stuck agitator puller- made cheap!

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I drilled the top center of the shaft with a small bit, then a 5/16" or 3/8" bit so the center shaft of the puller wouldn't wander around when tightening it. I thought the agitator was going to slide off the the smaller inner most splines of the shaft but it turned out to be the bigger spline. The pictures show the smaller and bigger splines. The agitator pulled off fairly easily with the steering wheel puller configuration, and drilling the vanes but it probably would have worked with longer chains, and 'L' brackets hooked under the bottom of the agitator.
 
@swestoyz

Yes that's the machine in the pictures. So it is a Hotpoint rim flow, GE based washer? Is there a manual for that machine in the manuals link you gave me? I haven't downloaded the manual yet.
 
Yes! This manual link below covers the technical service info for the ‘73-‘77 GE models, which should cover most of your Hotpoint. Thankfully there are a lot of parts available for these washers out in the wild, eBay, etc.

Ben

 
What is the main purpose of the wool felt packing up the bottom of the agitator? Is remainsd mostly intact, I think, after pulling the agitator of the splines.

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...how the heck does that plastic cover around the bottom of the shaft in the inner tub come off; is it a simple spray lube and pry job?

I have attempted a picture to show the condition of the outside of the inner tub. There is rust around the many holes that are punched through the tub during manufacture. Although it doesn't appear that the rust is inside the basket, I suspect that it might be possible for the clothes to be pressed through the holes far enough during the spin cycle, to pick up a bit of the rust? What do you think; has the inner tub had the biscuit?

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Yes I'm very surprised to see this is a GE made washer. That is why I asked to see a picture of this agitator. When I saw the name McClary and from 1974 I had assumed it was a model similar to this image below. I got this advertisement around 1974 but maybe this model in the ad is from 1973 so maybe there was a big change in '74 just as there was with US made Hotpoint washers?

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I can't figure out how the get the plastic 'tub boot' to pull up and off from the bottom of the shaft (so I can unbolt the inner tub/basket). I am going to buy/download the GE Manual. Maybe it will show something that will make it clearer.

There was a ton of lint built up under the agitator, shown in pictures below. There were 3 screws holding a cover on; it was jamb packed in there.

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There is corrosion on the hub so I suppoae that is what is making the hub boot tight. There appears to be a lock tab on the boot but that doesn't appear to be what's holding it tight. I am going to try the hot water trick; fill the tub with enough hot water to cover the hub boot, then drain it and hope it softens the bond between the plastic and the hub. Exercise in patience.
 
I pulled the hub boot using the same steering wheel puller but with longer chains. I jammed a screw driver in the hub to trip the tab lock, while pulling the hub off. Incredible amount of scrud under there (scrud definition: soap, rust, lint, thread, dirt, grease, ruff:) My finger is pointing out the tab lock in the pictures.
I cleaned it up. The 3 12pt bolts that hold the tub are extremely corroded. I am going to have to bring in a compressor and an impact air wrench. I have sprayed them up with Deep Creep to soak overnight. If those bolts won't come out with anything less than drilling and easy outs, or a torch, this old girl may be destined for the scrap pile:(

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Looks Like Success!

Well, it looks like a success. I have more details and pictures to post when I get a bit of time... also a few more questions regarding alignment, and the water valve.
 
More clean up and rust treatment pictures

I am just posting all of the pictures in groups here. It is too much work to get them all perfectly chronological. I wish I could put all the captions with the corresponding pictures but I have to upgrade my account to be able to edit.

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Finished basket interior

Look closely and you can see the black POR15 around the inside of the basket holes. I masked the holes off, on the inside of the basket before treating the outside, so the POR15 wouldn't drip all over the interior.

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There was rust present in a lot of places between the basket and the tub. It cleaned up well with a wire wheel, brush, sand paper, scrapers, POR15 Cleaner Degreaser, and POR15 Metal Prep/Etcher. I put the basket in a kiddie pool on the lawn, but had to do the outer tub prep in place in the house, taping over the drain holes to contain the liquids until the process was finished. It was a lot of work but with patience there was no turning back now.

I bought a small POR15 rust treatment kit (pictured) for around $45 CAD; Canadian Tire carries some POR15 products too, for a little cheaper. I needed a little more POR15 paint than what came in the kit, so I bought a '6 Pack' of 4oz cans (pictured). It's best to open just one small can at a time as needed because POR15 doesn't keep that well after opening.

I cleaned and etched the entire surface of the tubs. I put one coat of POR15 on the areas that had been rusting, then went back and put another coat over everything. The underside of the top of the washer received POR15, and anywhere else where rust had begun to take hold.
I figured POR15 was the best suited rust treatment system to use under these circumstances. It uses moisture to cure; doesn't require a topcoat unless it is subject to direct UV light of the sun. Get as much of the rust off as you can; POR stands for Paint Over Rust so stable rust is ok. POR15 has pretty strong fumes. It is as tough as nails.

A pinhole did appear while scraping rust in the bottom of the outer tub. I used JB Weld to fill it before the POR15 was applied.

I replaced the original corroded basket mounting bolts with stainless steel bolts and washers (HomeDepot). The lock tab on the plastic hub cover was sprung and no longer hooking on; I used a hairdrier to soften it while pulling it back into shape.

I used a 4lb hammer to drive a solid rubber mallet down, to get the agitator fully seated; a little Vaseline helped on the splines.

I got the motor drive pulley to align better with the pump pulley (where that sectional rubber flex coupling is) by adding a couple of steel washers to one of the three mounting points (I think there are before and after pictures).
The hot water is slow filling into the tub. I need to see if there is a clogged screen in the fill valve, or if it's the house plumbing.

That's all I can think of.
The washer works like a dang! I am looking forward to it's 60th birthday!
 
Afterthoughts:
The POR15 prep is water based so after the outer tub rinse, drain, and sponge I placed a small heater and fan in over night to dry it up real good in there before applying the POR15.
After the second coat of POR15 in the outer tub I placed a fan in there to circulate the air to help with the curing.
 
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