sequence on any cycle one could set it. It would do 6 (I think) burst over 19 minutes, with the first half being low speed and the second half high speed (no higher then 800rpm). Rebalancing the load each time, it could not only take abit, but clothes came out questionable dry for an easy iron option.
The three extra cycles behaved in 2 ways: Delicates and wool simply took the last Cotton spin intervall and cut out any part of the ramp above their maximum speed. That left Delicates with 8 or 6 minutes with 800rpm max and woolens with 5 minutes at 500 max.
Outdoor used a 31 minute, non-adjustable spin. It maxed out at 800 and used several rebalances, spin patterns and timeshifts to remove water from watertight items. It was pretty over-engenered and didn't do so well either.
michael
Well-known member
Spinning
I remember when the Hoover electronic 800 deluxe came out in about 77/78.
The ad went something like this... a lady would say Buying a new automatic? ask about the spin speed..the new hoover electronic deluxe spins at 800 rpm to get your washing drier. with that the lady would twirl her finger and it would wiz round!
My Miele 5964 spins at 1200 rpm on the minimum iron programme and I have to say, all the washing comes out really dry! Out of all the machines I have owned, this is the only one that doesn't require an extra spin on this programme and no creases either!
I remember when the Hoover electronic 800 deluxe came out in about 77/78.
The ad went something like this... a lady would say Buying a new automatic? ask about the spin speed..the new hoover electronic deluxe spins at 800 rpm to get your washing drier. with that the lady would twirl her finger and it would wiz round!
My Miele 5964 spins at 1200 rpm on the minimum iron programme and I have to say, all the washing comes out really dry! Out of all the machines I have owned, this is the only one that doesn't require an extra spin on this programme and no creases either!
