k1rod
New member
Hi All, I'm still looking for a nice Maytag A806 if anyone knows of one available in the Southwest or West... Thanks.
Still looking for a nice Maytag A806
- Thread starter k1rod
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k1rod
New member
Thank you DigAPony. I have sent him an email and we'll see what happens. In the mean time, I am still oprn to any insights about where I can find one of these machines. Thanks.
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
Redcarpet signal seen...
I sent you an email but I have a matched harvest 806 set with electric dryer who might be both first gen machines and intact. I might also have a white one or two. Plus the odd 142 or 700-702. Crazy cat lady of the washer world indeed...
I don't want a ton for any of them. I just want them to end up in a good home. Ask anyone who has passed my background check how I watch out for my orphans... Lol...
RCD
I sent you an email but I have a matched harvest 806 set with electric dryer who might be both first gen machines and intact. I might also have a white one or two. Plus the odd 142 or 700-702. Crazy cat lady of the washer world indeed...
I don't want a ton for any of them. I just want them to end up in a good home. Ask anyone who has passed my background check how I watch out for my orphans... Lol...
RCD
Drew is as honest as a bad day is long. If you want an 806, you couldn't find a better person to deal with, I'd jump on any offer he extends.
k1rod
New member
Newbie restoration help
Hi Drew, I emailed you back but perhaps my message went into the bit bucket... In the meantime Revvinkevin offered me a couple of 806's machines and he was heading my way to boot.
So I have two A806's now and will work to build one "fully restored" machine. I started digging into them yesterday and realize there is so much I don't know. I tried to find a service manual for them but came up empty. If anybody can help with any of the following, the insight will be much appreciated.
1) There are like five different part numbers for timers on these. (both of mine have permanent press and I don't know what suds saver is). Can I use any of the listed part numbers that has the correct cycle configuration? Can a new OEM timer for this still be purchased? Are there any companies that rebuild timers such that they are as good as new?
2) What is the part number for the fluorescent bulb and starter?
3) When I removed the front panel, mounted on the front right was a vertical mounted tube of some sort, a couple of inches in diameter and about 2 feet in length. What is that?
4) The inner tubs have a bit of rust around the holes in the bottom of the tub. What is the best way to repair that?
5) I am thinking about having the whole cabinet sand blasted and powder coated. Any recommendations on whether this is a good idea or not?
6) I think I am going to take the transmission apart and at a minimum, clean it all out with brake cleaner and refill it with new oil. Will I need a new gasket to close it back up?
7) The push button cycle switch is a little stiff. Is there any way to open these up to clean and lubricate them?
I will post photos as the restoration progresses if anybody is interested in seeing how it goes.
Hi Drew, I emailed you back but perhaps my message went into the bit bucket... In the meantime Revvinkevin offered me a couple of 806's machines and he was heading my way to boot.
So I have two A806's now and will work to build one "fully restored" machine. I started digging into them yesterday and realize there is so much I don't know. I tried to find a service manual for them but came up empty. If anybody can help with any of the following, the insight will be much appreciated.
1) There are like five different part numbers for timers on these. (both of mine have permanent press and I don't know what suds saver is). Can I use any of the listed part numbers that has the correct cycle configuration? Can a new OEM timer for this still be purchased? Are there any companies that rebuild timers such that they are as good as new?
2) What is the part number for the fluorescent bulb and starter?
3) When I removed the front panel, mounted on the front right was a vertical mounted tube of some sort, a couple of inches in diameter and about 2 feet in length. What is that?
4) The inner tubs have a bit of rust around the holes in the bottom of the tub. What is the best way to repair that?
5) I am thinking about having the whole cabinet sand blasted and powder coated. Any recommendations on whether this is a good idea or not?
6) I think I am going to take the transmission apart and at a minimum, clean it all out with brake cleaner and refill it with new oil. Will I need a new gasket to close it back up?
7) The push button cycle switch is a little stiff. Is there any way to open these up to clean and lubricate them?
I will post photos as the restoration progresses if anybody is interested in seeing how it goes.
Rod,
Robert has posted a copy of the 1962 Helical Drive Service Manual (red cover) in AE.org. Download a copy and read through the whole manual. About 90 percent of what is in there relates to your machine. The only major differences are the the lid switch assembly and a few other small things.
You can get a new panel fluorescent bulb at your local hardware store. Take the old one with you and match it up to a new one. I believe it is 18 inches in length. It also wouldn't hurt to pick up a new fluorescent starter as well - type FS-2.
If you do decide to tear the machine apart to pull the transmission, there are several threads that others have posted here on AW that document the process with photos. Yes, you'll need to get a new gasket, for the case, and a new lower housing seal as well.
The tube you saw on above the pump is part of the timed bleach injector system. This is well documented in the previously mentioned Helical Service Manual.
I'm sure others will chime in as well. Good luck on your adventure!
Ben
Robert has posted a copy of the 1962 Helical Drive Service Manual (red cover) in AE.org. Download a copy and read through the whole manual. About 90 percent of what is in there relates to your machine. The only major differences are the the lid switch assembly and a few other small things.
You can get a new panel fluorescent bulb at your local hardware store. Take the old one with you and match it up to a new one. I believe it is 18 inches in length. It also wouldn't hurt to pick up a new fluorescent starter as well - type FS-2.
If you do decide to tear the machine apart to pull the transmission, there are several threads that others have posted here on AW that document the process with photos. Yes, you'll need to get a new gasket, for the case, and a new lower housing seal as well.
The tube you saw on above the pump is part of the timed bleach injector system. This is well documented in the previously mentioned Helical Service Manual.
I'm sure others will chime in as well. Good luck on your adventure!
Ben
Maytag Helical Drive Automatic Washer Service Manual
Maytag Helical Drive Automatic Washer Service Manual
www.automatice.org
Well, where to begin...
1. You want timer Number 2-4499. There were actually three different timers made by two different manufacturers used during the production years of the machines you have. They were originally known as 2-4499-1 (Mallory design 1), 2-4499-2 (Kingston) & 2-4499-3 (Mallory design 2). I'll post pictures below.
2. Go to Home Depot, Lowe's or another hardware store and get an 18" 15 watt fluorescent bulb (can be either a T8 1" around or a T12 1.5" inches around) and a new 14-20 watt preheat fluorescent starter. Total cost will be between $5-10.
3. That's the time-delay bleach dispenser.
4. I would leave that rust be, myself. Others may have better suggestions.
5. Again, you could have that done. How bad is the cabinet and how essential is it that it be near-perfect? Remember that the top piece and lid are porcelain enamel.
6. Transmission work on these, while not all that difficult in and of itself, is often not necessary until there is a problem. That said, go and read this thread to see what is all involved: http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?38714
7. I assume you are talking about the speed selector switch as opposed to the water temp switch? There is no way to open those switches up. You could try spraying some electrical contact cleaner in and see what happens. Those switches are not hard to find NOS (new old stock). Part number is 2-4498.
1. You want timer Number 2-4499. There were actually three different timers made by two different manufacturers used during the production years of the machines you have. They were originally known as 2-4499-1 (Mallory design 1), 2-4499-2 (Kingston) & 2-4499-3 (Mallory design 2). I'll post pictures below.
2. Go to Home Depot, Lowe's or another hardware store and get an 18" 15 watt fluorescent bulb (can be either a T8 1" around or a T12 1.5" inches around) and a new 14-20 watt preheat fluorescent starter. Total cost will be between $5-10.
3. That's the time-delay bleach dispenser.
4. I would leave that rust be, myself. Others may have better suggestions.
5. Again, you could have that done. How bad is the cabinet and how essential is it that it be near-perfect? Remember that the top piece and lid are porcelain enamel.
6. Transmission work on these, while not all that difficult in and of itself, is often not necessary until there is a problem. That said, go and read this thread to see what is all involved: http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?38714
7. I assume you are talking about the speed selector switch as opposed to the water temp switch? There is no way to open those switches up. You could try spraying some electrical contact cleaner in and see what happens. Those switches are not hard to find NOS (new old stock). Part number is 2-4498.
Rod, you've got mail.
I just sent two large files to the email address you have listed here.
If they don't come through let me know.
I just sent two large files to the email address you have listed here.
If they don't come through let me know.
k1rod
New member
Thanks a heap Mark and Ben! I really appreciate the files, links and your answers to my questions. Extremely helpful! I just took the trip to Home Depot to pick up the bulb and FS-2 starter (these starters don't look like the used to and I hope the innards aren't as cheesy as the flimsy plastic case is on the outside.) This is going to be a fun project for me and my 14 year old daughter.
k1rod
New member
Mark, does it matter if the timer is a -1, -2 or -3? Is any one better than the other? And the switches I was referring to are the speed selector switch and the water temperature switch. I've started trolling Ebay to find them. They do have metal tabs that bend over the edge of the plastic back. Has anybody ever tried to pry up those metal tabs to see if the plastic back would come off? I suspect they would break but even then it might be possible to epoxy the switch back together.
