I have a Sony linear tracking quartz lock direct drive PS FL7 II. It is front loading with a motor that drives the turntable out for loading, opening the smoked Lucite door in the process, and then back in for playing. I needed the design for the Hundevad entertainment cabinet I have. I also have a Beogram 4002.
stereo turntables in DD use.
- Thread starter cfz2882
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here's mine
A Trio 2055 bought new in 1977 and still in good working order today, although truth to tell it has not had that much use over the last 15 years or so. It was the first piece of "proper" Hi-fi I ever bought. Trio was the UK brand name of the Japanese Kenwood company - they could not use that name here because of the UK Kenwood food mixer company.
It base is completely solid, made of some sort of material supposedly to resemble marble. It has not had any maintenance whatsoever apart from a new belt a couple of years ago. Still works well apart from the arm auto return which has not worked for many years now. It is fitted with a Rega cartridge which I have had since around 1980.
Sorry the picture is not very good quality, it sits in a small alcove and I do not have the time now to disconnect it all and take a better photo
Al
A Trio 2055 bought new in 1977 and still in good working order today, although truth to tell it has not had that much use over the last 15 years or so. It was the first piece of "proper" Hi-fi I ever bought. Trio was the UK brand name of the Japanese Kenwood company - they could not use that name here because of the UK Kenwood food mixer company.
It base is completely solid, made of some sort of material supposedly to resemble marble. It has not had any maintenance whatsoever apart from a new belt a couple of years ago. Still works well apart from the arm auto return which has not worked for many years now. It is fitted with a Rega cartridge which I have had since around 1980.
Sorry the picture is not very good quality, it sits in a small alcove and I do not have the time now to disconnect it all and take a better photo
Al
a short story...in 1987, living with a buddy, to impress his girlfriend, and show his love, gave her MY much loved MCS Component system(from JCPenney).....got home after work one night and thought we were robbed!......after hearing his reasons, and promising to buy me a new system......I dragged his ASS to "BEST"....and with a rented u-haul......spent a little over $4000.00 for this great PIONEER system...all on his credit card....I calmed down by the time I got home!!!
I LOVE fully automatic, remote controlled turntables!......TV not shown...the 4 speakers are huge, and just begun to deteriorate....have to consider replacing the WOOFers...
I LOVE fully automatic, remote controlled turntables!......TV not shown...the 4 speakers are huge, and just begun to deteriorate....have to consider replacing the WOOFers...
heres a fun unit/endtable....with 8track player.....massive built in speakers...and external ports.....paid 20.00 for it at a ReStore....I don't think it has ever been used much
And another fun player....with built in microphone/PA system......got this at an estate sale...still in the box.....has a plastic cover, and another hard plastic case to resemble luggage.....I think I paid like 5.00 for it...
whirlcool
Well-known member
You know if the surrounds on your woofers is cracking, deteriorating you can have them refoamed. The cost is around $30. per speaker. Much cheaper than a speaker replacement and you still have the original for the same sound.
Also, if you have any speakers that are 30 years old, you may want to replace the capacitors inside the crossover. I did that on my pair of AR3's (1968 build) and they literally sound like new again. The cost was about $80.00 for both speakers.
I used Solen caps.
Here is my Dual 701:
Also, if you have any speakers that are 30 years old, you may want to replace the capacitors inside the crossover. I did that on my pair of AR3's (1968 build) and they literally sound like new again. The cost was about $80.00 for both speakers.
I used Solen caps.
Here is my Dual 701:
cfz2882
Well-known member
empire 598 mk3
that is a nice looking dual!-what era is it,looks only a little newer than my 1229
from 1972.
I looked under my empire and it is model 598 mk3. The belt is a little stretched,
so takes a few secs for the heavy platter to get to speed.One quirk is the outside
rotor motor has the spokes of the rotor end formed into fan blades and "fan noise"
can be heard during quiet moments.As far as i can tell,the motor is a straight
split capacitor induction motor with non magnetic rotor but i have not had it
apart so it could be partly synchronus like the motor in my dual
that is a nice looking dual!-what era is it,looks only a little newer than my 1229
from 1972.
I looked under my empire and it is model 598 mk3. The belt is a little stretched,
so takes a few secs for the heavy platter to get to speed.One quirk is the outside
rotor motor has the spokes of the rotor end formed into fan blades and "fan noise"
can be heard during quiet moments.As far as i can tell,the motor is a straight
split capacitor induction motor with non magnetic rotor but i have not had it
apart so it could be partly synchronus like the motor in my dual
Outer rotor motors-Usually these are a PM synchronous-I have encountered them in TT's Capstan motors for RR tape decks and capstan motors in tape cart machines.Have replaced bearings in these-Just undo a C-Clip on the bottom of the motor-rotor and stator came apart-then replacing the bearings is a 10 min job.A German company Pabst makes these motors.And another place I see them-usually as cap start-run fan and blower motors.They are very quiet and smooth running-no vibration.the Pabst fan motors are induction.Speed accuracy not important for fan and blowers.Yogitunes-by all means get the speakers in your Pioneer Hi-fi system redone-would be more than worth it-that system is a REAL treasure.I can't tell for sure-is the "Drum" Hi-Fi system a Magnavox?WhirlCool-that Dual 701 is a really beautiful TT.
philr
Well-known member
The ones I use the most are old Perpetuum-Ebner "PE 66" changers with their original ceramic cartridge in my 1961 and 1963 Saba consoles. I also have a Dual 1228 that I bought new when I was a kid. It was connected to my Pioneer SX-800 tube receiver but I haven't used it since the Pioneer fried some of it's internal parts a few years ago!
PE Turntables! I used to have a component one-the TT alone on a base-not installed in a Hi-fi console.Grundig Hi-fi consoles had PE TT's.They are very nice.How well do the orig 1961 ceramic cartridges still sound-usually old cartridges start sounding bad-the ceramic or crystal elements are rotting along with the stylus cantilever supports.If the cartridges still work OK-then not a worry.Some of the cartridges that old I have encountered had to be replaced.also rotted cantilever supports can cause record damage.They are too stiff to allow the stylus to track properly.If they are bad-you can hear it-the high frequencies sound muffled and distorted.And the cartridge may "skip" on loud passages.
whirlcool
Well-known member
The Dual 701 was sold from 1972-1976. It was Dual's first direct drive turntable.
It doesn't have any gears in it. It uses something called "Hall Effect" coils to move the turntable and the speed is monitored by a speed control board. These turntables have a lot of torque to them. Back when the 701 came out, Stereo Review magazine found them to be the quietest turntable they ever tested. They were sold for about $400.00 new and go for about the same today. The strobe light, like the 1229 & 1229Q is seen in that little circular window on the front left side of the turntable. The actual strobe marks are on the bottom of the platter. A mirror reflects the strobe markings up through the little window.
One interesting thing in the 701 is that there are adjustment pots on the hall effect coils on a 701. But they should NEVER be adjusted! The reason being is that if you don't get it right, you never will. These were adjusted in the factory in Germany and nobody today knows/remembers how they were adjusted. It was a trade secret. So if you mess them up, you'll have a nice parts unit on your hands.
It's funny you should mention P+E. They were a competitor of Dual's for many years. In 1971 Dual purchased P+E. A lot of P+E turntables were used in OEM applications. In fact, in the mid 70's there were a lot of similarities between the Dual and P+E turnables.
It doesn't have any gears in it. It uses something called "Hall Effect" coils to move the turntable and the speed is monitored by a speed control board. These turntables have a lot of torque to them. Back when the 701 came out, Stereo Review magazine found them to be the quietest turntable they ever tested. They were sold for about $400.00 new and go for about the same today. The strobe light, like the 1229 & 1229Q is seen in that little circular window on the front left side of the turntable. The actual strobe marks are on the bottom of the platter. A mirror reflects the strobe markings up through the little window.
One interesting thing in the 701 is that there are adjustment pots on the hall effect coils on a 701. But they should NEVER be adjusted! The reason being is that if you don't get it right, you never will. These were adjusted in the factory in Germany and nobody today knows/remembers how they were adjusted. It was a trade secret. So if you mess them up, you'll have a nice parts unit on your hands.
It's funny you should mention P+E. They were a competitor of Dual's for many years. In 1971 Dual purchased P+E. A lot of P+E turntables were used in OEM applications. In fact, in the mid 70's there were a lot of similarities between the Dual and P+E turnables.
Yes,in other peices of equipment--factory adjustments-never fiddle about with them.Besides not making the device work-could damage the device.I forgot about the Dual DD TT's until now.Usually the factory puts the varnish--"nail polish" on these controls to alleviate fiddling by curious folks.
whirlcool
Well-known member
I researched the adjustments down the best I could. I got a letter from a guy in Germany who said he knew someone that worked at Dual during that time and the best he could say is that they used "special" equipment to measure the setup process. That's the closest I could come to figuring out how it was done.
I have spoken with the best in the Dual repair industry. Not a one knows how to adjust the hall effect coils back to their specification.
Also a cracked solder joint in the speed control near a transistor can speed the platter up to 2,000 rpms! I have heard of this problem 4 times in the 14 years I have been involved with Dual audio equipment. It's a real rare problem. Just tapping the joints with a dental pick will determine which joint it is that needs resoldering. And should one ever decide to rebuild the speed control board, all components are still available.
I have spoken with the best in the Dual repair industry. Not a one knows how to adjust the hall effect coils back to their specification.
Also a cracked solder joint in the speed control near a transistor can speed the platter up to 2,000 rpms! I have heard of this problem 4 times in the 14 years I have been involved with Dual audio equipment. It's a real rare problem. Just tapping the joints with a dental pick will determine which joint it is that needs resoldering. And should one ever decide to rebuild the speed control board, all components are still available.
Technics DD TT's at radio stations--sometimes DJ's will spill Coke or Coffee into them-the TT does some weird things-the platter Jitters and oscillates instead of rotating-The TT does its own "scratching" without manual assistence!To fix these "coketables" took the machine apart down to its chassis to where the motor circuit boards are exposed-wash them down liberally--then let the unit dry for several days-the one stations building boiler room helpted out here.Then reassemble the TT-then works OK.Again didn't adjust any of the pots on the motor boards.Since the Technics platter contains the motor rotor-its a VERY strong PM magnet-keep tools,filings and such away.Taping a plastic bag to it when the platter is off the TT base helps-and DON'T try to run the Technics TT with the platter removed-can burn out the stators in the motor(Base)
2,000 RPM Dual TT-If some Lapidary needs a faceting lap(tool for cutting faceted clear stones)thats for them!Just fasten the diamond lapping wheel to the platter-and attach the faceter and stone!Just a joke-but would be strange!
jasonl
New member
Magnavox end-table
This is my current quest, to find an end table unit. That's a later model but it still has a Collaro turntable and EV cartridge. Awesome sound!
This is my current quest, to find an end table unit. That's a later model but it still has a Collaro turntable and EV cartridge. Awesome sound!
Magnavox drum table
I bought mine two years ago for $35 at our Mustard Seed, it was pretty nice, but someone had put some dents into the wicker trimmed speakers. Has a great sound, but I have to keep it covered from the girl cat at the moment. I want the companion speaker, I found one years before I got this one! The changer is a two speed Automatic, which is the step down from the Micromatic in Yogi's set. Mine is a first or second year model, the first ones had plastic push button changers that failed rapidly, and were retrofitted quickly with the Automatic. Then during the successive years, they used the Micromatic and different and better receivers. The later ones are supposed to be sensational. I found one that looked like Yogi's, I swear it weighed twice what mine does. And the cabinets are plastic, or mostly so. They don't look the least bit cheap either.
I bought mine two years ago for $35 at our Mustard Seed, it was pretty nice, but someone had put some dents into the wicker trimmed speakers. Has a great sound, but I have to keep it covered from the girl cat at the moment. I want the companion speaker, I found one years before I got this one! The changer is a two speed Automatic, which is the step down from the Micromatic in Yogi's set. Mine is a first or second year model, the first ones had plastic push button changers that failed rapidly, and were retrofitted quickly with the Automatic. Then during the successive years, they used the Micromatic and different and better receivers. The later ones are supposed to be sensational. I found one that looked like Yogi's, I swear it weighed twice what mine does. And the cabinets are plastic, or mostly so. They don't look the least bit cheap either.
Here's that nasty plastic abomination for a changer:
My turntable....
....is a Technics SL-DD33 with Audio Technica AT250 cartridge.
It plays 33 and 45 rpm records and has automatic startup and shutdown.
I've used it to transfer all my vinyl to iTunes (some 500+ albums and 45's).
(This was done by burning a CD-RW on my Pioneer PDR-509 and then taking that CD, running it through "Click Repair" and finally importing to iTunes.
My first "real" turntable was a Garrard SL-95B which I bought while in high school.
My second turntable was a Garrard DD-75.
Also had a Dual changer and then a Pioneer Direct drive after those.
Here is a picture of the Garrard SL-95B.
....is a Technics SL-DD33 with Audio Technica AT250 cartridge.
It plays 33 and 45 rpm records and has automatic startup and shutdown.
I've used it to transfer all my vinyl to iTunes (some 500+ albums and 45's).
(This was done by burning a CD-RW on my Pioneer PDR-509 and then taking that CD, running it through "Click Repair" and finally importing to iTunes.
My first "real" turntable was a Garrard SL-95B which I bought while in high school.
My second turntable was a Garrard DD-75.
Also had a Dual changer and then a Pioneer Direct drive after those.
Here is a picture of the Garrard SL-95B.
Here's the Garrard DD-75
Garrard DD-75
Garrard DD-75
